Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Eweise, not sure what kind of waters you anchor in, but that Kodiak is big time lacking in lateral strength. Have bent mine multiple times,sure wouldn't want to spend that kind of $ for it.
 
Hi.
On my '01 280SD do the gas shocks on the engine hatch hold up the hatch or just assist in opening? I would think that they are to actually hold it up, but mine don't. Before I go out to buy new ones I just want to double check. Also I found that people go to auto parts stores to pick them up. Do these need to be a "heavy duty" type or just any shocks, same size work?
Thanks.


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Mine hold the hatch up. I would suggest heavy duty. The hatch is very heavy.
 
I went through this last year at this time. You will not find a suitable shock in auto parts stores. I bought these last year and they work well. The lower the last number the harder it will be to lift the hatch, so don't go with the 90's. The 120 is the way to go. Here's an Attwood description from Boatstore.com
Attwood Sl34-120-5 Ni-Slide 8X18 E-20" C-12" S-8" P-120
Sku: 1142320
They were 41.25 for the pair delivered.
You may want to shop around, since their ordering process is a bit shaky. Maybe even on eBay?
 
Last week I opened the cabin ddor and found this piece to the far left. It;s on the upper track. The door sems to open and close with ease. Is this part of the roller assembly for the top track or more like a stop? I'm hoping I can apply some glue to it and slide it into place with the other half.


Door track.jpg
 
I had a similar piece fall off the lower track early in the season. According to others, its the beginning of the end of the door mechanism. After the piece worked its way out (it was jamming the door initially) the door moved freely again. Another thread recommended keeping the tracks lubes with this spray lube:
http://www.amazon.com/Tri-Flow-Supe...1382400467&sr=8-3&keywords=bicycle+spray+lube
I used it a few times during the season and the door opens and closes with one finger. Hopefully I dodged the 2000.00 bullet. You can give that lube a try, and keep your fingers crossed. Of course, use it on top and bottom tracks.
 
You should be able to replace the outermost top slide with the door on. It's a bit tricky, but it can be done.


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mpmiller said:
You should be able to replace the outermost top slide with the door on. It's a bit tricky, but it can be done.


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Click to expand...

This is correct. The slide (or truck, as it's called) closest to the port side is easy to replace with the door in place. The starboard truck is very difficult to replace with door i place and requires removing the port side truck first. The starboard truck can't be replaced with the port truck in place and requires removing the helm.
 
Bucit said:
Last week I opened the cabin ddor and found this piece to the far left. It;s on the upper track. The door sems to open and close with ease. Is this part of the roller assembly for the top track or more like a stop? I'm hoping I can apply some glue to it and slide it into place with the other half.
Click to expand...

Just for reference, I contacted Sea Ray about this in 2011 and just looked at their email. At the time I was told they could still order the "Slide Block" (white block in your picture). It comes from Teak Isle manufacturing and is SR part number 1964925 and he told me this is the same for upper and lower tracks. I contacted them for reference purposes to assist on something here so have not yet run in to this personally and can't say first hand. Others here have reported they were able to replace upper and lower blocks without removing the helm which is commonly thought to be the only way to repair the door. Best of luck.
 
Thanks Jason. I'll get one ordered.

Mpmiller and Tonka - can you elaborate on how this would be done? It doesn't look like there is much room to work with on either the upper or lower track.
 
Bucit said:
Thanks Jason. I'll get one ordered.

Mpmiller and Tonka - can you elaborate on how this would be done? It doesn't look like there is much room to work with on either the upper or lower track.
Click to expand...

This is a two man job, ideally. For the port side, upper track need to insert a screw into the slot on the top of the door before sliding the new truck into place. The screw will stop the truck from going too far. Hold the door steady and slide the truck into place using a coat hanger or something similar until it stops at the screw. Remove the screw and carefully continue sliding the truck in place until the screw holes line up. Insert and tight the screw.

You need to do something similar for the starboard side but it's much harder. You may be able to slide the truck by accessing the track from the door under the helm if you have really long arms, you are a contortionist or you have a very skinny and very smart year old that can get in there.
 
Tonka Boater said:
This is a two man job, ideally. For the port side, upper track need to insert a screw into the slot on the top of the door before sliding the new truck into place. The screw will stop the truck from going too far. Hold the door steady and slide the truck into place using a coat hanger or something similar until it stops at the screw. Remove the screw and carefully continue sliding the truck in place until the screw holes line up. Insert and tight the screw.

You need to do something similar for the starboard side but it's much harder. You may be able to slide the truck by accessing the track from the door under the helm if you have really long arms, you are a contortionist or you have a very skinny and very smart year old that can get in there.
Click to expand...

I wonder if removing the compass would allow any access to the top Starboard side of the track through that hole? I know Hampton said that is how you change the top Starboard rollers on the sliding door used on the 300DA-Up when they break.
 
MM doesn't know this trick. They emailed and said the cap and windshield need to be partially removed to lift the door up to replace. He said they just did one and had 15+ hours in it. Crazy!
 
I haven't tried the starboard side yet, but like the idea of removing the compass (let me know if it provides access). For the port side, I would try Tonka's screw trick. I attached a string to mine to retrieve it if it went to far and that didn't work. Luckily we could apply pressure when closing the door and lift the door when opening it to move the new piece around when aligning. Only took about twenty minutes, but I think we lucked out. Now I am worried about the bottom glides.


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I need to replace the masthead light on the radar arch. It has a Perko 1181 and I am wondering if anyone has found or installed a LED replacement light that fitts the same footprint of the Perko light.
 
Danny Troy said:
I went through this last year at this time. You will not find a suitable shock in auto parts stores. I bought these last year and they work well. The lower the last number the harder it will be to lift the hatch, so don't go with the 90's. The 120 is the way to go. Here's an Attwood description from Boatstore.com
Attwood Sl34-120-5 Ni-Slide 8X18 E-20" C-12" S-8" P-120
Sku: 1142320
They were 41.25 for the pair delivered.
You may want to shop around, since their ordering process is a bit shaky. Maybe even on eBay?
Click to expand...

Are the old connectors fit on these ?
 
eweise said:
I need to replace the masthead light on the radar arch. It has a Perko 1181 and I am wondering if anyone has found or installed a LED replacement light that fitts the same footprint of the Perko light.
Click to expand...

I used the Attwood LED Masthead light and have been pleased with it. The screw holes line up however I decided to place mine a bit farther forward so the wire would bend under the fixture properly. I paid someone to gel coat the old holes. Depending on how your Perko was drilled you may be fine. I have replaced (3) Perko Masthead lights with the Attwood LED and only mine had to be moved slightly.

http://www.amazon.com/Attwood-LED-Anchor-Masthead-Light/dp/B003EWQNOS
 
280DA said:
Are the old connectors fit on these ?
Click to expand...

Yes, that are an exact replacement for the pistons that are on there now. Get ready to prop up the hatch with some sort of a strong rod, while you work on switching the pistons. The hatch is very heavy. From what I remember, once you get one on the other side is easier. Have fun!
 
Thanks Jason, that looks like it would be a greaat choice...
 
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