Official 240 Sundancer Thread

Sorry for the response to your comment....computer problem.
I was thinking the same on the weld. I have a good prop shop I use that may be able to weld. Also found a lower unit for just under $2K. Weld would be around $1200 in tools. Until then...I keep watchin the crack. No enlargement, no change.
 
Vaccu Flush Install

Hello all. I am new to the forums. Just got into a 2007 240 Sundancer. We upgraded from a bowrider. This is the perfect boat for my family and we love it. However, the Porta Potti is only 2.5 gallons and it is setup as a pump out. At $55 per pump out, and considering my 4 yr old can piss 1.5 gallons at a time, this is going to be an issue. Yes they can go #1 in the lake, but I would like to install a vaccu flush with a large holding tank. Has anyone done this that can give some advise as to difficulty, holding tank size that fits, head, macerator, no macerator, etc. I am very handy and want to tackle this myself. Any help would be appreciated. I do not have a generator, no ac/heat so there is alot of room for a holding tank.
 
I added a 5 gallon holding tank from dometic. It is the upgraded super-dulex porta-potti, it could still be carried out I suppose if it is truely $55 for a pump out. I would discuss with your marina the fact you only have a 2.5 gal tank and I am sure they will give you a discount. My tank lasts 2-3 weekends with unlimited use for 2 people.
 
:smt013 Yep it doesn't matter if it is 28 gallons or 2.5 gallons they still need to get the pump down to the docks they said. I read the thread about converting to a vaccu flush. Can I just install a macerator to suction out and grind the waste out of my existing porta potti and into a large holding tank that would eventually get pumped out from the existing pump out feature on the boat or do I need to install a new vaccu flush toilet. I could always just upgrade my porta potti to a 5 gallon which would be the easiest thing to do but it is still $55 to pump out. my goal is to maximize my holding tank and have much less pump outs.
 
Re: Vaccu Flush Install

Hello all. I am new to the forums. Just got into a 2007 240 Sundancer. We upgraded from a bowrider. This is the perfect boat for my family and we love it. However, the Porta Potti is only 2.5 gallons and it is setup as a pump out. At $55 per pump out, and considering my 4 yr old can piss 1.5 gallons at a time, this is going to be an issue. Yes they can go #1 in the lake, but I would like to install a vaccu flush with a large holding tank. Has anyone done this that can give some advise as to difficulty, holding tank size that fits, head, macerator, no macerator, etc. I am very handy and want to tackle this myself. Any help would be appreciated. I do not have a generator, no ac/heat so there is alot of room for a holding tank.

I have a 2007 DA as well but mine has the vaccu-flush already installed. I believe it's an 18 gal tank. Our marina has free pump-outs so I suck that crap (pun intended) out as often as possible just to reduce possible odors. I do not believe mine has a macerator but I bought the bought as a resell and I've only had it a few months so who knows.
 
Have you considered just emptying the 2.5 gal holding tank out yourself? I have a generator, so I can only have the glorified 5 gal portapotty. It's not fun, but my marina does not have a pump out station and we would have to ride 15 min for a $25 pump out. It's not fun, but right now, it's my only choice.
 
I have considered that. I would need to disconnect the water supply and pump out line and cap them off. If I did that, I will upgrade to a 5 gallon (if that is really an upgrade). My ultimate goal is to install the largest holding tank that will fit to minimize pump outs and hassle of dumping (no pun intended) myself. It doesn't seem like installing a vaccu flush toilet and a holding tank would be that difficult. My fresh water supply and pump out lines are already there. I would just need to connect the head to the tank. A question I do have is will any holding tank suffice? Is there a difference between waste holding tanks and other holding tanks? Not to sound stupid.:huh:
 
Re: Vaccu Flush Install

I have a 2007 DA as well but mine has the vaccu-flush already installed. I believe it's an 18 gal tank. Our marina has free pump-outs so I suck that crap (pun intended) out as often as possible just to reduce possible odors. I do not believe mine has a macerator but I bought the bought as a resell and I've only had it a few months so who knows.

Ours is free at the marina but I always tip the bikini girl for handing me the key to turn the machine on. (lighten up, I'm just joking.) The public marina charges $5.

Finally I found someone who put their radio in the same place I did.
 
I am considering buying a 2007 240 Sundancer in the near future. Can anyone tell me the total height from ground to windshield when the boat is sitting on a trailer? We own a storage building and I want to make sure I can fit the boat through the door opening.

Thanks in advance - Jim Rieschl
 
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I know this is larger than actual by a few inches, but towing my 240 on a Load Rite Tandom 10.5' high is a safe estimate for underpasses without a bimini. Add 3' for the bim.

Think twice before blasting through underpasses and/or warehouse doors. I keep mine in my warehouse when not in use. My door is 10 ' x 13'. I clear the 10' wide frame by inches and the 13' door must be completely open (height wise) to fit the boat with bimini in and out!

tginz
 
So for clarification - The 240 on a trailer is 10.5 feet high from the ground to the top of the windshield. With all of the extra rigging removed.

Is that correct?

Thanks again, Jim
 
Sorry - I was boating and not checking my email....... To clarify - Ground to top of windshield is about 10' 5". Will send you a PM with a pic.

tginz
 
Has anyone had the listing problem that my Dad has with his 2006 240 Sundancer? I own a 240 Sundeck. My Dad and I are very experienced boaters. It seams to me that there was a "top heavy" design flaw in the haul design. Over the past three years he has talked to many experts about his problem. One suggested he install larger trim tabs. The manufacture of the tabs that are installed on this boat said that searay undersized the tabs. He ordered and installed the larger tabs and still very unstable boat. We have tried the gentle approach when operating the tabs and still the same result. Any ideas would be appreciated. Daggerboard??? Seatbelts???
 
I understand your concern. Bennett Trim Tab was very helpful and sent me wings (3" deep L-shaped brackets) that attached to my present tabs. Wow, what a difference. Much more stable on plane and before plane. I noticed in a quarter sea when I have to run just off plane that we do a lot less rolling. They are a bit top heavy and unfortunately the nature of the beast.

tginz
 
Has anyone had the listing problem that my Dad has with his 2006 240 Sundancer? I own a 240 Sundeck. My Dad and I are very experienced boaters. It seams to me that there was a "top heavy" design flaw in the haul design. Over the past three years he has talked to many experts about his problem. One suggested he install larger trim tabs. The manufacture of the tabs that are installed on this boat said that searay undersized the tabs. He ordered and installed the larger tabs and still very unstable boat. We have tried the gentle approach when operating the tabs and still the same result. Any ideas would be appreciated. Daggerboard??? Seatbelts???


I have the same boat. First get the boat up on plane and trim the motor up until you find the sweat spot. Depending on how much fuel, water and passengers on board, it will change but basically it runs without the listing in the 5-10% range if I remember correctly. On the dumb guage I run it in the middle between up and down. I would need to check what % that is. I do it by feel. Look over the side and you will see the spray progress toward the stern. You can see this on your smartcraft readout for a more precise reading if you prefer.

This will present a couple of problems. The boat tends to porpoise with wave action. In that event cut back on how much trim you use. You may have some listing in this case but you can correct some of that with the trim tabs.

Once you have the engine trimmed up, then if you list at all it is because of your weight distribution. At this point I would trim with the trim tabs. I think you will find that the trim tabs are more than sufficient to do the job once you employ the engine trim method.

If you try to trim with only your trim tabs it will feel like they are really touchy and the boat will list back and forth and you will feel out of control. Using the above method you will find that the trim tabs work very nicely.

As a note, watch your rpms too. When you trim up the motor there is less resistance so the rpms will climb. I'm not sure what power package you have but you don't want to exceed your WOT limit for long periods of time. For instance, I have the 5L that turns 4150 rpms and cruises at 28-29 mph on the gps reading. The book says WOT is something like 4200 - 4600 for that engine. At least that gives you a comparison.

Does any of this sound familiar? :wow:

You may be amazed at the change in how your boat handles. :thumbsup:
 
Has anyone had the listing problem that my Dad has with his 2006 240 Sundancer? I own a 240 Sundeck. My Dad and I are very experienced boaters. It seams to me that there was a "top heavy" design flaw in the haul design. Over the past three years he has talked to many experts about his problem. One suggested he install larger trim tabs. The manufacture of the tabs that are installed on this boat said that searay undersized the tabs. He ordered and installed the larger tabs and still very unstable boat. We have tried the gentle approach when operating the tabs and still the same result. Any ideas would be appreciated. Daggerboard??? Seatbelts???

We were just at a Sea Ray cruise and I learned about the Bennett Trim Tab Auto-Adjust product. I have similar issues (read, learning curve) on using the combination of trim tab and outdrive trim procedure. I read up on the Bennett product and I think it is the way to go. My first mate does not like the healing action while underway so this may be my answer.:smt038
http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/pdf/instIcon/AC3000_instructions_final.pdf

Thoughts?
Dave
 
Thanks all. I will pass all of this on to my Dad. I know his First Mate is eager for a solution as well. I still like the daggerboard idea. Thanks again.
 
For instance, I have the 5L that turns 4150 rpms and cruises at 28-29 mph on the gps reading. The book says WOT is something like 4200 - 4600 for that engine. At least that gives you a comparison.

Does any of this sound familiar? :wow:

You may be amazed at the change in how your boat handles. :thumbsup:

I "turn" my 5L up to 5000rpm. My cruise range is 3800 to 4000rpm.
 

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