Official 330 Sundancer Thread

Wide open throttle just under 4000. Reading speed from depth finder/transducer, I'll recheck with GPS. Thanks all for the input!
 
Hawaiiwego said:
Wide open throttle just under 4000. Reading speed from depth finder/transducer, I'll recheck with GPS. Thanks all for the input!
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Which motors do you have? You should be getting over 4200... I think you have a prop issue or a dirty bottom.
 
Larry is probably correct you might have a dirty bottom, or possibly the props are a little "off" that could hurt your top end rpms. Also make sure your trim tabs are pulled up all the way when you push to WOT. I've noticed my boat can be slowed down drastically when I push over 3400rpm and the tabs are down. As soon as I lift the tabs up I pick up speed at higher rpms.

I also have an issue with WOT being 4100 and 4000 on each engine. I had my props tuned and balanced, they're not the 17x17's that came stock with the boat. I have some kind of variable pitch prop that was popular back in the late 90's, but has since been proven not the best set up. If you could get 4000-4100 I'd say you're fine. 4200-4400 is the recommended range, but for a 100 rpm I'm not going to drop $2k+ on new props.

Also at 4000-4100 WOT I'm at about 30 knots too, maybe 32 kts...

Good luck!
 
There are two long Philips head screw right on the front of that carpet box. Just unscrew them and pull the box towards you ,port side . The bracket you see at the end just guides the box into the right place.
 
Hey guys - Doing a sanity check on some local canvas shops. Can you let me know what you paid for front and rear bimin tops? Just the two pieces that zip to the arch. Does the quote below look high, low, average?


Front bimini shade made with sunbrella seamark, no frame and no hookup for curtains needed at this time----$695.00
Rear bimini shade made with sunbrella seamark, no frame and no hookup for curtains needed at this time----$785.00
 
ov10mech said:
Hey guys - Doing a sanity check on some local canvas shops. Can you let me know what you paid for front and rear bimin tops? Just the two pieces that zip to the arch. Does the quote below look high, low, average?


Front bimini shade made with sunbrella seamark, no frame and no hookup for curtains needed at this time----$695.00
Rear bimini shade made with sunbrella seamark, no frame and no hookup for curtains needed at this time----$785.00
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Sounds about right for a canvas shop, but try Great Lakes Boat Tops, they made your originals for Sea Ray and it will be allot cheaper. Two years ago I replaced ALL my canvas including hatch covers and all for just about $1700 from Great Lakes.
 
Thanks for the tip! I just emailed them. Did that price include hardware or did you re-use your same poles, etc?
 
Used Great Lakes Boat top here too. If you watch they run specials with 15% off!
You will need to use your current hardware as well. Also, I had issues because GLBT could not find my HID and told me the no longer provided canvas for my boat (My 33 was built in Palm Coat, may have been the issue). I went around and used the HID off my buddy’s 33 dancer and had no issues!!
 
Great Lakes said they cannot do my canvas. This was their response.. :smt009 Just my luck.

Unfortunately, that boat was manufactured in a facility that made alterations to their patterns that we were not aware of, therefore we no longer have the pattern to fit that boat. You will need to contact a custom canvas shop in your area.

Thank you.
Customer Service



rumrunner said:
Used Great Lakes Boat top here too. If you watch they run specials with 15% off!
You will need to use your current hardware as well. Also, I had issues because GLBT could not find my HID and told me the no longer provided canvas for my boat (My 33 was built in Palm Coat, may have been the issue). I went around and used the HID off my buddy’s 33 dancer and had no issues!!
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Little more information: my boat is a 1996 Dancer, I used the HID off a 1998 and had no issues. I was quite impressed with the fit! I have some HID’s if you are interested.
 
Hit something on lake st. clair near 9mile. Vibration in starboard over 1500 rpm. Any repair recommendations near GPP?
 
Hawaiiwego,

You may want to try a more local source for recommendations on a repair, do a search on Lake St Clair.net, http://www.lakestclair.net/

I used to work for Sommers Marine in Belle Mear Harbor and there work is top notch. Sound like you will need to be pulled out, at a minimum props and shafts removed and reconditioned. You might want do dive under the boat to see just how bad. There is a underwater exhaust port that is designed to break away at impact as well. The exhaust port may take some time to find and order, check FP marine, http://www.searay-parts.com/

Good luck!
 
Fun Day today. I lost all steering. Suddenly my manual steering felt like power steering. Only problem is that no rudders were turning. Upon inspection found ride guide yolk completely broken off the starboard side of the stringer. I searched everywhere for the broken piece and couldn't find it which leads me to believe previous owner had it rigged on there which i was able to do. Always though the steering didnt feel right. Was unable to locate part number. Let me know if anyone has replaced this. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1344208136.460010.jpg

UPDATE: Turns out marina didn't install a washer behind the hex nut that holds this on.
 
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Re: What is this part for?

Thanks for your help. Yes it is the forward bilge alarm/pump. Any ideas where the water might be comming from? The shower/ AC condensate sump box appear to be working correctly with no leaking into that compartment however the the bilge area to the rear of that has water.
 
Guys - can you let me know how many labor hours is reasonable to replace sea water pump impellers on two 7.4L Inboards? I was quoted 5 hours. It seemed high but then again, I never had to do it.
 
Maybe a little high…

I do the job myself and it usually takes a 2-3 hours. I do not have a “closed cooling” setup which would eat up some of the room which would result in some additional time and or disassembly.
 
that sounds about right, a little on the hgh side, but the starboard engine is a ***** to get to and you have to be part midget part contortionist to get to it
 
Thanks for the responses. After looking at the quote more closely it is quoted @ 5 hours but the rate is only 65/hr so it's not that bad. I like to learn and do maintenance myself but have a screwed up neck at moment pending surgery and this looks like a good job to farm out :)

You guys doing yours every 3 years or so?




larrytbull said:
that sounds about right, a little on the hgh side, but the starboard engine is a ***** to get to and you have to be part midget part contortionist to get to it
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DESTINY said:
There are two long Philips head screw right on the front of that carpet box. Just unscrew them and pull the box towards you ,port side . The bracket you see at the end just guides the box into the right place.
Click to expand...

What question are you answering, Destiny? It sounds interesting and I am always looking for simple answere to R&R issues.
 
SHAFT SEALS
dmartin155 said:
Having mine done next week. Having boat pulled and letting mechanic do it, not something I would even attempt. Can't even see them, never mind getting to them. He said he could do them in the slings and have it back in the water same afternoon. Then again I'm 6' 3" tall and he is about 5' 8".
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UPDATE!!!!! The mechanic tried to replace with tides seals with the new tides seals, and they wouldn't fit. The new style tides has a large plastic head ~5" across. Won't fit with V-drives, it hits the transmission. Found out while in the slings. Luckily we were able to find the PSS seals in stock at a WM dstributer store about 1/2 hr away. Picked them up and am now back in the water.

I have a 1997 Sundancer 330 with 7.4l MPIs with V-Drives. If you have the same you might want the PSS seals.
 
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