Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Discussion in 'Sport Cruisers' started by gredmer, Jun 26, 2008.

  1. Captn TJ

    Captn TJ Active Member

    769
    Sep 19, 2017
    Catawba Island, Oh
    2005 280DA
    Raymarine E80
    5.0 with Bravo 3
    Does anyone know if the 280 has a cored hull? I'm looking to install an in hull transducer from Garmin and the specs say it doesn't work with cored hulls.
     
  2. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    It's solid fiberglass.
     
  3. Captn TJ

    Captn TJ Active Member

    769
    Sep 19, 2017
    Catawba Island, Oh
    2005 280DA
    Raymarine E80
    5.0 with Bravo 3
    thx
     
  4. Captn TJ

    Captn TJ Active Member

    769
    Sep 19, 2017
    Catawba Island, Oh
    2005 280DA
    Raymarine E80
    5.0 with Bravo 3
    Anyone run cabling from the ER to the helm? I going to run transducer wire - hoping there's a messenger line there or at least conduit where I could run the wire.
     
  5. Darrenfon

    Darrenfon New Member

    9
    Aug 28, 2018
    Richland NJ
    Acquired Oct 2019
    2005 280 DA
    Kohler 5kw
    Twin 4.3L MPI Alphas
    I'm pretty sure someone posted about running such a wire in this very thread, but I can't find it right now. I believe they ran into the arch, down through the refreshment center and right into the ER.
     
  6. Captn TJ

    Captn TJ Active Member

    769
    Sep 19, 2017
    Catawba Island, Oh
    2005 280DA
    Raymarine E80
    5.0 with Bravo 3
    Thx hadn't thought of doing that. Will give it a try.
     
  7. Henry Boyd

    Henry Boyd Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 24, 2007
    Newburyport, on the peaceful and serene Merrimack
    ‘09 Sabre 38 Hardtop Express “Serenity”
    Volvo D6 w/IPS450 Pods
    pull both speakers out of the starboard side. Directly above the holding tank there will be a large hole in the deck that is directly behind the aft speaker hole. Feed the wire up through the hole. This will then allow you to feed the wire into the space under the wet bar. The carpeted “walls” inside the under sink compartment do not go all the way to the top of the enclosure so the wire can feed over that.

    Once under the wet bar the wire has to go forward down the starboard side. There is a vertical stiffener in the hull side that is located directly forward of the front speaker hole. If someone has been in there before there may be a hole that was cut to allow a gps cable from the arch top. If not, you are going to have to cut one.

    Now if you can snake a wire through a wall you can go under the helm where there is a round hole in the side of the gunnel. Snake the wire through the vertical stiffener to the hole under the helm. If you can’t do that, you can pull the side panel that holds the throttle & shift handle. It’s a time consuming pain, but it’s just a bunch of screws and cutting through the caulking. The only trick is to remove the small piece of starboard filler that forms the little cup holder under the throttle because the screws do double duty, holding the filler as well as the panel itself. Once the panel is free, horse it around and lean it on the helm seat. You may want to cover the seat so you don’t constantly get reminded about the cut in the seat that happened when you tried to install the wire. After that it’s pretty simple. Although you might want to leave a length of heavy string so you don’t have to pull the panel when you go to re-wire the gps...

    H
     
    d_mcham likes this.
  8. Captn TJ

    Captn TJ Active Member

    769
    Sep 19, 2017
    Catawba Island, Oh
    2005 280DA
    Raymarine E80
    5.0 with Bravo 3
    Taking a look at it from the ER, looks like all of the cabling is sealed with lots of stuff - not sure if it's silicone. Regardless it may more of a chore remove that stuff than running cabling.

    How about removing the ceiling and side panels in the aft stateroom will that expose the access?
     
  9. Henry Boyd

    Henry Boyd Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 24, 2007
    Newburyport, on the peaceful and serene Merrimack
    ‘09 Sabre 38 Hardtop Express “Serenity”
    Volvo D6 w/IPS450 Pods
    1, That’s why you go up into the underneath of the wet bar. If you want to crawl over the holding tank and fight with the silicone have at it.

    2. On some 280s the panel against the starboard is blocked in by the other panels so you would have to dismantle the whole mid-berth, on others it can be removed easily by itself. Our 280 was one of the former so I default to what I used. If you can get that panel down and out of the way easily that’s the way to go.

    H
     
  10. Captn TJ

    Captn TJ Active Member

    769
    Sep 19, 2017
    Catawba Island, Oh
    2005 280DA
    Raymarine E80
    5.0 with Bravo 3
    Looks like I'm one of the 'lucky' ones? The panel looks like it's just screwed in (see pic below). Didn't try to unscrew it yet - this will be a winter project once all the leaves are down and outdoor furniture put away.

    IMG_6249.jpg
     
  11. Henry Boyd

    Henry Boyd Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 24, 2007
    Newburyport, on the peaceful and serene Merrimack
    ‘09 Sabre 38 Hardtop Express “Serenity”
    Volvo D6 w/IPS450 Pods
    Looks like it. Let me re-phrase; mine did not have any visible screws there, they were only below the cushion line. You have no idea how many hours that would have saved me. It may be possible you can get access to the vertical stiffener I mentioned above. If so you could drill from the cabin side through the stiffener above the silicon glob and then run your transducer cable along the same line as the plumbing and other cables. Don't forget to re-seal any holes you do make so that there is no risk of CO entrance into the mid berth and cabin.

    H
     
  12. Chrisvr6

    Chrisvr6 Member

    187
    Sep 6, 2016
    Chicago
    2002 280da
    Twin 5.0mpi
    Replaced a starter solenoid on one of my 5.0mpis due to an intermittent no start condition. It seems to have fixed my tachometer on that side also.
     
  13. djungeljim

    djungeljim New Member

    22
    Jun 20, 2016
    Sweden
    2006 280DA
    496 MAG
    Hi, I'm having problems with my Kohler generator: it's been running perfect all summer but now when I'm about to winterize it I'm having trouble keeping it running!
    It starts fine and runs fine if I keep the start button pressed, bit as soon as I let go of it (on the unit in the engine room) it dies... I've been searching for a solution and someone in another forum mentioned something about the generator needing more than a 1/4th tank full of gas to get it running.. And my fuel meter shows 1/4 full, but before going to the station to buy more gas (the boat is on land) I just wanted to check here - the generator shouldnt start at all if it was too low on gas, should it?
    Also do I need to worry about it getting filled up with water when I start it like this multiple times? The siphon brake should solve that problem, right?
     
  14. Jovan Ribic

    Jovan Ribic New Member

    7
    Aug 8, 2019
    Sarasota FL
    2007 280 SeaRay Sundancer | Twin 4.3 Mercruiser MPI
    Twin 4.3 Mercruiser MPI
    Hello Sundancers, newbie here!

    I am enjoying (and learning) my first and new to me '07 280DA and first step, of course, was to read some 300+ pages of this thread but so far I am at page 216 (2014). Links and pictures do not always work (5+ years old) but still precious info - I am grateful!

    I am getting ready to test:
    1. Shore power
    2. Shore water supply
    3. Toilet

    Can somebody share do’s and don’ts other than switching main power panel to "SHORE". What to check/test/pay attention to? I believe my marina (Bradenton Boat Club, FL) has everything I need in terms of power/pressure etc.

    Jovan
    BTW, I found secret compartment ;)
     
  15. Captn TJ

    Captn TJ Active Member

    769
    Sep 19, 2017
    Catawba Island, Oh
    2005 280DA
    Raymarine E80
    5.0 with Bravo 3
    Jovan
    Congrats on the boat. Please post pics.

    As to the 'tests' I assume you had the boat surveyed so electric/shore water/toilet were tested? If not let us know what help you need. FYI there was a thread recently on the main discussion board about a couple of boats sinking because the shore water supply burst inside the boat. Good practice is to disconnect the shore water supply when leaving the boat.
     
    Jovan Ribic likes this.
  16. Jovan Ribic

    Jovan Ribic New Member

    7
    Aug 8, 2019
    Sarasota FL
    2007 280 SeaRay Sundancer | Twin 4.3 Mercruiser MPI
    Twin 4.3 Mercruiser MPI
    Unfortunately, did not order survey, surveyed by myself (and Admiral) instead, to best of our knowledge (=0)… I know, I know, for some reason I thought surveys are when one buys a boat from remote location…
    But, at least, ordered compression test and computer history by MM. Both GOOD!
    Overall, not bad, I guess we were lucky.
    What I want to know is what do I have to do to start using shore power and/or water and then switch back to generator/tank later.
    Switches on/off, batteries on/off, seacocks on/off etc...

    Thanks in advance
    Jovan
     
  17. Captn TJ

    Captn TJ Active Member

    769
    Sep 19, 2017
    Catawba Island, Oh
    2005 280DA
    Raymarine E80
    5.0 with Bravo 3
    Ok Will try to answer your questions. BTW do you have a manual - I'll augment my comments with pg numbers.

    Shore power: connect to the receptacle in the transom storage bin. On the main distribution panel (adjacent to the aft stateroom) you'll see a light that shows power and an analog gauge that shows current. (pg 42). You then turn on whichever AC device you want, i.e.fridge, etc. NOTE: The AC Converter switch must be on to charge the batteries (however the battery switches do not need to be on).

    Shore water: adjacent to the shore power in that same locker is the water inlet Just screw in the hose and turn on the water. FYI it does not fill up the water tank - you have to do that manually (pg 10).

    To use the head: turn on the Head System switch on the DC panel - directly below the AC portion of the panel. Turn on the key switch in the head and go at it FYI a routine maintenance item is changing the duckbill valves and the filter. Lots of youtube videos on this. Not a pleasant but necessary routine task.
     
    Jovan Ribic likes this.
  18. Jovan Ribic

    Jovan Ribic New Member

    7
    Aug 8, 2019
    Sarasota FL
    2007 280 SeaRay Sundancer | Twin 4.3 Mercruiser MPI
    Twin 4.3 Mercruiser MPI
    Thanks Captn TJ!
    When on shore power, where is DC panel section (lights, stereo, head...) getting power from? Still from batteries? That would mean AC Converter switch must be on always ON when on shore power?
    Jovan
     
  19. Captn TJ

    Captn TJ Active Member

    769
    Sep 19, 2017
    Catawba Island, Oh
    2005 280DA
    Raymarine E80
    5.0 with Bravo 3
    The DC power and corresponding devices come from the battery. In the cockpit adjacent to the ignition switches: One of the battery switches is an On/Off for 1 engine, the other switch is labeled 1/2/Both. The 1 is engine, the 2 is house DC which powers the devices and obviously both is engine and house. If you are not running the engine and want to just power up the dc devices turn that switch to #2. Also note the fridge runs on both 110 and dc. so when your shore power is plugged in you can run it off of 110.

    The AC Converter on the AC panel is a misnomer think of it as the "battery charger" button. You only need it on to power the battery charger.

    Also do you have a manual for the boat?
     
  20. Jovan Ribic

    Jovan Ribic New Member

    7
    Aug 8, 2019
    Sarasota FL
    2007 280 SeaRay Sundancer | Twin 4.3 Mercruiser MPI
    Twin 4.3 Mercruiser MPI
    Thanks again Captn TJ! Yes, I do have manual.
     

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