Official 320 Dancer Thread

[Hampton]

Re: Official 320 Dancer Thread - Camper Costs

I'm looking at doing a camper this winter on the 320. I have a price of $5600 for the camper and replacement of the front isenglass with strataglass. No framing yet in place, so everything needs to be provided. What have others paid for a similar job?

Thanks,
Scott

On my 340, it was about $7500, but I got Makrolon in front and Strataglass in the back, had screens made for three of the windows, and other nice additions.

Take your time and get involved. Tell them exactly what you expect. Where do you want the supports relative to the walk-around/cockpit? On the inner edge? middle? Outside? Do you want purely vertical curtains for maximum room or a shape that matches the lines of the boat/arch. Do you expect to be able to sit upright on the back seat without your hair brushing the glass? Do you want one large aft top or a bimini and an extension? (You probably will not take the top down.)

Get UV resistant, large, plastic zippers.
Get UV resistant thread.
Pay for Strataglass. Consider Makrolon up front.
Have them make the front, center piece so it swings open and snaps to the arch (if they're doing that much).
Do no let them make the piece behind the arch with a 90 degree angle at the top, back. It needs to be about 110 degrees so that the vertical line leans with the line of the boat, not opposite.
Make sure the first, whole piece behind the arch rolls up to access the walk-arounds. Have them sew straps at the tops the right size and placement to roll it up and wrap it, and snap it up.
Make sure they put at least a 3" flap over the zippers at the tops of the curtains. Have a way to snap them down over the zippers.
Don't let them leave holes that you can see out of at zipper junctions - have a flap made.
Don't use standard snaps, but the ones with poles screwed into the deck.
Have them sew plastic liners under the female 1/2 of the snap to protect the material.
Think carefully about what kind of material you use on the top piece.
Inspect the framework for placement, shape, and overall design before wrapping it in $4500 of material and labor. Have them change whatever you don't like before it's complete, not a year later like me.
Have them design the panel over the transom door to match the door's width, then mirrow that on the other side. The middle section covers the rest.
Don't let them put a vertical support beam in one spot, and then a vertical seam a couple of inches to the side - they should overlap.
Have your guy make soft, fuzzy pole covers to protect your windows.

That's all I care to write right now.

EDIT: Open the engine hatch to show them the limiitations at the back sides.

 

[sb in gp]

Re: Official 320 Dancer Thread - Camper Costs

On my 340, it was about $7500, but I got Makrolon in front and Strataglass in the back, had screens made for three of the windows, and other nice additions.

Take your time and get involved. Tell them exactly what you expect. Where do you want the supports relative to the walk-around/cockpit? On the inner edge? middle? Outside? Do you want purely vertical curtains for maximum room or a shape that matches the lines of the boat/arch. Do you expect to be able to sit upright on the back seat without your hair brushing the glass? Do you want one large aft top or a bimini and an extension? (You probably will not take the top down.)

Get UV resistant, large, plastic zippers.
Get UV resistant thread.
Pay for Strataglass. Consider Makrolon up front.
Have them make the front, center piece so it swings open and snaps to the arch (if they're doing that much).
Do no let them make the piece behind the arch with a 90 degree angle at the top, back. It needs to be about 110 degrees so that the vertical line leans with the line of the boat, not opposite.
Make sure the first, whole piece behind the arch rolls up to access the walk-arounds. Have them sew straps at the tops the right size and placement to roll it up and wrap it, and snap it up.
Make sure they put at least a 3" flap over the zippers at the tops of the curtains. Have a way to snap them down over the zippers.
Don't let them leave holes that you can see out of at zipper junctions - have a flap made.
Don't use standard snaps, but the ones with poles screwed into the deck.
Have them sew plastic liners under the female 1/2 of the snap to protect the material.
Think carefully about what kind of material you use on the top piece.
Inspect the framework for placement, shape, and overall design before wrapping it in $4500 of material and labor. Have them change whatever you don't like before it's complete, not a year later like me.
Have them design the panel over the transom door to match the door's width, then mirrow that on the other side. The middle section covers the rest.
Don't let them put a vertical support beam in one spot, and then a vertical seam a couple of inches to the side - they should overlap.
Have your guy make soft, fuzzy pole covers to protect your windows.

That's all I care to write right now.

EDIT: Open the engine hatch to show them the limiitations at the back sides.

Thanks John!

 

[Alex F]

I am looking at a few boats, including the 320DA, likely something in the 2005-2007 range. Four Winns and Chaparral are the others.

I love just about everything on the 320DA except the lack of a walkthrough windshield. I've owned 3 boats to this point, all with walktrhoughs, and I am having trouble imagining life without.

Will I miss it? How difficult is it to use the walk around?

Thanks, John

When purchasing our 320DA my wife was also concerned about lack of walkthrough. We had it on 240DA and it was used everytime. After using the boat (320) for the whole season I find that this is not an issue. While it's much easier to get to the sundeck via walkthrough it's still not so bad going from the sides on 320 and alike. One of the reasons I find it positive not having the walkthrough is when you have small kids. On our 240DA my 3 year old son was constantly going back and forth driving me nuts and keeping me on my tows to make sure he's safe. The fact that 320DA doesn't have it makes this situation much easier. Even if my son jumps on the cabin door from the port sit I know that he's not going anywhere (we have full camper always on and the front icenglass provides protection preventing him going to the bow). I find that when he wants to go to the sundeck from the sides he's affraid to go by himself and would ask for assistants (we also damand this to be done that way). So, as with anything there's always flip side of the coin.

While shopping for 320DA I asked a local salesman why other boats have the walkthrough and 320 doesn't he's reply was that this is a safety issue b/c it's too big of a distantce from the windshild to the closest rail to grab on. I think it's a sale pitch BS. If I had the option I would prefer having the walkthrough like Formula and Four Winns, but this is not a showstopper for 320DA.

 

[sb in gp]

Canvas track zipper ??

This is strange, buy I noticed on the my 320 canvas (front bimini and sunshade) where it attaches to the arch there is a zipper on the canvas that is not attached to anything (it is snapped in place and holds firm). There is a white plastic track on the arch and I assume that there is supposed to be a zipper that inserts into that track and marries to the canvas zipper, right? Just confirming before I call my dealer. BTW I checked the parts manual, and it does not give enough detail to show that part.

Thanks,

Scott

 

[CJ Martin]

Yes, there should be a zipper in that track.

-CJ

 

[rbihn2]

Re: Canvas track zipper ??

My canvas has a mating (male) portion bead edge that slides into the tracks that are along the arch. I start at the end and pull through along. The zipper edges should match up to other canvas sections. Hope this helps! ray

 

[skolbe]

What do you guys use to clean the white slide in track?

 

[rbihn2]

I have not had any issue - usually just part of the routine wash down. Are you seeing something different?

 

[AAK]

First post to the 320 Sundancer site. I didn't see a new thread area to post to; so I'm using a reply to thread. Sorry, wasn't trying to steal a thread.

Here goes:

I've got a 2006 32' Sundancer w/6.2L v-drives and I'm trying to determine what the correct size 4 blade props would be going from the 3 blades. I sold my 1991 35' Sea Ray last fall and just bought this boat. I thought I would try and get the 4 blade props before I put it in the water for this season since I need a set of spare props anyway.

Sea Ray has the original 3 blade props listed as:
18 X 18.5 X 3.55 Cup RH, #1787896
18 X 19 X 3.55 Cup LH, #1752165

I got an emai from Flounder Pounder Marine and they thought the 4 blade props would be 18 X 17 and 18 X 17.5; but they weren't sure so they said to check around. They also recommended this site to get an answer.

Any body have 4 blade props on a 32' SeaRay and know what works?

If anybody has props for sale that fit this boat I might also be interested.

Yep this is my second post and there are a bunch of people on this forum that know these boats inside and out.

Thanks,
Al

 

[sb in gp]

Re: Official 320 Dancer Thread - Camper Costs

On my 340, it was about $7500, but I got Makrolon in front and Strataglass in the back, had screens made for three of the windows, and other nice additions.

Take your time and get involved. Tell them exactly what you expect. Where do you want the supports relative to the walk-around/cockpit? On the inner edge? middle? Outside? Do you want purely vertical curtains for maximum room or a shape that matches the lines of the boat/arch. Do you expect to be able to sit upright on the back seat without your hair brushing the glass? Do you want one large aft top or a bimini and an extension? (You probably will not take the top down.)

Get UV resistant, large, plastic zippers.
Get UV resistant thread.
Pay for Strataglass. Consider Makrolon up front.
Have them make the front, center piece so it swings open and snaps to the arch (if they're doing that much).
Do no let them make the piece behind the arch with a 90 degree angle at the top, back. It needs to be about 110 degrees so that the vertical line leans with the line of the boat, not opposite.
Make sure the first, whole piece behind the arch rolls up to access the walk-arounds. Have them sew straps at the tops the right size and placement to roll it up and wrap it, and snap it up.
Make sure they put at least a 3" flap over the zippers at the tops of the curtains. Have a way to snap them down over the zippers.
Don't let them leave holes that you can see out of at zipper junctions - have a flap made.
Don't use standard snaps, but the ones with poles screwed into the deck.
Have them sew plastic liners under the female 1/2 of the snap to protect the material.
Think carefully about what kind of material you use on the top piece.
Inspect the framework for placement, shape, and overall design before wrapping it in $4500 of material and labor. Have them change whatever you don't like before it's complete, not a year later like me.
Have them design the panel over the transom door to match the door's width, then mirrow that on the other side. The middle section covers the rest.
Don't let them put a vertical support beam in one spot, and then a vertical seam a couple of inches to the side - they should overlap.
Have your guy make soft, fuzzy pole covers to protect your windows.

That's all I care to write right now.

EDIT: Open the engine hatch to show them the limiitations at the back sides.

Here's an update. Found a better price, $4500 for the whole job. Studied John's list, edited a bit and went through it with the canvas guy and he made a few mods and we have a deal. Thanks for the help.

Scott

 

[Hampton]

Good news. I've been re-designing mine on my own. My builder wanted $1500-2000 to re-fit it, and more if he had to add new materials. I couldn't reward him for the project considering that many of my complaints would be seen as errors by at least 75% of boaters.

I, literally, pulled out some of the support structure and re-shaped it using dock cleats and other infrastructure. A local canvas shop will be doing the sewing.

What mods to my list did you make? I may want to consider them.

 

[sb in gp]

Good news. I've been re-designing mine on my own. My builder wanted $1500-2000 to re-fit it, and more if he had to add new materials. I couldn't reward him for the project considering that many of my complaints would be seen as errors by at least 75% of boaters.

I, literally, pulled out some of the support structure and re-shaped it using dock cleats and other infrastructure. A local canvas shop will be doing the sewing.

What mods to my list did you make? I may want to consider them.

We are doing strataglass throughout, with 6 zip out screens (windshield middle, 2 triangular sides and 4 on the camper) for ventilation. On most of your suggestion his response was: "that is our standard procedure".

The mods he suggested were minor, such as:

1. He is not using post snaps because he said that the angle he was using on the 320 would cause the pole snaps to pull out easier.

2. Instead of putting plastic behind the snaps, they sew a vinyl lining into the whole snap edge.

3. They don't do fuzzy pole covers to protect the glass, but instead use spare canvas with velcro holding it in place.

Scott

 

[Hampton]

Good words. The fuzzy pole covers are wide, soft, female velcro strips (color coordinated) with a male strip along the edge. You wrap them around and afix the velcro. They look good and are soft, and cheap!

Sounds like your guy is going to do a great job. Work with him on the design - placement of panels, angles, lines...

 

[edkap2002]

:smt038 We are proud 2006 320 owners, who's the mechanical guru here?

 

[edkap2002]

i have a 2006 320 Dancer with Mag 350 Horizons. I find I have to run full tabs to keep the bow down, even at 3500 RPM...any one else using full trim

 

[edkap2002]

I forgot to add v-drives, 3 blade props

 

[Escapade]

Ed- First off congardulations on the new ride and Calms seas ahead. Although I am not the most knowledgeable on this board by far. Go ahead and fire off some questions. The others who have far more hands on are a great group of guys and will chime in with their wisdom. Welcome to the site.

 

[Hampton]

Let me take a stab. Is the bottom clean? Even if so, 3500 is a low RPM for that boat with V-drives, 3 blades, and 350's. My buddy had the same boat until a week ago, and his standard profile was to push the throttles to the wall to get up on plane with the tabs full down, then he reduced throttle to hold around 4000 RPM to cruise.

I'm not going to say that that boat is under-powered, but it does need to be run at a higher RPM than a lot of other configurations. If heavy, or the bottom is dirty, or there is chop, or a headwind, it's more noticeable. Even so, most people love their 320's. You may have to get used to the higher RPMS. Also, consider re-propping with 4 blades. It will improve your performance.

 

[Alex F]

i have a 2006 320 Dancer with Mag 350 Horizons. I find I have to run full tabs to keep the bow down, even at 3500 RPM...any one else using full trim

edkap2002,
Welcome to 320s Club :thumbsup:. As John had mentioned 3500RPMs is not optimal RPMs for this boat. I find that it performs best in the range of 3650-3750RPMs, this allows me not to use trim even with some chops (2'-3').

Take few more test runs and get better feel for the boat. It took me some time to get use to it coming from 240DA. At my first couple of cruises I felt like the boat is coming off plane. So, it's simply a matter of time until you get to know her.

Good luck,
Alex.

 

[CJ Martin]

Let me second what Alex said. For me, prior to getting up on plane I count to five while running the tabs down. I'll wind her up (smoothly, not slamming the throttle forward) till she's up on plane, then throttle back to around 3700 rpm (a bit less in calm water, a bit more if we have some slop in our face). Depending on how much water is in the freshwater tank, and how full the holding tank is, I may have to use a bit of either tab to level her out side to side.

Best advice when it come to the tabs...make small (one second or less) adjustments, and give it some time to take effect. In salt/brackish water, remember to retract your tabs at the slip...don't want crap growing on the rams.

-CJ