Official 280 Sundancer Thread

[HorizonSeeker401]

Just got a 2006 SD280 and what a cool boat this is. I'm a bit intimidated coming from a 19' open bow.
Lots to learn but no owners manual. I've searched in here and haven't found anything and the links at SeaRay don't work.
Anyone have any hints/tips?
Thanks gang!

 

[HawkX66]

Just got a 2006 SD280 and what a cool boat this is. I'm a bit intimidated coming from a 19' open bow.
Lots to learn but no owners manual. I've searched in here and haven't found anything and the links at SeaRay don't work.
Anyone have any hints/tips?
Thanks gang!

Get acquainted with the search feature. Not being a wise guy... It's very helpful. My 290DA was new to me last year and this site has been priceless.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Just got a 2006 SD280 and what a cool boat this is. I'm a bit intimidated coming from a 19' open bow.
Lots to learn but no owners manual. I've searched in here and haven't found anything and the links at SeaRay don't work.
Anyone have any hints/tips?
Thanks gang!

You'll get there. Search and google for info on twin boat handling... but the best way is to get out there and do it for real. Practice, practice, practice.

The links at Sea Ray work - maybe it's something on your end?

 

[Half Off]

Was wondering if anyone knows details about troubleshooting a failure of my -down- sterndrive trim to not work on the starboard side engine? I ran through the Mercruiser troubleshooting steps to see if it was the solenoid on the trim pump, but the down solenoid works fine when I jump it at the pump. It just won't work when I push forward on the trim switch on the throttle control.

Could this be an issue inside the throttle control, at the switch? Anyone had this issue before? Or are there any other locations in the wiring harness I can access and try to jump to figure out where the problem might be. It's somewhere between solenoid and trim button, but...not sure where to start!

Tom

I had the same problems a few years back on both my trim switches not trimming up. My mechanic traced the wiring and said I had power up to the firewall from the batteries but not all the way to the switches. He ended up running a new hot wire to the switches from the buss in the helm instead of wasting his time and my money to track down the fault. Both switches have worked fine every since.

 

[RobinK]

Tried searching but maybe did it wrong, didn't find an answer to this.

I'm about to bypass the left controlpanel to get the trim tabs working, without replacing the entire panel or EIM module.
I want to put two carling switches in the free slots next to the engine start switch (I have one engine). Does anyone know which Carling switch that would fit? Any, maybe?

EDIT: Measured the hole and checked Carling manual, it's the right hole so any Carling switch will fit, just choose the hood of personal liking.

 

[Stroh]

Just got a 2006 SD280 and what a cool boat this is. I'm a bit intimidated coming from a 19' open bow.
Lots to learn but no owners manual. I've searched in here and haven't found anything and the links at SeaRay don't work.
Anyone have any hints/tips?
Thanks gang!

2006_280 Sundancer_280 Sundancer Owners Manual Pdf.pdf (searayweb.com)

 

[Fill Ess]

Tried searching but maybe did it wrong, didn't find an answer to this.

I'm about to bypass the left controlpanel to get the trim tabs working, without replacing the entire panel or EIM module.
I want to put two carling switches in the free slots next to the engine start switch (I have one engine). Does anyone know which Carling switch that would fit? Any, maybe?

EDIT: Measured the hole and checked Carling manual, it's the right hole so any Carling switch will fit, just choose the hood of personal liking.

Is that possible to do? The stbd side panel only has a 4 wire harness. I haven't looked behind the port side panel but on the schematic for the 300, it shows two more 4-wire plugs for the 2 ignition switches plus emergency start. In any case I think the back of the panel is sealed sop how would you install Carling switches?

 

[Henry Boyd]

Tried searching but maybe did it wrong, didn't find an answer to this.

I'm about to bypass the left controlpanel to get the trim tabs working, without replacing the entire panel or EIM module.
I want to put two carling switches in the free slots next to the engine start switch (I have one engine). Does anyone know which Carling switch that would fit? Any, maybe?
View attachment 107184

EDIT: Measured the hole and checked Carling manual, it's the right hole so any Carling switch will fit, just choose the hood of personal liking.

Robin,
To bypass the switchpad you will have to run wires from the helm to the back of the boat where the trim tab pump is connected to the EIM. I'd recommend using the Bennett switch block and its wiring harness to do this because it would be completely plug & play. Contact their customer service for the part numbers. They might also have individual switches that would fit in the panel.

 

[Henry Boyd]

Is that possible to do? The stbd side panel only has a 4 wire harness. I haven't looked behind the port side panel but on the schematic for the 300, it shows two more 4-wire plugs for the 2 ignition switches plus emergency start. In any case I think the back of the panel is sealed sop how would you install Carling switches?

View attachment 107504

Phil,
The switchpads work in conjunction with the EIMs. The EIM contains a multiplexer that essentially converts the wires connecting the two devices into a data network. For Robin to make this work, the tab pump needs to be disconnected at the EIM and wires run from the white four wire plug on the pump forward to the helm and connected to ground, fusing and power.

EDIT: I should add that my Bennett system has two white Bennett control boxes wired in between the tab pump and the Bennett tab control buttons. I don’t recall these being on my 280. The current boat does have auto trim control and tab position indicators and the boxes may be for that. In any event, this is another reason to contact Bennett.

 

[RobinK]

Is that possible to do? The stbd side panel only has a 4 wire harness. I haven't looked behind the port side panel but on the schematic for the 300, it shows two more 4-wire plugs for the 2 ignition switches plus emergency start. In any case I think the back of the panel is sealed sop how would you install Carling switches?

View attachment 107504

Oh shoot, I haven't had the time to look behind the panel yet so I didn't know it was sealed like that. It's probably doable some way, but yeah, that kinda puts a stop to that idea.

 

[RobinK]

Robin,
To bypass the switchpad you will have to run wires from the helm to the back of the boat where the trim tab pump is connected to the EIM. I'd recommend using the Bennett switch block and its wiring harness to do this because it would be completely plug & play. Contact their customer service for the part numbers. They might also have individual switches that would fit in the panel.

That's what I was thinking, just run new wires from the back to the helm, but since the panel seems sealed somehow, the idea stranded as of now. I'm going to clean all the connectors and try to look inside both the panel and the EIM-box to see if there are any corroded surfaces or connections, on the curcuitboards or connectors on them. If I can't fix it, I'll find someone who can repair the circuits. It'll be cheaper than buying new ones or the 4 000$ conversion kit from Flounder Pounder

 

[gsmallwood]

Is the area behind the microwave open to access any wiring back there? Trying to run a wire from Cabin to cockpit and have it stuck on something behind the microwave. Just asking before i take the microwave out. 2003 280 DA

 

[Lazy Daze]

Robin, I believe (and Henry, maybe you can confirm if you happen to recall?) that your port side switch panel is sort of a "hybrid". Meaning, those three swtiches are normal switches and wired normally. It's strange, though, that you have a panel for a twin engine boat - usually there are blank/blockoff plates installed for the two positions that aren't used. I would imagine someone replaced the original one somewhere along the line and either that's all they could find or they found an inexpensive, used one.

But, Henry is right - once you get on the "other side" of the electronic components involved in the switching, the rest of the trim tab wiring is normal.

Robin, did you go through steps to verify that the switchpad is the culprit? Just would hate to see you go through all this trouble if the pad buttons weren't the issue.

 

[Henry Boyd]

Robin, I believe (and Henry, maybe you can confirm if you happen to recal?) that your port side switch panel is sort of a "hybrid". Meaning, those three swtiches are normal switches and wired normally. It's strange, though, that you have a panel for a twin engine boat - usually there are blank/blockoff plates installed for the two positions that aren't used. I would imagine someone replaced the original one somewhere along the line and either that's all they could find or they found an inexpensive, used one.

But, Henry is right - once you get on the "other side" of the electronic components involved in the switching, the rest of the trim tab wiring is normal.

Robin, did you go through steps to verify that the switchpad is the culprit? Just would hate to see you go through all this trouble if the pad buttons weren't the issue.

On ours there was one switch for the engine and blanks for the other spaces. I eventually used the spaces for switches for the nav electronics. I was also curious as to the two engine switches.

 

[trdehmer]

Wiring question/issue….

When I turn on my navigation lights my gauges (wired radio remote, trim, speed, rpm, depth finder, compass, fuel, etc.) no longer light up? Navigation lights still work, and switch pad led's light up and even dim. But, none of the gauges light up - at first they were intermittent, now they don’t work at all.

I took a multimeter to the blue wire (which I believe ties all the gauges together to light them up) that was attached to the Clarion wired remote and the negative/ground black wire and it wasn’t getting 12V for power (at one point it was, but intermittent). Then after they didn’t work at all I put the multimeter to the function to have it “beep” if two wires touched. The blue wire which should be positive 12v power (when the navigation lights power up to power up the gauges) and the ground wire “beep” on the multimeter when touching them. So, something is wrong and those wires should have never been touched previously. Any thoughts where to start?? Not sure if its the button switchpad, EIM's, or otherwise? Nothing appears to be tripped on either of the EIM's.

 

[RobinK]

Robin, I believe (and Henry, maybe you can confirm if you happen to recall?) that your port side switch panel is sort of a "hybrid". Meaning, those three swtiches are normal switches and wired normally. It's strange, though, that you have a panel for a twin engine boat - usually there are blank/blockoff plates installed for the two positions that aren't used. I would imagine someone replaced the original one somewhere along the line and either that's all they could find or they found an inexpensive, used one.

But, Henry is right - once you get on the "other side" of the electronic components involved in the switching, the rest of the trim tab wiring is normal.

Robin, did you go through steps to verify that the switchpad is the culprit? Just would hate to see you go through all this trouble if the pad buttons weren't the issue.

I'm sorry for the confusion, i should have said that i borrowed the pictrue from google. I onöy have 1 engine button

 

[Lazy Daze]

Wiring question/issue….

When I turn on my navigation lights my gauges (wired radio remote, trim, speed, rpm, depth finder, compass, fuel, etc.) no longer light up? Navigation lights still work, and switch pad led's light up and even dim. But, none of the gauges light up - at first they were intermittent, now they don’t work at all.

I took a multimeter to the blue wire (which I believe ties all the gauges together to light them up) that was attached to the Clarion wired remote and the negative/ground black wire and it wasn’t getting 12V for power (at one point it was, but intermittent). Then after they didn’t work at all I put the multimeter to the function to have it “beep” if two wires touched. The blue wire which should be positive 12v power (when the navigation lights power up to power up the gauges) and the ground wire “beep” on the multimeter when touching them. So, something is wrong and those wires should have never been touched previously. Any thoughts where to start?? Not sure if its the button switchpad, EIM's, or otherwise? Nothing appears to be tripped on either of the EIM's.

The "beep" function... that's checking resistance (in Ohms). However, did you still have the nav switch turned on? Checking resistance is done without power - having +V could damage the DMM, or pop it's internal fuse. I wonder if the beeping you heard was a warning?

If not, then I would look closely at all the wires on the backside of the gauges - follow the blue wire as it daisy chains from one to another - same with the ground.

Check for +V leaving the Nav switch... If you have +V there, then keep checking at each gauge it goes to. If you don't have +V, check for +V coming into the switch (which you likely will have since you said the Nav lights work). If there's +V coming in, but not going out, the switch is bad. Verify all your grounds, as well.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I'm sorry for the confusion, i should have said that i borrowed the pictrue from google. I onöy have 1 engine button

No worries... just make sure you give it back when you're done

 

[trdehmer]

I believe the "beep" function on my multimeter is simply to tell a person that there is a break in a wire for example - like touching one end of the wire with the positive end of the multimeter and the other with the negative end of the multimeter. If there was a break in the wire, it wouldn't beep. If there is no break in the wire, it would beep. It would also tell a person if a ground wire and positive wire were crossed somewhere I think? Thats how I've always used it in the past at least. I would get the "beep" with the Nav lights on or off.

The "beep" function... that's checking resistance (in Ohms). However, did you still have the nav switch turned on? Checking resistance is done without power - having +V could damage the DMM, or pop it's internal fuse. I wonder if the beeping you heard was a warning?

If not, then I would look closely at all the wires on the backside of the gauges - follow the blue wire as it daisy chains from one to another - same with the ground.

Check for +V leaving the Nav switch... If you have +V there, then keep checking at each gauge it goes to. If you don't have +V, check for +V coming into the switch (which you likely will have since you said the Nav lights work). If there's +V coming in, but not going out, the switch is bad. Verify all your grounds, as well.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I believe the "beep" function on my multimeter is simply to tell a person that there is a break in a wire for example - like touching one end of the wire with the positive end of the multimeter and the other with the negative end of the multimeter. If there was a break in the wire, it wouldn't beep. If there is no break in the wire, it would beep. It would also tell a person if a ground wire and positive wire were crossed somewhere I think? Thats how I've always used it in the past at least. I would get the "beep" with the Nav lights on or off.

I still think you may be using the meter wrong or misinterputing the beeping? Yes, DMM's can beep to show continuity in addition to showing 0 Ohms (or minimal). But a beep when touching + to - is different. With the Nav lights off, do you still have +V on that wire?

If you, indeed, had a +12V shorting to a -12V, you'd have much more obvious issues going on.