Official 280 Sundancer Thread

This past weekend I had a great trip from Hancock, MI to Marquette, MI. Went to a weekend blues fest and drank a little beer. Weather was exceptional, near 90, little wind until the return trip. Ran into a short stretch of 2-4', didn't pound but not smooth. After returning I noticed the port cabinets over the dinette were cockeyed. There are only 4 screws holding the whole unit up and mine were just about all backed out and bent. I check tightness of everything on a routine basis but never thought of the cabinets. Just thought I'd mention it, another thing to keep an eye on.
 
Presentation said:
I paid $8,500 in February 2008.

The unit I selected was the Westerbeke 3.0 MPV.

I am glad we did it.

If / when we sell the boat I do not expect this to become a wise financial decision nor do I expect to get much more for the boat because of the generator. It could help it sell faster but that’s about it.

We had this installed for our comfort and convenience like air conditionin and other appliances when away from shore power.

PS: The above price was a deal in my area. I had it done off season and that was part of why they cut the labor price.
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Thanks for the info - that kind of price is what I was afraid of. I have heard of people using little portables I guess I will have to look into something like that. Does anybody on here use something like that?
 
Lobrim said:
Thanks for the info - that kind of price is what I was afraid of. I have heard of people using little portables I guess I will have to look into something like that. Does anybody on here use something like that?
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Only the asphyxiated ones..........:smt043:smt043:smt043
 
Lobrim said:
Thanks for the info - that kind of price is what I was afraid of. I have heard of people using little portables I guess I will have to look into something like that. Does anybody on here use something like that?
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Do some people use a portable generator like a Honda 2000i, a generator you can buy for around a grand versus $8,500 then be able to take it to other locations like home in the event of a power outage? Yes, some people do this.

The general consensus of this forum is this adds danger to a degree that we do not recommend it.

I personally agree with the consensus of the forum, so much so that I spent the additional money for a marine generator.
 
Has anyone switch from the OEM plow anchor to a Danforth style? I'm in the sandy/clay Great Lakes and the plow just drags. I have been using my second anchor, which is a Danforth, to anchor. If you did switch did you run it through the anchor chute? did you have to switch the chute so the "forks" of the anchor didn't hit the boat? Thanks.

There will be a OEM Plow anchor for sale shortly if someone knows someone who needs one.
 
When I bought my boat the previous owner had switced out the original anchor for a claw anchor to use in the Great Lakes. Not sure how it worked but I switched it back. I still have the claw anchor collecting dust if someone needs it.
 
Fred,

How do you flush your engines after use? Mine is on a lift and I can not access the drives to use muffs.

Thanks,

Sea No Evil
 
dpvandy01 said:
Anyone mount an American flag on the transom locker? If so did you flush mount, raised mound or rail mount? Any pics?
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Yes, I did using parts purchased at West Marine; I used the slanted flush mount socket. I'll try to get a photo of the after; I didn't take photos of the installation. The flush mount sockets have a drain hole in their base, so mounting it above the transom locker which itself drains overboard made sense to me.
 
Ditto, same parts, same location. Also even though the holder has a drain hole, the location between the rear seat bolster and transom locker hatch is covered by canvas when not in use so the amount of water that could enter the transom locker is minimal.

Henry
 
tmhudson2 said:
Yes, I did using parts purchased at West Marine; I used the slanted flush mount socket. I'll try to get a photo of the after; I didn't take photos of the installation. The flush mount sockets have a drain hole in their base, so mounting it above the transom locker which itself drains overboard made sense to me.
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Hole saw on my fiberglass scares the crap out of me:wow: What size holder (3/4" of 1 1/4"), stainless pole? what type of clips? 30" flag?.. I really want to do this right so I'm sorry if I'm a pain with the questions. Thanks
 
Photo of finished product
 

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dpvandy01 said:
Hole saw on my fiberglass scares the crap out of me:wow: What size holder (3/4" of 1 1/4"), stainless pole? what type of clips? 30" flag?.. I really want to do this right so I'm sorry if I'm a pain with the questions. Thanks
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No pain at all. I used a spade bit after first drilling a 1/8" pilot hole. The socket I used was the 1-1/4". I used the teak flagstaff with the screw-in eyes and clips, for a 20"x30" ensign. The grommets in the edge of the ensign are less than 20" apart; you have to measure them because the distance will vary from one flag manufaturer to another. The teak flagstaff is designed for a vertical installation, so I had to whittle the base to get it to fit in the angled socket, which was only about five minutes work with a sharp knife.
 
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I bought the WM rail mount and mounted it to the hatch rail. I centered it on the rail and I can take it on and off without doing anything permanent (i hate cutting holes in boats). I will look for some pics.
 
JYurgo said:
I bought the WM rail mount and mounted it to the hatch rail. I centered it on the rail and I can take it on and off without doing anything permanent (i hate cutting holes in boats). I will look for some pics.
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Please...... love to see some pics. I'll do what I need to to do it right.. after all, countless thousands of brave Americans have died for Our Flag and I feel obligated to treat it and display it proudly and correctly. In fact at my home it is flown and lit 24/7
 
Lt. - Shot me a PM with your email and I will send you a pic of the flag mounted. I'm having trouble getting the pic on the CSR.

I second the flag salute. I also fly her, 24/7. It's the least we can do...
 
I know that the OEM props are the best set up, but I was curious if anyone has ever tried changing props to see if they get better economy, cruising speed, etc... I'm focusing on the 4.3's with Alpha's.
 
Happy New Year to all,

First thanks to all for all the information, I have some very similar issues and you guys have come up with some great stuff. Now to current issue, the blower switch, on the helm, stopped working this season, now I go down to the panel and it works fine through that switch. Anybody have this problem and what did you do about it?
 
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