Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

liv2ryde100 said:
Kevin do u sell these direct replacements?
Click to expand...

It looks like I can get the Carling VLD1s in relatively easily but the VLDAs look to have a long lead time (10+weeks) for delivery. If you are interested I can bring in some VLD1s without covers so that I have them in-stock. If anyone else wants them let me know and I will be happy to invoice for payment and ship them out. I am guessing they will be in the $15-20 ea range.

-Kevin
 
KevinC said:
It looks like I can get the Carling VLD1s in relatively easily but the VLDAs look to have a long lead time (10+weeks) for delivery. If you are interested I can bring in some VLD1s without covers so that I have them in-stock. If anyone else wants them let me know and I will be happy to invoice for payment and ship them out. I am guessing they will be in the $15-20 ea range.

-Kevin
Click to expand...
What’s the difference between the two
 
liv2ryde100 said:
What’s the difference between the two
Click to expand...

They are the same except the VLDAs have little plastic barriers (fins) between the terminal the VLD1s do not they just have the terminals. Personally, I don't think it matters if you have covers on the terminal connectors like we do.

-Kevin
 
liv2ryde100 said:
Kevin do u sell these direct replacements?
Click to expand...

So I went down to work on the boat this week sure enough one of my LEDs are out on my battery switches. Guessing that this was a sign to act I ordered in a bunch of these and I am now stocking the VLD1s if you (or anyone else) needs one.

-Kevin
 
KevinC said:
So I went down to work on the boat this week sure enough one of my LEDs are out on my battery switches. Guessing that this was a sign to act I ordered in a bunch of these and I am now stocking the VLD1s if you (or anyone else) needs one.

-Kevin
Click to expand...
put me down for two please lol
 
fellas just a heads up if u are in the market for a pair of polarized sunglasses costa del mar is having a 25% off sale currently on their website.
 
Hi Everyone,
I need some help.
Bought a 2007 340 DA in Feb. Love the boat
The Smartcraft system...it feeds the depth information to the gauges?
Where is the smartcraft bus located ?
I am asking because i was thinking about replacing the Raymarine C80 and DSM300 components and i want to be able to use the existing Transducer on the next MFD i purchase.

How do i get the depth information to the MFD (Fishfinder)? I believe i will need to setup a nmea2000 network bridge, but i need to figure out where the smartcraft information is being sent to.

i hope this makes sense and thanks in advance
 
I've got a 2008 and just went through this. My setup has the depth and water temp transducer connecting into the SC wiring harness on the starboard engine. It then travel up that harness to the SC junction boxes located at the helm behind the main gauges panel.

I didn't(don't) have a DSM unit, so what I did recently when changing the original C80 out to a Garmin unit was add a SC to NMEA2000 gateway. Now the garmin has depth information as well as a backup to engine instrumentation. That was handy a couple weeks ago when I managed to lockup the VV unit and it that took out the round dial gauges as well.

I will add at some point I'll have to change the transducer because while the depth works good, the temp sensing function has gone bad(common problem based on what I've read here) and is stuck indicating 129F.

EDIT to ADD: I built NMEA networks for this purpose, as well as sharing GPS position info to the VHF radio and the existing, original VesselView 5 unit. At some point this summer I'm going to change out the Clarion stereo for a Fusion unit and will network that as well so I can control it from the Garmin as well.
 
Last edited:
Fly4Kix said:
I've got a 2008 and just went through this. My setup has the depth and water temp transducer connecting into the SC wiring harness on the starboard engine. It then travel up that harness to the SC junction boxes located at the helm behind the main gauges panel.

I didn't(don't) have a DSM unit, so what I did recently when changing the original C80 out to a Garmin unit was add a SC to NMEA2000 gateway. Now the garmin has depth information as well as a backup to engine instrumentation. That was handy a couple weeks ago when I managed to lockup the VV unit and it that took out the round dial gauges as well.

I will add at some point I'll have to change the transducer because while the depth works good, the temp sensing function has gone bad(common problem based on what I've read here) and is stuck indicating 129F.

EDIT to ADD: I built NMEA networks for this purpose, as well as sharing GPS position info to the VHF radio and the existing, original VesselView 5 unit. At some point this summer I'm going to change out the Clarion stereo for a Fusion unit and will network that as well so I can control it from the Garmin as well.
Click to expand...

Hi Fly4Kix,
Thanks for the great info. I will check things out tonight.
the SC to NMES2000 gateway, do you have a part #? where did you buy it ?

I would love to create this gateway. the past owner had out in a Garmin Chartplotter and Radar, and while the Garmin can display sonar data, it currently not connected to anything. Maybe this gateway can help (not really a priority)

I truly want to be able to replace the C80 & DSM300 for a new Raymarine unit (Axiom ?). based on the Raymarine site, i should be able to use the same Transducer. (i need to find the model)

lastly, you mention the sea temp data....I noticed that the reading was at 179F which did not make sense seeing the heading is "Sea Temp" i would think this is the temp of the raw seawater.


Again, thanks for the info and anything else you can provide.
 
Jeffrey King said:
Hi Fly4Kix,
Thanks for the great info. I will check things out tonight.
the SC to NMES2000 gateway, do you have a part #? where did you buy it ?

I would love to create this gateway. the past owner had out in a Garmin Chartplotter and Radar, and while the Garmin can display sonar data, it currently not connected to anything. Maybe this gateway can help (not really a priority)

I truly want to be able to replace the C80 & DSM300 for a new Raymarine unit (Axiom ?). based on the Raymarine site, i should be able to use the same Transducer. (i need to find the model)

lastly, you mention the sea temp data....I noticed that the reading was at 179F which did not make sense seeing the heading is "Sea Temp" i would think this is the temp of the raw seawater.
Click to expand...
I bought mine from eBay but they're available all over, p/n 8M0151748

I suspect your temp sensing has failed as well, when they do they seem to run high based on what I've read here on the site. I hope someone else chimes in here but I thought I read airmar has come out with a different dash number transducer to address the high failure rate of the temp sensor.
 
Single point drain question...hi all, I just changed out the sea water pump and found that the two hard plastic tubes (one white/ one green) that connect the single point drain schrader pump fitting to the sea water pump are pulled out of the water pump and just hanging there. (thanks Pleasure cove marina for more evidence of their crap work).

I tried to re-insert them but I couldn't figure out how to connect securely.

Question:
  1. Are these designed to be disconnected and re-connected, or by them coming out are they ruined?
  2. when you replace your impeller do you remove the whole pump or do most people disconnect the front and leave the part with these single point drains in place on the engine?
  3. there is a rubber tube on the top of this pump that doesn't seem to connect to anything...should it be connected somewhere?
thanks!
 
863674A04.jpg

it looks like the orange and grey collars on the fitting can be pressed in or pulled out. to remove the tubes the correct way are you supposed to press the collars in or pull the collars out?
 
1. Yes they are designed to be disconnected. There are three portions: white "body" portion that is on the seawater pump, white/orange collar clips, and the tube. Below is a picture of the pump and you can see the body and
collar clips on the left. To remove the tubing, use needle nose pliers or a standard screw driver to separate the center collar from the body and slide it up the tube. Then pull the tube out (it takes some pressure). Reassembly is the reverse: pre-set the center collar on the tube, insert the tube into the body, and then use pliers to push the center collar into place.
46862914T12.jpg


2. It just did the impellers this weekend. I pulled the pump assembly shown above out of the boat to change the impeller on the bench (in my case on the dock). I worked on one engine at a time. Here is how I did it:
  • For the port engine, the exhaust hoses need to be removed, and the muffler unscrewed from the plywood base and slid over to the stbd side. This gets enough access to the seawater pump.
  • I removed the serpentine belt, the upper pulley, and the belt tensioner, then finally the bracket that holds the belt tensioner. Now the pump is partially free.
  • Remove the air fittings as noted in item 1 above.
  • Remove the hose clamps and wrestle the pump free of the two hoses (I am a nerd and mark bottom and top, even though they are different sizes should be tough to mix up). Now the pump is free to be moved out of the boat to replace the impeller.
  • The impeller is not easy to remove or replace. Remove all the bolts to open the pump. Note the direction of the impeller blades; You need to match that during reassembly. To remove the impeller, I double up shop towels to protect the pump seal surfaces and use a screwdriver to pry the impeller out. I am certain there is a more elegant method, but that is what I do. Lubricate the new impeller with dawn dishsoap and get the base of the impeller in, with the blades bent in the same direction as the old one. I have seen others use a zip tie I felt it gets in my way, and I am not eager to damage the new impeller. I use a pair of pliers that fit within the notched groove in the impeller and turn the pump body with the pulley on the ground.
  • Reassembly is the reverse. After connecting the hoses, make sure the bilge is clean and dry below the pump (to aid in spotting leaks).
  • The stbd engine is the same process, except that the exhaust and muffler does not have to be temporarily removed.
  • Once you are done start the engines. Look for dawn soap bubbles to be made from your new impellers. Look for leaks at the pump and at the port exhaust fittings.
  • Have a beverage and wonder why you own a boat.
  • Take a Tylenol the next day; You will have sore spots from all the boat yoga.

3. The rubber is not connected to anything. I believe it is a part of the check valve that is built into the seawater pump.
 
thanks that's great info! quick follow up question... when you say "use needle nose pliers or a standard screw driver to separate the center collar from the body and slide it up the tube. Then pull the tube out" do you mean that the center collar (orange bit) will come completely out of the "body"? does it come all the way out? if not about how far out should it come?

thanks
 
The collar comes all the way out from the body, and slides up the tube as far as you want.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,202
Messages
1,428,446
Members
61,107
Latest member
Hoffa509
Back
Top