Official 330/350 (2008 and newer) Thread

WDCboater said:
Quick question, totally unrelated have you changed your own spark plugs on your 8.1's before? I got the plugs and am pondering doing it myself, but access looks to be a huge pain.
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Not sure if ziekman has change his yet but I did last season. Not too hard, but there are a few tricks including plug boot puller, dielectric grease, Mechanix wear gloves, and removing the cooling hose. See this thread:
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/26439-How-Why-to-Change-Spark-Plugs-in-8-1-s?highlight=plugs
Hope this helps.
Tom
 
Thanks for the input folks, much appreciated.

Jess

WDCboater said:
Are you going to stick with chain and rope or go all chain?
You don't have anywhere near enough line to anchor in 50' of water.

5 to 1 Ratio in flat calm seas (At 50' that's 250')
7 to 1 Ratio in Normal (At 50' that's 350')
10 to 1 Ratio in windy/rough seas (At 50' that's 500')
BoatUS has a helpful guide here: http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/anchors-and-rodes.asp

I'd go with 25' of chain and 150' of line. This gives you an anchor depth up to 25' in normal conditions. (up to 35' when flat calm) If you need to be in deeper water go with 200' of line.

I mainly anchor in 20' or less and have 25' of chain and 150' of line.
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Tom, I recall seeing that thread, "after" adding plug/wire replacements to the winter work order, with the marina. Interestingly, they did not recommend new wires, said would be a waste of $$$$'s.
 
ziekman@cox.net said:
Tom, I recall seeing that thread, "after" adding plug/wire replacements to the winter work order, with the marina. Interestingly, they did not recommend new wires, said would be a waste of $$$$'s.
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Art- I agree about the wires. When I changed my plugs I didn't do the wires either. The plugs alone made a huge difference. Went from running rich and missing at speed to perfect once again.
Tom
 
Lanier Tom said:
Art- I agree about the wires. When I changed my plugs I didn't do the wires either. The plugs alone made a huge difference. Went from running rich and missing at speed to perfect once again.
Tom
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I'm leaving the wires. They look like new.
good to hear the tips on replacing the plugs.
 
Did a quick 2 day one night trip to Block Island. On the way over on Sunday I noticed some large variation of the oil pressure on the starboard engine, 8.1's, compared to the port. Usually run according to the analog gauges around 55PSI at 3200 RPM but the starboard gauge read from 40 to 55 PSI intermittently during the last 4 or 5 miles. This was the first real run of the season so I wondered if maybe the tech had not added the last quart of oil or there might be a leak. Everything correct under the hatch so I used the Smartcraft read outs on the return. Variation was lower, in the 4-7 PSI range but I noticed a 25% variation in PSI for the water pressure, running just under 20 PSI on port engine and 14.7 PSI on starboard at 3500 RPM.

I had to have the seawater pump replaced on the port engine so part of the variation might be due to the new pump and impeller vs original on the starboard. Was wondering if anyone has seen these types of fluctuations in oil pressure also what is the spec for the water pressure PSI?

I also found a disconnected vacuum hose on the starboard engine that looks like it comes from possibly a sensor or sending unit to the right of the bottom pulley but can't find a place where it connects on the upper part of the engine. Hose is also fairly short. Plan to go back to boat later this week with my digital camera probe in order to get between the engines for a better look. Wondering if this might be causing the variation in PSI read outs.

Any inputs are appreciated.
 
Hi,

Would anyone have pictures of aftermarket Camper Canvas for a 2010-2012 350 ?

Thanks
 
uvu3ada2.jpg


John, interestingly enough, my water pressure was off, as well. I'm going to pull last years records, to see variation there. I'll follow this thread, as both issues are of interest. Were both oil levels the same on your engines? You were in synch mode?
 
sgougeon said:
Hi,

Would anyone have pictures of aftermarket Camper Canvas for a 2010-2012 350 ?

Thanks
Click to expand...

I don't know who has done the conversion, but you might want to look at boats for sale online, like BoatTrader.com. You might find one there. My dock neighbor has one on his 310, looks good, but no different than any other conversion.
 
Hi Art,

Yes, the engines were running the same RPM and oil levels same. Since I was running about 300 RPM higher than you when I took the readings I would have expected my port engine to have higher Oil PSI than yours but the difference could be due to the viscosity. Could be my marina is using a lower viscosity oil than yours. Clearly my starboard engine reading is lower than yours even at your lower RPM.

The water pressure readings seem to correlate with my starboard engine. I recall you saying in an earlier post that you had original sea water impellers and pumps and so does my starboard engine. The port engine just had a costly $1700 pump, pulley and belt replacement due to a bearing seizing up which caused the pump shaft to snap off and launch the pulley into a support bracket with it. I would expect the PSI in the port engine to be higher. Probably an impeller change for next season in the starboard. No issue cooling the engine so at current PSI but it would be nice to know at what PSI is too low but nothing I can find in manuals or on-line.

Would have posted a photo of the display but have tried screen shots, exporting and resizing resolution etc into the low KB range but every time I try to post it gives me an error message saying 84MB too large even though photo is in the KB range. Might be an Apple thing as I use either an iPad or iPhone to take the photos. Even tried copying photo to a PC and that did not work either.

Thanks for your feedback.

Did you stay at in Old Harbor or New Harbor while in Block? I was at Champlains in the Marina on Sunday into Monday morning early.
 
John B: We were on a town mooring last Wed, through Sun about 9 am, so probably just missed you. Memorial day wknd is a great time to be there, and overall conditions to and from, and weather on the island were favorable.

I have an older service manual, and will look to see if any specs exist. If you PM your email, I'll forward it to you.

Regarding the display, all I did was upload, directly from my Android, via Tapatalk.

I did have both impellers and belts replaced, now season 3 with them. I plan to do again over the winter, along with having the manifolds pulled, for inspection.
 
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navygy8u.jpg



Finally able to post photo of the Helm with the E125, auto pilot and matching instrument display. Thanks Art form the Tapatalk suggestion.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Nice looking dash, John. I'll snap and post mine this week. As for specs on oil/ water pressure, all I could find was this for oil and absolutely nothing on water: 2000 RPM = 60; IDLE = 30.
 
Since I have owned my 330, I have said the single ugliest job would be replacing the low water bilge pump under the engines. Well, this weekend I got my chance after it fouled. Had to pull one riser and dangle upside down for a good part of the day to get it done, but all went well. I test both pumps every year and was glad to find the problem at the dock. My float switch was also unreliable/sluggish. When the bruises on my torso heal, I will consider this a victory.
 
bport said:
Since I have owned my 330, I have said the single ugliest job would be replacing the low water bilge pump under the engines. Well, this weekend I got my chance after it fouled. Had to pull one riser and dangle upside down for a good part of the day to get it done, but all went well. I test both pumps every year and was glad to find the problem at the dock. My float switch was also unreliable/sluggish. When the bruises on my torso heal, I will consider this a victory.
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Hats off to you!
 
Has anyone ever replaced their fresh water pump on their 350?
I have a Jabsco ParMax 3.5 pump for my fresh water system. Last weekend it just stopped pumping water.

Today I spent all afternoon trying to fix it. First, I pulled the strainer between the input hose and the pump. The screen was completely coved with slime and debris so I cleaned it, reinstalled it and followed Jabsco's instructions for re-priming the system. I opened all of the faucets and turned the pump back on. After a few seconds water started to flow, but the flow was weak. As I started to close the faucets I thought the pressure would improve, but it only was a minor improvement. When I turned all of the faucets off the pump kept running.

The instructions say this can be caused by:
-punctured pump diaphragm
-discharge line leak
-defective pressure switch
-debris under the flapper valve

I powered off the pump and proceeded to disassemble it. I didn't notice any damage to the parts inside. When I reassembled it I still had minimal water flow and it still failed to shut off.

Any thoughts? It looks like a whole new pump is only about $120. Is it worth replacing or is there a fix I'm missing?

Thanks!
 
1. The pump parts can be exchanged - but what it is giving you low flow is hard to tell. You can take it all apart and clean it.

2. If you upgrade the pump - I can recommend putting in a pump with a pressure tank like I did. Much less noise and more constant water pressure. But it takes up a lot more space due to the pressure tank. Alternative is ShurFlow's newer pump that adjusts pump speed based on needed pressure. The pressure tank version is about $500-$600 - the "auto adjust" pump is about $200-$300
 
kaz911 said:
1. The pump parts can be exchanged - but what it is giving you low flow is hard to tell. You can take it all apart and clean it.

2. If you upgrade the pump - I can recommend putting in a pump with a pressure tank like I did. Much less noise and more constant water pressure. But it takes up a lot more space due to the pressure tank. Alternative is ShurFlow's newer pump that adjusts pump speed based on needed pressure. The pressure tank version is about $500-$600 - the "auto adjust" pump is about $200-$300
Click to expand...

Which model ShurFlow do you have?
The SHURflo® 12 VDC Extreme looks like the one that would replace mine. I'd have to check, but I don't think the height is a problem if the footprint is about the same. The only issue is I'd have to reroute my hot water supply line. SR ran it right across the too of the water pump inlet and there is zero room.
 
WDCboater said:
Which model ShurFlow do you have?
The SHURflo® 12 VDC Extreme looks like the one that would replace mine. I'd have to check, but I don't think the height is a problem if the footprint is about the same. The only issue is I'd have to reroute my hot water supply line. SR ran it right across the too of the water pump inlet and there is zero room.
Click to expand...

I put in the Extreme High Flow System

http://www.shurflo.com/marine-produ...pumps/extreme-series-pumps/default.html#tab19

The Extreme Smart Sensor is the variable speed pump I would have put in as 2nd choice.

I can now only hear my water pump when I am very quiet and nothing else is running on the boat. No harsh sounds at all and no "banging or clunking" so now I no longer wake up our little guy when using water :)
 
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