Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

JimFromMD said:
BoatLife Life Seal... did mine last season and very pleased. Unless you have to, I would recommend against completely removing the skylights unless they are leaking. I used a HD cheap caulking removal tool and plastic razor blades to dig out the upper layers of the crusty cracking sealant, and then put the life seal in around the gaps. Dry every since.
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Thanks all that is what I was leaning towards. I don't have any leaks yet but can see them in my near future if i don't get the windshield caulked. No leaks in the port lights just cosmetic. Same thing in the engine vent area. Tired of looking at the cracked caulk.
 
If you use BoatLife, or any caulk, make sure that everything is dry before you caulk. Otherwise water becomes trapped and can cause discoloring over time.


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Zorba said:
Thanks all that is what I was leaning towards. I don't have any leaks yet but can see them in my near future if i don't get the windshield caulked. No leaks in the port lights just cosmetic. Same thing in the engine vent area. Tired of looking at the cracked caulk.
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I have been really pleased with LifeSeal. I used it to re-secure my vent covers 3 years ago now and it's still white and flexible. Did the windshield and skylights last season. So far so good.
 
I need help!! I was changing the knobs on the galley cabinets and while changing the trim rings around the pull knobs I cracked the wood veneer. I went to a local cabinet shop to get it refaced but the formica is on an 8 week wait. I tried sea ray but they no longer have the door or veneer avaiable. I live in Michigan, so I only have 3 months of summer and I really don't want to wait 2 months to have fixed. does anyone know where I can get the veneer or the entire door at. it is the forward salon cabinet door and measures 14" wide x 24" tall. the part # is 1777334. any help/advice would be great!!!
 
Richey rich said:
I need help!! I was changing the knobs on the galley cabinets and while changing the trim rings around the pull knobs I cracked the wood veneer. I went to a local cabinet shop to get it refaced but the formica is on an 8 week wait. I tried sea ray but they no longer have the door or veneer avaiable. I live in Michigan, so I only have 3 months of summer and I really don't want to wait 2 months to have fixed. does anyone know where I can get the veneer or the entire door at. it is the forward salon cabinet door and measures 14" wide x 24" tall. the part # is 1777334. any help/advice would be great!!!
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I've heard that the veneer color/pattern is no longer available.


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onthejob said:
If anybody needs a brand new, still in the packaging, cabin entrance door for a 2003.5-2006 340 Sundancer a guy I know in my marina is selling one. He has a pre 2003.5 340 Sundancer and they sent him the wrong one. I'm sure he will take any reasonable offer especially if it involves him not having to ship it. Rochester, NY.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sea-Ray-340...670-/331545836421?hash=item4d31abfb85&vxp=mtr
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Thanks for the heads up. I will keep my eye on the auction. My door has faded to a nice light pink color.
 
that's what my local Sea Ray dealer told me too. But I called Sea Ray corporate and they gave me Formica's part number and I called them, it is a special order only and takes 4-8 weeks.
 
can anybody tell me so I don't have to run out to the boat how many cup holders are in the cockpit of a 2005 340?? want to buy stainless steel one but im trying to do it before I get home. Thanks
 
Richey rich said:
can anybody tell me so I don't have to run out to the boat how many cup holders are in the cockpit of a 2005 340?? want to buy stainless steel one but im trying to do it before I get home. Thanks
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There are two in the transom corner, two behind the helm seats and one by the captain's seat. So five in total for the inset cup holders...not near enough btw.
 
sfergson727 said:
You might not need to make any modifications to the shroud. I was able to find a thin set that fit behind the shroud.



I did have to move the mount vertically to recenter the set though.
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Well, I couldn't leave well enough alone. This past weekend, I moved the existing LED 26" tv to the cockpit, and bought a 32" unit to replace it. After cursing at Sea Ray for all the stupid damn staples I had to remove, I made the cutout on the shroud larger, and had to move the mount over about 1.9 centimeters, and down about 7.5 centimeters. Amazed myself, but I got the positioning right on the first attempt, although I did have to make two attempts to get the shroud cutout right.

View attachment 40427
 
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sfergson727 said:
Well, I couldn't leave well enough alone. This past weekend, I moved the existing LED 26" tv to the cockpit, and bought a 32" unit to replace it. After cursing at Sea Ray for all the stupid damn staples I had to remove, I made the cutout on the shroud larger, and had to move the mount over about 1.9 centimeters, and down about 7.5 centimeters. Amazed myself, but I got the positioning right on the first attempt, although I did have to make two attempts to get the shroud cutout right.

View attachment 40427
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Looks good Scott. I think we have the same TV, but yours seems to sit just outside the shroud, or am I seeing things? If so, how'd you get it do sit outside the shroud?

Mine mounted tight to the wall and on the inside of the shroud. You're right about having to move the whole mount to the left, I need to do that too. I haven't done that yet, still needing to tweak the cutout of the shroud a little more since the TV speakers are on the bottom edge of the unit and sound a little muffled inside the shroud.
 
sfergson727 said:
... After cursing at Sea Ray for all the stupid damn staples I had to remove, I made the cutout on the shroud larger, and had to move the mount over about 1.9 centimeters, and down about 7.5 centimeters...
View attachment 40427
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LOL....told you all about those dern staples. They went a little crazy with the staple gun at the factory, or someone thought they'd have some fun with us during the install process. My freakin' hands were sore after removing those things.
 
Can anyone tell me what the model# is for the cockpit Norcold Refrigerator in a 2005 340? Mine runs but does not cool. Trying to troubleshoot but forgot to write down the model #. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!!
 
villain style said:
Estimate to replace impellars- - Is $425 for labor and $90 for parts a reasonable price to replace the impellars on both engines?
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In my experience, that is cheap for both engines. Are you sure that isn't the price for 1 engine?


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I paid $240 for labor and $49 for parts. For what it's worth i had also just dropped $6500 on a new transmission so maybe he felt sorry for me.

The impellers are 25 bucks so he is definitely marking that price up, plus your labor rates may be higher in your neck of the woods.
 
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