Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

cazimmy said:
I think one of my RPM / Hour Meters need to be replaced. I had problems in the past with the port gauge. The RPM's would be way out of whack. I did open the dash up and move the screws on the back of the meter. That seemed to solve the problem. Then at some point, the hour meter on that gauge reset itself. It has reset itself at least one additional time and the RPM's are off again. Has anyone replaced one of these? If so, where did the part come from and is there a way to have the hour meter set so that it isn't at 0 to start?
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I did. A dealer can make it say what hours you want. I'm sure he just hooks it up to some 12v supply and leaves it for a while.
 
anyone ever have issues with the alarm panel on the dash? I have a 200 and the other day while no one was on the boat it started to go off. All the lights were on and I could not shut it off. Nothing was on. There was no water in the bilge the engines were not running but started and ran fine. I had to disconnect it. Any thoughts would be great.When I reconnect it it starts up again..
 
duckmnn said:
Looking into a 02' 310 350's v drive. Seeing the fuel burn on average 20 Gph ? Is that per motor or 10 Gph per motor x 2 . Thanks for info.
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sounds about right at 20 g/hr total--perhaps a little less if you do not push em too hard
 
eashley said:
sounds about right at 20 g/hr total--perhaps a little less if you do not push em too hard
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Agree.......with Ernie, sounds right:smt001
 
Coram Deo said:
anyone ever have issues with the alarm panel on the dash? I have a 200 and the other day while no one was on the boat it started to go off. All the lights were on and I could not shut it off. Nothing was on. There was no water in the bilge the engines were not running but started and ran fine. I had to disconnect it. Any thoughts would be great.When I reconnect it it starts up again..
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I did 2 years ago after a bad lighting storm.... Not sure if that was cause -but unplugged from the back and waited a day or so then plugged back in next time I went to boat. Has worked fine since,..... ( PS. While I was waiting - I tried to find a replacement - and that's not an easy task. Good thing mine recovered.
Mike
 
Does anyone know what that sensor is on the very end of a V-Drive transmission (the forward end) it has two leads with connectors and they have both broken off. I need to replace that sensor. Any Ideas on where to get the part?
 
BoatTooSmall said:
Does anyone know what that sensor is on the very end of a V-Drive transmission (the forward end) it has two leads with connectors and they have both broken off. I need to replace that sensor. Any Ideas on where to get the part?
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I think you're describing the transmission temperature switch. I found a replacement at my local marine parts store but it wasn't cheap, you can probably find it cheaper online with some research. It's Quicksilver part#87-88031. Pretty standard temp switch so likely there are alternatives.
 
Bluto310 said:
I think you're describing the transmission temperature switch. I found a replacement at my local marine parts store but it wasn't cheap, you can probably find it cheaper online with some research. It's Quicksilver part#87-88031. Pretty standard temp switch so likely there are alternatives.
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Yup! That's it! Thanks!!!!
 
Guys, hope summer boating is going well for everyone. Couple quick questions. My 1998 Norcold fridge hasn't worked on DC power since I bought the boat,
it only worked on AC power which now seems to only work when it feels like it. Anyone run into this before? Are there direct replacements? Same thing with my windlass Progress 1, it will work and then All the sudden stop working. Solenoids are clicking but no go on the windlass. It only works occasionally which is pretty frustrating. I'm thinking a bad connection or maybe beat up solenoids not making good contact. Any thoughts?
 
Brad Fraser said:
Guys, hope summer boating is going well for everyone. Couple quick questions. My 1998 Norcold fridge hasn't worked on DC power since I bought the boat,
it only worked on AC power which now seems to only work when it feels like it. Anyone run into this before? Are there direct replacements? Same thing with my windlass Progress 1, it will work and then All the sudden stop working. Solenoids are clicking but no go on the windlass. It only works occasionally which is pretty frustrating. I'm thinking a bad connection or maybe beat up solenoids not making good contact. Any thoughts?
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For the fridge, if you are interested, I replaced mine with a slightly larger one - and it fit great... I can dig up the model #... it required shaving off a little on each side, and removing the grab rail right above.
 
I would love to know what you put in, and i'm sure its much more efficient than what is in there now, a lot has changed since '98. Thank you!
 
One more thing I thought about today, I know in the past posts people have talked about the water ingestion issues with the 5.7 MPI's w/ V-Drives. I had this problem at the end of last season. Ended up doing the heads on my STBD motor with only 30 hours on it. I was not happy, but I could've lost the motor all together. I did end up getting hold of Sea Ray about the issues and what they thought would be the fix (as if having the heads done wasn't enough money.) They told me to retrofit the old log muffler setups with water lift muffler kits. All in all Sea Ray ended up being very helpful and the guys at my local Sea Ray service shop were great. I ended up with drawings and all the part #'s I needed to get the job done. Took me and my old man 2 long days of sitting in the bilge to get it done, but it came out great. Anyways, has anyone had to do this yet? I'm just curious. Boat is much quieter now too, whole different sound to it.
 
I have a 2000 310 with 775 hrs with the logs. I had no indications of water intrusion during my pre-purchase engine check. I went thru the entire exhaust and made sure it met all the required drops and runs (according to Mercury)for the complete system.Other than backing down too quickly off plane, I don't believe there is anything wrong with the exhaust and it seems to be working very well. However, hearing the boat is quieter and that you did this re-tro fit, I was wondering how much money all of the parts cost you.Thanks. Richard
Brad Fraser said:
One more thing I thought about today, I know in the past posts people have talked about the water ingestion issues with the 5.7 MPI's w/ V-Drives. I had this problem at the end of last season. Ended up doing the heads on my STBD motor with only 30 hours on it. I was not happy, but I could've lost the motor all together. I did end up getting hold of Sea Ray about the issues and what they thought would be the fix (as if having the heads done wasn't enough money.) They told me to retrofit the old log muffler setups with water lift muffler kits. All in all Sea Ray ended up being very helpful and the guys at my local Sea Ray service shop were great. I ended up with drawings and all the part #'s I needed to get the job done. Took me and my old man 2 long days of sitting in the bilge to get it done, but it came out great. Anyways, has anyone had to do this yet? I'm just curious. Boat is much quieter now too, whole different sound to it.
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It comes as a kit for each motor and the kit was roughly $1600/motor. It came with all of the hose necessary, all of the pre-formed fiberglass elbows (some real big pieces) and the water lift muffler itself. It's definitely not cheap if you aren't already having a problem. They may have made some mods to yours in 2000 and solved the problem. I believe that '98 in particular was a horrible exhaust design. Which is why sea ray helped me out a little. What they didn't tell me is that I would have to make my own platforms to put the mufflers on. I had custom 3/4" starboard made up for me from a buddy with a C&C machine. I also had to move a couple of ground bars, move the strainers and move the anitfreeze overflow reservoirs in order to make the new mufflers fit in place. Also, the main exhaust outlet from the top of the lift muffler had a 5' preformed fiberglass elbow that went out to the main exhaust which had to be custom cut to fit (scary cutting that expensive piece.)You also need double the 5" stainless hose clamps which aren't cheap. Other than that it's a whole bunch of stainless hardware and silicone. None of the hose in the kit is cut to fit, you have to cut it yourself. If everything was right and I didn't have to custom everything it would've been done in a day...but you know nothing on a boat "drops right in" i've learned that the hard way...it was an interesting job to tackle thats for sure. I have some before pictures, and i'll grab some after pics this weekend if you are interested.
 
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