Official 280 Sundancer Thread

saopm said:
Not sure abou the plug wire, but how were your old risers and manifolds?
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The manifolds lloked decent (from what I could see) but the risers were pretty bad. The cast iron part where the hose connects were shot on both risers and one was about 1/2 the way clogged. I haven't finished the port motor yet let alone get to the starboard side. I'll be back at it this week and hopefully get the port side finished and them move on to the other one.
 
Thanks Jason, I will be heading out tomorrow to go spend more money.
 
started the genny this weekend. no water coming from the exhaust. shut it down and checked the strainer and it was free and clear. i am assuming it is the impeller. does anyone have the part number and good place to order from online? also... this will be my first impeller change on this boat. any issues or things i need to be aware of before the start?
 
scootdogg said:
started the genny this weekend. no water coming from the exhaust. shut it down and checked the strainer and it was free and clear. i am assuming it is the impeller. does anyone have the part number and good place to order from online? also... this will be my first impeller change on this boat. any issues or things i need to be aware of before the start?
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For Kohler its 359978. Just internet search that number and you'll find places to buy it.
 
scootdogg said:
started the genny this weekend. no water coming from the exhaust. shut it down and checked the strainer and it was free and clear. i am assuming it is the impeller. does anyone have the part number and good place to order from online? also... this will be my first impeller change on this boat. any issues or things i need to be aware of before the start?
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Sherwood 8000K available at West Marine. The store near me stocks them so i would assume LKN store does too.
 
I re-inspected the spark plug boot yesterday and cannot see anything wrong with it. No cuts, slices or tears but it still shoots out a spark about 2"s. IS there something else causing this or is the boot damaged and I just can't see it?
 
scootdogg said:
this will be my first impeller change on this boat. any issues or things i need to be aware of before the start?
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Scott,
I did mine for the first time last season on a raftup when the impeller shredded. After being almost done and working to get the new impeller back in the housing with the fins going in the right direction, someone recommended taking a small zip tie and using it near the outer edge of the impeller to compress the fins and get them all lined up before sliding it into the impeller housing. Once its started in and all lined up, then clip the zip tie and push the impeller the rest of the way in. I havent gotten to try it, but it sounds like it would be a lot easier than my first attempt.

James
 
USe a little soap on the impeller (which helps slide it in and makes bubbles out the exhaust once installed), slide it into place, tighten the 4 screws and bump the starter once or twice. The impeller will seat itself in the right direction.
 
Bucit said:
USe a little soap on the impeller (which helps slide it in and makes bubbles out the exhaust once installed), slide it into place, tighten the 4 screws and bump the starter once or twice. The impeller will seat itself in the right direction.
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I think Jason recommended the zip tie, and that is a great idea. Last year was my first time replacing it and it was a bear for me. Granted, once I got it all lined up and squeezed into shape, it popped right into place. But it took me forever to get that far, with a lot of swearing and cussing going on. The shaft is a little offset, so that makes it difficult to simply push into place. When I used soap, the damn thing would be too slippery to hold in place! Sea Ray could have given us more room to change the impeller (between fits of anger, I had plenty of time to determine a better placement for all things around the generator).

But like I said, once lined up, it went right in. I took did a couple of quick blips on the start button with the cover off to get it to spin into shape.

I wonder how often (hours) they should be replaced, before they shred?

Tom
 
I end up replacing mine twice a year. We have seagrass that if I'm not paying attention will clog my strainer and run close to dry. If I'm close by I hear the change in exhaust and will shut it down then clean out the strainer but every now and then I'm not right next to or on the boat and the genny will shut itself off. If this happens twice ina season I will repalce just to be safe. I never had an issue getting the impeller in and the soap thing always worked good for me. As I'm still trying to install my new SS manifolds changing the impeller seems like nothing. What a fun time I've been having!
 
I wonder how often (hours) they should be replaced, before they shred?
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Mine went last year when I started the Gen to winterize it. mine did not shred ....it spun where the rubber is attached to the sleeve.
BTW -I just got done...I replaced -all my boots,hoses,gimbal bearings,upper shift shaft seals,shift cables ,water shutters,manifolds and raisers,trim motor brackets (both where shot -used the ss from ebay) spark plugs,cap,rotors,wires,water pump impellers,trim and trim limit sensors,and I painted the bottom last weekend....I am almost ready for the water-I need to adjust the shift cables and trim sensors and change the oil and the gen impeller and new zincs.. ...Its been a long winter!!!!
Ken
 
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Gunn said:
I think Jason recommended the zip tie, and that is a great idea.
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Must have been someone else. I use the same method as Bucit described; soap it up, insert and spin till it slides on the notched shaft, bump starter, push in again, seat gasket and replace cover. I have done a ton of them this way and it seems to work very well. I believe the ty-wrap method is only needed on the engine seawater impellers.



Gunn said:
I wonder how often (hours) they should be replaced, before they shred?

Tom
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No telling really, I have seen friend's impellers go as few as 10-20 hours and as much as nearly 100 before going bad. Many people here change them yearly as a part of PM which probably is a good idea. Changing them before the break apart reduces the risk of other problems associated with vane parts getting caught in the exchanger.
 
jason78 said:
Changing them before the break apart reduces the risk of other problems associated with vane parts getting caught in the exchanger.
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+1 When they break apart you need to pull hoses off the heat exchanger and start back flushing in hopes of getting the broken vanes out. Not always the easiet thing to do. Much better to change yearly/semi-yearly.
 
Boot is probably damaged, I'd just replace the wire Perry. When I was a kid my dad used a trick when he was sea trial a used Searay, the seller knew nothing about boats so when it started backfiring my dad had me go to store for wd-40, he knew what was wrong. Sprayed the wires with it, boat ran good. He was able to talk the price down for a dealership priced tune-up, even though he knew he would do it himself!!! I learned alot from him and I do sure miss him:(
 
Sparks flyin are are sure sign your wires are toast. Too much resistence, the current can't get there, from here. Check your resistence with an ohm meter.
 
Anyone notice or had an issue with reverse polarity with the cabin and bow lights? Bought some cheap LED's ,which are polarity sensitive, The ones with the 1156 base wouldn't light. Finally realized that the base on the bulb is the hot side. Be nice to switch a couple of wires in the control panel. Anyone?
 
Does anyone know where the Sirus radio box is in most 280's? I bought my boat with a tricked out stereo and can't find the Sirus converter box that is between the radio and the satellite antenna.
 
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