Official 280 Sundancer Thread

[Danny Troy]

I am in the process of purchasing a 206 280 sundancer 496 b3, I have it listed on my profile but do not have it yet. My question is do you like the 496 set up? I have read so many posts arguing in both directions. I would like to hear from some one with 496 b3 knowledge. I boat at The Lake Of The Ozarks. It get pretty rough for a lake do to big boat traffic.

i currently have a Ultra Custom 28 stealth with a 496 HO. It only ways 5600 pounds loaded. I get around OK with it but want to change to cruiser. This sight has been very helpful in my decision of the 280 sundancer but has me confused on power plant.

I am supposed to look at the boat in one week and have a hold on it but not sure if I am making right decision on on single engine. I know that I am going to hear the slow speed monuvering is tougher but being a long time boater I have no problems with single with X drives and b3 should be a better set up.

Welcome to CSR!

I weighed the pros and cons of the 496 when I bought mine and in my case I think the 496 was a good decision. First, like you, I boat on a lake, so no worries about not being able to get back to the dock in case of engine failure. On my lake there is always help nearby and in a pinch we can use the Sea-Tow boat that's docked on the lake. Also, I do all my mechanical work, so the more room and the less to work on in the ER the better. The 496 is a huge engine, but probably still has more room to work on it than squeezing two 4.3 engines in there. As far as power, it's all the power I need. I've taken it to about 41-42 mph, but at the price of gas I rarely get the RPMs up that high. Speaking of gas consumption, it might be a wash between the 4.3s and the 496. Both setups suck gas.

One nice thing about the 496 is that they are all closed loop cooling, so the antifreeze remains in the engine, like in a car. It makes winterizing easier, and has less deterioration of the cooling system, since salt water never gets inside the engine.

One problem you will find is finding a good freshwater 496. I wasn't able to do it, and had to settle for a nice saltwater boat. It's a nice boat, but I would have preferred a freshwater boat. Much easier to find the 4.3 freshwater boats, since most were sold with that configuration.

Good luck with your purchase!

 

[jason78]

Hi everyone! We're new here - just purchased a new 2011 280 Sea Ray Sundancer on Friday. Long wait before we're able to get it in the water in the spring. I have two questions - we're looking for a ladder to use off the front of the bow to the beach. Any recommendations? We're looking to not spend a whole lot for this coming summer, but would like something convenient.

Next, we're only used to using a porta potty, so with the different potty set-up, do I need to put any chemicals in the holding tank? If so, what and what type of toilet paper should we use?

Thank you!

Not sure about the ladder but you may get some better feedback from posting in the thread more relevant to your boat model- http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/26015-The-official-2009-270DA-2010-280DA-thread

Since you have a 2011 280DA you will likely have better luck posting there. Although not labeled as such, this thread is more geared toward the 2001-2009 280DA which is quite different from your boat. Not trying to be rude, just trying to help you get better results using the forum. It is rather confusing because between 2009 and 2010 when the new hull styles were phased in, Sea Ray re-badged all the boats to LOA so as to align with practices of other manufacturers. Spec-wise, the 260DA became 280DA, 280DA became the 310DA, and so an and so forth with some exceptions in there too.

 

[sedboatman]

Thnks Danny,

i have found a 2006 sundancer from Oklahoma. (Fresh water). I thank you for your information. It is a big decision but I agree with you on the 496 being plenty of power. I will be moving forward with the purchase this week. Again thank you for the information. I may need help in the future since this is my first cruiser, I have always been a performance boat owner. It is time to slow down and enjoy the scenery.

 

[JimFromMD]

No I haven't checked the temp. How hot is normal?

How do we know if there's air bubble or not?

There's a T branch out what seem like an inlet for garden water hose hook up. I think I can hook the water up, shut off the seacock and start the genset at home. Picture included.

How you read the meter? Is it 893 or 89.3 according to this picture?

What's some of the maintenance work I can perform myself and how often?


Thanks.

Nhi

My setup does not have that extra flushing hose "T" connection. That said, I have run the generator with a garden hose stuck into the top of the water strainer. Our power was out when the generator tech came to work on it (Murphy's law!). Since the boat is on a lift, we opened the sea strainer and used one of those hose shut off valves in line so that we could feed the strainer with enough water to keep it full as the generator sucked it out... without overflowing into the bilge.

 

[Bucit]

Has anyone with the Clarion XMD3 head unit added a wireless remote? I'm told the MF1 won't work since it operates on a 8 pin DIN and our headunit wired remotes work off a 6 pin DIN. I have the oblong looking hardwired remote near the helm but we spend alot of time in the water and would like the convenience of the wireless remote. Thanks!

 

[jason78]

Has anyone with the Clarion XMD3 head unit added a wireless remote? I'm told the MF1 won't work since it operates on a 8 pin DIN and our headunit wired remotes work off a 6 pin DIN. I have the oblong looking hardwired remote near the helm but we spend alot of time in the water and would like the convenience of the wireless remote. Thanks!

This compatibility guide should be of some help Perry. As far as I know the only two remotes that will work is the current Oval one we have stock and one generation newer. I replaced my transom remote with a CMRC2BSS a few years ago but of course not wireless.

http://www.teamclarion.com/SharedWe...9d/$FILE/Marine_Remote_Compatibilty_Chart.pdf

 

[Bucit]

Thanks Jason. I found an IRock wirelss remote and read on here somewhere that it may be compatible? Anyone ever tried this wireless remote on an older Clarion XMD3?

 

[Paul & Tara]

Re: Official 280 Sundancer Thread. Sylvania microwave alternative

I had the same problem. My son ended up giving me his Danby microwave. The depth was ok and was slightly too wide, however you can trim the width of the cabinet , no problem. The issue is the height, which is really non adjustable because of the porthole above. I ended up removing the bottom of the microwave. Attached to it is the magnetron with 4 screws and another electrical part with 1 screw. That bottom piece is about an inch thick. I also removed the turntable motor ( not required) . I transferred all of the required mount holes from the original base to a piece of 0.063 thou, aluminum plate. This made the bottom completely flat and the microwave height came in at 9.75 inches. I now just had to trim 1/2 inch from the cabinet width and the microwave slotted straight in. If you need any more info or pictures let me know. Paul

 

[ChiefScientist]

Microwave Solution for Sylvania replacement.

Guys - I just installed this one and it works great. It's more powerful than the Sylvania. This one is powerful enough to pop microwave popcorn - my main food staple if the admiral is not cooking. I purchased it at the Home Depot. The pictures are from their website.

To install, I removed the old mounting board from the Sylvania, removed the microwave feet (there is still adequate ventilltion space), and shaved about 1/8 an inch from the bottom of the top mounting wood, enlarging the whole slightly. I premeasured for some screws that I screwed directly into the microwave bottom (making sure I didn't hit anything except the sheet metal). After finally, getting it in, I really wonder if the wood shaving was necessary as the remaining gap is wider than the material I shaved.

I purchased mine in BLACK

GE 0.7 cu. ft. Countertop Microwave in White Model # JE740DRWW

Internet # 202868488

Store SKU # 623306

Store SO SKU # 623306

Overall rating
4.3 out of5.0

89%of customersrecommend this product34 of 38reviews
Rating Breakdown 39 reviews
4.3 out of5.0

 

[Paul & Tara]

Thanks for that info
It looks to be a close fit. I may buy one as a reserve, just in case.
Paul


Guys - I just installed this one and it works great. It's more powerful than the Sylvania. This one is powerful enough to pop microwave popcorn - my main food staple if the admiral is not cooking. I purchased it at the Home Depot. The pictures are from their website.

To install, I removed the old mounting board from the Sylvania, removed the microwave feet (there is still adequate ventilltion space), and shaved about 1/8 an inch from the bottom of the top mounting wood, enlarging the whole slightly. I premeasured for some screws that I screwed directly into the microwave bottom (making sure I didn't hit anything except the sheet metal). After finally, getting it in, I really wonder if the wood shaving was necessary as the remaining gap is wider than the material I shaved.

I purchased mine in BLACK

GE 0.7 cu. ft. Countertop Microwave in White Model # JE740DRWW

Internet # 202868488

Store SKU # 623306

Store SO SKU # 623306

Overall rating
4.3 out of5.0

89%of customersrecommend this product34 of 38reviews
Rating Breakdown 39 reviews
4.3 out of5.0[/QUOTE]

 

[Danny Troy]

Wow, I didn't think there was any solution, other than another Sylvania. I bought two different replacement units when I bought my boat, feeling the Sylvania wasn't worth keeping. I went so far as removing the lower plate off one of the replacement units, but chickened out when I saw was was probably the magnatron. I put it back together and re-installed the Sylvania and used it last season. It's weak, but eventually the food gets heated.... emphasis on "eventually". I'll keep this thread in mind if the Sylvania should die altogether.

 

[NautiBuoy]

Head Sink Faucet Leak

Does anyone know how to fix this issue? The sink/shower faucet leaks which means my pump run quite often. I have to use the black button on the side to ensure that it does not drip. If the button is not pushed, the faucet drips. How can I fix this leak and save my water pump? Thanks.
34 Days Until Spring!

 

[Danny Troy]

Head Sink Faucet Leak

Does anyone know how to fix this issue? The sink/shower faucet leaks which means my pump run quite often. I have to use the black button on the side to ensure that it does not drip. If the button is not pushed, the faucet drips. How can I fix this leak and save my water pump? Thanks.
34 Days Until Spring!

I don't remember the setup exactly since my boat has been out of sight and shrink wrapped for quite a while, but I'd say you just need a washer in the hot or cold side. If you're lucky it will come apart easily. If held on by a build up of corrosion due to salt air it might not be so easy.

 

[eweise]

Has anyone out there ever had a custom mattress made for the v-berth on their 2005 280? I am looking to get one and I am looking for a lead on a company that might already have the pattern. Thanks.

 

[DealerShip1985]

I purchased a 3 inch memory foam mattress and cut it to shape of the aft cabin bed. I bought a queen, and just had to trim a little of the sides. I originally was going to do in the V berth, but honestly the aft cabin is a much better sleeping set up. You can also have someone sew the sheets and tighten them up so they fit better.

 

[DealerShip1985]

Good Afternoon Boaters and Friends! A fewquestions that I could use help on...

1. Ineed to replace the mattress/cushion tops on the v-berth. Does anyone knowwhere I can find these other than a SeaRay dealer? I imagine they will beexpensive.
2. Hasanyone updated the receiver. I would like to be able to play music with myiphone wirelessly/bluetooth. Worse case scenario using an aux jack.
3.What about adding a subwoofer and another amplifier? Where did you put the ampand the subwoofer?
4. I wantto replace some of my lighting with LED lights. Can anyone reference a threadon this? What bulbs should I replace and whats the cost associated with it?
5. Myglass, front windshields (just below the eisenglass) are leaking on the inside,anyone else have this problem? Will adding more caulk be a quick efficient fix?

Thanks for any input!

 

[Danny Troy]

Has anyone installed the Bennett auto trim tab system? I'm running out of upgrades to do and am looking for things to do this coming season. I loved the system on my last boat, so I thought I'd add it to the 280. It needs to be wired into the existing harness, which was easy on my last boat, since the tab system wasn't integrated with other instrument panel devices. Will it be harder on the 280, or is it a straight forward installation?

 

[ptallen]

I switched all the bulbs topside with blue led. I have a slightly newer boat - so it maybe different but mine was very easy. Take your old bulb to any marine store and match it up with a led replacement. The cost is minimal - less than $30.

 

[Henry Boyd]

Has anyone installed the Bennett auto trim tab system? I'm running out of upgrades to do and am looking for things to do this coming season. I loved the system on my last boat, so I thought I'd add it to the 280. It needs to be wired into the existing harness, which was easy on my last boat, since the tab system wasn't integrated with other instrument panel devices. Will it be harder on the 280, or is it a straight forward installation?

I looked at it a couple of years ago. In order to work with the dash switches a connection has to be made between the tab pump and the switch wiring harness. In Benett's set up that connection is made under the dash where the ATC brain box is mounted. Because SR uses their own switches that connection is in the ER on the 280, and the ATC brain won't survive there. An extra cable is needed to plug into the wires from the EIM and then forward to the dash where the brain should be installed, and then the cable that comes with the ATC, is run to the back into the tab pump. I'm working from memory and to/from of the cables may be backwards, but I'm sure you get the idea. Bennett made a cable for me but I never got around to installing the ATC as it was the year we needed the top Gimbal pin replaced and the new boat hardware budget went for that.

The fellow I talked to at Bennet was Thomas (its actually mr., he goes by his last name) he may be able to help you. I'm still on the fence about installing the ATC, or I'd offer my cable. Let me know how it goes.

Henry

 

[Danny Troy]

I looked at it a couple of years ago. In order to work with the dash switches a connection has to be made between the tab pump and the switch wiring harness. In Benett's set up that connection is made under the dash where the ATC brain box is mounted. Because SR uses their own switches that connection is in the ER on the 280, and the ATC brain won't survive there. An extra cable is needed to plug into the wires from the EIM and then forward to the dash where the brain should be installed, and then the cable that comes with the ATC, is run to the back into the tab pump. I'm working from memory and to/from of the cables may be backwards, but I'm sure you get the idea. Bennett made a cable for me but I never got around to installing the ATC as it was the year we needed the top Gimbal pin replaced and the new boat hardware budget went for that.

The fellow I talked to at Bennet was Thomas (its actually mr., he goes by his last name) he may be able to help you. I'm still on the fence about installing the ATC, or I'd offer my cable. Let me know how it goes.

Henry

Thanks for that info. The saying "nothing is ever easy" certainly applies here. So the problem I had anticipated isn't an issue, but it's still not a straigh-forward installation. I thought I'd post the question here before calling Bennett. Now I have a heads up on the procedure. I feel it's a nice upgrade, that isn't expensive if you do the installation yourself. On my last boat it literally was a "set and forget it" setup. It even remembered the settings over the winter storage. I'll post here when I finish the installation, but it won't be for a couple of months, depending on when the lake thaws. This year might not be until July!