Official 320 Dancer Thread

2005 320 Da smartcraft or sensor issues
Guys - relative newbie and on my ipad on the boat so I hope I have posted right.

I had posted part of these issues later last year but am just getting to the boat right now.
i have a myriad of smartcraft or sensor issues and had a question or two I hope someone can help with.
The symptoms:-
- port prop trim stuck indication at 25, display moves when I actually trim up and down but reverts to 25 after I stop trimming
- starboard fuel tank on both display and analogue gauge stuck at 100%, I have moved and cleaned the float - the float sensor resistance moves from 33 to 260 ohms through travel range and travel seems free when out of the tank.
- sea temp alarm HI at 82 degrees F
- depth on smartcraft bounces all over the place when in motion


i have reset sensors from settings screen but it made no difference. I cannot see any earth issues at the engine.
I know these could all be separate issues but it seems weird that they all appear the same time, the boat is new to me but thse errors wee not present last year ( a friend is PO). It has been sitting idle in water for 8 months and v few hours on it last season.


I have read somewhere online (can't find it now) there is a connector block somewhere for the smartcraft - can anyone help me find that.


are there any other ideas or issues I should explore before I give a kidney to a shop?

I think that the sea temp and the depth readings are picked up by the thru hull depth/sea temp sensor-located on the port side in the ER on the bottom of the bilge-maybe just some growth on the sensor-also I believe the Smart Craft connector block is located on the Starboard engine-not sure on the connector block-should be labeled-let me know what you find out-good boating
 
When I'm at my boat -I can't get the internet so I don't get to the benefit of the CSR info pages at the boat but since you can-try the 'Advanced Search'-upper right hand of the page-a big help filled with info about fix its and how to's
 
I am hoping to install a new Raymarine Evolution Autopilot on my 2004 320 DA with V-Drives. Has anyone been through this? My questions are with regard to the best locations for the components including the hydraulic pump, control unit and the sensor core. its pretty tight under the helm.

Any advise or suggestions welcome!
Cheers.

Paul
 
I am hoping to install a new Raymarine Evolution Autopilot on my 2004 320 DA with V-Drives. Has anyone been through this? My questions are with regard to the best locations for the components including the hydraulic pump, control unit and the sensor core. its pretty tight under the helm.

Any advise or suggestions welcome!
Cheers.

Paul

Hey Paul
I can't provide any helpful info, but I'm also interested in adding one to our 320. I really hope you update us with your findings/process.

Thanks
Greg
 
I think that the sea temp and the depth readings are picked up by the thru hull depth/sea temp sensor-located on the port side in the ER on the bottom of the bilge-maybe just some growth on the sensor-also I believe the Smart Craft connector block is located on the Starboard engine-not sure on the connector block-should be labeled-let me know what you find out-good boating

thanks SW - - I read through all the posts I could find, found opened and cleaned the smart craft connectors on both engines. I also did a factory reset and now my starboard tank has gone to 75% - the port is 55% so I am sure it is still not accurate but we will see.

i also had a half lift Sunday and the bottom power washed (cleanest lift I have ever done reflecting the fact a complete dry dock service was done last year and not much time on it since - peace of mind investment but my shoes were dirtier). I did not have time to go into open water but going back to the slip the depth reading has changed and looks more accurate but I will need it out in open water to tell.

anyway - I had to leave for europe Sunday night and given the vessel is new to me I decided to get a Sea ray shop to look it over while I am away - I will update this post when I find out anything and have recovered from the kidney removal.
 
Not sure if photo inserted.
It seems I'm not able to attach photos to my replies.
 
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Hope everything heals well and fast-look forward to hearing about the results of the Sea Ray visit- keep a good thought
 
Reposting here should anyone make it out to their boat this weekend and gets a chance to take a pic.

If its not too much trouble, can some please post a picture of the back of their tv which is mounted to the bulk head. I'm trying to get a sense of what the mount connections looks like from within the hatch under the helm. Ideally this would be from a 320 but I think the 340 may be similar. I'm wondering if there are any sorts of rubber mounts or washers which are used to reduce vibrations. This would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Does anyone know if the factory premium sound wiring for the amps are wired directly to the batteries or a terminal strip behind the electrical panel in the cabin? Replaced the 2 clarion amps and installed a single JL Audio to run the components and subwoofer. Now I have tons of 12v buzz through the speakers. Very loud and embarrassing. JL Audio said to run the stereo power leads directly off the amp wires. Don't see how that would solve anything unless amp is wired to the battery
 
Hi All:

Last year there were several postings, including my own, regarding the removal of the bolsters in the v-birth of the 320DA. Well I'm happy to say I have completed the reno and I am totally satisfied with the results. I have created the following with pics for anyone thats interested in doing the same.

Start with the removal of the three bolsters. You have to first remove the four screws located in the cabinets above the port and starboard bolsters. Then start on the port side and reach underneath the first bolster and start feeling and loosening the screws. From there they will come out one after the other with the appropriate screws removed. My pics go thru the before during and after.

Original (Medium) (Small).JPG
Original Sea Ray Design

Bolsters Remvd (Medium) (Small).JPG
Bolsters Removed

Port (Medium) (Small).JPG
Port Side

Port Fwd (Medium) (Small).JPG
Port Forward

Starboard (Medium) (Small).JPG
Starboard Side

IMG_0536 (Medium) (Small).JPG
Entire Mattress Removed

IMG_0543 (Medium) (Small).JPG
Port Side of V-birth Corner Exposed

IMG_1047 (Medium) (Small).JPG
Cabinet cover port corner removed to gain access to remove vinyl covering on hull walls.

IMG_1048 (Medium) (Small).JPG
Removal of Vinyl covering around hull area

IMG_1050 (Medium) (Small).JPG
All Vinyl around V-birth removed

IMG_1053 (Medium) (Small).JPG
New vinyl (with 1/2" foam backing not 1/4" like original) installed on port side
and bow section.

IMG_1057 (Medium) (Small).JPG
New vinyl installed around all sides

IMG_1059 (Medium) (Small).JPG
New Bolsters installed. Bolsters were created by saving the top piece of plywood
from the original bolsters just to maintain the sizes and curves in the bow section.
Then those pieces were modified to custom build a wooden form of approx 6" which
was then taken to the upholsterer for completion of materials. Side bolsters were
fastened from the old screw locations down through the cabinets and the bow section was
fastened from below before the sides were installed.

IMG_1064 (Medium) (Small).JPG
Finished reno. Bed was enhanced by a 3" Memory foam on top of a 4" memory
foam which is like heaven to sleep on. Bed length and width went from approximately
a double bed to between a Queen size and a King size layout. We buy King size sheets to
accomodate it. The Captain is totally happy with this setup.
If you have any questions or would like more detailed pics let me know.

Bill:smt038
 
Way cool bed modification project. Going to take a look at mine this weekend. Would love to gain a little more room. After completing your project anything you might do a little different?
 
I did the same thing, new 8" cooling memory foam mattress and it is awesome. Especially that the bed is a ton bigger. I just need to finish the area like Bill did but that will probably be over the winter.

nice work Bill...looks awesome
 
If I did anything different it would be to glue the foam backing and the covering vinyl on separately. I had the upholsterer glue the two together and there was several wrinkles we had to work really hard to stretch out. Other than that the only thing is I would have done it sooner.

Way cool bed modification project. Going to take a look at mine this weekend. Would love to gain a little more room. After completing your project anything you might do a little different?
 
Anyone have to replace the the switch pad module on the stud side of helm? I can't get the windless to go up and down and when I press the power button the little light does not come on but the foot switches work up on the bow. The dealer said the pads are over $300 something....ouch! You have to replace the whole pad if just one thing doesn't work.
 

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Anyone have to replace the the switch pad module on the stud side of helm? I can't get the windless to go up and down and when I press the power button the little light does not come on but the foot switches work up on the bow. The dealer said the pads are over $300 something....ouch! You have to replace the whole pad if just one thing doesn't work.
Anyone have to replace the the switch pad module on the stud side of helm? I can't get the windless to go up and down and when I press the power button the little light does not come on but the foot switches work up on the bow. The dealer said the pads are over $300 something....ouch! You have to replace the whole pad if just one thing doesn't work.




Hey Jeff
Your not gonna believe this, but last weekend I'm cruising under the Spring Lake bridge next to the Holiday Inn. We pass a 320 with a green camper canvas, so I turn to check out the name. Yep, "No Regrets". The canvas does look great btw. Here's the strange part. We went for a quick swim in spring lake, go to raise the anchor and nothing. Same deal, bow controls work. PLEASE let us know the end result of this. Didn't make it out this weekend and Coast Guard fest is next, therefore I'm sure it's gonna be at least a couple of weeks before I can look at mine. I'm sort of hoping it's not the panel and maybe a relay.
Thanks
Greg
 
Mine was doing the same thing . breaker on eim in engine compartment tripped for main power green light
also there is a fuse on relay located in engine compartment located behind large plastic cover I beleave it was 20 amp smll blade fuse
 
Don't assume the panel is bad, confirm the windless is operating correctly. My pad acted weird with a bad bilge pump.
 
Don't assume the panel is bad, confirm the windless is operating correctly. My pad acted weird with a bad bilge pump.
It works fine with the foot switches.
Mine was doing the same thing . breaker on eim in engine compartment tripped for main power green light
also there is a fuse on relay located in engine compartment located behind large plastic cover I beleave it was 20 amp smll blade fuse
Where is the breaker on the EIM? I checked the fuse on the relay and it is fine, don't think the foot switch would work if that fuse was bad.
 

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