Official 280 Sundancer Thread

on my 280 searay I have two battery switches . One has a knob with off,1,2,both . The second switch has on and off. The question I have is what should both switches be set at when starting the boat? The reason I'm asking is I just bought this boat this year and I'm pretty sure I was was turning one switch to battery 1 and the other switch to on . Today when I was trying to lower the outdrives i only turned on battery 1 and only the port trim would work along with starting and the portside gauges . The starboard side gauges and trim and engine are dead. The only way I could get everything to work is using the emergency start switch. Fyi all the batteries are good. I'm thinking either I have to turn the other switch to on? Or could my batteries be hooked up wrong ? Like I said I just bought this s and boat and used it all summer and never had a problem.
 
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I think different engine mounts might solve this?
cp_71 said:
I have a 2004 with the same propulsion package. After having the merc dealer replace gimbals and align drives, then have the props tuned, still have that same minor resonance. Used to it now so don't really notice it
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The wiring schematic shows the port battery tied to the on / off switch and the two starboard batteries are in series and tied to the off,1,2,both. I think my batteries are hooked up wrong, which is why when I only turn on the starboard switch to 1 the port powers up.
 
On/off switch powers starboard engine and Genny. Duel battery switch does Port engine and House.
 
Use a starting battery for starboard engine and genny. The two batteries that are linked together for port and house need to be the same type and age. Your call on what type to use, really depends on how much hook time you do.
 
My 280 is wired different . port is tied to batteries 1 and 2 .starboard is on one battery which is labeled on /off.
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And when plugged into shorepower the batteries should be switched to both and on correct? Or does the charger decide which one is getting the charge anyway.
 
Chrisvr6 said:
And when plugged into shorepower the batteries should be switched to both and on correct? Or does the charger decide which one is getting the charge anyway.
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battery switches do not need to be on. the charger knows what to do
 
So, i Received My Starboard Vent Cover And Its A Replica. Looks well Made Except I Need To Paint It Now. i Have The Name Of The Paint Color Needed But I Hear There Are Like Six Variations Of Sea Rays "arctic White". Cant Get To My Boat Until May To color Match to The Portside Cover Either. Will Have To Wait I Guess. Still Happy I Was Able To Score One Of These For Only $140 Though.
 
Interior Lamp Replacement Project, 2005 280DA

I set out to replace all the incandescent lamps in my 2005 280DA with LED lamps. Bits and pieces of information can be found to assist, but it was dispersed amongst a wide variety of parts manuals (with SeaRay part numbers that don't really cross reference), forum posts, and web searches.

The goal here was to put the information all in one place.

Light choice:

LEDs come in a number of color temperatures. You can be sorely surprised unless you factor this in up front. Temp ranges (has nothing to do with bulb heat output) are measured in degrees Kelvin. The lighting that was standard in my (and most boats) is in the warm range of 2000-3000K. I prefer bright white closer to sunlight so I chose 6000K for all the lights in the cabin. This may be too stark for some, it's all about personal preference. My suggestion would be to replicate the same color temp throughout vs mix and match. There is a good explanation of this, along with some color examples, at: http://www.westinghouselighting.com/color-temperature.aspx

The two images included show the difference between warm and bright whites. Picture A is the original halogen bulb, Picture B is the 6000K LED bulb

Head, 2 1141 12v bulbs in a dual lamp

The lenses squeeze off to access the lamps. There are lips on the long edges that fit inside slots on the base
I chose to purchase the bulbs from Amazon and got two packages of two each - Kakanuo BA15S 1156 1141 Single Contact LED Auto Signal Lamp 4 Watt Cool White 6000K
That covered the two bulbs here and left one for the 12v Galley lamp and one extra.
Cost $12.99 a pair (Nov 2016)

Galley, multiple bulbs in one lamp

This lamp has two bulbs, one 12v and one 120v. To access the lamps, the lense/cover twists off (clockwise as looking up at it). I was less than bright and thought it was a snap off/clip arrangement, but thankfully did no damage.
The 12v lamp utilized a Kakanuo BA15S 1156 1141 Single Contact LED Auto Signal Lamp 4 Watt Cool White 6000K from Amazon; the 120v is a bit of a weird bird. I initially tried E17 and E12 bulbs (which did not fit) and discovered it to be an E14 (European candelabra bulb format)
For that replacement I obtained Rayhoo E14 Base LED Bulb 7W LED Light, 75-2835-SMD LED Chipsets, 60W Incandescent Bulb Equivalent, Not Dimmable, White 6000-6500K, 500LM from Amazon
Unfortunately, these only come in a 3-pack, so I have two spares
Cost $16.99 (Nov 2016)

Reading Lamps (Multiple, single bulb units dispersed throughout the cabin)

To change out the lamps, the clear plastic lenses just pop out, and can pop back in (you see small recesses in the circumference of the shades, they are a mostly interference fit there, although it appears there is some dried up and ineffective glue in place.
These are all G4 bulbs, two pins, small lamps, VERY hot to touch as they are halogen, so pull them straight out when they have been off long enough to cool.
The new bulbs push into place. LED lights are polarity specific, so if they do not light up, remove and replace them with pins reversed in the lamp base. The small plastic lens just pops back in place
The bulbs I used were from Amazon, KINDEEP G4 LED Bulb, Bi-pin Base, AC/DC 12V 1.5W( 25W Halogen Bulb Equivalent), Daylight White 6000K, two 5-packs at $13.99 each
On a side note, had great customer service from Kindeep. They checked in to ensure there were no issues with the lights and helped me to ID and locate an E14 base 120v lamp

The last lamp left is on the steps into the cabin, a small lamp with a 194 12v bulb in it. At this point I have not replaced it as I am troubleshooting the wiring to it.
I will replace it with an LED in the 194 form factor. There are plenty of options on Amazon for this item.

Next on the list are the cockpit and navigation light replacements.


 
Hello all. Just purchased a 2004 280 DA with 4.3's and a genset. Looking forward to engaging with you.
First stupid ?........hatch over vbirth....I slide it forward and it becomes a screen. Slide it back and it has the black out . How do I open the hatch?
 
Curtiss,

To open the hatch, there are two handles at the bow end of the window, turn these so the "clips" are not holding the edge of the window in place and push upward. They do occasionally stick because of non use so you may have to push hard. If they don't open, perhaps some penetrating oil would help (but messy, but I've never had that issue).

Congrats on your boat, it's a great boat.
 
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