Official 320 Dancer Thread

pog mo thon said:
I am going to have MM do the work early spring.
I need a new block engine + new manifolds risers and elbow on the port side.

MM estimate is at 10 grand.

what I am really upset about is that the engine block could have been salvage if they would have got to it on time but it was the 4th of July weekend and salt water sat there for a week!
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Damn. What a bummer. The good news is that once it's fixed you'll be back out on the water!!
 
How easy (or difficult) is it to walk to the front deck of the 320? Is it slippery due to the sharp down-slope?
 
majoma said:
How easy (or difficult) is it to walk to the front deck of the 320? Is it slippery due to the sharp down-slope?
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I am not sure what you mean by sharp downslope but we have no problem, main issue for us was learning the step over routines on the narrow single sole wide gunwale..... If you are in a hurry to get up front it is a bit narrow for quick maneuvers.
 
That's what I suspected. Having to go up front myself to handle the fenders, it would be tricky with those narrow sides. Being used to a boat with an open windshield, I have to think about moving up to the 320.
 
It's not too bad. I have done this several times alone on my 320. Just take your time and be safe.
 
There two of these lights over my solon seat that can be adjusted/directed, I've been told that the fixture is spring loaded and you can just pull straight down to access the lightbulb. Can anyone please tell me what type of bulb is in these, I'd like to get some LED replacements.
 image.jpg
Also has anyone replaced the lights in the engine compartment with LEDs? If so what type of bulb?

Thanks!
 
J.Wilt said:
There two of these lights over my solon seat that can be adjusted/directed, I've been told that the fixture is spring loaded and you can just pull straight down to access the lightbulb. Can anyone please tell me what type of bulb is in these, I'd like to get some LED replacements.
View attachment 38727
Also has anyone replaced the lights in the engine compartment with LEDs? If so what type of bulb?

Thanks!
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I would go to Marinebeam.com-its a G4-they will match up for you-you can also call and discuss the engine light replacement
 
As the season ended in 2014 I knew I was losing a battery. That being said after the boat was pulled, sure enough the rear starboard positioned battery was toast.
Now over the winter months I am contemplating which battery to buy to replace in the spring.

I have read several articles here on batteries and replacements and layouts etc. but I am curious about my setup. As others have mentioned in the 320 group they have two banks of batteries divided for starting and house power etc. My question to all 320 owners around the 2004 era is what batteries are being used. I only ask this because I have 4 identical Interstate 31P MHD High Cycling batteries and they are not deep cycling.

According to the Interstate website, they are just a high cranking HD battery for trucks.

Shouldn’t I have one or two deep cycling batteries in this cluster? Also didn’t I read somewhere that you should replace both batteries on the same lines at once when one goes?

This Interstate setup was in the boat when we purchased it. Any input?

Thx
Bill :smt021
 
I have 4 Dual Purpose (Deep Cycle and Starting) Group 27 marine batteries in my 2005 320DA. I believe i bought the last set from Costco. Each set of 4 has lasted me 4 full seasons and i spend TONS of time on the hook. The total cost for all 4 has been around $350. I've thought about moving to AGMs but the cost difference was too high. You can also use group 31 batteries which have more AMP hours and slightly more CCA (cold cranking amps). Same size and form factor. My experience has been that towards the end of the 4th full season, one of the 4 batteries will start to show signs of EOL (end of life). I replace all 4 batteries together. Hope this helps. :)
 
I have reached the point where I need to re caulk my windshield. The old stuff is coming out in chunks now whenever I wash the boat and I can see daylight through the bottom of the frame. Has anyone done this and if so, any pointers or tips? Do I need to dig out all the old stuff before laying in new or can I just fill it up spatula it out and be done with it? What caulk/sealant to use?

I also need to re cement the aft bilge blower vent top panels, they are both seriously loose and I am in danger of losing them. I was told in another thread construction adhesive was the way to go, any pointers on this as well?
 
I have a Kohler 5E generator on my 320 Sundancer. I have bought a home in Florida and I currently live and boat in Chicago and we are planning on moving soon to Florida. My question and it may be a dumb one can you convert your generator from a water cooled to a closed cooled system like the boats engines? I can't imagine cooling the generator with salt water?
 
Phil'n Nauti said:
I have a Kohler 5E generator on my 320 Sundancer. I have bought a home in Florida and I currently live and boat in Chicago and we are planning on moving soon to Florida. My question and it may be a dumb one can you convert your generator from a water cooled to a closed cooled system like the boats engines? I can't imagine cooling the generator with salt water?
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Answered in the other thread you posted this question.
 
Updated the Sundancer logo today. I think it is a nice updated look.

image1.jpg
 
skolbe said:
Where did you have the graphics made? Looks nice!
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Thanks! Just a local graphics shop that I use. Just kept tweaking the layout until I found the one I wanted to stick with. I toyed back and forth with having "320" or "three-twenty" and the size. I ended up going 26 inches in length. To me it changed the look of the entire boat. My old ones were say faded and dated in design. I will try and find out the font he used.
 
I scraped all the old sealant from the windshield, used 4200 and wiped with my finger. Came out well. I too had the blower panels loose. Got lucky and a snap from cockpit cover kept it from falling into the water. I had water getting into the bilge prior to reinstalling due to the sealant rotting away. Used construction adhesive to reattach and 4200 around all the gaps. No more water in bilge (stays bone dry) and panel is very secure.
 
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