Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Off topic, looks like they got cheap with the cockpit cover from TonkaBoaters pic. Every cockpit cover I've ever had extended down to cover the windshield. This a new design?

This is good and bad...

Bad because it lets more water in. Good because it doesn't black out the cockpit if I am inside with the cover on.

What bothers me more is the the rear access doesn't get covered. You can see that I have the newer door that's not solid.....so a rainy, south wind blows straight into the cockpit. Plus it doesn't keep the critters out....not that it has been a problem.

img_5728.jpg


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New to the site and hope to gain and share information.

Looking for a solution to the V berth tilt and sliding during the night. Have looked into memory foam and custom cutting to provide more cushion and reduce the angle. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

Brian Hunt
Amnesia II
 
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This past weekend I had a friendly debate with a bridge tender about the height of my boat. He seemed to think we should proceed under with 10 feet of clearance. I disagreed. I somehow doubt that he would have been willing to pay for replacement of my radar, light, etc. :wow: so I patiently waited for the next opening.

I looked in the 280 documentation, which has lots of dimensions, but there was nothing showing height from waterline to top of the arch. Any of you know this dimension?
 
This past weekend I had a friendly debate with a bridge tender about the height of my boat. He seemed to think we should proceed under with 10 feet of clearance. I disagreed. I somehow doubt that he would have been willing to pay for replacement of my radar, light, etc. :wow: so I patiently waited for the next opening.

I looked in the 280 documentation, which has lots of dimensions, but there was nothing showing height from waterline to top of the arch. Any of you know this dimension?

I measured my clearance from the waterline to the top of the Glomex at 9'7". I took a docking pole and held it horizontal from the top of the Glomex and looped a line over the end. I lowered the line until it hit the water and measured it on the dock.

I could be off by an inch or two so I stay clear of anything less than 10'.

.
 
Thanks, Tonka. Given my radar and the potential for a ripple under the bridge, I am sticking with my 12' clearance minimum :thumbsup:
 
Re: V berth tilt

The 280 is a 2006 model and has twin 5.0 engines.
We stay on the boat quite often and have had an issue with the v berth being on just a slight angle toward the back since it was new.
I have assumed the twin engines add just enough weight along with fuel, water and gear that this may add the slight angle to the cushions. It is a constant battle through the night to keep your head on the pillow.
Short of wearing velcro pajamas I was hoping someone else had this experience.
This past week I placed a foam noodle under the cushions on the low end. 3" in one place is too much and makes a low place in the middle.
Had read several post on here in regard to memory foam and cutting it to fit v berths but nothing in regard to leveling the v-berth.

Brian Hunt
Amnesia II
Charleston WV
 
New to the site and hope to gain and share information.

Looking for a solution to the V berth tilt and sliding during the night. Have looked into memory foam and custom cutting to provide more cushion and reduce the angle. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

Brian Hunt
Amnesia II

My wife had the same issue. I did not notice. I put a 4 ft level on the bed and it was 1/4" out of level. I corrected it by placing a piece of plywood under the mattress at the foot end of the bed. Stuck the level back on it and perfectly level. More important my wife was happy. Not sure if this will help on the 280 because the 290 is set up different with the V berth converting into a couch. I think the 280 has a filler cushion doesn't it?
 
Re: V berth tilt

The 280 is a 2006 model and has twin 5.0 engines.
We stay on the boat quite often and have had an issue with the v berth being on just a slight angle toward the back since it was new.
I have assumed the twin engines add just enough weight along with fuel, water and gear that this may add the slight angle to the cushions. It is a constant battle through the night to keep your head on the pillow.
Short of wearing velcro pajamas I was hoping someone else had this experience.
This past week I placed a foam noodle under the cushions on the low end. 3" in one place is too much and makes a low place in the middle.
Had read several post on here in regard to memory foam and cutting it to fit v berths but nothing in regard to leveling the v-berth.

Brian Hunt
Amnesia II
Charleston WV

just flip around so your head is against the divider.
 
This is good and bad...

Bad because it lets more water in. Good because it doesn't black out the cockpit if I am inside with the cover on.

What bothers me more is the the rear access doesn't get covered. You can see that I have the newer door that's not solid.....so a rainy, south wind blows straight into the cockpit. Plus it doesn't keep the critters out....not that it has been a problem.

img_5728.jpg


.
We use a towel and wrap it around the door top, securing it and then tucking it under the carpet. Sure stops critters.
 
Tonka,,

I would think the door is easily replaced with one with better clearance.

Bport,

I assume you are talking about the fellow at the end of the Blynman Canal at 133. He's given me the same crap and we are 9"-6" above the water without radar. The rules do require you to lower antennas and lights, if possible, to achieve a lower clearance requirement. Use Tonka's method to measure to the top of the radar domw and stick with that.

Henry
 
That door has a funky hinge on it, can't really replace it without doing some gelcoat repair. Then you'll have to drill a bunch of holes for the piano hinge to put in the old style door. Another option would be to have a canvas shop sew on a little door flap that will cover the door entrance and snap at the bottom.
 
Another option would be to have a canvas shop sew on a little door flap that will cover the door entrance and snap at the bottom.

I'm leaning in this direction. My neighbor owns a canvas shop and I'm talking to him about making a new cover all together that covers also covers all of the hinges for bimini poles and will be tighter around the arch. We're mid-way through the season so this will be a fall/winter project if I do it.

.
 
I new to this site and have been reading all of the old posts which have been very informative. I currently own a 2005 240 SD but I'm making the move up to a 280 Sundancer. I could use some advice on a boat I'n considering. Its a 2006 blue gelcoat 280 Dancer with 25 hours. Engines are the 5.0's with the BIII's. A/C, 5kw generator, closed water cooling system, 13" TV, GPS, spotlight, windlass, extended passport warranty through 2011 and engines through 2012. The dealer will change & oil filters, repaint the bottom and deliver three hours. I can get this boat for $81K.
What do you guyd think?
I look forward to being an active member on this board.
Thanks,
Jim
 
Why does it have so few hours for a 3 year old boat? The price is good if it's in good shape. It's going to be tight in the ER, blue hull is tough to keep clean, etc. But if it's the boat you want, then it's a labor of love.
 
Why does it have so few hours for a 3 year old boat? The price is good if it's in good shape. It's going to be tight in the ER, blue hull is tough to keep clean, etc. But if it's the boat you want, then it's a labor of love.

The prior owner was intimidated about docking it so he rarely left the marina. He traded the boat for a smaller one and its been for sale with the dealer on a trailer for 10 months. The condition is very good except it needs a good cleaning. Thanks.
 
Has anyone, other than me, had a problem with the front bunk table falling out underneath the cushion when you're sleeping? The little, dinking pieces of wood only hold the very edge of the table, I see on the new 280's the little wood pieces stick out a lot farther to hold the table. I'm looking for ideas on how to secure the table better. Thanks.
 

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