Official 330 Sundancer Thread

Any 330 owners out there know where I can get the rubber seal that sits on the underside of the sliding cover for the cabin entry door? It's a 1994 330 Sundancer. This seal appears to sit in a track on the folding door.
 
Boat Drinks said:
Hi Everyone,

I just moved up from a 240 Sundeck to a '97 330 DA with V-drive 454's and am looking forward to many hours of time on the boat, if the weather here in the midwest will cooperate. I've been boating for over 20 years, but always on single screw bowriders with no electrical power other than the batteries. So, needless to say the 330 is a bit intimidating. We're hoping to spend this weekend on the boat cleaning and familiarizing ourselves with all the systems and practicing docking. I've read some great posts here and was wondering if anyone has any advise that will help us cut down on the learning curve?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Just shout out " Don't worry folks, I'm insured!" when you are getting ready to dock. I've done it before and was amazed at how much "help" got on their bows!!:grin:
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, especially Todd, great line. We spent the weekend on the boat mainly cleaning, learning the systems, and dodging downpours. We had to fix a few small things, clogged screen in the fresh water pump and the AC pump would not prime. The weather finally cooperated Sunday afternoon and we got to take her out for a run. I had my doubts in everyone telling me how much easier twins are than a single, but once we got out and started playing around I could really see the improved handling. Getting back into the slip was still unnerving but went smoothly with help from our neighbors handling the lines.

I do have 1 question (at least for now). Does anyone know what the draft is on the V-drive model. I've seen one document that said 33" and another that said 25" up. I think the 25" up, may have been a misprint because the I/O model also had a 25" draft with the drives trimmed up. The reason I ask is we spend a lot of time rafted up at a sandbar and want to know how far out we need to be. Would anyone have a recommendation on how deep to be to be completely safe? The sand bar is an a cove that is almost always calm.

Thanks for the help
 
I use 3 ft. as my absolute minimum until I really know a area, and get a accurate calibration on the depth sounder!! That usually leaves a solid
1 ft. + under my props, which I checked and calibrated with a face mask when the H2O got over 65 deg's. :) If it's rough my minimum goes up quickly. I always have the first mate or someone watching the stearn or bow when heading into skinny water....
 
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Thanks for all the suggestions, especially Todd, great line. We spent the weekend on the boat mainly cleaning, learning the systems, and dodging downpours. We had to fix a few small things, clogged screen in the fresh water pump and the AC pump would not prime. The weather finally cooperated Sunday afternoon and we got to take her out for a run. I had my doubts in everyone telling me how much easier twins are than a single, but once we got out and started playing around I could really see the improved handling. Getting back into the slip was still unnerving but went smoothly with help from our neighbors handling the lines.

I do have 1 question (at least for now). Does anyone know what the draft is on the V-drive model. I've seen one document that said 33" and another that said 25" up. I think the 25" up, may have been a misprint because the I/O model also had a 25" draft with the drives trimmed up. The reason I ask is we spend a lot of time rafted up at a sandbar and want to know how far out we need to be. Would anyone have a recommendation on how deep to be to be completely safe? The sand bar is an a cove that is almost always calm.

Thanks for the help
 
Plane,

I was not getting any water flowing to the A/C so I started with the the strainer. It was only about 3/4 of the full, so I poured water in to fill it up and started the A/C. Still no water to the unit. I pulled the output hose from the pump and ran the A/C until water came out of the pump . The boat has been hauled in and out a bunch of times over the past few weeks and I'm guessing there was a vapor lock in the A/C pump.
 
Another newbie question. We only get to the boat on weekends, if the shore power is on but the AC Converter is turned off can we still run the the fridges and A/C? I was told to be careful leaving the AC Converter on for extended periods because of the risk of frying the batteries. But I would like to leave the fridges and A/C on.

Thanks,
 
Hi to everyone,

Looking for advice about the best location to mount an in-hull dual frequency transducer in a 96 330DA? The old single freq finder is being up dated and I am 50-50 on whether to fit a shoot-thru-hull transducer or fit a thru-hull one. Any advice based on past experiences?

Thanks in advance.
Dave.
 
Boat Drinks,

We never turn off the AC converter. It is a smart device and senses when the batteries are charged fully and stops charging them. When we go home for the week we turn off all DC circuits and most every AC circuit except the the AC Converter, Refrigerator, and Microwave.

We only leave the Microwave on so that we can tell if the Electric power was off during the week. If it was, we'll give everything a once over looking for potential problems.
 
Well, your AC converter, refrigerator and A/C are on separate breakers, so you you can leave your AC converter off and others on... But I wouldn't leave my AC converter off while away from the boat, the chargers are made to go into "float" mode to just maintain the batteries, just keep an eye periodically on the water levels.

BTW, I do the same thing as LTD.330 as far as leaving the microwave on to verify if power went out...
 
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As for transducer choose a thru hull if you are adding a ff that has downscan or structure scan otherwise a shoot thru hull is fine

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
 
Well there is my new learning for the day... turn the microwave on while away from the boat to see if the power goes out. Pretty good idea. Except it might get me all worked up if for some reason the marina has a shut down, then I'll think something is wrong with my electrical system... it might choose to be ignorantly bliss on this one. Will have to think it over...

To chime in on the other question, I leave my A/C converter on all summer long... 6 months of the year and a couple months when its on the hard and I'm winterizing things. I also leave the fridge on all summer (got to keep the beers cold!) and right now I have 2 of those west marine air dryers running so I leave my outlets on. Once it warms up I'll put the A/C unit in dehumidfication mode and take the air dryers out.
 
Finals on the stereo upgrade.
1. Alpine cdm 118 head unit- Awesome!!! 2 zones- below decks and above with usb/ipod hook in- I can run my mini Mp3 player from my console while driving! and it sounds great
2. Memphis d-class 4+1 amp for all outdoor speakers and sub
3.sub- [FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]JL Audio Marine M10IB5
4. rockford fosgate 262m speakers - my favorite installer ordered 2black and 2 white and never bothered to change them out- then he went outa business. (hmm wonder why) He said " I will change em out when they come in so use the black ones for now " so I said "I will pay you the balance when you bring the white ones out" - guess I now have black ones.
[/FONT] IMG_0924a.jpgIMG_0919a.jpgIMG_0918a.jpg
 
Masmar what is your speaker set up in the cockpit? I just swapped out the stock Clarion speakers for Polk db 651s. My boat was stock with only 2 speakers in the whole cockpit, one next to the helm and the other opposite forward of the port seat. The Polks really make a big difference. They sound sooo much better than the Clarions. Now i'm wondering if i need to add 2 more speakers somewhere on the arch or aft of the arch... You're system looks awesome! A nice Alpine head unit for sure.

Also what did you put in the cabin to replace those 2 overhead speakers in the ceiling? I need to upgrade those things for sure.
 
ippa2 said:
Masmar what is your speaker set up in the cockpit? I just swapped out the stock Clarion speakers for Polk db 651s. My boat was stock with only 2 speakers in the whole cockpit, one next to the helm and the other opposite forward of the port seat. The Polks really make a big difference. They sound sooo much better than the Clarions. Now i'm wondering if i need to add 2 more speakers somewhere on the arch or aft of the arch... You're system looks awesome! A nice Alpine head unit for sure.

Also what did you put in the cabin to replace those 2 overhead speakers in the ceiling? I need to upgrade those things for sure.
Click to expand...

It is an absolute must to add two more speakers behind the helm! Check out my photos under my call name and you will see all the JL audio speakers I have added to my cockpit! Awesome sound! Also, the cabin speakers are an easy swap out! Good luck!
 
question for all you 330 owners, I have a 95 330 with 454's. The engines are nearing the end and thinking of repowering. What do you think is the best repower for this boat. Keeping fuel, power and the fact that 454's aren't in production anymore in mind. Also I have V drives.

Thx
 
skyykingg said:
question for all you 330 owners, I have a 95 330 with 454's. The engines are nearing the end and thinking of repowering. What do you think is the best repower for this boat. Keeping fuel, power and the fact that 454's aren't in production anymore in mind. Also I have V drives.

Thx
Click to expand...

I asked my buddy (Also my mechanic) this question when he came with me a couple of years ago to check out my boat before I bought it. He said they would just rebuild my engines if something happened. I'm not sure of the cost but, he said to change over to the new 8.1's (?) would be very costly as there are alot of accessory parts and such that would also need to be changed. I'm not sure if the tranny's were part of the equation too.

That's my plan anyway. Maybe the more technical guys can add some specific insight.
 
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