Official 280 Sundancer Thread

jason78 said:
I do have the screw covers as well on the top of the door. They are just hard to see in that picture because the covers are the same color.
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hi iam new to this thread i just had my 2005 sundancer 280 shipped from the us to the phil my problem now is i can not open the engine compartment the battery is dead is there other way to open said hatch
 
Re: Air conditioner strainer

jason78 said:
The books were not updated properly throughout the years. The book shows the Perko strainers that have the wing nuts. What we have are Groco strainers. The disc with the 3 holes in it unscrews and there is a basket inside. I use the "proper" tool which is a spanner wrench. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...reId=11151&catalogId=10001&partNumber=4493367

Others have been able to use channel locks as well. I think you are on the right track checking that strainer first.

Jason
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hi jason iam new to this thread and my boat was just delivered from the USA to the Phil, the problem now is i can not open the engine compartment because the battery is dead, how do i open that engine hatch on a dead battery?
 
Re: Air conditioner strainer

santa rosa said:
hi jason iam new to this thread and my boat was just delivered from the USA to the Phil, the problem now is i can not open the engine compartment because the battery is dead, how do i open that engine hatch on a dead battery?
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Are you sure yours is power? Maybe it was an option but so far I've never seen one that has it. If you don't have it grab the latch, turn it, and lift hard.
 
If it is a factory install, there is a circular access port in the hatch. Remove it and you will have access to the attachment poit of the hydraulic ram. There is a Clevis pin held by a small cotter pin. Remove the cotter and clevis to disconnect the ram. Then you can lift the hatch in the manner described.
 
They unhooked the batteries for transit. You can manually release the arm or you can hook up a 12v power source to the eim or a 12v socket and then use the power lift.


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so i have asked this before... not much response. has anyone raised the captains chair up? i am 5'11 and when the bolster is not used i have to sit on 2 throw cushions to feel comfortable at the helm. anyone else experience this and have recommendations?

thanks!
 
scootdogg said:
so i have asked this before... not much response. has anyone raised the captains chair up? i am 5'11 and when the bolster is not used i have to sit on 2 throw cushions to feel comfortable at the helm. anyone else experience this and have recommendations?

thanks!
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I have not seen anything about that but you could contact the manufacturer of the chair, Garelick, and see if they can provide you with a longer seat post. My experience with them on other issues has been excellent. http://www.garelick.com/
 
scootdogg said:
so i have asked this before... not much response. has anyone raised the captains chair up? i am 5'11 and when the bolster is not used i have to sit on 2 throw cushions to feel comfortable at the helm. anyone else experience this and have recommendations?
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It's adjustable. See post #3093 in this thread (can't get the link to paste...).
 
I added two or three inches to the height of the chair, using PVC. I wish you had asked this a week ago, before it was shrink wrapped. I would have snapped a photo for you. I don't remember exactly how I did it, but I do remember it wasn't a very difficult job. It is a little less secure, since less of the post is in the mount, but for my lake boating it's been fine. Used it the entire last season without issue. BTW, you can't see the PVC or any sign that the seat was modified by looking at it.
 
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Can someone tell me if there is a drain or a way to drain my hot water heater on my 2005 280? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
There should be a drain valve a few inches off the bottom of the tank. It looks like a outdoor hose faucet (at least on mine)
 
As your looking at the unit there is a grey knob. If you turn it it should drain. Not sure if it's the right or only way but that's what I did. But I also filled it with antifreeze for the winter.
 
There might also be a vent lever. If you don't depress/pull that lever the water will never fully drain out. I opened the spigot on mine to drain and thought I had gotten all the water out. I later remembered that vent. I couldn't believe how much more water flowed out after depressing that lever. If you don't have that vent you could probably loosen a hose going into the heater, which would do the same thing.
 
Thanks for the input, I am headed to the boat today and hope to accomplish that.
 
Searched the thread and couldn't find an answer to this: what size dingy fits well on a 280 swim platform? I have a Zodiac Zoom 310s and a hurley davit system. The dingy is too long and possible to wide at 10.5' by 5' beam. My question is what are others using for a dink that fits well.
 
Thanks for sharing. Found that thread before. I bought the dingy before the big boat. I have a honda 9.9 on it so it's fairly heavy and tough to disassemble. What I am considering doing is buying the Zodiac zoom 260 which is 8'6" long and a slighter narrower beam at 5' even. I would like to find a dink with a 4-4.5' beam that still overs a solid floor....it's a tough order to fill. The other advantage to buying a smaller zoom is my existing engine will fit it. To make it real easy maybe I should just buy a Sea Ray 350!!
 
Hello everyone! I am looking to sell my aft curtain that was on my 2004 280 Sundancer. It is navy blue with the rear isinglass. I purchased it new from Sunbrella in 2013. It was on the boat for about 2 months, then I sold the boat. It is NOT the camper back. It is the slant curtain that attaches to the canvass on the rear of the spoiler. I will entertain any reasonable offer as I am trying to clean out my basement. It is essentially brand new.
Thanks,
Mark
 
Kurt said:
Just want to thank the members here who have contributed excellent advice. I pulled into the dock last night and I could not maintain idle in my starboard engine. Smartcraft read "check engine". I could restart with manual throttle but I could not find one issue in any of the gauges. All fluid levels were good and no issues visualized below deck. I remembered reading a few years back on issues related to the IAC in 5.0 mercs with the 280. I replaced the IAC this afternoon and problem solved, I now carry a spare. Thanks again
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IAC for Merc MPI is same as 2002 Ford Windstar 3.8, verified with NAPA jobber. @$50, no difference auto/marine, and yes Merc used a Ford part on a GM engine. Cheap to keep a spare or just go to any auto parts store if yours goes. Replacing the $1 muffler annually is the cheapest insurance though.
 
I have a small oil leak on the port engine. I believe it is coming from the quick oil drain tube under the engine. How do you get under there to get to the oil pan to tighten it or how is that tube fastened to the pan?
 
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