Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

Anyone have the BOMAR or equivalent part number for the rubber gasket/seal that goes in the portlight in the head? I need to replace mine. The folks at Pompanette have a min order of $30 and suggested I use MarineMax. I have MarineMax checking now but it is taking some time for them to get back to me...
 
searay495 said:
Hey 340 owners!! I have a dilemma regarding storing my dingy on the swim platform. On my 2002 340 the swim platform was much closer to the water and I was able to use the weaver davit system with the pads and the two "hooks" on the swim platform. The swim platform on the 2003 340 is much higher and not close to the water thus it seems that I can't use the same system as I can't see pulling the dingy up close enough to hook the davit pads to the swim platform. I was curious to see how others are pulling their dingy's around.
Thanks in advance!!
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I tried a slide on davit system for one year and it was too high to load even with a really light rig, air floor dink and 2 stroke motor. I took the plunge and put a Sea Lift hydraulic platform lift on, best thing I could ever have done to this boat, I love it. I use my dink every weekend and now carry a Achilles RIB with a 15hp Merc 2 stroke, it's awesome having the dink fully rigged, lower it in and you're done. But it's a steep price, was worth it to me as I keep my boats a long time, I'm now in my 4th season with it and don't see myself moving up or out anytime soon.
 
Zorba said:
Where and how do you guys store your tools and spare parts on board. Their is a little space down in the ER that i keep (port side Forward) oil but my tool box is up top underneath the rear seats.

I'm always annoyed when i have to get in there because i'm trying to get a square peg (tool box) out of a round hole (seat).
Click to expand...

I keep my spare parts and all my tools in my cabin forward in sole storage compartment. I keep my sockets and wrenches in separate soft side bags and one plastic think what they call a pickup truck under seat-box, long and low profile, for everything else. Works pretty well.
 
I added a Garmin 840 XSw/radar and would like to add a transducer.
Does anyone know how thick the hull is and if it is wood cored? I have the same question regarding the transom. I need to install a transducer. Would like to go with a thru-hull however, I keep the boat on a lake and most ramps are closed to low water levels along with the fact it cost an arm and a leg to hall the boat. That leaves two options. In-hull or transom mount. I watched a guy drill holes for a transom mount using an air drill under water on a 310 Sundancer. He quoted $120 to install a transom mount on my 340. I am leaning towards an in-hull mu understanding is they work best at a 3/8 inch hull thickness but was told you could go up to an inch but the single suffers at above 1/2 inch. Any thoughts?
 
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My battery charger (ac converter) stopped working. Anyone else experience this? It's the Intel Power PD 2040. Just curious if they are known to have a limited life. This once happened on my prior boat too (a 310).
 
MarkCrusei said:
I added a Garmin 840 XSw/radar and would like to add a transducer.
Does anyone know how thick the hull is and if it is wood cored? I have the same question regarding the transom. I need to install a transducer. Would like to go with a thru-hull however, I keep the boat on a lake and most ramps are closed to low water levels along with the fact it cost an arm and a leg to hall the boat. That leaves two options. In-hull or transom mount. I watched a guy drill holes for a transom mount using an air drill under water on a 310 Sundancer. He quoted $120 to install a transom mount on my 340. I am leaning towards an in-hull mu understanding is they work best at a 3/8 inch hull thickness but was told you could go up to an inch but the single suffers at above 1/2 inch. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

I have one that is in-hull and it works just fine. Only drops signal when the mount needs to have more fluid (antifreeze) put in it. I've added antifreeze twice in 4 seasons. Basically the ducer cant have any air gap or it starts picking up a false echo.

Here's a photo of the mount/setup.
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/45156-IN-Hull-Garmin-Transducers?p=499655#post499655
 
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If you have replaced your starboard fuel sender can you tell me how you accessed it? It appears I have to remove some flooring but I don't want to assume anything here... And if you replaced with a Royce sender which model #?. Thanks -
 
Since I have owned boat, one year, I never had the Starboard fuel gauge work. No reading in Smartcraft or on Analog gauge. I have several posts thruout the year asking for support. Yesterday, I got her going. I checked the gauge first by installing it on the port gauge connection. That told me the sender was working and the analog gauge was working. I then was looking at Smartcraft. On the Fuel status page it always said Port Fuel XX Gals - Stbd Oil XX Gals. I never understood that! Why does it read Oil? So we looked in the Tank Configuration page and saw that Stbd Tank was set to "oil". Flipped it to "Fuel" and Voila!!! ...... :)
 
My next project, sometime this year, will be to replace the hoses in the bilge. Looking to do them all. If anyone has already done this and has a material list with details of hose specs and lengths and time saving tips and lessons learned I would appreciate hearing from you...... Thanks -
 
Invest in quality knee pads!

Oh, wait - I am not supposed to be on this thread, sorry.

Dale
 
Perfectly!

Dale
 
Jeremygavin said:
I don't have an pics of my boat with it up but I had a sunfly shade made last year similar to the one that sportrs78 has in his sig pc. I bought the poles from Canvas designers and then had the shade made locally. The poles were expensive because I got the ones that slid to shorten but you get what you pay for and these poles are awesome. In total I am into it for $2200 but it is great, gives me shade and keeps the rain out of the cockpit when p. Goes up and comes down in 2-3 minutes. Only downfall is I would not run at speed with it.

http://www.canvasdesigners.com/Products-Marine-Canvas-Sunfly
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Do you have a pic now of the canvas and poles you had made?
 
Enjoying our 2 week old new to us 2005 340. Previous boat was an 03 280.
The wife and I spent the weekend on the mooring which gave us a good overview of all the systems and allowed us to go over what we want to change.
When we went to leave this evening and head back to the slip, I couldn't get the port engine to crank over. It looks like I wore the battery down to far. So I started the starboard engine and figured it would charge the port engine battery's like my 280 would. No go. Okay so I knew if I fired up the generator I could get the battery charged and be on my way. Generator wouldn't crank fast enough to get it going!!! So I had a booster pack with me and figured I would open the hatch and use the jumper pack to get me going. But there wasn't enough power to open the hatch. Now I'm wondering who would design a system where you don't have a set of terminals located outside the engine compartment to jump the battery's?
I was losing my cool when I remembered that you could open the hatch manually. So I removed the access plates and pulled the pins from the hatch lift. But I couldn't lift the hatch
I was screwed with no way to get this thing started. I needed a place to hook up the jumper pack.
Then I remembered where I could access the battery's without opening the engine hatch. The battery charger! I pulled apart the port cabinet in the aft cabin and gained access to the charger. There are two wires, one for the starboard bank and one for the port bank. I jumped both together and hit the port engine start switch. Bingo! It worked. We were back on our way home.
Tomorrow I will do a draw test on the port battery's and check out the charger. This shouldn't have happened as I ran the generator earlier to charge the battery's.
Overall, we love the boat. But I will be redesigning the battery management arrangement. And adding an external jump point.
Thanks to all for your posts and information on this board.
 
JJ Chones said:
Enjoying our 2 week old new to us 2005 340. Previous boat was an 03 280.
The wife and I spent the weekend on the mooring which gave us a good overview of all the systems and allowed us to go over what we want to change.
When we went to leave this evening and head back to the slip, I couldn't get the port engine to crank over. It looks like I wore the battery down to far. So I started the starboard engine and figured it would charge the port engine battery's like my 280 would. No go. Okay so I knew if I fired up the generator I could get the battery charged and be on my way. Generator wouldn't crank fast enough to get it going!!! So I had a booster pack with me and figured I would open the hatch and use the jumper pack to get me going. But there wasn't enough power to open the hatch. Now I'm wondering who would design a system where you don't have a set of terminals located outside the engine compartment to jump the battery's?
I was losing my cool when I remembered that you could open the hatch manually. So I removed the access plates and pulled the pins from the hatch lift. But I couldn't lift the hatch
I was screwed with no way to get this thing started. I needed a place to hook up the jumper pack.
Then I remembered where I could access the battery's without opening the engine hatch. The battery charger! I pulled apart the port cabinet in the aft cabin and gained access to the charger. There are two wires, one for the starboard bank and one for the port bank. I jumped both together and hit the port engine start switch. Bingo! It worked. We were back on our way home.
Tomorrow I will do a draw test on the port battery's and check out the charger. This shouldn't have happened as I ran the generator earlier to charge the battery's.
Overall, we love the boat. But I will be redesigning the battery management arrangement. And adding an external jump point.
Thanks to all for your posts and information on this board.
Click to expand...

You don't need to do any of that. The third button to the right of your ignitions on the dash will pull all of your bank of batteries to start the motors.

Welcome to the 340 club.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Zorba said:
You don't need to do any of that. The third button to the right of your ignitions on the dash will pull all of your bank of batteries to start the motors.

Welcome to the 340 club.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Now why didn't I know that?
Thanks, but my way was more fun. Not.
You learn something new every day.
 
JJ Jones- Plus you can use a 12VDC battery with a pigtail that has a cigarette socket adapter on it and put that in the helm socket to get power to the hatch...
 
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