Official 320 Dancer Thread

Re: 320 Squeaky Steering Wheel

My steering wheel on my 2005 320DA is starting to squeak. I peeked through the console door below the column and I can't see how you can lubricate it. Can someone help?

I'm not sure this will help, but I'll give it a try. On the 340, on top of steering column and against the helm, there is a screw-on cap. It is for power steering fluid to actuate the rudders through the hydraulic lines. If it were low, perhaps it would squeak like you're hearing. If it's a simple grease on metal parts thing, never mind.
 
Re: 320 Squeaky Steering Wheel

I'm not sure this will help, but I'll give it a try. On the 340, on top of steering column and against the helm, there is a screw-on cap. It is for power steering fluid to actuate the rudders through the hydraulic lines. If it were low, perhaps it would squeak like you're hearing. If it's a simple grease on metal parts thing, never mind.

Thanks John. It is not the hydraulic fluid. I did top that off just to be sure.
 
Sounds like something is rubbing - maybe behind the helm?
 
Sounds like something is rubbing - maybe behind the helm?

It looks like there is a short shaft that runs into a hydraulic pump box that pumps the fluid to move the rudders. The shaft must have a sleeve or bearings, but I can't figure out how to get inside the pump box to grease the shaft. (that's what she said).
 
320 excessive fuel burn - need suggestions

Just got back from a great trip over the long weekend to Lexington, MI on Lake Huron. Weather was perfect. It is a little over 75 miles one way with light winds the whole time. I topped the tanks off about 20 miles into the trip thinking that should be plenty of fuel for there and back with plenty to spare. Made it back with barely any fuel to spare.

I was cruising mostly around 3700 RPM, which gave me only about 19-20 MPH, which seems low based on what I've read here. I reset the smartcraft after fillup and it had me at .7 MPG, both ways, which is consistent with the fuel burn.

I had 2 adults and 2 teenagers on board. Total of about 600 lbs of people and 200 lbs of other junks. Water and waste tanks were almost empty. Had my 8.5' dinghy with a 28 lb 2HP outboard - total dinghy setup weighs about 150 lbs.

Over the winter the bottom was freshly painted with anti-fouling paint and the props (original 3-blades) were scanned and tuned.

I'm stumped as to why I'm burning so much fuel. Motors seem to run very smooth. I'm thinking of taking the boat into my local Searay dealer for a 100 hr service, and getting their advice. I never like to ask a mechanic blindly for advice without first having a sense for the problem, so I'm looking for ideas. Thanks.
 
Re: 320 excessive fuel burn - need suggestions

I was cruising mostly around 3700 RPM, which gave me only about 19-20 MPH, which seems low based on what I've read here. I reset the smartcraft after fillup and it had me at .7 MPG, both ways, which is consistent with the fuel burn.

sb in gp,
.7-.8 mpg seam to be the numbers I see more often toward the end of the season. On some occasions (wind and currents dependant) .6mpg could be displayed. However, 19-20mph are the low numbers @3700rpms. If you have tried WOT quick test latelly and your max RPMs are up to the specs
while speed is lower than unticipated, then I think checking the bottom condition and running gear would be the first thing I would do. There must be something that's preventing the boat to meed the requirements.
 
Was your dinghy on the swim platform? Did you use any trim tab? The 320DA is butt heavy to begin with, and having extra weight all the way aft isn't going to help.

-CJ
 
It sounds like you were pushing more water than you should have been. When we encounter even a light wind, we may have to run at 3900-4000 rpm to reach the desired speed. At 20 MPH you are pushing alot of water which is very inefficient. I try to run at 25MPH which seems to plane the hull more and not push as much water. You will burn more fuel and depending on wind and current it may not make that much of a difference (but it may). When ever I run at 20MPH my fuel economy number are not great. You can also check the bottom for growth. Even a little growth will effect your number as well.
 
My boat seems like it needs to be at least 24 mph to not be pushing water.
 
Re: 320 excessive fuel burn - need suggestions

sb in gp,
.7-.8 mpg seam to be the numbers I see more often toward the end of the season. On some occasions (wind and currents dependant) .6mpg could be displayed. However, 19-20mph are the low numbers @3700rpms. If you have tried WOT quick test latelly and your max RPMs are up to the specs
while speed is lower than unticipated, then I think checking the bottom condition and running gear would be the first thing I would do. There must be something that's preventing the boat to meed the requirements.

I did a WOT test a few weeks ago. Got right up to 5000 RPM. Didn't have the GPS on to test the speed, but I think it was 30+ on the analog gauge on the dash.
 
Was your dinghy on the swim platform? Did you use any trim tab? The 320DA is butt heavy to begin with, and having extra weight all the way aft isn't going to help.

-CJ

Dinghy was on the platform, but it is a pretty light setup. 8.6' Baltik with a 2HP.
 
My boat seems like it needs to be at least 24 mph to not be pushing water.

Now that you say that, I just realized something. My GPS was reading about 23 Knots, but my smartcraft and analog gauge only read 20 MPH. In my small brain, the conversion was going the other way. Just realized that I was tooling along at about 27 MPH, and not 20. So it sounds like I have a problem with the speed sensor. I assume that the paddle on the bottom of the canoe shaped transducer must have a problem? This should also explain the smartcraft GPH readings being off, since it must be calculating distance based on the speed (the smartcraft it is not interfaced to the GPS).

Does this make sense? Can the paddle be calibrated, or does it need to be replaced?

Can the smartcraft be connected to a Garmin GPS?
 
Smartcraft can be connected to the GPS. NMEA0183 out on the GPS to the blue and white wire ( I think that was the color) on the back of the Smartcraft. At that point, you will also want to change the transition point where the Smartcraft reads from the paddle wheel to the GPS. I found all this information on this site, and all my notes are at the boat so I don't remember exactly but it is possible. I am sure a search will turn up the exact way to do this.

Now that your speed was actually 27 MPH and not 20MPH, things sounds more like normal.
 
Paddlewheels can and do get gunked up with marine growth. Also if you are running with / against a current it will not give an accurate speed over ground (SOG).

-CJ
 
My speedometer is also off by about 5-7mph, so having two GPS display units I have one showing KNTS and another MPH readings and always use them instead of speedo.
 
Go the through the SC menu and find the series regarding boat speed input. Select "Use GPS Speed" or something like that. Find the one that says changeover point or something like that. Dial it down to the lowest speed possible (5mph, I believe). Once it resets, your boat speed will be GPS based.

When you travel in currents, your speed will not reflect boat performance. IOW, if your bottom is horribly fouled, but you have a strong, following current, your boat performance will suck, but will seem ok due to the following current affecting your GPS indications.
 
New question:
I have a 2005 320DA. My domestic water pump keeps running for a few seconds about every one to two minutes when it has power. Its almost like a sink is just barely on and the pump keeps charging the lines.

I have checked all the sinks and the aft shower to make sure they are off and checked the connections that I can see in the engine compartment and see no leaks. Everything still appears very new and clean and I clean the screen next to the pump regularly. This phenomana just started over the last couple weeks.

Any ideas what could be causing this?
 
Have you checked the faucet in the stern locker...may be slightly open and since it will jsut leak out the stern of the boat you may not notice much water there. Just a thought.
 
If you obsolutelly positive that all other connections are fine and no leaks are visible, I would pull out the stern shower (only 6-8 screwses). This will give you clear visual view of connections there. However, if there's a leak in any of the connections you should see some water acummulating somewhere.

Also, is there any water in the bildge? There's a chance for your water heater to leak and collect in the bildge. I had this with mine. I was under the impression (and also stupid surveyor told me that it's the nature of the beast to have a little bit of water in the bildge) that this was normal. But, I hear people saying it should be dry since we have dripless shaft seals. After my WH was replaced my bildge beginning to dry out for the first time ever (at least in the forward part of the bildge).
 
Alex F and Tri21
Both great suggestions and I will definetly look at both this weekend.
I'm really hoping that Tri21 nailed it with the Stern Locker Faucet --- I forgot it was even in there and did not check it!! As many times as the kids have been in there looking for stuff and hooking and unhooking the power cord I bet it got bumped or turned.
If that doesnt work I will give the shower a look as well. And yes, I do have a little water in the bilge which also recently appeared. It was dry earlier in the summer. I dont use the water heater though and am pretty sure it doesnt have water in it (not even sure how to fill it). But I will check it as well.
Thanks guys, great ideas!!
 

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