Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Degree of Freedom said:
point taken...I'll keep looking
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I'll help a little. On a lake you can probably get away with single and half the maintenance. ICW and off shore, twins without a doubt, but double maintenance. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
 
Degree of Freedom said:
hoping to move up to a 280 next year...what are the opinions on single vs twin power on this boat?
Thanks,
Dan
(sorry if this has already been discussed, I couldn't find it)
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I agree with FDMAX, lake usage and short runs from port a single would be fine but longer runs in open water (ICW, Gulf, Ocean) I would go with the twins. I've had to replace both my IAC's this year and without twins (and not knowing the problem before reading about them on this site) I would have been stranded. More money in upkeep and running them but you do get some insurance you will make it home, although you may limp in you will still make it. My 2 cents!
 
Tonka Boater said:
I wasn't intending to be rude either...Jason was right, grab a few beer and start reading this thread from the beginning. A lot of great info on our boats.
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If you go to Google's Advanced Search page (http://www.google.com/advanced_search?hl=en), you can set the website you want to search. This is the only way I search this website, and usually find what I'm looking for. Start the text with "Official 280" and then your topic and you may find what you're looking for in this thread...

Tom
 
Thanks for all the good info. Now looking to snake the radar dome cable. Whats the easiest access route?
 
scoflaw said:
Thanks for all the good info. Now looking to snake the radar dome cable. Whats the easiest access route?
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See post 2373 from this thread (ignore the routing from ER to wet bar) about removing speakers at wet bar and possible access holes. Also remove the starboard star-board half moon shaped filler from the base of the arch. You also want to remove the section of fiberglass throttle control is mounted to. You do not have to mess with the throttle control, just get the fiberglass out of the way. This may also mean covering, or protecting the helm seat as the edges can be sharp. With all of this stuff removed the only area you will have to really snake is in the arch. My experience with the Raymarine cable was that it was very stiff and even with assistants, it was necessary to do a couple feet at a time in each section.

Henry
 
Henry Boyd said:
See post 2373 from this thread (ignore the routing from ER to wet bar) about removing speakers at wet bar and possible access holes. Also remove the starboard star-board half moon shaped filler from the base of the arch. You also want to remove the section of fiberglass throttle control is mounted to. You do not have to mess with the throttle control, just get the fiberglass out of the way. This may also mean covering, or protecting the helm seat as the edges can be sharp. With all of this stuff removed the only area you will have to really snake is in the arch. My experience with the Raymarine cable was that it was very stiff and even with assistants, it was necessary to do a couple feet at a time in each section.

Henry
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Henry, cant you just take the side wall off the starboard side in the mid-berth instead of removing the Throttle control fiberglass panel? This way you won't disturb the caulk!
 
Didn't want to disturb caulking either, unless I can get caulk to match. This cable is quite flexible and went through the arch no problem. Thinking about some type of fish, if that's possible.
 
i am installing my heater this weekend... i was planning on removing the speaker and snaking the cord from the ER to the wet bar. I would leave the cord coiled under the wet bar when not in use. I would be using the outlet at the helm for power source. Is this the best way?
 
Similar to the way I do it. Mine plugs into outlet in the storage area I have in the cockpit on the port side. ran it up from ER.
 
Also you can get a cheap thermometer with remote sending unit to record the high and low temps from Radio Shack. I'm sure there are other sources. I got it for about $20.
 
floriduramax1 said:
I'll help a little. On a lake you can probably get away with single and half the maintenance. ICW and off shore, twins without a doubt, but double maintenance. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
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I agree with Donnie on this also, however, if I had to do it all over again, I'd get the twin V-8's for sure, probably not much if any more fuel burn anyway. The twin 4.3's are a little sluggish out of the hole, alot if your heavy loaded.
 
:huh:While we are talking about slugish 280's w/4.3's, have any of you T/4.3 guys tried 4 blade stainless props??? My friend has a 95 290 w/twin 4.3's and he swears by them.
 
floriduramax1 said:
Henry, cant you just take the side wall off the starboard side in the mid-berth instead of removing the Throttle control fiberglass panel? This way you won't disturb the caulk!
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On some boats (like ours) the berth panels were installed so that the starboard wall panel can't be removed without removing everything else first. I didn't find that re-caulking was all that big of a deal. The Zephyr colored caulk is available from the dealer.

Henry
 
Henry Boyd said:
On some boats (like ours) the berth panels were installed so that the starboard wall panel can't be removed without removing everything else first. I didn't find that re-caulking was all that big of a deal. The Zephyr colored caulk is available from the dealer.

Henry
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So your starboard panel is behind the ends of the other panels?
 
it would be great if someone could tell me the measurement between the 2 middle stringers in the bilge. outside to outside measurement. i am installing my heater saturday and want to fabricate the mounting plate before i drive 3 hours to the boat... a HUGE thanks in advance!
 
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