Official 330 Sundancer Thread

Re: Cockpit Storage latches no longer avail?!?!

ov10mech said:
Local Sea Ray Dealer said that these latches are no longer available. I have several that are cracked. Any idea where I can get aftermarket? Have a 1995 DA.

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I got mine from Flounder Pounder. Some stainless and some white. I also got them with locks. BTW: They are called Slam Latches.
 
The Latches might not be available from your Searay Dealer however they are still available at West Marine, SOUTHCO marine Latch (Brain damage money $62.99 for Stainless) I agree with tdschafer, check out Flounder Pounder (FP Marine). I replaced all mine last year with the Stainless Steel latches. Much Better Price too... $24.99
 
Fruition said:
Sorry for the delay in the response. Checked on boat last night and loss of vacuum pump not working seems to have corrected itself. May have been a slight clog that cleared ? Anyway I still cNnot find any indicator in head or on breaker panel. I also seem to not have any on/ off switch to de energize flush system. Here is my breaker.View attachment 25146View attachment 25146

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The buttons marked head system and macerater to the left of the rockers will energize/deenergize those circuits.
 
Has anyone put riser spacers on their 7.4s with carbs? My concern is that the risers will be too tall with the spacers. I'm not sure if there are different sized spacers available, but the ones i looked at were 3". I'm considering doing this as a preventive measure against water intrusion/back flow through the manifolds and exhaust. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
ippa2 said:
Has anyone put riser spacers on their 7.4s with carbs? My concern is that the risers will be too tall with the spacers. I'm not sure if there are different sized spacers available, but the ones i looked at were 3". I'm considering doing this as a preventive measure against water intrusion/back flow through the manifolds and exhaust. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks!
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my understanding is that the backflow issue is with the mpi engines not the carbs
 
Hi All, New Sea Ray owner here. 98' 330 7.4 mpi, home port Cleveland OH. I am a blow boater for the last 50 years, newly converted to a power boat owner... So go easy on me.

Reading the 330 forum has really helped me get the boat sorted but I have not found anything on an issue that I really need to solve:

Symptom is when running at speed, 2700 rpm +, the temp gauges go up to 160F then start bouncing between zero and 160. Then the Temp alarm starts going on and off every minute or so.

The engine is pumping lots of water. I aimed a Laser Thermometer on the Temp sensor and everything is running cool. Risers are cool too. So using the "spray and pray" method of repair, I replaced impellers, thermostats, temp sensors, gauges and nothing has improved. I am at a loss on how to trouble shoot this issue from here. Any help you guys can give me would be appreciate.

I hope I have posted this properly and I am not stepping on someones thread here.....
 
Welcome to the 330 club from another Lake Erie Boater.

My 7.4s run right at 170 degrees, maybe a couple degrees higher if I'm running her hard.

You have water flow and replaced the impellers as well as the sending unit. I'm thinking the problem is electrical in nature. Do both gauges exhibit the same issues? Do any of the other gauges bounce around? It could be a bad ground connection on the gauges, or the gauges themselves. If I had your issues, I'd get a chepo temperature gauge and temporarily wire it to directly to the sender on the motor with long wires and position the gauge where I could see it from the helm with the engine hatch closed.
 
Both Gauges are doing the same thing,,,, almost at the same time but not always. the strange part is if it were only electrical, I would think that they would start bouncing at lower rpm, but it only seems to happen at higher rpm or when the engines warm up.... if that is indicative of anything....?

thanks for the input Pete, what part of the lake are you on?
 
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At higher RPM there may be more vibration that will exacerbate a loose electrical connection.

Our boat is moored on Catawba Island and we do most of our boating around the Islands.
 
I had a fitting on my hot water plumbing let go this weekend. A little rescue tape saved the day, but I want to fix the fitting correctly. Does anyone know where I can find the plumbing fittings that Sea Ray used on these boats? I was thinking of trying a Lowes/Home Depot in the RV section. I looked at West Marine and they did not have them. Also does anyone know what size the diameter of the water pipes are? The red and blue ones.
 
ippa2 said:
I had a fitting on my hot water plumbing let go this weekend. A little rescue tape saved the day, but I want to fix the fitting correctly. Does anyone know where I can find the plumbing fittings that Sea Ray used on these boats? I was thinking of trying a Lowes/Home Depot in the RV section. I looked at West Marine and they did not have them. Also does anyone know what size the diameter of the water pipes are? The red and blue ones.
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I am believe they are 15mm (OD), check out Jamestown Distributors: http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...umbing^categoryName~category_root^category~56
 
I think 15MM is correct. A friend of mine recommended the Shark Bite fittings. I watched their video online and they look pretty user friendly. I need some fittings before the weekend though, so it looks like a trip to Lowes/Home Depot to find something to fix it in the short term... or just more rescue tape! By the way that stuff rocks. I'd highly recommend keeping a roll or two on board.
 
You mean one of these little puppies here? http://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-1707-seatech-female-stem-brass-15mm-stem-x-12-npt.aspx Or just the plastic fitting. The plastic fittings are 15mm. You have 15mm pex piping in your boat. The Attwood water heater has 1/2 NPT threaded connections. So that link up there will get your the fitting. Salty little things... Oh and let me know if you are putting one on the hot water heater on the cold side how it goes trying to get access. I removed the batteries and wedged in there. Its no fun... Have the cuts to prove it...
 
A plumber used shark bite fittings on copper supply pipes earlier this year when replacing my main water shut off in the house. Pretty slick product. (Hope it holds up... but the house definitely has higher pressure than the boat, so it should work!)
 
having an unusal problem. Last weekend went for a cruise. Cruising at 3300rpm for about 35 minutes when all of a sudden I started lossing power and rpms in my port motor all the way until it cut off. after about 5-10 minutes I can get it to restart only by applying full throttle as if it was flooded. a little back info on this engine...it's a factory reman put in last year with around 15 hour on it. has new mans and risers, new alt, new impeller and housing, new thermostat, new wires, plugs, cap and rotor. as well as flushed heat exchanger and transmission cooler. and all 5 fuel filters were replaced this month (the 5th being for the gen).
 
SkyKingg. You are just around the corner from me. I've had something similar but mine only did it at idle. My issue was that the boat cruised fine, then when I went down off cruise the engine would start to stutter and run rich then die. I could start it but only at full throttle but it would continue to run rough.They rebuilt the carb, changed the ignition harness, then finally it was the ignition sensor found under the rotor in the distributor. Rondds has a write up just recently as his went out too.Different for me was I was not losing power on cruise.
 
Alegria said:
SkyKingg. You are just around the corner from me. I've had something similar but mine only did it at idle. My issue was that the boat cruised fine, then when I went down off cruise the engine would start to stutter and run rich then die. I could start it but only at full throttle but it would continue to run rough.They rebuilt the carb, changed the ignition harness, then finally it was the ignition sensor found under the rotor in the distributor. Rondds has a write up just recently as his went out too.Different for me was I was not losing power on cruise.
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hey tom you don't happen to know the number of Rondds post do you?
 
Installed the gator bite fitting last night. Purchased at Lowes. Took about 5 mins! I'm definitely going to do a hot water heater bypass this fall with the gator bite parts. Cost will b about $75 but it will save me the trouble of blowing air through my hot water lines.

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