Official 320 Dancer Thread

[Highliner]

We had ours all apart when we did all new curtains for the boat. Same ones in the head as the cabin. Just a flat “T”, 1/4” IIRC

Stopping there in a few hours. I can double check.

Definitely a flat plastic "T" with a short piece of flat elastic looped through the slide and sewn to the curtain.

 

[Carboy]

Anyone know what voltage the meter in the cabin reads? Starboard or port? Or total = combination of both? Was on the hook last weekend, voltage to 12v receptacle in galley and at helm both read 12.6v but Port engine nor generator would start, had to start starboard engine to charge enough to start port the generator.

 

[Shenanigans77]

Anyone know what voltage the meter in the cabin reads? Starboard or port? Or total = combination of both? Was on the hook last weekend, voltage to 12v receptacle in galley and at helm both read 12.6v but Port engine nor generator would start, had to start starboard engine to charge enough to start port the generator.

House bank is starboard bank with starboard motor, the guage only reads that. Port shouldnt have any load unless something aftermarket (stereo amps) tied to that bank??

Parallel switch should have started port motor too…

 

[Harmon]

Definitely a flat plastic "T" with a short piece of flat elastic looped through the slide and sewn to the curtain.

Well thank you, I will rig something if need be.

 

[White Shadow]

@Carboy I have a 2005 320DA and what @Shenanigans77 stated is 100% correct. When I changed out all my batteries this spring I went around testing everything while I had 1 side or the other disconnected. While doing so I discovered that all the speakers in the cockpit are on the port bank whereas the ones down below in the galley area are on the starboard bank. Note that only those speakers are on the port bank along with the genny and the port motor. My guess is you had your stereo on in the cockpit which drained the port bank. And that parallel switch/override should have allowed you to start the port engine once you fired up the starboard.

 

[PJ SeaRay]

Hi All- first post here, and need some help. Looking at a three year old, 185 hour 2020 320 Sundancer. Well kept boat, fully loaded with Gen, AC, Axius, everything we need. She is equipped the standard 300hp Mercs with BIIIs. The salesman was terrific and offered us a quick sea trial. Frankly, I was shocked at how long she took to get on plane, and that the engines needed to run around 4,300 rpm to maintain about 30 mph. Ugh...and this was lightly load with three people, no gear or food and about half a tank of fuel. I know it is not a sport boat, but how long are those engines going to last being used like that? Really like the boat, we love the outside room, and weekend capability of the cabin. However, I just can't pull the trigger with that power package. I am being unreasonable, and should I worry about how those engines seem to strain to move the boat at decent pace.
Full disclosure- I have a '13 Cobalt 296 with twin Merc 377s and BIIIs. She pops right out of the water and does 30 mph at 3k rpm. So my perception of cruiser performance is not yet there.

 

[Carboy]

Thanks Shennagans & White Shadow, I'll check out things next weekend!

 

[Harmon]

Hello, Im looking at getting some new canvas this off season, what is a good source for a complete canvas package, or should I just go through SR?

 

[Groucho]

Great Lakes has all the patterns and generally a fall sale, I used them for years. Check with member here KevinC he is great to work with and can discount the GL pricing.

 

[Harmon]

Great Lakes has all the patterns and generally a fall sale, I used them for years. Check with member here KevinC he is great to work with and can discount the GL pricing.

Thanks Groucho

 

[timp]

I recently had a small victory of sorts that I wanted to share with everyone. The galley fridge on our 2005 320 DA was not working on AC (worked fine on DC). After the usual checks of the circuit breaker and the GFCI I pulled the fridge out. I found the AC power went into a small box on the top of the fridge, and I saw the DC power went into a separate small box. I also noted that there was a small connection from the AC box to the DC box. Process of elimination led me to suspect the AC box was the culprit, so I pulled it out (after unplugging and turning of circuit breakers of course). I saw there was what appeared to be a small fuse on the circuit board within, so I hoped this would be the simple fix (I tested it and it had no continuity). I took the AC circuit board to a local electronics repair shop. The tech first tried to replace the fuse, but it blew again. He told me he wanted to try to order some parts in to fix it - if it works he'd charge $130 if it didn't work there would be no charge. Sounded like a fair deal to me since a new replacement board would be about $400, but they were no longer available from the manufacturer so I wasn't even sure I could find one. Anyways, a couple of days later he tells me it is fixed. I reinstall it onto the fridge and voila - our fridge is now working properly on AC and DC - drinks will always be cold!!

For the record (in case anyone is searching) the fridge is a Norcold model DE0051. The AC power supply is Norcold part number 169000500

View attachment 141334

Would you be able to share the name of the repair shop? I have the exact same problem. Thanks

 

[White Shadow]

Would you be able to share the name of the repair shop? I have the exact same problem. Thanks

Hi @timp It probably wouldn’t help you much as I’m on the west coast (near Vancouver) and your in Ontario (coincidentally I moved here from there). Find a local shop that does electronic repairs they might be able to help.

 

[Hammerdown]

Smartcraft question: photo shown behind tach gauges on 2005 320 - this is factory rigged this way and curious what is the disconnected connector from the junction box in photo with small wires feed? I disconnected it for the photo ….Also the helm harness shows a disconnected white connector to the left that is just laying there and not sure what it is for? switching to a 6 port junction box and dealing with some odd smartcraft behavior

 

[Fill Ess]

@Anthony Robert Papile one thing that helps in cases like this: go to searay.com Owners section. Download the owners manual. Near the back it has the wiring diagrams. On that harness you unplugged from the SC junction box -- it looks like factory wiring because there are numbers printed on the white labels on top of the red and black wires. These numbers should match up to the numbers on the wiring diagrams in the owners manual. THis is a long-winded way to say I don't know exactly what it's for!

Do you have (2) 4-port junction boxes now? I upgraded in the past, from a 6-port that was full to an 8-port when I added vessel view mobile, and a dust cap over the 8th port.

 

[Fill Ess]

Get the numbers off here:

 

[Hammerdown]

Thank you for the hints I checked this and found this

 

[Fill Ess]

Wow there's something strange about the numbers in the PDF, but it looks like?

267 goes to pos 9 on the aft EIM (smartcraft/mercathode unswitched power)
268 goes to ground
269 goes to ign

 

[Hammerdown]

I agree on the wiring The boat was rigged that way from the factory. Only this 4 port JB and that is the power for the smartcraft can bus which I assume powers the sc5000 and the analog gauges …it is Original 05’ 320 v drives mx mpi 6.2 horizons with smartcraft sc5000. I am chasing a random lost com gremlin when running up on plane . The analog gauges drop and come back and I get the 1 beep like a quick blink but the boat engines do not stall or hesitate and I keep going. All analog gauges on stbd side drop and come back like windshield wipers

 

[Hammerdown]

I agree on the wiring The boat was rigged that way from the factory. Only this 4 port JB and that is the power for the smartcraft can bus which I assume powers the sc5000 and the analog gauges …it is Original 05’ 320 v drives mx mpi 6.2 horizons with smartcraft sc5000. I am chasing a random lost com gremlin when running up on plane . The analog gauges drop and come back and I get the 1 beep like a quick blink but the boat engines do not stall or hesitate and I keep going. All analog gauges on stbd side drop and come back like windshield wipers

 

[Hammerdown]

My plan is to check all connections at engine harness to helm and I am swapping out the 4 port to a 6 port j box with weather caps for now.