Official 280 Sundancer Thread

[Seldom Right]

Yes, it was heavy on the front, spent two hours with boat on and off adjusting trailer. Stopped adjusting after I could not get the winch post back another 8", as this is where the side rails intersect the tongue rail. So its forward 8" too far. Maybe I can swing the winch post around 180 degrees? Anyone ever do this? No problem towing it, just the size and distance, this thing is just big. It's 45 miles from ramp to my driveway, nearly all of it interstate. We got a lot of looks, and a thumbs up.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Light bulb question: 2001 280DA. There is a screw-in light bulb fixture in a flush mount light directly above the cooktop in the galley. The light has a 12v DC bulb and what appears to be a 120v AC bulb. My 120v AC bulb is missing.

Does anyone have a bulb type/number so I can buy another one? Preferably a LED bulb because I just converted all the interior light bulbs to LED (except that one).

Thanks.

Check my memory for me (it should be listed in your owner's manual)... I believe it is an E14 base and about 20 or 25 watts. For what it's worth, it's not as big of a deal to have this one as an LED since power consumption isn't an issue for this lightbulb (it's an AC bulb... not using your batteries). And, generally, they last a long, long time.

 

[DWABoat]

Yes, it was heavy on the front, spent two hours with boat on and off adjusting trailer. Stopped adjusting after I could not get the winch post back another 8", as this is where the side rails intersect the tongue rail. So its forward 8" too far. Maybe I can swing the winch post around 180 degrees? Anyone ever do this? No problem towing it, just the size and distance, this thing is just big. It's 45 miles from ramp to my driveway, nearly all of it interstate. We got a lot of looks, and a thumbs up.

Best I can tell from the pics, it looks like you have enough bunker board to bring the boat back a little more if you can solve the winch post issue. Is that correct?

Also, did you put a strap directly from the bow eye down to the base of the winch post? I can’t see clearly from the pic. With all that weight up front you certainly need one.

I have my 280 on a trailer also, but it is a different make. Your tongue is longer than mine. I can’t help you much on the placement of the bow eye.

The only issues I can think of the way you are would be imbalance of the weight load on the axles and tires and controlling for sway by distributing the weight to the trailer axles instead of the rear hitch of the truck. But you say it pulls fine like it is, so sway is apparently not an issue.

Can you get a local welding shop to modify your existing post? Easy job for a good fabricator.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I thought that getting a trailer was a good idea. Second thoughts after I pulled it out.

You're truck looks level. But the front of the trailer is too low - too much weight on the front axle of the trailer. Raise the ball mount so the trailer frame is level and see what that does.

Can you slide the winch post aft of where the trailer frame meets? Or stradle them? You may need to move the axles. Measure the tongue weight - shoot for about 5% to 7%.

 

[Bob G]

Check my memory for me (it should be listed in your owner's manual)... I believe it is an E14 base and about 20 or 25 watts. For what it's worth, it's not as big of a deal to have this one as an LED since power consumption isn't an issue for this lightbulb (it's an AC bulb... not using your batteries). And, generally, they last a long, long time.

I had the same problem, the 120v bulb is an odd ball. I replaced the holder with an e17 base from Amazon & a 40watt LED appliance bulb from Home depot, a vast improvement in the light with no heat.

 

[Bob G]

Hi guys I'm new to the site with my 2003 280 Sundancer.
My wife needs our helm seat higher so l purchased a Garelick adjustable base which is the same make as the original.
My question is has anyone removed the holding down screws, l cant see any access below in the mid cabin to get to the backing nuts & don’t want to remove the screws until l know what they are screwed into.
Any help appreciated,
Bob G

 

[Half Off]

Light bulb question: 2001 280DA. There is a screw-in light bulb fixture in a flush mount light directly above the cooktop in the galley. The light has a 12v DC bulb and what appears to be a 120v AC bulb. My 120v AC bulb is missing.

Does anyone have a bulb type/number so I can buy another one? Preferably a LED bulb because I just converted all the interior light bulbs to LED (except that one).

Thanks.

This post may help...
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/official-280-sundancer-thread.10064/page-260#post-920439

 

[Henry Boyd]

Hi guys I'm new to the site with my 2003 280 Sundancer.
My wife needs our helm seat higher so l purchased a Garelick adjustable base which is the same make as the original.
My question is has anyone removed the holding down screws, l cant see any access below in the mid cabin to get to the backing nuts & don’t want to remove the screws until l know what they are screwed into.
Any help appreciated,
Bob G

On our 02 there was a partial circular panel in the ceiling of the mid berth. It was held in with plastic “Christmas tree” fittings (a stem with discs whose diameters decreased towards the tip). If you don’t have that, then you might have to remove entire ceiling. But if memory serves, the sides have to come out first.

I do know that on ours the helm seat base was a nut and bolt connection with the nuts located on the underside. I suppose you could try and remove one of the bolts to see if the nut is captured. But that would be kind of a last resort experiment.

 

[DWABoat]

Those of you with a 2001 or close year 280 DA, please look at your wiring for the pump in your shower sump. I am talking about the one under the steps going into the galley.

Do the wires for your sump pump come out from bulkhead above your pump then down to the pump?

In mine, there is a small hole in the bulkhead with the wires running down to the pump. The wall separates the fuel tank space from the galley steps space. My sump pump wires come out of that hole. The PO had to run new pump wires. I am wondering if he used the same route or created a new path for the wiring. Can’t contact him anymore.

 

[DWABoat]

This post may help...
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/official-280-sundancer-thread.10064/page-260#post-920439

Great read! Thanks.

 

[Bob G]

On our 02 there was a partial circular panel in the ceiling of the mid berth. It was held in with plastic “Christmas tree” fittings (a stem with discs whose diameters decreased towards the tip). If you don’t have that, then you might have to remove entire ceiling. But if memory serves, the sides have to come out first.

I do know that on ours the helm seat base was a nut and bolt connection with the nuts located on the underside. I suppose you could try and remove one of the bolts to see if the nut is captured. But that would be kind of a last resort experiment.

 

[Bob G]

Thank you Henry,
That’s good information, l have a large odd shaped panel on the ceiling but cant see what’s holding it in place but hopefully it has the same fittings as yours, Sea Ray do such a beautiful job of finishing that you hate to do any damage removing it.
I was pretty certain that it was a nut & bolt system s thanks for confirming that.
Bob

 

[Josh28161]

I replaced the 3 batteries yesterday on my 04, with agm group 31’s. On sale at sams. Fit in the factory group 27 trays, but just. While replacing I leaned on the raw water heat exchanger hose from the water heater and it broke at the fitting going in to the heater. It is a 6 gallon Kuuma. It was replaced back in 2012 by OR. I did some research and Kuuma states their heat exchanger is not for raw water use. Their exchanger and tank are aluminum so salt=very bad. I have done some research and found some other manufacturers make stainless exchanges and tanks so they would last much longer. I would like to keep the functionality of the exchanger if possible. Anyone replaced their water heater with stainless?

thanks,
Josh

 

[Henry Boyd]

We have a Quick stainless tank and exchanger on our present boat that has raw water cooling. It’s great but I don’t know if it will fit in the 280s engine bay. We had an Attwood in our 280 that I replaced in 2014ish with the same. While we got great service out of those the heat was being transferred by anti-freeze. The other thing to consider is that a stainless tank/exchanger heater will be about twice the cost as aluminum.

 

[DWABoat]

I replaced the 3 batteries yesterday on my 04, with agm group 31’s. On sale at sams. Fit in the factory group 27 trays, but just. While replacing I leaned on the raw water heat exchanger hose from the water heater and it broke at the fitting going in to the heater. It is a 6 gallon Kuuma. It was replaced back in 2012 by OR. I did some research and Kuuma states their heat exchanger is not for raw water use. Their exchanger and tank are aluminum so salt=very bad. I have done some research and found some other manufacturers make stainless exchanges and tanks so they would last much longer. I would like to keep the functionality of the exchanger if possible. Anyone replaced their water heater with stainless?

thanks,
Josh

Do you keep yours in the water?
I just installed a new Kuuma and read that saltwater is not good for the exchanger. Since I keep mine out of the water and flush with tap water after every use, I am hoping it is okay.

 

[Josh28161]

Thanks for the feedback. I was able to find a Quick 7.9 gallon for $480 at Hodges marine. I am going to try to shoehorn it in the ER somewhere.

no, I don’t keep it in the water and I purchased from a used dealer so no idea if it was kept in the water previously or not. But the Kuuma site says the exchanger is not for raw water. I would keep a close eye on it if you do. If I hadn’t of cracked it while in the ER, it would have eventually come off and if under way it would have flooded the boat.

 

[Henry Boyd]

Josh,

Is that one of the round beer keg looking ones? If so keep in mind the thermostat and heating element is a two part assembly that plugs into one end. It requires 11" for clearance to remove it. also how are you going to handle the waterpump that is currently located on top of the existing heater?

 

[DWABoat]

Right. I plan to flush and drain the exchanger section after each use when I flush the motors. Plan to cut a drain valve in the hose to drain the exchanger when done. Simple enough. However, I am worried the salt water running through it will wear it eventually.
When that happens, I will just disconnect those lines and use it as an electric-only until I change it again.

Judgment call...

 

[Josh28161]

Josh,

Is that one of the round beer keg looking ones? If so keep in mind the thermostat and heating element is a two part assembly that plugs into one end. It requires 11" for clearance to remove it. also how are you going to handle the waterpump that is currently located on top of the existing heater?

Correct, the one that looks like a small keg. Not sure how I am going to install yet, it will definitely require some changes. I’ll post some photos when done. (Assuming I can make it fit)

 

[DWABoat]

Correct, the one that looks like a small keg. Not sure how I am going to install yet, it will definitely require some changes. I’ll post some photos when done. (Assuming I can make it fit)

Forward of the batteries to port of the potable water tank was going to be my spot until I decided to just go back with the exact replacement.