Official 240 Sundancer Thread

Thanks Nehalennia,

Unfortunately, the trailer company is out of state and lazy and there are no sea ray dealers within a 1.5 hour drive from home. It's not that big a deal. I can adjust it at the marina where I will take delivery of the boat. I just thought someone with a 240 might already know how far apart the bunks should be. I'll just pay the forklift driver to hold the boat up so I can take measurements.

Thanks again.
 
Hi all,

We are currently selling our pontoon (need to sell first) and looking for a 96-99 240DA.

My question is this - does anybody around the Cincinnati area have one in that year range that my wife and I could look at? Even if it is not for sale, it would do us wonders to be able to look at one to see if it is what we are expecting! Then we could make a long road trip for a purchase if necessary and know we would like what we see.

We are very respectful, and would meet at your convienance! Shoes off, and the whole works!!

Thanks so much!
 
Last edited:
Hello everyone-

Another newbie here. Recently purchased a 1997 240 DA and had it out for the first time this weekend. Family loved it and it performed really well. My only disappointment was with the shore power and what it operates. Am I correct in saying that the shore power will only operate the outlets and the fridge? Are all the lights/electronics striclty run off the boats 12V system? Not a big issue, but just surprised I guess.

Any input would be appreciated!

Thanks

Thanks
 
240DA Towing Question

Hi All,

I think I may have mis-posted this earlier, so I'd like to try again. Sorry about that.

I'm new here. I performed sea trials on a Sea Ray 240DA last week and left a deposit as it performed flawlessly. I'll be picking up my new toy this week sometime and would like to ask a question just in case someone here knows the answer and would like to save me some headaches. I just purchased a Loadrite 5 Starr 6000 model aluminum trailer. It has two adjustable bunks and I was wondering if anyone could tell me how far apart those bunks need to be to accommodate my new 2001 240DA. The dealer who sold me the trailer mentioned that it was set up to handle almost everything except the sea ray, as they are different from most everyone else. I was hoping to get it as close as possible to minimize the adjustments needed when I go to pick it up. Here are the trailer specs if needed.

Model: 5S-AC25T6000102LTB1
Capacity: 6,000
Bow Eye to Transom Max: 23'7"
Bow Eye to Transom Min: 17'9"
Rear to Angle Support: 17'7"
Axles: 2
Overall Width: 101"
Between Fenders: 82"
Overall Length: 26'9"

Any insight you guys and gals can offer would be very much appreciated. I just want to mention also that I really enjoy reading all of your posts.

Thanks.
 
Steven_Ballard said:
Hello everyone-

Another newbie here. Recently purchased a 1997 240 DA and had it out for the first time this weekend. Family loved it and it performed really well. My only disappointment was with the shore power and what it operates. Am I correct in saying that the shore power will only operate the outlets and the fridge? Are all the lights/electronics striclty run off the boats 12V system? Not a big issue, but just surprised I guess.

Any input would be appreciated!

Thanks

Thanks
Click to expand...

Steve.
It depends on what you have for features. The charger, fridge, Microwave, hot water tank,cabin light, outlets will on run on shore power (120VAC) if you have all of those features. All other lights, pumps, CO detector, helm and systems will be 12VDC. Your fridge should also run on 12VDC when not on shorepower(if you switch it on in the breaker box)
 
Thanks Todd! The charger, fridge and outlets work, but the cabin lights would not come on unless I had the battery swith on. Major bugger, but I will figure it out.

Thanks again.
Nehalennia said:
Steve.
It depends on what you have for features. The charger, fridge, Microwave, hot water tank,cabin light, outlets will on run on shore power (120VAC) if you have all of those features. All other lights, pumps, CO detector, helm and systems will be 12VDC. Your fridge should also run on 12VDC when not on shorepower(if you switch it on in the breaker box)
Click to expand...
 
Hello Everyone,

I traded my 96 240 DA in on a new 2009 240DA and am still breaking the engine in. I have a problem with bilge water getting into the cabin. The dealer (Lake Union SeaRay) has been great- devoting as much time to repair and testing as necessary. The water entered the bilge from a leaking water heater fitting which took some time finding. The problem was compounded by the cabin carpeting getting soaked by water from the bilge. Overly long screws holding the sump box to the deck provided one path and apparently there is a small passage between the inner and outer hull where the transducer attaches. The transducer requires sealing from sea water through the outer hull and bilge water through the inner hull from entering the passage. This passage can apparently communicate into the cabin through the screw holes from the bilge. This provided another path for the fresh water intrusion. Just thought I would pass this along in case anyone experiences this kind of problem. I doubt that my boat is the only one to have a problem like this. I think it's repaired and all should be well. We'll see.
 
Hey Todd, what do you do when you tow? Do you tow with canvas cover on or off? Do you remove the bimini tubes or leave them on.... or does it change depending on distance your towing? Any advice appreciated, I'm towing for first time this weekend, about 40miles.
 
Steven_Ballard said:
Thanks Todd! The charger, fridge and outlets work, but the cabin lights would not come on unless I had the battery swith on. Major bugger, but I will figure it out.

Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Yes the battery switch has to be in the on (#1, #2 or Both(ALL)) to allow any of the 12VDC (including lights) systems to work. This is normal. When on shorepower, don't worry about that as long as your charger is on and working.

joelc said:
Hey Todd, what do you do when you tow? Do you tow with canvas cover on or off? Do you remove the bimini tubes or leave them on.... or does it change depending on distance your towing? Any advice appreciated, I'm towing for first time this weekend, about 40miles.
Click to expand...
Yes I leave the bimini bows up at all times. During the winter (Oct-Feb/Mar) or rainy times the entire canvas is left up. I have a large garage the boat is stored in so it's nice I don't have to take it all down.

I'll leave it all up and stay at 60 MPH or below.
77d48bc1.jpg

If we come back to the launch and it's raining I can just pull her on the trailer run her home, flush her out and put her in her garage.
Garage11-17-08.jpg


This time of year though, the weather is nice so I leave the bimini's wrapped in their boots and throw the cockpit tonneau on and then I can run down the freeway at 70.
TripwithDad-Troy4-3-0920.jpg
 
Todd, thanks alot!
I have one more question, how did you set your truck/hitch up to ~ level? I have air bags on back springs so was going to measure the hitch and coupler levels when on level ground, drop the hitch to match the coupler and then pump the bags up after the trailer is on the ball to the pre-attach level.
 
Hello All,

New to forum and need help with somewhat of the same problem. My boat is a 2002 240 sundancer and I have water coming in the bilge and I can't locate the source. I have completely empties the water tank, water heater and disconnected the water hose so there is no outside water source into the boat. I have ruled out rain water because it happens even when there is no rain for days on end. Sometimes it is approximately 2-3 gallons other times much less. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated and I look forward to hearing the insight on this forum.

I traded my 96 240 DA in on a new 2009 240DA and am still breaking the engine in. I have a problem with bilge water getting into the cabin. The dealer (Lake Union SeaRay) has been great- devoting as much time to repair and testing as necessary. The water entered the bilge from a leaking water heater fitting which took some time finding. The problem was compounded by the cabin carpeting getting soaked by water from the bilge. Overly long screws holding the sump box to the deck provided one path and apparently there is a small passage between the inner and outer hull where the transducer attaches. The transducer requires sealing from sea water through the outer hull and bilge water through the inner hull from entering the passage. This passage can apparently communicate into the cabin through the screw holes from the bilge. This provided another path for the fresh water intrusion. Just thought I would pass this along in case anyone experiences this kind of problem. I doubt that my boat is the only one to have a problem like this. I think it's repaired and all should be well. We'll see.[/quote]
 
joelc said:
Todd, thanks alot!
I have one more question, how did you set your truck/hitch up to ~ level? I have air bags on back springs so was going to measure the hitch and coupler levels when on level ground, drop the hitch to match the coupler and then pump the bags up after the trailer is on the ball to the pre-attach level.
Click to expand...

I had the trailer sitting level on it's front jack. I then backed the truck up to it and measured the distance from where the top of the coupler would match where the top of the ball should be. I then subtracted 1" since I knew the truck's ass would drop and I wanted the trailer to be as level as possible. This for me was a 2" dropped receiver.
 
Thanks, I basically did the same thing so ended up within ~1" (which is how fine my hitch can adjust) everything worked out great.
 
I traded my 96 240 DA in on a new 2009 240DA and am still breaking the engine in. I have a problem with bilge water getting into the cabin. The dealer (Lake Union SeaRay) has been great- devoting as much time to repair and testing as necessary. The water entered the bilge from a leaking water heater fitting which took some time finding. The problem was compounded by the cabin carpeting getting soaked by water from the bilge. Overly long screws holding the sump box to the deck provided one path and apparently there is a small passage between the inner and outer hull where the transducer attaches. The transducer requires sealing from sea water through the outer hull and bilge water through the inner hull from entering the passage. This passage can apparently communicate into the cabin through the screw holes from the bilge. This provided another path for the fresh water intrusion. Just thought I would pass this along in case anyone experiences this kind of problem. I doubt that my boat is the only one to have a problem like this. I think it's repaired and all should be well. We'll see.[/quote]

Well, I just experianced the same issue with my water heater. I opened the hatch to check for fumes before cranking and noticed just a small amount of water. No biggie as I just had my impeller on the genny replaced and figured the boat was out in the rain. Well as the engine was warming up, I noticed the water started to increase. After pulling the boat to pull the drain plug and check it, we started over. Same issue the water started coming in. I found that one of the hoses going into the hot water heater was gushing water at the box. It appeared that it had corroded within the box. This is a fair warning for yet another reason to open the hatch and check your bildge every time you crank her up...
 
My winch strap on my trailer broke. I think it was old and dried out. The trailer is a 7000lb load 9000lb trailer. Most of the 2" grey (which is what was on the trailer winch) straps I see have a 5000lb rating. Anyone know if this will be good enough or do I need to find a 7000 - 10000lb strap?
 
Todd, I had another towing question if you see this before Sat. I'm towing alot further this time, 200 miles. I have E load tires on my Suburban and can take them up to 80psi, What tire pressure do you run when you tow? I have the trailer at max. What tow speed do you average on flat road and do you stick it in 3rd, run at a certain RPM to lock up convertor, or does your truck have a tow mode?

Regards,

Joel C.
 
joelc said:
Todd, I had another towing question if you see this before Sat. I'm towing alot further this time, 200 miles. I have E load tires on my Suburban and can take them up to 80psi, What tire pressure do you run when you tow? I have the trailer at max. What tow speed do you average on flat road and do you stick it in 3rd, run at a certain RPM to lock up convertor, or does your truck have a tow mode?

Regards,

Joel C.
Click to expand...

Hi Joel
I tow at 70 on flat when I can run with just the towing cover on. 60 or below with the full canvas up.
As far as tire PSI is concerned, I believe I'm at 70 right now. My 2500 HD '04 Silverado does have the tow mode on the trani' and it tows our boat with a triple axle trailer nicely.
 
Anyone have issues with their Aux input on the Clarion radio? Mine has the separate aux connection from the radio in the wall. When I plug my ipod in the voice is all drowned out and just the music plays... I tried messing with the equalizer but it doesn't get better. I tried another ipod as well and the same thing happened. This is on an 07. I Also took the radio out to see if there was a connection problem but I couldn't really figure out where it was connected.
 
I want to install an extended swim platform. I have researched a few companies. Each company platform size and price varies. I would like to go as big as possible. My concern is will it effect performance of the boat? Has anyone with an 06 or 07 installed a platform? What size is it and how has it effected the boat? I know that Swim Platforms Inc will come recommended but their platform is too small in my opinion especially for the price? It is only 18" deep. I would like to be at least 25"-30" deep.
 
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