- Nov 26, 2006
- 7,628
- Boat Info
- 2008 44 Sedan Bridge
- Engines
- Cummins QSC-500's
Straight Drives
Re: Official 320 Dancer Thread - Camper Costs
On my 340, it was about $7500, but I got Makrolon in front and Strataglass in the back, had screens made for three of the windows, and other nice additions.
Take your time and get involved. Tell them exactly what you expect. Where do you want the supports relative to the walk-around/cockpit? On the inner edge? middle? Outside? Do you want purely vertical curtains for maximum room or a shape that matches the lines of the boat/arch. Do you expect to be able to sit upright on the back seat without your hair brushing the glass? Do you want one large aft top or a bimini and an extension? (You probably will not take the top down.)
Get UV resistant, large, plastic zippers.
Get UV resistant thread.
Pay for Strataglass. Consider Makrolon up front.
Have them make the front, center piece so it swings open and snaps to the arch (if they're doing that much).
Do no let them make the piece behind the arch with a 90 degree angle at the top, back. It needs to be about 110 degrees so that the vertical line leans with the line of the boat, not opposite.
Make sure the first, whole piece behind the arch rolls up to access the walk-arounds. Have them sew straps at the tops the right size and placement to roll it up and wrap it, and snap it up.
Make sure they put at least a 3" flap over the zippers at the tops of the curtains. Have a way to snap them down over the zippers.
Don't let them leave holes that you can see out of at zipper junctions - have a flap made.
Don't use standard snaps, but the ones with poles screwed into the deck.
Have them sew plastic liners under the female 1/2 of the snap to protect the material.
Think carefully about what kind of material you use on the top piece.
Inspect the framework for placement, shape, and overall design before wrapping it in $4500 of material and labor. Have them change whatever you don't like before it's complete, not a year later like me.
Have them design the panel over the transom door to match the door's width, then mirrow that on the other side. The middle section covers the rest.
Don't let them put a vertical support beam in one spot, and then a vertical seam a couple of inches to the side - they should overlap.
Have your guy make soft, fuzzy pole covers to protect your windows.
That's all I care to write right now.
EDIT: Open the engine hatch to show them the limiitations at the back sides.
I'm looking at doing a camper this winter on the 320. I have a price of $5600 for the camper and replacement of the front isenglass with strataglass. No framing yet in place, so everything needs to be provided. What have others paid for a similar job?
Thanks,
Scott
On my 340, it was about $7500, but I got Makrolon in front and Strataglass in the back, had screens made for three of the windows, and other nice additions.
Take your time and get involved. Tell them exactly what you expect. Where do you want the supports relative to the walk-around/cockpit? On the inner edge? middle? Outside? Do you want purely vertical curtains for maximum room or a shape that matches the lines of the boat/arch. Do you expect to be able to sit upright on the back seat without your hair brushing the glass? Do you want one large aft top or a bimini and an extension? (You probably will not take the top down.)
Get UV resistant, large, plastic zippers.
Get UV resistant thread.
Pay for Strataglass. Consider Makrolon up front.
Have them make the front, center piece so it swings open and snaps to the arch (if they're doing that much).
Do no let them make the piece behind the arch with a 90 degree angle at the top, back. It needs to be about 110 degrees so that the vertical line leans with the line of the boat, not opposite.
Make sure the first, whole piece behind the arch rolls up to access the walk-arounds. Have them sew straps at the tops the right size and placement to roll it up and wrap it, and snap it up.
Make sure they put at least a 3" flap over the zippers at the tops of the curtains. Have a way to snap them down over the zippers.
Don't let them leave holes that you can see out of at zipper junctions - have a flap made.
Don't use standard snaps, but the ones with poles screwed into the deck.
Have them sew plastic liners under the female 1/2 of the snap to protect the material.
Think carefully about what kind of material you use on the top piece.
Inspect the framework for placement, shape, and overall design before wrapping it in $4500 of material and labor. Have them change whatever you don't like before it's complete, not a year later like me.
Have them design the panel over the transom door to match the door's width, then mirrow that on the other side. The middle section covers the rest.
Don't let them put a vertical support beam in one spot, and then a vertical seam a couple of inches to the side - they should overlap.
Have your guy make soft, fuzzy pole covers to protect your windows.
That's all I care to write right now.
EDIT: Open the engine hatch to show them the limiitations at the back sides.