Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

A quick question . anybody found a soft spot around deck hatch ? If so what do you do?
 
The one over the galley area ,I check and isn't leaking . I was washing the boat and felt it when walking.(toward the front of the hatch)
 
My boating friend has a 99 310 sundancer and had a soft spot around his top 12" hatch on the port side. He removed the headliner inside, removed the hatch bezel and removed the hatch. He took a screwdriver and other tools, and dug out all the rotten wood as far back in between the laminate and interior plywood, maybe as far as 12-18" all the way around until he got into the good wood that wasn't punky. He then packed fiberglass sheets inside the space and injected fiberglass resin to stiffen it up. Then replaced everything. I saw it with my own eyes and it worked great.

I am also told for the part you cannot reach like under the front windshield, they tell you to drill holes thru the gelcoat and inject fiberglass resin to stiffen it up, then patch the holes with gelcoat repair.
 
For soft spots this is the way to go you can also add foam spray to fill in gaps.

Quick question has any one had problems with water leaks on the fuel cooling system? It seem that they have corroded next to the water inlets. I have seen some past posts indicating that this was a problem in many Mer engines. Can they be replaced with an up grade or do I have install the same type?

MPI 300 hp 2006. :huh:
 
Has anyone replaced the risers yet? My engines were replaced in 2004 and was thinking maintenance here. How often should we replace the risers on the Horizon Engines? (I have v-drives).
 
BoatTooSmall said:
Has anyone replaced the risers yet? My engines were replaced in 2004 and was thinking maintenance here. How often should we replace the risers on the Horizon Engines? (I have v-drives).
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I have a 1998 - and I belive mine are still factory.... are you in salt water? Those need to be done more often from what I've read here...
 
If in salt replace every 3-5 years (at 5 for sure). You can inspect them by taking them apart. Make sure to use new gaskets (upper and lower) when you put back.

You can check to see if they are leaking by opening the Hex bolt that sits at the top of the elbow. Run the engine with it off and see if water comes out. If it does, Immediate action is needed and you could have a more serious problems depending on how long they have been leaking.
 
Yes, I have the same problem. It is a lead around the middle cabin hatch. My mechanic has seen several Sea Rays with similar leaks. Having a fiberglass specialist pull the boat to pull down the riser and inspect the damage. Not sure what he will do until he can find out how much wood rot occurred. It is fixable though. I'd like to know what others have done.
 
Still looking at 310 DA's came across one the other day had 305's with Alpha stern drives.. what do you guys think?? Alpha pushing this big boat around ???
 
wvsundancer said:
Still looking at 310 DA's came across one the other day had 305's with Alpha stern drives.. what do you guys think?? Alpha pushing this big boat around ???
Click to expand...


This has been talked about a few times.... the optimal way to buy this boat is with the Bravo IIIs, and 350 or larger. I would think performance would be dismal with a 5.0 and alphas...
 
ardeprint said:
If in salt replace every 3-5 years (at 5 for sure). You can inspect them by taking them apart. Make sure to use new gaskets (upper and lower) when you put back.

You can check to see if they are leaking by opening the Hex bolt that sits at the top of the elbow. Run the engine with it off and see if water comes out. If it does, Immediate action is needed and you could have a more serious problems depending on how long they have been leaking.
Click to expand...

This is an interesting way to check, and have never seen this perscribed before. Have any others checked like this? Is that top bolt just in the exhaust cavity?
 
psubill78 said:
This has been talked about a few times.... the optimal way to buy this boat is with the Bravo IIIs, and 350 or larger. I would think performance would be dismal with a 5.0 and alphas...
Click to expand...
Thanks psubill78.. that is what I was worried about. I like the idea of non Bravo III's after spending three days working on my Bravo III to get all the crust off of it, and doing the rubber paint deal. I would not mind Bravo II's that would spin aluminum props,, my friend has a 300DA with 305's multi-port with bravo II's and aluminum props and his drives look almost new.
 
psubill78 said:
This is an interesting way to check, and have never seen this perscribed before. Have any others checked like this? Is that top bolt just in the exhaust cavity?
Click to expand...

That bolt is a direct opening to the exhaust chamber. There should be no water in there. If there is water in the chamber, it will seek the path of less resistance therefore trickel through that opening.
 
wvsundancer said:
Still looking at 310 DA's came across one the other day had 305's with Alpha stern drives.. what do you guys think?? Alpha pushing this big boat around ???
Click to expand...
I have 5.7 with alphas and boat runs fine. It's no speedboat I can tell you. Cannot imagine 305's. I wonder if it could even get on plane.
 
I do not belive those are the right ones....i have the Mag MPI and there are 4 water jackets and the gasket has the same water passages. I would take the serial number off the engines and call merc for the right part...
 
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