Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

Thank you Jeremy. I'll look at that spot. I always worry what will be in there when you start cutting.
 
Johnnydee said:
Thank you Jeremy. I'll look at that spot. I always worry what will be in there when you start cutting.
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You can easily see what is in there, by taking apart the port closet in the mid cabin. It opens up to include the area behind the footwell. I recommend doing this, so you can better assess the installation and when you install the sub, better secure the wiring. I did make a 1/2 inch plywood backer around the new hole for added strength, as the fiberglass in that area is less than 1/4 inch thick and there is nothing really for the screws to bite into.
 
Has anyone here installed the infinity teak look deck
carpet here in Sandusky/ cataba Ohio Area ?
I was interested in putting the team carpet in the boat ,
but would like to see it live/I person The admiral (the wife )
wants carpet but I think teak look has eye appeal And is also practical !
 
see ray said:
Has anyone here installed the infinity teak look deck
carpet here in Sandusky/ cataba Ohio Area ?
I was interested in putting the team carpet in the boat ,
but would like to see it live/I person The admiral (the wife )
wants carpet but I think teak look has eye appeal And is also practical !
Click to expand...

Make a day trip out of it and come see mine! I am extremely happy with mine, as it looks great, is maintenance free and feels good on the feet.
 
All, had an issue this weekend, my port engine (8.1) wont get over 3600, no matter how much throttle i give it. Revs up fairly well to there then any more throttle doesnt change it. And it bounces around about 100-150 rpms. Whats going on is it Fuel starved, bad plug maybe, iac sensor??? Help




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Chris - if there are no Smartcraft codes, how long has it been since you changed your plugs? My experience was the 8.1's eat the Delco plugs...If it's been over 25 hours, start there...and use the Champion equivalent plug...
 
Johnnydee said:
Subwoofer.. 2004 sundancer 340. I'm looking to install two 10 inch subs. I can't find any photos or forums showing where people have installed. I'm going with JL. Iwas thinking on side of drivers seat pointing towards port side but seems 10 inch will be too big for diameter. Depth not a problem. An8 inch would fit fine. Then I was thinking under seat pointing up. That seeks like it would work but not sure if water would sit in it.
As for the second sub I have no good ideas.
Please let me know if anyone has some ideas.
Thanks
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i have two sealed cabinets with 10" subs. The first is under the captain's seat (homemade cabinet with low profile driver firing up). The second is under the aft bench (cabinet made by kicker for marine use, firing down).

This approach yields tighter bass without the need for cutting.
 
teekster said:
i have two sealed cabinets with 10" subs. The first is under the captain's seat (homemade cabinet with low profile driver firing up). The second is under the aft bench (cabinet made by kicker for marine use, firing down).

This approach yields tighter bass without the need for cutting.
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Like the idea of no cutting, but I like having ample storage more. Which is why I installed mine in the factory location.
 
"Lost Communication" alarm...A few times over recent weeks a single alarm went off (one beep, then stops) that communication was lost to the stbd engine. It only happened at idle speed. One time the engine remained running and all gauges read fine. Another time the gauges (in dash and on smartcraft) went off while the engine remained running fine. I shut down and restarted and all gauges came back fine and it didn't happen again the rest of the day. Has anyone else experienced this?
 
Wow, no I haven't experienced this but my thought would be to check for a loose connection in harness, or possibly a ground problem. I would start with the harness though.
 
Had same problem earlier this season. Changed plugs first, then swapped plug wires from other engine, then pulled and tested fuel pumps - non of these helped. Took to local marina and mechanic said engine was idling and running a bit rough, nothing real noticeable other than to his trained ear. Sprayed what i guess was ether or something into the air intake and engine smoothed right out. Obvious difference. He said that indicates fuel injectors. Pulled and had ultrasonically cleaned. Came back as three being better than 50% blocked. Re installed and sea trial revealed much more power and WOT at 4450 rpms. He stated it was due to the fuel cooler issue that maso are familiars with. Sea Ray painted the insides of the fuel cooler, over time this breaks down and ends up in your injectors. Having my port engine done in the off season.
 
Bob, yes i currently am experiencing similar issue. My port engine will shut off momentarily and gauges will zero out. But it is only a brief moment and so far only happens once during an outing. Throws no codes. The lost communication, comes up on my E80 anytime the power is interrupted to it. If you figure it out let me know. I am thinking loose connection somewhere, or computer burp - just haven't been able to trace it down.
 
Has anyone replaced their aluminum exhaust manifolds with the cast iron? If so, was it something you had a shop do or just did yourself? Also, who has the best price on the cast iron, mercruiser wont replace mine.
Thanks


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saopm said:
I had this issue. I ended up drilling the plastic out and using a pick (more of a hook) to pull the plastic out of the threads. Hopefully this happened to your starboard engine since there is more access. Good luck!
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Hey Tim - Well I wasn't as fortunate. I went to boat yesterday to do this job with an extractor bit full expecting that I could be able to hand extract the broken plastic back out. NOPE. Put the extractor on a drill and still no go. The plug, whats left to it, would not back out. It just tore up and became pieces. After 90 minutes of this BS and not getting the plug out I wound up screwing a bolt with Teflon tape into the remaining hole and the leak is plugged. I hate that finished job but not sure what else to do. I wanted to put a blow torch in there to melt the blue plastic but that didn't sound like a great idea......
 
villain style said:
Hey Tim - Well I wasn't as fortunate. I went to boat yesterday to do this job with an extractor bit full expecting that I could be able to hand extract the broken plastic back out. NOPE. Put the extractor on a drill and still no go. The plug, whats left to it, would not back out. It just tore up and became pieces. After 90 minutes of this BS and not getting the plug out I wound up screwing a bolt with Teflon tape into the remaining hole and the leak is plugged. I hate that finished job but not sure what else to do. I wanted to put a blow torch in there to melt the blue plastic but that didn't sound like a great idea......
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I just went through this on the plug on my starboard cool fuel module. Took about an hour with a dental pick to chip away at the plastic without damaging the treads.
 
Pierpressure1 said:
I just went through this on the plug on my starboard cool fuel module. Took about an hour with a dental pick to chip away at the plastic without damaging the treads.
Click to expand...

Good idea on the Dental Pick. I may try that. If these items are supposed to be open yearly at least for winterizing there sure are a lot of us having issues with an item that should be easy to open and close at will...
 
does anyone know what LED bulbs goes in the lights in the cabin? 2004 340
Thanks for your help
 
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