Official 240 Sundancer Thread

sgtdummy99 said:
Has anyone had the listing problem that my Dad has with his 2006 240 Sundancer? I own a 240 Sundeck. My Dad and I are very experienced boaters. It seams to me that there was a "top heavy" design flaw in the haul design. Over the past three years he has talked to many experts about his problem. One suggested he install larger trim tabs. The manufacture of the tabs that are installed on this boat said that searay undersized the tabs. He ordered and installed the larger tabs and still very unstable boat. We have tried the gentle approach when operating the tabs and still the same result. Any ideas would be appreciated. Daggerboard??? Seatbelts???
Click to expand...

I went from a 2004 180 Sport to a 2006 240 Sundancer last year. Sort of like jumping from a sports car into an RV in the handling department, but I knew about that in advance. I have to manipulate the trim tabs quite a bit whenever on plane, but they seem to be properly sized.

Cross winds and turning back and forth across them really taxes my ability to keep the tabs set and the boat level. Occasionaly I get a severe momentary list that is almost scarey but not dangerous IMHO. I have noticed that having the Bimini top deployed makes it worse (acts as a bit of a sail leveraging the boat to tilt). On the other hand, when the seas are smooth and there is no wind, (and the Bimini collapsed/stowed in its boot) my 240 handles like a dream with very little trim tab work. :thumbsup:
 
I will be buying a new anchor (FX-7) to replace my stock anchor on my 07 240DA and I need to know what size chain I need to get and what is the maximum length of chain I can fit in my anchor hatch. I don't really boat in deep waters but I would like to have enough scope.
 
Mark V said:
I went from a 2004 180 Sport to a 2006 240 Sundancer last year. Sort of like jumping from a sports car into an RV in the handling department, but I knew about that in advance. I have to manipulate the trim tabs quite a bit whenever on plane, but they seem to be properly sized.

Cross winds and turning back and forth across them really taxes my ability to keep the tabs set and the boat level. Occasionaly I get a severe momentary list that is almost scarey but not dangerous IMHO. I have noticed that having the Bimini top deployed makes it worse (acts as a bit of a sail leveraging the boat to tilt). On the other hand, when the seas are smooth and there is no wind, (and the Bimini collapsed/stowed in its boot) my 240 handles like a dream with very little trim tab work. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I think this has been discussed before but I can sympathize with you. Having the bimini up does create a kite effect but has nothing to do with the listing problem. On the 240 you need to trim the engine up (how much depends on load and placement [and maybe bimini]) anywhere from 4-7 degrees when on plane otherwise the boat "sits" on the V of the boat and not on the flat part closest to the transom. The listing comes from riding on the V. The boat's attitude can't ride that precisely so it falls off to one side or the other thus the listing effect you feel. This is simply a function of a shorter boat that weights 3 plus tons.

Happy boating. :thumbsup:
 
The stock microwave (Sylvania) on my 2006 240DA quit working. Trying to find a replacement with the same dimensions to fit the space constraints proved almost impossible. Purely on luck I ran across a Dometic microwave sold by Gulfstream Marine Services in Largo, FL which is identical to the stock microwave, both in terms of dimensions and power ratings. The only difference is that it says Dometic instead of Sylvania on it. The best part is that instead of paying $230 plus delivery charges through my Sea Ray dealer, total costs including shipping to North Dakota, were less than $75. If anyone else finds themselves in a similar predicament, I strongly recommend the helpful people at Gulfport Marine Services (727-546-5029).
 
I have a 2006 240DA, with a spotlight but no windlass. I have no problem fitting an 8 lb Danforth on 8 feet of chain and 150 feet of line, plus a smaller plow on 6 feet of chain and 75 feet of line (back up), plus 150 feet of spare rope (to tie to shore), plus two old standard yoke orange life jackets in the bottom for padding, plus (on a recent trip) five sets of snorkeling fins (2 adults, 3 kids) in my anchor locker. I boat a good bit in Lake Superior and Lake Michigan and, of course, avoid exposed anchorages as much as possible, but I personally don't have a need for an all-chain rode.
 
Hi Kurt
Welcome. 8lbs sounds a little lean for your boat as far as the anchor size goes.
 
Fishnut said:
I think this has been discussed before but I can sympathize with you. Having the bimini up does create a kite effect but has nothing to do with the listing problem. On the 240 you need to trim the engine up (how much depends on load and placement [and maybe bimini]) anywhere from 4-7 degrees when on plane otherwise the boat "sits" on the V of the boat and not on the flat part closest to the transom. The listing comes from riding on the V. The boat's attitude can't ride that precisely so it falls off to one side or the other thus the listing effect you feel. This is simply a function of a shorter boat that weights 3 plus tons.

Happy boating. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Good point ! I was out on Lake Conroe the last several days and was a little more aggressive using the sterndrive trim first, just shy of porpoising, to keep her on the bottom's flat area, and it worked- less trim tab work required, and noticeably more stable-thanks for the tip!
 
I think a lot of 240 folks would benefit from playing with the motor trim to address the listing problem. It used to drive me crazy trying to get the trim tabs to correct the problem. Now I barely use the trim tabs except to adjust for passenger placement and wind.

Someone here suggested that they trimmed up as they applied full throttle to take off. I found that this technique works really well with a little practice. [You will also impress the admiral by not throwing her from side to side and your status as a captain will increase remarkably.]

This allows you to apply full power to get up on plane and as you come on plane you trim up to optimum performance. You will notice that you pick up some additional speed and better fuel performance too. Just remember to keep track of your tach because it tends to creep up while trimmed up.
 
HELP WITH PORTAPOTTI.. Hi Guys. I bought my parents a '97 240 DA. She's a US import (now over in the UK!)... but its got a Portapotti! My 240DA (2006 model) has a Vacuflush with Macerator so I have NO idea how this Portapotti works! Where does it get its water from? Does it have to be filled with water or is it somehow takingw ater from the water tank? Do I pump out in the same way from the side "waste" port and can I still use a normal pump out taht I'd use for pumping out my holding tank?
 
Hi from Australia, I have a 2006 build 240 Sundancer with a 350 MPI Horizon, and Bravo III. As we do not have extreme cold here ( min in Winter we get at home is 7c ) which is well above freezing I was told not to bother draining the motor, and just to flush it with fresh water using the water muffs on the leg intakes. Would you agree that this should be enough or are there corrosion issues. I now take the boat home if not being used the max it stays in the salt water is four weeks, most of the time is is only a couple of days at a time, then it is brought home. Getting ready for the Snapper season last week end I noticed that there is a small Drive Fluid leak, I became aware of it when I left the leg in full down position for couple of weeks. I raised he leg to locate where it is driping from and noticed it is dripping from above the U Joint bellows and then flowing to the lowest point of the leg. tTrying to locate the leak I noticed the U joint bellows also has a small hole in it at 6 o'clock so it looks like some big repair costs, any advice would be appreciated.
regards
Barry
 
Ok, let me see if I can articulate the basics of the system that your parents have. It is quite antiquated, the vacu-flush is far superior. I’ve answered your questions below:

It gets its water from a reservoir behind the seat. There is a hand pump on the left side of the unit; the bellows looking thing. When you depress the bellows, water enters the bowl itself. The idea is that it will wash whatever is in the bowl down to the holding tank, kind of like the flushing of a regular toilet. This is obviously if the gate is open. The gate is located between the bottom of the bowl and the top of the holding tank and the handle is on the front of the unit; you simply pull it out towards you.

You have to fill the water reservoir. There is a cap on the right side of the unit where you can fill it up. The best time to fill it is when you are pumping out.

You should be able to pump it out as you would with your boat, there is nothing special about that part of the puzzle at all.

Hope this helps. How did the tune up go?

C-


Chatuge said:
HELP WITH PORTAPOTTI.. Hi Guys. I bought my parents a '97 240 DA. She's a US import (now over in the UK!)... but its got a Portapotti! My 240DA (2006 model) has a Vacuflush with Macerator so I have NO idea how this Portapotti works! Where does it get its water from? Does it have to be filled with water or is it somehow takingw ater from the water tank? Do I pump out in the same way from the side "waste" port and can I still use a normal pump out taht I'd use for pumping out my holding tank?
Click to expand...
 
Arizona240DA said:
Ok, let me see if I can articulate the basics of the system that your parents have. It is quite antiquated, the vacu-flush is far superior. I’ve answered your questions below:

It gets its water from a reservoir behind the seat. There is a hand pump on the left side of the unit; the bellows looking thing. When you depress the bellows, water enters the bowl itself. The idea is that it will wash whatever is in the bowl down to the holding tank, kind of like the flushing of a regular toilet. This is obviously if the gate is open. The gate is located between the bottom of the bowl and the top of the holding tank and the handle is on the front of the unit; you simply pull it out towards you.

You have to fill the water reservoir. There is a cap on the right side of the unit where you can fill it up. The best time to fill it is when you are pumping out.

You should be able to pump it out as you would with your boat, there is nothing special about that part of the puzzle at all.

Hope this helps. How did the tune up go?

C-
Click to expand...

Cool.. Thanks for that... I've just checked on all of that and yep I've found where the water goes - Thanks for your help there :)

Tune up went brilliant! The spark plugs were the wrong ones! (previous owner not me!) and one of the HT leads was bad too! We took her out and she was performing excellent. She idles very nicely now too, not surprisingly ;)
 
Doc Barrington said:
Hi from Australia, I have a 2006 build 240 Sundancer with a 350 MPI Horizon, and Bravo III. As we do not have extreme cold here ( min in Winter we get at home is 7c ) which is well above freezing I was told not to bother draining the motor, and just to flush it with fresh water using the water muffs on the leg intakes. Would you agree that this should be enough or are there corrosion issues. I now take the boat home if not being used the max it stays in the salt water is four weeks, most of the time is is only a couple of days at a time, then it is brought home. Getting ready for the Snapper season last week end I noticed that there is a small Drive Fluid leak, I became aware of it when I left the leg in full down position for couple of weeks. I raised he leg to locate where it is driping from and noticed it is dripping from above the U Joint bellows and then flowing to the lowest point of the leg. tTrying to locate the leak I noticed the U joint bellows also has a small hole in it at 6 o'clock so it looks like some big repair costs, any advice would be appreciated.
regards
Barry
Click to expand...

When was the last time that the bellows were replaced Barry?
 
Doc Barrington said:
Hi from Australia, I have a 2006 build 240 Sundancer with a 350 MPI Horizon, and Bravo III. As we do not have extreme cold here ( min in Winter we get at home is 7c ) which is well above freezing I was told not to bother draining the motor, and just to flush it with fresh water using the water muffs on the leg intakes. Would you agree that this should be enough or are there corrosion issues. I now take the boat home if not being used the max it stays in the salt water is four weeks, most of the time is is only a couple of days at a time, then it is brought home. Getting ready for the Snapper season last week end I noticed that there is a small Drive Fluid leak, I became aware of it when I left the leg in full down position for couple of weeks. I raised he leg to locate where it is driping from and noticed it is dripping from above the U Joint bellows and then flowing to the lowest point of the leg. tTrying to locate the leak I noticed the U joint bellows also has a small hole in it at 6 o'clock so it looks like some big repair costs, any advice would be appreciated.
regards
Barry
Click to expand...

G-Day Barry,, I'm in Hervey Bay (Ithought we had the best fishing up here !)

Keep in mind that cost of repairs are proportional to the square of the time left un-attended. So get the hole in the bellows fixed real quick.

The oil leak will be from the flexible hose that goes from the inner transom plate to the gimbal ring. The hose is retained with a couple of plastic hose clips like they have on irrigation systems, the ones you buy in Bunnings. The gimbal ring has to come off to replace the clips but can easily be done when the U-joint bellows are replaced.

If you are leaving the boat in the water for 4 weeks at a time, you should consider installing a Fresh Water Cooling kit. only $1100 here, better than paying out for new manifolds and risers (at least $3000 here) and the possibility of flooding the motor with salt water while you are away from the boat. That could cost you a new motor.

Just a couple of tips. Enjoy your Sea Ray !
 
I have a tsnami bilge pump that came with the boat that I bought new from the dealer. Couple weeks ago, I realized that the bilge pump does not automatically pump water out of the bilge unless I turn it on from the helm. There is another small box next to it pump but I can't see if it has a float switch or not. I did some digging up on the internet and apparently this pump has a cartridge that is interchangeable? Not sure what exactly it means. I always thought that bilge pump would always stay hot to prevent water from overtaking the bilge. I think I will have to buy a new bilge pump, but that task of replacing it seems tricking because I really have no room to wiggle down under the engine.
 
papogator24 said:
I have a tsnami bilge pump that came with the boat that I bought new from the dealer. Couple weeks ago, I realized that the bilge pump does not automatically pump water out of the bilge unless I turn it on from the helm. There is another small box next to it pump but I can't see if it has a float switch or not. I did some digging up on the internet and apparently this pump has a cartridge that is interchangeable? Not sure what exactly it means. I always thought that bilge pump would always stay hot to prevent water from overtaking the bilge. I think I will have to buy a new bilge pump, but that task of replacing it seems tricking because I really have no room to wiggle down under the engine.
Click to expand...

Hmmmm It seems mines the same. Any ideas anyone?
 
The box next to the bilge pump is the float switch. It is designed to sense water and the bilge and kick the pump on when necessary. If you are feeling nervous about it, simply take a water hose and start filling the bilge with water; this would let you know if it unequivocally works. You could also stick your fingers in the “box” or float switch and listen for the pump to kick in also.

As for the cartridge filter, I am not 100% sure, but it may be a screen of sorts that keeps crud out of the impellers in the pump itself.

I hope this helps a bit.

C-
 
I have already tried the water hose trick. It does not automatically turn on by itself. I have to turn the pump on at the helm. Looks like a new bilge pump is in order.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,338
Messages
1,430,676
Members
61,184
Latest member
JoeSearay260
Back
Top