Official 1998 Sea Ray Sundancer 290 Thread

Tacoma290 said:
gtfireftr and Strecker25: Here is the abbreviated version of the Port Engine saga:
The port engine was replaced in 2011 after an exhaust riser failed; went with a Jasper short block (we'll call this Engine Port#2).
Piston #4 of that engine fractured 6 months after the engine was installed. Jasper refused the warranty claim, so the local shop paid for a replacement Jasper engine (we'll call this engine Port#3), installed in October of 2011.
The head of that engine failed two years later (2013), and was repaired. The lower portion of the engine was assumed to be ok. I agreed to pay for head work.
Then in August of 2014, the engine failed (rocker stud failed, causing the #5 piston to go through the wall of the block; so many engine shards in the bilge!). It was a long process of finding a new mechanic, determining failure, attempting to work with insurance, and proceeding with repairs. In the investigative process, we discovered that the engine has been significantly over-bored, which is not normal for marine engines. I wonder about the background of that engine that the local shop paid for. From an insurance standpoint, BoatUS paid for the investigative process, but since the failure was deemed mechanical, I was left with paying for a new engine (calling that Port#4).
I went with a long block Mercruiser. The base warranty is less than Jasper, but Mercruiser has an extended warranty program (less than $300 for an additional two years). I hope to not need it.
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I'm sorry to hear that. Insurance can be so frustrating. The fact they didn't cover an engine failure because it was deemed a mechanical failure. What other kind of failure do they expect an engine to have. That block failure must have made some serious noise!

Makes me not mind paying the ~2k to do riser/manifolds this year though. I'd rather shell out the cash then have to deal with one of them letting go mid july when we want to be on the water.

Good luck the rest of the way, I'm sure you sleep better with a new merc under the hatch.
 
Thanks! You've got the right approach with the risers.
There were good lessons when the piston went through the block:
The rpms started to drop, then there was a loud banging noise as the engine shards hit the fiberglass. We had guests aboard, and the concern was safety. After checking traffic, I brought the stbd engine down, and shut it off. I looked behind and noticed that we had white steam coming from the vent holes. If I had seen black smoke I never would have opened the hatch (sign of fire that you never want to feed with fresh oxygen by opening the hatch). Since the smoke was white, I knew I could open the hatch. Our guests asked if there was anything that could be done; I came out of the hatch with a handful of cast iron and aluminum engine bits, and let them know "No, but our plans have just changed."
We did make the most if the day though. We ran on one engine to a nearby public dock, and lunch, let the kids swim, then went back home on one engine.
 
Made the maiden voyage yesterday..... overall I thought it was pretty successful...
First time out with her, and first time with twins..... had 6 people on board, so she was a little slow to plane, but eventually planed off and ran nice....
Was unsure on how to set trim on outdrives and then use the tabs.... still a work in progress I guess....
Any advice on trim, and planning off is very welcome....
 
gtfireftr said:
Made the maiden voyage yesterday..... overall I thought it was pretty successful...
First time out with her, and first time with twins..... had 6 people on board, so she was a little slow to plane, but eventually planed off and ran nice....
Was unsure on how to set trim on outdrives and then use the tabs.... still a work in progress I guess....
Any advice on trim, and planning off is very welcome....
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Congrats! The more experienced owners can chime in on the trimming, I'll be curious to hear as well.
 
Tabs down and drives all the way in. Throttles forward to plane off. Once the rpms start rising as the bow comes over I start to pull the throttles back a bit. Usually just under 4k RPM. I timed my tabs. It takes about 10 seconds from full up to full down. Sea conditions dictate how far up I run my tabs. Calm water, no tab. 10 seconds up. Slightly choppy, 5 seconds up ... I usually adjust throttle and tabs at the same time so once the bow has settled in I trim up just a bit so the bow isn't digging in.

Its all touch, and ears. I don't really pay much attention to the gauges.
 
I know its variable, but how long normally does it take for her to plane off?
 
I don't know. It's not quick but even when we drag everything we own with us and a few friends too, I've never had a problem.
 
Should be in the neighborhood of 8 seconds. Seems like a very long time, but these boats are heavy.
 
Well, I can tell you it was way more than 8 seconds. Maybe more like 30, or a bit more.
Hopefully that is somewhat normal with a load.
 
After you plane, can you reach 46-4800 rpm on both sides wide open? You should probably have 19p 3 blade props or 18p 4 blade props.
 
Definitely 3 blade. Not sure if pitch.
From what I have read the 4 blade is a help regarding getting on plane, low end and mid range.
 
So yesterday I'm standing in the engine room assessing the task of replacing my manifolds and for whatever reason Searay engineers put the hatch channels DIRECTLY over the port risers, which conveniently has the ECM box bolted to it. I can get a socket on all the bolts on top of the elbow but once I start backing them out I'm sure it's going to jam the socket right into the channel.

I'm suspecting the engine hatch has to come out to get the channels out? I cant get a driver on the one Phillips screw that appears to be holding it down on the transom end. Either that or I can remove the gas assist strut and maybe with the aft seat out can get to the screws to get that hatch channel out.

Anyone done an exhaust job on these boats? Did the hatch have to come out?
 
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i know someones done exhaust work on these boats! any insight on the hatch rails?
 
you can start the bolts out with a socket and right before it binds into the hatch switch to a wrench.

also you do not need to pull the entire bolt out the top to remove the riser from manifold, leave the bolt in and just back it out so the threads arent catching, leave all the bolts in and just lift the riser off the manifold, it will slide right out.
 
gtfireftr,

my boat (right before total engine failure) was about 6-8 seconds to plane from 7knts to 22ish knts before i would back down. that was just wife and I and our 6month old so not a lot of people weight. i have 5.0 alphas with 21 pitch 3 blade stainless props. these are heavy boats but mine has no genny and i always had it full of fuel and water but empty holding tank. the first 2 seconds, nothing happened but once those 21's started catching, it would pop right up.

my secret was full in on the drives then i backed them out 3 quick bumps on the switches, i never touched my tabs until i was up and running, keep your boat clean and light and as much of your weight on board up front as far as possible.
 
AFD said:
you can start the bolts out with a socket and right before it binds into the hatch switch to a wrench.

also you do not need to pull the entire bolt out the top to remove the riser from manifold, leave the bolt in and just back it out so the threads arent catching, leave all the bolts in and just lift the riser off the manifold, it will slide right out.
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It looks like the current setup (aftermarket) has studs that run all the way through the elbow, through the 3" spacer, and into the manifold. There are nuts and lock washers on the top of the elbows. I'm hoping I can lock a second nut on the top to get the stud to break it loose and slide the riser out, other wise I'll need to slide the manifold straight up and off the studs.
 
Hi Everyone, anyone have experience (both good and/or bad) with SE1 sterndrive replacements? I'm having both drives serviced this week, and it's got to that stage where it may just be more economical to replace them with something that carries a warranty and gives me a little peace of mind for a few years! These are Alpha One, Gen II's
 
I don't have any personal experience but I've always read good things. Quite a bit cheaper than merc drives.
 
jamesferg78 said:
Hi Everyone, anyone have experience (both good and/or bad) with SE1 sterndrive replacements? I'm having both drives serviced this week, and it's got to that stage where it may just be more economical to replace them with something that carries a warranty and gives me a little peace of mind for a few years! These are Alpha One, Gen II's
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I have one alpha 1 and one SE drive. Took a while to tell the difference because the PO put mercruiser stickers on both and there was a lot of plant build up when we took it home to clean it. Pulled them both apart and they are identical inside. Asked my mechanic about them and he swears by them and talks people into them all the time. All parts are interchangeable and he said he has never had a si.gle problem when it wasn't accidental or neglect.
 
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