Official 280 Sundancer Thread

anyone use their iPad on the boat? i have been carrying my laptop back and forth and thinking about a more permanent solution. I was wondering if anyone uses any mounts around the helm or is it just too small an area to work with...
 
wvsundancer said:
May I ask how you made the holes bigger? What did you use? did you have a template? The reason for all the questions is that I am going to keep my boat for at least three more years and stereo upgrade is on the list for next project.
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The speakers come with a template for the opening and screw holes. A jigsaw is the way to go. I went with the "classic" speaker covers rather than the "sport". They fit in with the 280 styling and sound awesome.
 
I love the Sea Ray Company, and the great service that they usually supply, however I too had a problem with the windless not working after a day on the hook with my family in Fort Myers Florida. After checking the fuses and wiring as well as voltages, I gave up and called my service company MarineMax East, Inc 14070 McGregor Blvd Fort Myers Florida, to come to my dock and tell me what was wrong with the windless. The Tech that came out to service my boat was great, but told me that I needed a new windless control box for the anchor well, and went ahead and ordered it for me. After reading this post, I went into the engine room and found the lever style Hi Amp circuit breaker in the ER, port side and in front of the batteries, and pressed the reset button. As you guessed it, the windless came to life and is now working fine. Hmmmm, makes you wonder if the tech missed it, or just wanted me to have the added expense of a return call, the $350.00 part, and the labor to fix the problem, that was never really there.
 
My guess is that the tech was clueless. That is why I use these 2 old guys that worked for MM for 20 years. They were let go when MM closed when the market crashed in 08. I am doing everything I can to learn my boat so I don't need them.
 
Seacurity Crew said:
I used the windless to get the anchor out on the bottom, thats what tripped it. This Forum saved me money and aggravation.
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Normally, that should not have tripped that breaker. You'd have to snag the anchor really hard, to the point of not getting it out to overload the system enough to trip the big breaker. If this tripped and you then were able to raise the anchor by hand, then the windlass wasn't overloaded. And if it wasn't an overload, then something in the windlass power circuit is causing a short.

Henry
 
Henry Boyd said:
Normally, that should not have tripped that breaker. You'd have to snag the anchor really hard, to the point of not getting it out to overload the system enough to trip the big breaker. If this tripped and you then were able to raise the anchor by hand, then the windlass wasn't overloaded. And if it wasn't an overload, then something in the windlass power circuit is causing a short.

Henry
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To not overloading the windlass while you anchored upstream, it's good to put in gear (at idle speed) and then out to neutral until the windlass heaves easily, if it isn't failed as Henry mentioned.
 
Bucit said:
Here's a couple of pictures on my new cockpit table. Now I just need to find a way to store it in the ER.
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Looks great! Do you happen to know the dimensions of that table? I'm stopping by wood dealer soon to pick up some Teak, Ipe or Mahogany for some wood flooring in my 280DA and am also going to pick up enough extra to build a cockpit table at some point this season. I was going to do rectangular also, and like the dimensions of your setup.
 
Gunn said:
Looks great! Do you happen to know the dimensions of that table? I'm stopping by wood dealer soon to pick up some Teak, Ipe or Mahogany for some wood flooring in my 280DA and am also going to pick up enough extra to build a cockpit table at some point this season. I was going to do rectangular also, and like the dimensions of your setup.
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Since I've been sick I haven't been out to the baot much. I will get measurments tonight and post them tomorow.
 
Windlass breaker tripping Omg this keeps happening to us! Does anyone have a pic of this switch? We were down in the ER and couldn't find this box, lever, or switch. We did the docking of shame this evening with our chain wrapped around our bow cleats looking like frickin ruhtards! We didn't even know what a windlass was 16 Months ago! This is our Learner boat. Well be trading it back in in pieces most likely! Oh wise salty dogs please help us!
 
Omg this keeps happening to us! Does anyone have a pic of this switch? We were down in the ER and couldn't find this box, lever lever, or switch. We did the docking of shame this evening with our chain wrapped around our bow cleats looking like frickin ruhtards! We didn't even know what a windlass was 16 Months ago! This is our Learner boat. Well be trading it back in in pieces most likely! Oh wise salty dogs please help us!
 
dfwlaw said:
Omg this keeps happening to us! Does anyone have a pic of this switch? We were down in the ER and couldn't find this box, lever lever, or switch. We did the docking of shame this evening with our chain wrapped around our bow cleats looking like frickin ruhtards! We didn't even know what a windlass was 16 Months ago! This is our Learner boat. Well be trading it back in in pieces most likely! Oh wise salty dogs please help us!
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dfwlaw,

First off there are a number of possible causes for why anchors go down and won't go up. There are some pictures below that will help describe the parts to you, but your best resource is to call IMTRA (imtra.com) and speak to their customer service people. Its not an 800 number, but they will help you diagnose what may be causing the go down not come up situation. Most common reasons are either the motor, or control box. Both are fairly expensive, and like most electrical parts non returnable. You can have down, but no up, either because one of the terminals on the motor has melted, or the contact points on the up side of the control box are burned. This is a real PITA job because the the location and lack of access.

Fuses & circuit breakers. There are circuit breakers for the low current circuit (helm switches) located on the aft EIM located in engine compartment on port side . These are push in breakers. Then there is the high amp fuse also located in the engine compartment near the EIM. There is also a solenoid there as well. Finally there is an ATC fuse located in the anchor locker. On our 280 it was attached to a common mounting bolt beside the control box, it will be in the anchor locker but not necessarily beside the control box. ALso on our 280 this stuff was located on the underside of the deck (ceiling of locker?).

P1010864.jpg



P1010863.jpg



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Un-labeled arrow is pointing at windlass solenoid.

P1010787_2.jpg
 
Thank you Henry!That is so unbelievably helpful! Our windlass got to end of chain and stopped going down. Then it wouldn't budge. I'm saving your pics on the iPad!Thank you for you reply! I have another annoying problem mm has been unable to solve and I'm about to pull my hair out. My bow back cushion is wet as well as carpet at bottom of stairs on and off. Mm left a pm note this week that it was dry so they assume it's fixed? I can take pics of where the cushion is wet. It makes no sense how water got into that cushion, maybe aliens have placed pods in there and they are getting ready to hatch. Thanks again!Sherry
 
Wet carpet at the bottom of the cabin steps may be from water in the bilge under the steps. Pull up the trash can. If there is water outside of the shower sump box that is where it is coming from. The carpet goes under the steps. If it was left too long and there is water in the bilge it will wick the water. Source of water in this location can be overflowing sump box because of dead pump. If you don't use the shower this still can be the cause because the ac also drains into the sump box as well. It can also be loose hose fittings. Finally the port hole glass may be loose. And allowing rain to get in. The dogs that lock the ports have little plastic screws on the contact side. These create pressure for the glass against the gasket.

Will follow up with more later have to get to a meeting
 
Thanks Henry!Well yes there was water at bottom of trash can and it was wet vac'd as well as the pump was replaced by mm. Thank goodness we bought the warranty! (which ive learned doesn't cover labor) Following that replacement we had new wetness and there was water again. I bought a wet vac to keep on boat, mm charged me to wetvac , that was stupid of me to pay for that. Mm wanted to send 2 guys @ $110/hr each one to spray outside with hose while other guy looked for leaks inside. I'm not THAT gullible! Lol. We did this ourselves and found nothing. The most perplexing is that cushion in the bow. Where the heck is that water coming from and how does it just get in the bottom of a cushion that is touching nothing else to wick from? I'll get back out there and take pics. You will probably agree....ALIENS!Thanks again Henry! Sorry you have to work today! I know you'd rather be on the water!Sherry
 
What cushion are you talking about. The cushion on the port side in the cockpit, or one of the vee berth cushions?

Back to the under the stairs, The sump box may be cracked as well. If it got forgotten when the boat was winterized, it might have frozen and cracked. Easiest way to test this is to run water from the head sink faucet onto the head floor so that it drains down the floor drain. The box will fill up with water and then you will hear the pump in the sump box cycle. If water is present outside the box you have a leaking sump box, or hose connection.

Water can also get into the cabin from the bow rail mounting bolts. In the cabin headliner there are small (about 3" diameter) rounds covered with headliner material. The bow rail mounting bolts are under those. The covers just pull out. They are held on with plastic Christmas tree fasteners. Pull a couple of covers off and inspect. If there is any signs of water then the bedding for the bow rail needs redoing.

Henry
 
Both of my EIM hatch doors are leaking. The gasket appears to be the problem, anyone dealt with this issue?
 
scoflaw said:
Both of my EIM hatch doors are leaking. The gasket appears to be the problem, anyone dealt with this issue?
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???? There's only one EIM hatch door on my 280, and as you can see from the pictures, the other EIM is in the ER. What doors are you talking about?

Henry
 
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