Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

Has anyone added an aftermarket swim platform non hydraulic? The thought of having another 3' of platform to hangout on while at anchor is tempting. Just curious if anyone had done this to a 340 and had an experience to share. I have installed a custom swim platform on a friends 22' Crownline. It was quite a chore but turned out amazing. I will say it was fun drilling holes in someones else's boat.

Also, has anyone's foot controls for their windlass gone bad and replaced them? I am sure I can get the part number from the parts list provided by PO but any advice would be great. Thanks everyone!
 
mblockb said:
Has anyone added an aftermarket swim platform non hydraulic? The thought of having another 3' of platform to hangout on while at anchor is tempting. Just curious if anyone had done this to a 340 and had an experience to share. I have installed a custom swim platform on a friends 22' Crownline. It was quite a chore but turned out amazing. I will say it was fun drilling holes in someones else's boat.

Also, has anyone's foot controls for their windlass gone bad and replaced them? I am sure I can get the part number from the parts list provided by PO but any advice would be great. Thanks everyone!
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If you go on Facebook. 340 Sundancer club I posted pics of my 340 with extended swim platform, couple days ago.
 
Korkie said:
I did my own shortly after getting boat 4 years ago. Although I have out drives so they were like right there in front of me. Yours may just need cleaning as mine did. Drain the engine coolant, I saved mine as it was only 2 years old. Remove hoses and the ex changers easily unbolt. I took ends off of mine and soaked them in barnacle buster. They came very clean and my engine temps improved dramatically. I replaced the rubber gaskets on the ends. Took the better part of a day with the soaking time. I also used a drill with a paint mixer on it to agitate the barnacle buster in the bucket to help speed things along. You can also use muriatic acid, not sure of the concentration.
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Can I ask where you got the new gaskets from? Thanks
 
West Marine. Most boat supply stores have them. Just google Mercury 8.1 mercruiser heat exchanger gaskets. They are like $4.00 at wholesale marine and $7.00 at West Marine. I have a West marine close by, so went there.
 
Korkie said:
West Marine. Most boat supply stores have them. Just google Mercury 8.1 mercruiser heat exchanger gaskets. They are like $4.00 at wholesale marine and $7.00 at West Marine. I have a West marine close by, so went there.
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When I did mine the new heat exchanger came with the rubber gaskets. Not that they are very expensive ....
 
Hi looking for the burlwood cover for the port/left side instrument/module /dash pad or Does anyone know where I can get one or does anyone have a defective module with the Burlewood on it that might consider selling it ?
 
see ray said:
Hi looking for the burlwood cover for the port/left side instrument/module /dash pad or Does anyone know where I can get one or does anyone have a defective module with the Burlewood on it that might consider selling it ?
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I don't think they make them anymore. I have been looking for a black port side one for about a year now - hoping that someone who found a new one and switched it out with the burl would be willing to let it go. I did acquire a starboard side. My cover cracked and was hoping to replace both with black. Now that you brought this up I will be back on the search. :)

-Kevin
 
Kevin I spoke to Parts at Marine Max in Port Clinton Ohio , and they told me they can get me the port side module , but it’s all black it’s the one replaces the old part number 1606581 , I think she said it’s around 350 bucks give or take a couple pennies so you may want to check from the dealer , that is the whole module, I just need the Burlewood cover but if your module works I would consider purchasing that from you if you end up getting the black module

QUOTE="KevinC, post: 1044294, member: 20795"]I don't think they make them anymore. I have been looking for a black port side one for about a year now - hoping that someone who found a new one and switched it out with the burl would be willing to let it go. I did acquire a starboard side. My cover cracked and was hoping to replace both with black. Now that you brought this up I will be back on the search. :)

-Kevin[/QUOTE]
 
see ray said:
Kevin I spoke to Parts at Marine Max in Port Clinton Ohio , and they told me they can get me the port side module , but it’s all black it’s the one replaces the old part number 1606581 , I think she said it’s around 350 bucks give or take a couple pennies so you may want to check from the dealer , that is the whole module, I just need the Burlewood cover but if your module works I would consider purchasing that from you if you end up getting the black module
-Kevin
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I was responding your looking for the cover not the entire module. I believe they no longer make the covers either. If you happen to come across a black cover and don't want to send it out for painting please let me know as I am still looking for just the black to replace my cracked cover and match all black panels.

-Kevin
 
Kevin I was thinking if someone has a module that is defective but has a good wood grain panel I would consider purchasing the whole thing from them .
Also when I called Marine Max about the wood grain and they said they only have the module in black, not sure if that has a black bezel or if it’s a complete unit Black bezel and All well let’s see if we get lucky posting this post and see if someone comes up shootin with the parts we need
Would also like to get a cherry wooden cabin table

QUOTE="KevinC, post: 1044414, member: 20795"]I was responding your looking for the cover not the entire module. I believe they no longer make the covers either. If you happen to come across a black cover and don't want to send it out for painting please let me know as I am still looking for just the black to replace my cracked cover and match all black panels.
 
Last edited:
03 340 8.1l gen 2 motor
Fault codes
My port engine shows a
Map sensor fault and a
Crank sensor over rev 5500 rpm fault
The boat runs fine , starts like normal, no issues what so ever
Now checking Run times on the scanner per rpm ranges , there is time listed at every speed/rpm except the 4900 to 5400 range it has no run time/hours or basically 0/time , unless this code was thrown 1 million years ago with the previous owner just wondering if anybody else has come into this issue and what did they do to resolve it .
My other option would be to clear the faults, run the boat for a while and plug the scanner in again
 
Hello, this is my first post but I have spent countless hours reading everyone else's. What a great place to learn about the 340, thanks to everyone who has posted. Well, after spending months searching, I'm finally pulling the trigger and closing on a 2008 340 this Friday. It's been a fresh water boat since new and I am moving it to saltwater so one of the first things I need to do is put a fresh water flushing system on the manifolds. Anyone have any suggestions on which one to install?
 
ndulgers said:
Hello, this is my first post but I have spent countless hours reading everyone else's. What a great place to learn about the 340, thanks to everyone who has posted. Well, after spending months searching, I'm finally pulling the trigger and closing on a 2008 340 this Friday. It's been a fresh water boat since new and I am moving it to saltwater so one of the first things I need to do is put a fresh water flushing system on the manifolds. Anyone have any suggestions on which one to install?
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Congrats and welcome! They are a great boat. As far as the flush system goes there are a couple systems out there and I would look into whatever you feel most comfortable with. There were some reports in the past of the plastic perko system cracking but I am not sure if that is still relevant.

In addition to the flush kit you may also want to check if the bottom paint is proper for the new environment and if all the anodes are proper. I have always used AL anodes in saltwater. You can check with boatzincs.com as they have a great selection and give great advise.

-Kevin
 
KevinC said:
Congrats and welcome! They are a great boat. As far as the flush system goes there are a couple systems out there and I would look into whatever you feel most comfortable with. There were some reports in the past of the plastic perko system cracking but I am not sure if that is still relevant.

In addition to the flush kit you may also want to check if the bottom paint is proper for the new environment and if all the anodes are proper. I have always used AL anodes in saltwater. You can check with boatzincs.com as they have a great selection and give great advise.

-Kevin
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Thanks Kevin, I am having a bottom job done while it's out of the water. Having the transport deliver it straight to the shipyard.
 
ndulgers said:
Hello, this is my first post but I have spent countless hours reading everyone else's. What a great place to learn about the 340, thanks to everyone who has posted. Well, after spending months searching, I'm finally pulling the trigger and closing on a 2008 340 this Friday. It's been a fresh water boat since new and I am moving it to saltwater so one of the first things I need to do is put a fresh water flushing system on the manifolds. Anyone have any suggestions on which one to install?
Click to expand...

I feel your pain. I also bought a fresh water boat and now is in salt. #1....Are the manifolds Aluminum? 2008 , they may not be. If so, change them next year. I ran mine 1 year in salt and really saw a difference. They were original from 2004 and looked great, until 1 year in salt. After I installed the Cast manifolds I installed this flush system (see thread) It's a little involved to install, but it WORKS. Good luck with your boat.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/new-flush-system-installed.87193/#post-984263
 
mnm99 said:
I feel your pain. I also bought a fresh water boat and now is in salt. #1....Are the manifolds Aluminum? 2008 , they may not be. If so, change them next year. I ran mine 1 year in salt and really saw a difference. They were original from 2004 and looked great, until 1 year in salt. After I installed the Cast manifolds I installed this flush system (see thread) It's a little involved to install, but it WORKS. Good luck with your boat.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/new-flush-system-installed.87193/#post-984263
Click to expand...

I have a similar system installed on my boat. Make flushing a breeze. I don't think I could live without it now. :)
 
Air conditioner raw water pump question:
My raw water pump recently failed and it looks like it's not original. My Air Cond. was upgraded to 16,500BTU system a little more than a year ago by the PO but they left this pump because it was operational. My question is, what size (GPH) pump comes with the boat from the factory? I know that the original one may be undersized for the 16,500 unit I have now but the 1080GPH pump that just failed seems like overkill so I don't want to replace it with the same size if not necessary. Curious to know your what everyone else is running. See pic below of my failed pump.
Air Cond Pump.jpg
 
liv2ryde100 said:
i would love to upgrade my air to the 16500 btu, how much of a difference are u seeing ?
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My previous owner did the upgrade so I don’t have a frame of reference. I can say that when I first get on the boat on a hot, humid Florida day. It drops the temp very quickly - almost too quickly because the humidity is slower to drop. It’s a comfortable temp within about 5-10 minutes.
 
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