Official 320 Dancer Thread

went out this weekend and found the port motor according to smart craft to only have .2 psi h2o water flow, no over heating and visual inspection of exhust looked the same flow as the port motor, water pump is new,strainer clean and everthing worked last weekend. Anybody know where the SC water psi sensor is or any ideas.
 
How old is the impeller on that motor? It might be worth checking. On the other hand the sensor may just become weak and give you false reading. I had mine failed last year on the port side.
 
Not certain on your engine but it should be in the back of the engine, on the powersteering cooler. I have a picture of it on one of my recent posts to another thread on the same subject.
 
do you know where the sensor is located?

I had MM mobile service do it for me, I didn't have a chance to see the location. Sorry I can't help you with that. Looks like GerryB got it covered.
 
Not certain on your engine but it should be in the back of the engine, on the powersteering cooler. I have a picture of it on one of my recent posts to another thread on the same subject.

thank you I knew someone had the answer
 
:thumbsup: I just listed my 2003 Sea Ray 320 on the classified section. The boat is located in Palm Coast, Fl. Immaculate with every bell and whisle. Turn Key down to the last light bulb. Loaded: Raymarine Radar, E-80 chartplotter, SC5000 Smartcraft display, marine wifi antenna, wireless tv to take out on the dock, 19" LCD with DVD player in cabin, 6.2 MPI V Drives, Custom Camper Canvas...more Check it out, it is one of the few and far betweens. I'm retiring next year and plan to move to the St. Pete area. So I'm looking to go a litte bigger with a flybridge once I get settled in. So I thought I might try and sell her now or if not, trade it in later on a flybridge.
 
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does your stereo "mute" button on the dash work? (which should "mute" the non-cabin speakers). the light on mine works, but it doesn't do anything. I can't have the stereo in the cabin working w/o every speaker on the boat working. Owners manual says it should. do you think I might have a loose wire in there somewhere? or no wire?
 
have you tried changing LOW PASS FILTER settings? You can find all details in the clarion manual. I had readjust it after the winter. Mine was providing sound to cabin speakers only. Once I got the manual out and was changing the settings I could get either cabin, cockpit or both going.
 
does your stereo "mute" button on the dash work? (which should "mute" the non-cabin speakers). the light on mine works, but it doesn't do anything. I can't have the stereo in the cabin working w/o every speaker on the boat working. Owners manual says it should. do you think I might have a loose wire in there somewhere? or no wire?

on my 320 - that switch (located top right of dash) - controls all power to my audio system. No sound unless light is on. To manage exterior and interior - this is done (on mine) by the stereo amp breaker. My amp only drives the exterior speakers, when off I only get cabin sound powered by radio output. To further manage - I use the fader when someone wants to watch TV/DVD while I'm on deck. Hope this helps.
 
Thanks to both of you. I'll try a few of your suggestions. With the light off, everything is fully powered, so at least mine seems to be wired differerently....
 
If any one is looking to replace their carpet here is a link that will give you the same exact burber carpet that you would pay $600 to $800 dollars from Sea Ray. It cost me a little over $200.00 to replace all my cockpit carpets. I bought the carpet, took my old carpet to use as a templet, found a good carpet business that does binding. They cut it, bound it, and sent me on my way. I did not put the snaps back in as they don't move much in the first place but that's your choice. They also carry the snaps with the extra long shafts. You will need those. It is the exact same carpet down to the backing. Here is the link:
http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/Marine_Carpet/Carpet/Berber_Marine_Carpet/index.html
 
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Good link. When my $138 dollar, wall-wall Walmart cockpit carpet wears out, I may have it re-made with that stuff. Anyone have a link to the non Sea Ray, upgraded version? Or, maybe this is actually it?
 
I saw a thread on this subject earlier, but I could not find it. I am installing a tv in the cockpit and wondering if anyone has a suggestion to brand? I am going to install the tv on the radar arch (just like the new 330's) and thinking of going with a 19'. I am worreid about glare...anybody installed one and have a suggestion? Also, I have the option of running the tv off of batteries or the generator...any suggestions there as to witch I should go with? I plan on hooking up tv sound to the cockpit speakers as well and not sure if I'll have a drain on batteries???
 
I saw a thread on this subject earlier, but I could not find it. I am installing a tv in the cockpit and wondering if anyone has a suggestion to brand? I am going to install the tv on the radar arch (just like the new 330's) and thinking of going with a 19'. I am worreid about glare...anybody installed one and have a suggestion? Also, I have the option of running the tv off of batteries or the generator...any suggestions there as to witch I should go with? I plan on hooking up tv sound to the cockpit speakers as well and not sure if I'll have a drain on batteries???

I have a lot of experience here, but I'm not sure there is a correct answer. I installed a 19" Jensen HDTV which operates on DC power. It is simply awesome, but is not bright enough for daytime operation. After further research, I am leaning toward a Sharp Aquos 20" for the next one. The Jensen will go inside where lighting won't matter. Sharp makes a 15" DC TV, but, I want at least 19", so, my next TV will be AC powered, I guess. Many have been very happy with the combo DVD TVs, but I think I'm going to pass on that option to go for a higher end tube.

After I install it, I'll decide if I want to watch it without running the genny or on shore power, and if so, I'll begin to look into an inverter. Others have installed fairly cheap inverters, but they are not very efficient, and running a 19" tv off of batteries and an inverter may require additional batteries to be installed. I just don't think there is any one go-to TV for our applications.

It doesn't make sense to me. All LCD screens are DC powered, so, why can't you buy an extremely bright DC powered TV? They make really bright AC powered ones. A 20" uses about 65 watts.
 
The carpet is just like what you would see on the 2008 models...if that helps. Well worth the money and it amazes me the mark up Sea Ray is charging for carpet. Other items maybe but carpet...I spent about a month tracking it down on the internet and then bingo. I ordered a small piece to check it out and when it came in I knew I found the right place. The carpet is exactly like the burber carpet they use.

Now if you want a wi-fi antenna to get free internet access most of the time, I found a good place to get one and it picks up just about everything within a mile. Some are secured but I always seem to have 3 or 4 that aren't. Cancelled my air card and saved fifty bucks a month. It is a usb antenna and the card is already built in. All you do is install the driver and plug it into a usb port on your computer...your connected. You can buy the extension usb cord and that will give you enough line to use it anywhere you want on the boat..cockpit or cabin...but you can only extend it one time or it will be underpowered and will not operate.

www.radiolabs.com ....look for the marine wifi...about 169.00 and worth every dollar in my opinion. I have never hit a spot where I could not connect but there may be some out there...so far...so good.
 
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Agreed. I have been back and forth on this for a while now and it is getting close to football season, so I need to decide!!! I am going with the LCD, hopefully it'll cut the glare a little? I am after a good picture first and if it is AC or DC second. Thanks for the input and I'll be sure to post what make/model I go with...if it works!
 
Inside the arch, no..it is too big. It stands about 2 1/2 feet tall and needs to be in the open. I mounted mine on top of the arch and used a regular antenna mount. The Wi-Fi antenna has treads to screw on to a mount. I fished it down the starboard side of the arch and then I used the usb extension (about 16 feet long) to fish it into the power panel..I used a 5/8 hole drill (not a hole saw but I can't recall the name..it has a point to start and then drills a round hole) and drilled a hole into the right side upper panel near the bottom of that panel (far right side will have an open area) then fed the usb through it and had about 6 feet of cable to spare...I could sit at the table in the cabin. I also bought another spare usb extension and if I want to use it in the cockpit I pull the the starboard panel and connect it to the usb from the antenna...when it cools down I am going to look at a better way of doing that has I don't like to keep pulling the panel but for now I mainly use it in the cabin. Oh one more thing, I bought a fitting at West Marine that will allow you to run the cable through the arch and seal the hole you made for the usb to go through...it is located where the radio and antenna stuff is.
 
Inside the arch, no..it is too big. It stands about 2 1/2 feet tall and needs to be in the open. I mounted mine on top of the arch and used a regular antenna mount. The Wi-Fi antenna has treads to screw on to a mount. I fished it down the starboard side of the arch and then I used the usb extension (about 16 feet long) to fish it into the power panel..I used a 5/8 hole drill (not a hole saw but I can't recall the name..it has a point to start and then drills a round hole) and drilled a hole into the right side upper panel near the bottom of that panel (far right side will have an open area) then fed the usb through it and had about 6 feet of cable to spare...I could sit at the table in the cabin. I also bought another spare usb extension and if I want to use it in the cockpit I pull the the starboard panel and connect it to the usb from the antenna...when it cools down I am going to look at a better way of doing that has I don't like to keep pulling the panel but for now I mainly use it in the cabin. Oh one more thing, I bought a fitting at West Marine that will allow you to run the cable through the arch and seal the hole you made for the usb to go through...it is located where the radio and antenna stuff is.

Good info, thanks.
 

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