Official 280 Sundancer Thread

eweise said:
Well, I got both the Bimini and Sunshade tracks removed and cleaned all the old double stick tape residue removed today. Holy s&*t that took forever. Going to try and install the new track tomorrow. I hope I can get it to bend into the shape it needs to be in. I did get the 4000UV.
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Check with the manufacturer first but there is a chance they may need to be heated to bend. From memory, those are some pretty good bends. Not sure how flexible the track is.
 
jason78 said:
Check with the manufacturer first but there is a chance they may need to be heated to bend. From memory, those are some pretty good bends. Not sure how flexible the track is.
Click to expand...

I e-mailed Sea Ray and here is what Terry had to say: Thank you for your inquiry regarding your Sea Ray Sundancer. Generally, the track will work easier if it is warmed by allowing it to lay out in the sun before installation. Also, it can help to use masking tape to outline the contour of the curves to one side of where the track will install. This will provide a guide to position the track. Once the track is secured the tape can be removed without difficulty.

So I e-mailed back and asked about a heat gun and this was the response: A heat gun will work -you just want to be very careful not to get it too hot. We don't generally recommend the heat gun simply because of the potential to overheat.

Just FYI for anyone else that may be considering. Looks like rain this weekend so I'll have to wait until the next for the install.
 
Morning Gents...lots of pgs of posts to sort through, so would anybody have a quick take on the single 6.2l eng option. I understand the later models had either twins or the 496, so I guess that would be indicative. The boat does not have a genny and would mostly be used by 2 adults.
Good, bad or stay away???
 
You may want to check this archive on CSR with help with that question:
http://clubsearay.com/archive/index.php/t-23794.html
When I was looking for a 280 I just missed a nice 280 with a 6.2, and I'm glad I did. The 496 is 375 hp, whereas the 6.2 is 300hp (or is it 320hp?). Although I'm glad I went with the 496, even when comparing it to twin 4.3's, I'd say I wouldn't want any less power. There was a reason Sea Ray quickly switched from the 6.2 and went with the 496.

That said, if you are boating on a lake and don't do much cruising, spending most of the time hanging out at your slip (like some at my marina) the 6.2 might work for you.
 
Timeflys said:
Morning Gents...lots of pgs of posts to sort through, so would anybody have a quick take on the single 6.2l eng option. I understand the later models had either twins or the 496, so I guess that would be indicative. The boat does not have a genny and would mostly be used by 2 adults.
Good, bad or stay away???
Click to expand...

I can't comment specifically on the 6.2 but my previous boat was an '08 280DA with the single 496. I boat on a lake and the 496 was a perfect option for our needs and had more than enough power. We're a family of 4 and never had any issues with power. I would overnight with my two sons and the gen was so nice for those times. I would keep it running all day to keep the cabin cool then turn it off overnight.

I am not sure how the 6.2 compares to the 496 but for a lake environment the 496 was great and the boat is very maneuverable with a single and BIII.
 
Had a real PITA incident this weekend, hoping someone can give me some guidance on vapor lock problems. I'm in Cape Coral Fla and this weekend we took our 2007 280DA over to Cabbage Key for lunch. About an hour over at 3600 RPMs on both 4.3 mercs. Got there ate lunch (took about one and half hours) and went to leave. Started both engines but both were idling rough. Pushed off from the dock because other people were waiting for the spot and idled out a short way. Went to taxi at about 1000 RPMs but neither engine would come up above idle. In fact both quit after a few seconds. Tried to start both but they both would quit after just a few seconds and neither would go above idle even with the drive disengage buttons pushed in. Thought I might have a fuel problem and was worried about discharging the batteries too much so started the generator and it ran fine. I had about 3/8's of a tank of fuel ~ 40gals so I wasn't out of fuel. Let things sit a while and after about a half hour finally got the port engine started, but starboard engine still wouldn't start. Started a long trip home on one engine (found out boat won't get up on plane with one engine even WOT). Stopped for fuel on the way back after about one hour and filled up the tank at Jug Creek Marina, it took about 55 gals and now reads just above 3/4 tank (I've never been able to get it to read full). At the gas dock tried the starboard engine again and after a couple of tries it started up and we returned home. This is about the third tank of gas I've run through the boat since January, always used 90 Oct ethanol free marina gas. Opened the hatch and felt the one fuel filter I have on the floor, filter is only about one year old and wasn't warm. The day wasn't particularly warm, about 75 degrees so I don't know why I would have a problem with vapor lock. Hope someone can share their experience with me and give me some hint about what to do if the problem occurs again. Thanks.
 
gfparker said:
Had a real PITA incident this weekend, hoping someone can give me some guidance on vapor lock problems. I'm in Cape Coral Fla and this weekend we took our 2007 280DA over to Cabbage Key for lunch. About an hour over at 3600 RPMs on both 4.3 mercs. Got there ate lunch (took about one and half hours) and went to leave. Started both engines but both were idling rough. Pushed off from the dock because other people were waiting for the spot and idled out a short way. Went to taxi at about 1000 RPMs but neither engine would come up above idle. In fact both quit after a few seconds. Tried to start both but they both would quit after just a few seconds and neither would go above idle even with the drive disengage buttons pushed in. Thought I might have a fuel problem and was worried about discharging the batteries too much so started the generator and it ran fine. I had about 3/8's of a tank of fuel ~ 40gals so I wasn't out of fuel. Let things sit a while and after about a half hour finally got the port engine started, but starboard engine still wouldn't start. Started a long trip home on one engine (found out boat won't get up on plane with one engine even WOT). Stopped for fuel on the way back after about one hour and filled up the tank at Jug Creek Marina, it took about 55 gals and now reads just above 3/4 tank (I've never been able to get it to read full). At the gas dock tried the starboard engine again and after a couple of tries it started up and we returned home. This is about the third tank of gas I've run through the boat since January, always used 90 Oct ethanol free marina gas. Opened the hatch and felt the one fuel filter I have on the floor, filter is only about one year old and wasn't warm. The day wasn't particularly warm, about 75 degrees so I don't know why I would have a problem with vapor lock. Hope someone can share their experience with me and give me some hint about what to do if the problem occurs again. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I have an 01 with 4.3 EFIs and had the same problem my first year at Norris. I found that if you run the blower all the time it helps out. Also let the engines idle for several minutes after a long run to allow the water to circulate and cool off the manifolds. The cool fuel design is not great because it allows the exhaust manifolds to heat up the water left in the system (including the cool fuel system) and after a long run at 3600 rpm that manifold is hot. A 5-10 minute idle before turning off the engines will help out. Merc sells a one way check valve to install in the system, but I didnt buy it.
 
Hi,

Has anyone got an early (e.g. circa 03-04) Knoxville built 280DA that they could share the hull number with me please? Mine was built in the Arizona factory and so Great Lakes and Marine Max refuse to quote for replacement canvas as they cant guarantee a match, but another forum member found that canvas for the Knoxville 280 fitted his Arizona built boat ok so I am prepared to take the risk and make minor adjustments if required.

I think they moved from Arizona to Knoxville around 2003, and Arizona built boats have a HIN starting SEAA vs Knoxville boats having a HIN starting SEAT.


Thanks

Anthony
 
Do not know about the early ones. But my 2011 28DA was built in Knoxville and the hull # starts with. SERT
 
aquaaddiction said:
Hi,

Has anyone got an early (e.g. circa 03-04) Knoxville built 280DA that they could share the hull number with me please? Mine was built in the Arizona factory and so Great Lakes and Marine Max refuse to quote for replacement canvas as they cant guarantee a match, but another forum member found that canvas for the Knoxville 280 fitted his Arizona built boat ok so I am prepared to take the risk and make minor adjustments if required.

I think they moved from Arizona to Knoxville around 2003, and Arizona built boats have a HIN starting SEAA vs Knoxville boats having a HIN starting SEAT.


Thanks

Anthony
Click to expand...

Contact Harvard Marine Canvas. We just ordered a complete set for our AZ built 280. The canvas was made by Great Lakes. I have compared our old with the new and they are very close. I do plan to have a canvas shop do the fit up.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Bought a 2006 280 sundancer with gen. and air. I am trying to get my dock ready to take possession of the boat.

I need to know what the shore power requirements are for the boat. Is it 30 amp 110?

any help would be greatly appreciated. I am excited to be in the cruiser world and want to get the boat to its new home.
 
I have my 280SD at my private dock and all I have is 20amp service. It works fine. I put a 30amp plug on the dock just to hook up. I run Heat/ac, bilge heater, microwave, battery charger. Never had a problem. I always leave on AC/Heat and battery charger. Not likely everything will be running at one time. ( I have never run the hot water heater at the dock )
 
Hi,

What size dinghy are you carrying onboard? I have a 2.3 that had seen better days and was thinking of putting a small grp rib on blocks mounted to the swim platform.

Biggest issue is that the platform id not very wide so anything flat on blocks would over hang and make the platform unusable unless the dinghy was moved to the water.

Just wondering what othrts do, please feel free to post pics.

Thanks
 
Need suggestions on carpeting in mid-berth. I use the mid-berth only for storage, and removed the bedding. Temporarily, last year I used a cheap Loews carpet for that area. This year I'm replacing it with something of higher quality. I'd like to get something similar to what I have in the cockpit.

I also reduced the height of the carpeted frame, as you enter the mid-berth. I call it the "knee killer". It is now level with the floor in the mid-berth.

So, I have white carpeting in the cabin. I can go with white (hopefully an exact match as the cabin) or a similar color to what's in the cockpit. Any suggestions and ideas on where I can buy it online? Thanks...
 
Danny Troy said:
Need suggestions on carpeting in mid-berth. I use the mid-berth only for storage, and removed the bedding. Temporarily, last year I used a cheap Loews carpet for that area. This year I'm replacing it with something of higher quality. I'd like to get something similar to what I have in the cockpit.

I also reduced the height of the carpeted frame, as you enter the mid-berth. I call it the "knee killer". It is now level with the floor in the mid-berth.

So, I have white carpeting in the cabin. I can go with white (hopefully an exact match as the cabin) or a similar color to what's in the cockpit. Any suggestions and ideas on where I can buy it online? Thanks...
Click to expand...

Snapincarpet.com also sells glue down carpet by the roll and they have a variety of colors. I'm sure they will have something that matches your current carpet...

http://www.snapincarpet.com/ecommerce/products.cfm?cat=40
 
Thanks, but I think I found what I need from a seller on eBay. 40oz carpet with NuWave backing, which is supposed to be better than the usual rubber backing that eventually deteriorates. Funny, no one, incuding snapincarpet.com has the white color that Sea Ray used. Probably not a great color to use in a boat. No wonder owners, including myself, have the carpet protectors installed 24/7. Similar to the ridiculous the plastic seatcovers used to protect furniture, and car seats.

Update: I just found another seller that has what looks like the exact pattern match to the cockpit carpeting. It 26 oz Berber, not 40, but it has the NuWave backing and the price is right. Anyone know if the 26 oz is ok to use. It's not like it's going to be walked on, since it's for the mid-berth, but I would like it to stay in place without gluing or snaps.
 
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