Official 280 Sundancer Thread

mpmiller said:
On mine, the on/off switch is for my starboard engine and generator. The 1/2/both/off switch is for my 12v house and port engine. I have them set to both and on when running. When on the hook I turn the on/off to off (unless I am running my generator) and the house to 1 or 2 to control my usage.

I just disconnected one of the house batteries to identify which battery was 1 and which was two.
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Thanks that makes sense. Same as mine. Which one ended up being your number 1 battery down there? I know there are the two hooked up in parallel. Was is the one closest to port side( right next to wall)
 
Searay495,

What are you asking for the aft curtain?

Thanks,
 
TheBigb said:
Thanks that makes sense. Same as mine. Which one ended up being your number 1 battery down there? I know there are the two hooked up in parallel. Was is the one closest to port side( right next to wall)
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I forget. I tagged the batteries and know they were reversed last year (I removed them over the winter), so I need to do the test again. I run one house battery down almost every weekend, so I may just multimeter it before I recharge and take a picture this time. I know now to mark the mounts/or cables, not the batteries which are moveable.
 
mpmiller said:
I forget. I tagged the batteries and know they were reversed last year (I removed them over the winter), so I need to do the test again. I run one house battery down almost every weekend, so I may just multimeter it before I recharge and take a picture this time. I know now to mark the mounts/or cables, not the batteries which are moveable.
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Yea that's a good move. I'll need to get a meter on them and figure it out. Thanks for the input.
 
One more question for everyone. My starboard engine smartcraft display reads "engine fault" and flashes sometimes with no audible alarm. Then it will go away. This seems to happen when I am cruising above 3500 rpm and make a turn. No codes come up to be pulled. No performance issues either.
 
TheBigb said:
Hey everyone. Question on the batteries. I have a generator so I have 3 batteries but I can't figure how which battery is number 1 and 2. Or how really the switches work.

So far I can see that just turning the main switch on I can light up the starboard engine but nothing else. If I turn that switch off and just put the selector to 1 or 2 it will only light the port engine. Then of course if I put the single selector on and then to either 1 or 2 or both I can light both engines. Right now when I put just the switch to 1 that battery is having an issue. But which battery in the compartment is battery 1?
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I turn both switches up to the on position and leave them on. They both stay on until i get back to the dock. No matter how long I am gone. Never had a problem. The gen and starboard battery shouldnt have anything drawing on it so just leave them all on. I turn both back to the off position when leaving the boat plugged in at the dock.
 
Winterizing question, is there any harm running Sea Foam through the engine cruising around??


Also, any harm adding a little bleach to the head to help kill the bacteria prior to getting the head pumped and adding RV Antifreeze?
 
It depends on the amount of bleach. A small amount should not harm anything. Too much might have some impact on the rubber parts.

I use an ounce of clear bleach in the water tank with very fill up. Water smells and taste like c__p, but we don't drink, or cook, with tank water. This also seems to keep the toilet bowl clean. I got the ratio 1 ounce to 30 gallons from the FEMA website that recommends this for purifying suspect water.

Henry

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Bleach is overkill, head down to your local RV dealer and pick up some sanitizer. Way more user friendly
 
Marinemax told me today not to use Seafoam, said it actually works too good. Said to use a marine based stabilizer instead. Guessing Seafoam might affect lubrication to the pistons a bit - if I had to guess.
 
trdehmer said:
Marinemax told me today not to use Seafoam, said it actually works too good. Said to use a marine based stabilizer instead. Guessing Seafoam might affect lubrication to the pistons a bit - if I had to guess.
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Seafoam is a great fuel stabilizer, and the best carbon build-up remover I have ever used on cars, bikes and the boat.
Only thing is, it works best at WOT which is rarely the case with boats.


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trdehmer said:
Marinemax told me today not to use Seafoam, said it actually works too good. Said to use a marine based stabilizer instead. Guessing Seafoam might affect lubrication to the pistons a bit - if I had to guess.
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Sea Foam goes in everything I own. I just pulled the original plugs in my 03 Ford F-150 5.4 (129K). I heard horror stories about breaking off seized carbon coated plugs. Not one broke, not a bit of carbon and everyone I pulled looked like they only had 10K miles on them. It didn't even need to be done.
 
Also, any harm adding a little bleach to the head to help kill the bacteria prior to getting the head pumped and adding RV Antifreeze?[/QUOTE]
No reason to add bleach to the head. the bacteria is desirable as that is what breaks down the waste.
 
Henry Boyd said:
It depends on the amount of bleach. A small amount should not harm anything. Too much might have some impact on the rubber parts.

I use an ounce of clear bleach in the water tank with very fill up. Water smells and taste like c__p, but we don't drink, or cook, with tank water. This also seems to keep the toilet bowl clean. I got the ratio 1 ounce to 30 gallons from the FEMA website that recommends this for purifying suspect water.

Henry

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Click to expand...

one ounce per 30 gal is a lot of bleach. it would be around 10 times more than used at water plants to disinfect . FEMA uses such a high dose due to concern over fecal contaminated water which would not be our case in a boat water system.I would cut the dose by at least 5 times. You can pick up a cheap chlorine tester at a pool supply house. maintain a chlorine level out of the faucets of 1 to 2 mg/L and you will be good to go.
 
So I just purchased a trailer for my '04 280. The idea being I can bring it home and do the winterizing, minor maintenance, cleaning and storage myself and save some cash over the outrageous marina prices. My question is this, does anyone have any tips, tricks or insights to winterizing and storing the boat over the winter here in Maine? Any checklists or such out there? Thanks in advance. Mike
 
Attempting to change the genset impeller, Kohler 5E, in my recently acquired 2004 280 Sundancer. The process seems straight forward but the bolts on the impeller plate don't have clearance to be removed because of the waste water tank. Am I correct that either the genset or waste tank must be moved and if so, which is the easiest to move?
Thanks for any help.
 
Gravel, 3 out of the 4 will come out. The other one (if I remember correctly is on the bottom right, closest to the bow) is the one that cannot be removed. Take the other 3 out (7/16" wrench) and loosen the other one. The cover will hang there but won't be in your way. If it's easier you can remove the 3 and totoally unscrew the last one and remove the whole pump housing so it's easier to change the impeller. Not a bad job, probably takes 10-15 minutes max.
 
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