Official 280 Sundancer Thread

elevy said:
Big B, Check your ignition coil, I had a similar problem and it turned out the coil on my starboard engine had rusted and swelled a bit throwing current into the ECM wiring harness making the Smartcraft go nuts and the Starboard engine would loose power and cut out intermittantly. Replaced the coil and life was good again.

Hope it helps
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Hey,

I will check those but both starters are brand new for this season...
 
Kurt said:
They told me the same thing and I had to change an impellor on both engines and gen right away. There is a post that mentions spark. It is if it is not fuel it is weak spark, only thing is weak spark usually results in a miss.
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I'll pull a couple plugs and see if they are corroded. Maybe that is throwing a fault. The generator is unreal... They just put a new impeller in because I kept getting ERR 62. I just ran it today since the new impeller, 20 minutes into running I get ERR 62 again and it stalls out. It also smelled like it was burning rubber...
 
BigB, I assume you have some warranty left from MM? The ECM needs to be read with a scanner, or you could keep guessing at it. I would let MM know you are having issues
A complete tune up and compression check wouldn't be a bad idea. 2 new starters is definitely a red flag, high water in bilge? Katrina boat? High salt water in ER can be an ongoing nitemare
 
jason78 said:
Agreed on the breaker advice. If that does not work another common problem is the windlass control box located directly under the windlass in the top of the locker. They are exposed to moisture in the locker and can fail. Make sure both your battery banks are ON. I had a similar problem one time when I decided to let more anchor line out after I had been sitting, I had already turned off [I think] the Battery switch on the right. The solenoid clicked but no motor till I turned both switches to ON. That was early in my boating days. I now just leave it on all the time.
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I wanted to thank everyone for the input!! Thankfully it was only the breaker. It deffinitely was not in a user friendly place...as decribed by mpmiller Port Forward engine compartment. I had to crawl across the battery bank to get to it. be sure to bring a fglash light with you. Here is a pic of the breaker. I should have taken a pic before I reset it but the reset toggle will hang below the breaker with the word "Reset" on it. View attachment 31074
 
DVD frustration

I have a 07 Sundancer 280. The KEC DVD player went out, trying to replace it. All aftermarket DVD players are smaller in dimension, but more importantly I am not sure I am getting power to the TV and DVD unit (once I connected the wires, no power to unit). Ideas?

Uroman
 
TheBigb said:
I'll pull a couple plugs and see if they are corroded. Maybe that is throwing a fault. The generator is unreal... They just put a new impeller in because I kept getting ERR 62. I just ran it today since the new impeller, 20 minutes into running I get ERR 62 again and it stalls out. It also smelled like it was burning rubber...
Click to expand...
Hold on professor, it definitely sounds like you need to run diagnostics.
 
scoflaw said:
BigB, I assume you have some warranty left from MM? The ECM needs to be read with a scanner, or you could keep guessing at it. I would let MM know you are having issues
A complete tune up and compression check wouldn't be a bad idea. 2 new starters is definitely a red flag, high water in bilge? Katrina boat? High salt water in ER can be an ongoing nitemare
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Yes I do, and I also have a 3 year extended Brunswick warranty. I let them know, but they take forever....
 
Just an update. I wound up replacing the stock plug wires with the MSD 8.5mm super-conductor wires. I haven't had a chance to try them out yet, but they appear to be of very high quality, especially compared to the stock wires that were on there. I bought the universal kit and saved 178.00. Total cost from summitracing.com was 122.00. You have to install the coil end plug yourself. They give you a crimping tool, that works ok. The nice part is you can size the wires exactly, so no dangling wires, as with the original set.

I also replaced the waste tank vent filter with a DIY version. I used 2" PVC with screw off adapters at either end. Definitely a better filter than the store bought stock filter. I opened the original filter and can confirm I have a lot more carbon in the new one. Total cost was about $30.00, but I have enough carbon left over for another refilling. I told my wife to go near the vent while I flush to test it, but she declined!!!
 
Ordered the head/bowl rubber gasket kit and 2 sets of duckbills from Northeast sanitation. Replaced the rubber gaskets and cleaned the clam shell. Odor problem solved. I did have a little trouble with the plastic retainers they were pretty warped. I may get a new set so I don't fall off the Jon. Saving the duckbills and the Big Orange filter for the future. The only thing I can guess is the bad gaskets caused the holding tank to constantly suck air. The bomb went off after it had set for a while.
 
Anyone had the shower sump box out to verify if there is a drain hole to the ER? If not and it's a sealed area what could be the water source for the center compartment that does have a drain hole to the ER?
 
scoflaw said:
Anyone had the shower sump box out to verify if there is a drain hole to the ER? If not and it's a sealed area what could be the water source for the center compartment that does have a drain hole to the ER?
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The shower sump box area is sealed. There is no exit to the aft end of the boat.

Water outside the box can be caused by:
Leaky port hole glass , tighten the dogs
Leaky porthole assembly, remove and re caulk
Leaky bow rail mounting points
Worst case is a leak in the joint between the topside and the hull

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Thanks for that Henry, any comment on the second part of my question, thinking my water tank may be leaking
 
Another reason there can be water outside the shower sump pump box is a failed sump pump in the box. Check the pump first.
 
Anyone running Simrek drive showers. I having a little overflow from my port side reservoir. Both drives were pulled and serviced this spring. I am not having to add a lot, maybe 1/3 of a quart total for both since service. No signs of water.
 
mpmiller, We installed one of the A3120's today and turned it on. Light did not work, we swapped wiring to confirm correct polarity, still nothing. We then tried the second light I had purchased and same thing, nothing. During each test the existing arch light which had not been removed continued to work without issue. We put a meter to the new light and had 13V. As the documentation shows rating 9V - 30V. I'm going to contact manufacturer tomorrow but any ideas?? I would be suprised if both new lights are bad but anything is possible I suppose.
 
Anyone one with any ideas????
I have the 5kva genny on board and it runs sweet as but for it cutting out (as it is supposed to) when the circulating water reaches too high a tempreture.
The genny is fully serviced it appears to have good water flow through the heat exchanger and the thrmostst is working fine but still the temp rises and it cuts out.
I have sent the heat exchanger off to be chemically flushed hoping this will be the culprit but thats the last thing I can think of to do I'm at the point now of having to swap it out for a replacement one if I cant find the solution. ANyone have any ideas??
 
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