Official 280 Sundancer Thread

NautiBuoy said:
Thanks for all of the tips ... once I cleared the error code everything was perfect. NOW another question ....

I have spent countless hours researching how to flush my engines after cruising. I currently boat in saltwater and the boat is equipped with a Coldwater Products Company quick connect flush kit. In the locker I have two sockets labeled port and starboard (clearly for the engines). In the engine compartment, I can see the hoses running from those sockets to the bottom of engines. I have been simply attaching the hose to the male part of the CPC and then putting it in the female socket in the locker and running the water. Am I doing this right? Should the engines be running? I am doing this without the engines running. Advise? Does anyone have the same system?
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I don't but I would like to se some pictures of the set up. I was always told you couldn;t have a flush system with the Alpha drives? Since the impeller is in the outdrive I would say NOT running the engines is the right way.
 
Russ, thanks for the explanation of the differences in the boats. It's great having access to people that have first hand experience with these boats. Walking into a dealership, you never know what is true and what is just a sales pitch.

I'm about to make a chart with pluses and minuses of each boat, and it's true, the 290 has a lot going for it. The particular 290 I saw advertised, a 1994, has a lot going for it. Other than the walk-thru windshield and the extremely ugly seat vinyl (which can be re-done), it's pretty darn nice. No extended swim platform, but the price is low enough to make that addition, and not break the bank.
 
Happy to help, Danny. But the '94 290 you mention has little or nothing in common to the 1999-2001 (or 2002, I can't remember when than generation ended) generation I spoke of. I have no experience with the '94 generation, other than to know it is worlds apart from the generation I spoke of.

Russ
 
russg said:
Happy to help, Danny. But the '94 290 you mention has little or nothing in common to the 1999-2001 (or 2002, I can't remember when than generation ended) generation I spoke of. I have no experience with the '94 generation, other than to know it is worlds apart from the generation I spoke of.

Russ
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Yes, checking the spec sheets on the archives site, I see the 94 listed at 7700 lbs, and the 99 at 10,500 lbs. Wow, that is one heck of a difference.
 
Just curious if anyone has the answer/suggestion for this. Sorry to be a pain.
I have seen a few people mention they have done this, I am just curious what I have to buy. I want to swap out all of my cockpit bulbs with led lights. Also, Recently my exhaust manifold cracked (not rotted)and filled my engine with salt water. My mechanic said that usually these dry joint manifolds and risers will last a lot longer than this and he left the decision up to me as to replace them or ride it out and hope it doesn't happen again. I have a 2003 280da with twin 4.3l mpi's and was hoping to get 5 more years out of them...what do you think? Thanks

-Bill
 
Goodlife, Buy new manifolds now, or buy new manifolds and engines later. Do you know why it cracked? To me, replacing one manifold would be like only replacing the brakes on one siide of the car. Maybe that is just me.

Good luck!
 
TheGoodLife said:
Just curious if anyone has the answer/suggestion for this. Sorry to be a pain.
I have seen a few people mention they have done this, I am just curious what I have to buy. I want to swap out all of my cockpit bulbs with led lights. Also, Recently my exhaust manifold cracked (not rotted)and filled my engine with salt water. My mechanic said that usually these dry joint manifolds and risers will last a lot longer than this and he left the decision up to me as to replace them or ride it out and hope it doesn't happen again. I have a 2003 280da with twin 4.3l mpi's and was hoping to get 5 more years out of them...what do you think? Thanks

-Bill
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Bill this is the part of life that is not so good. I did my risers and manifolds last winter. They didn't look too bad and I could have gotten three more years out of them. Therefore I think it is reasonable to get ten years out of a set in our area. Since next year is your tenth year you might want to replace them now. Especially since you already had a water ingestion problem. Keep in mind replacing an engine is very expensive.
 
Thanks guys looks like I will have a winter project. I just though dry joint = a longer life span on the manifolds and risers.
 
jasontbrant said:
Anyone have an idea of the cost to replace risers and manifolds on a 280 with Alpha I's?
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Check and see if you have the dry joint exhaust. If so replacement will be much more expensive ($3500) for both motors. Mercury still holds the patent on this set up so you have to buy their product. I replaced mine this year and got Hi-Tek one piece SS manifolds. So far so good! Price was about the same as cast iron but I'm in salt so I thought I would try the much much lighter ans SS manifold set up.
 
Does anyone know which J&L speaker is an exact replacement for the Clarion 6.5" speaker? I'm talking about the m amd MX series. Thanks!
 
As some of you may have followed over the last several months, I am possibly selling my 2004 280. I have a signed Purchase Agreement with a potential buyer subject to the survey and sea trail. He had two gentlemen out on the boat (one for the engines/generator and one for hull/general inspection) who both conducted sea trails. The results are in and the buyer said one battery needs to be replaced, there is a small (four inch) section of fiberglass along the rub rail with a crack needing attention, new risers and manifolds and a little bit of moisture in the bow deck. I consider the battery, rub rail crack and risers and manifolds to be routine maitenance which can be completed in the off season. The bow deck moisture he said would involve taking out the section and replacing. To make a long story short, he has asked for an additional $5,400 price reduction. What are all of your thoughts...it is an eight year old USED boat after all.
 
I would have to say it depends on what the Purchase Agreement price is. If you are getting top dollar then there may be room for you to move down. Otherwise keep in mind risers and manifold for the parts alone cost $3,200. What is the moisture issue and what needs to be done to repair it? Without knowing the details and if you are looking to get out now, then I would tell the buyer you will hive him $2,000 of the Purchase Agreement price.
 
Bucit said:
Check and see if you have the dry joint exhaust. If so replacement will be much more expensive ($3500) for both motors. Mercury still holds the patent on this set up so you have to buy their product. I replaced mine this year and got Hi-Tek one piece SS manifolds. So far so good! Price was about the same as cast iron but I'm in salt so I thought I would try the much much lighter ans SS manifold set up.
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not true - mallory makes them now and they are quite a bit cheaper
 
Have the work quoted by someone you trust. If it comes in less than that is your baseline. Also, make sure the moisture readings are accurate. Sounds like they are assuming a worse case scenario for the repair.
 
I am looking to trailer my 04 280. I am interested in what types/capacity trailers people use. I know the dry weight is around 8600 lbs. There is a guy at my marina selling a 2006 10000lb venture that looks a bit rough. Is the 10000lbs enough or should i go up to the 12000? Also any idea what a good price for a 6 year old trailer would be? he is asking 4500, a new one isnt much more than that. Thanks.
 
pfd109 said:
I am looking to trailer my 04 280. I am interested in what types/capacity trailers people use. I know the dry weight is around 8600 lbs. There is a guy at my marina selling a 2006 10000lb venture that looks a bit rough. Is the 10000lbs enough or should i go up to the 12000? Also any idea what a good price for a 6 year old trailer would be? he is asking 4500, a new one isnt much more than that. Thanks.
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The 8600 lb figure is based on the single engine without options such as genny, AC, etc. Loaded with fuei, water, equipment, junk, etc. you will be well over 10,000.
 
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