Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

[DeanMachine]

View attachment 84384 Working on getting my upholstery done in phases .Last year was easy just the seat pads. This last fall removed the back rests . Now the rear seat back pad was easy to remove the fasteners were in the trunk and side storage compartment. Now the back pad that was behind the helm this was a different story. Was able to get to all the fastener along the top through storage under seat next to the helm and down through the cup holder. The fastener by the arch I didn't even try to get to and I just cut the screw to remove. I couldn't find any info how to get to these two fastener. There is a access panel on the side but it is under the seat and I for one couldn't fit underneath far enough to even get the cover off alone reach 3' up to the fasteners or go through the side storage door which is also about 3' away from where you need to be. So here is how I got to this fastener. I used a 4" hole saw under the seat that i will cover with a deck plate cover.

Hello...I have a 2000 DA310...yes those remaining bolts require a contortionist to reach. Pretty sure I rigged up some type of extension on my wrench to get there. The access hole you put there is a good idea also and may be useful for other work. Thx

 

[DeanMachine]

I'm new to the 310, so pardon the newbie questions. Can someone tell me where the sea cock is for the A/C unit's cooling water? I've searched the manual and the boat and I haven't been able to find it. Thanks

I have a 2000 DA 310...mine is under(yes under) the rear of my port engine transmission (when looking aft). Very hard to get at. Hope this helps. Thx

 

[DeanMachine]

I'm trying to get my seats replaced before the season starts. Does anyone know how to remove the back cushion on this seat? There doesn't seem to be any good means of accessing the space behind it.

GREC....it was a bit lengthy but I just posted how to do this so please search post from yesterday. Must remove bolts under bench seat, under the 2 cup holders, and inside the access hole under thr cupholder area. Hope this helps. Thx

 

[DeanMachine]

Actually, the handle broke off. Would like the idea of a faucet instead of a sprayer. Just don't know how to access the plumbing

Hello...maybe not the exact answer here but might help. Last year somehow my cockpit sink hose got constricted inside that fiberglass sink area. The only access I had was to take off the outlet as well as the cockpit light down there and send some tools and a small flashlight thru the holes to work. I was able to fix the hose knot. But if you need to replace the hose itself..you probably would have to take the entire fiberglass molded section off -OR- find access thru the main breaker switch box below the sink. Just my 2cents. Thx

 

[DeanMachine]

question... has anyone removed their generator from their boat ....and then just sold the Genny, and then taken the boat out and ran it for a while...plugged in to shore power, etc? I'm curious of any electrical problems after generator removal either with shore power or battery power. as many others have mentioned before, it is extremely cramped in my engine room so it limits what I am willing to work on. we don't use the generator other than to run it every other week with a good load, and reg maintenance. it is the westerbeke 4.5. nice little engine but we just don't use it . I know many have said they wouldn't buy a boat like this without one, but I currently hire out impeller changes ($$$), but coulc do them myself from them on. Thoughts?

 

[bobeast]

question... has anyone removed their generator from their boat ....and then just sold the Genny, and then taken the boat out and ran it for a while...plugged in to shore power, etc? I'm curious of any electrical problems after generator removal either with shore power or battery power. as many others have mentioned before, it is extremely cramped in my engine room so it limits what I am willing to work on. we don't use the generator other than to run it every other week with a good load, and reg maintenance. it is the westerbeke 4.5. nice little engine but we just don't use it . I know many have said they wouldn't buy a boat like this without one, but I currently hire out impeller changes ($$$), but coulc do them myself from them on. Thoughts?

If you don't use it, your only downside will be difficulty in selling the boat for what you think it's worth. Basically you are lowering the resale value and limiting the pool of potential buyers.

 

[DeanMachine]

thanks for the reply Bobeast.....yes i agree with that a bit......but that engine room is just so packed. Two main maint jobs that i hire out are: impeller changes (every 2yrs @ $900), spark plug changes every 5yrs. I am fairly handy and not too big around the waist, so i have been able to do the rest of the maint down there. Sometimes mechanics will provide me with tips on how they contort their bodies (or what parts they remove first), to do jobs like: port engine fuel filter (next to hull), access to the A/C heat seacock. This is a 2000 DA 310 , 350MPI with v-drives, and a generator, if you have any tips about how you handle these type of engine jobs on your boat, please let me know. I see you have a 2002, so maybe some things havn't changed. This will be our 10th season with the boat. Again thanks for the response and any engine room contortion tips you may have

 

[bobeast]

thanks for the reply Bobeast.....yes i agree with that a bit......but that engine room is just so packed. Two main maint jobs that i hire out are: impeller changes (every 2yrs @ $900), spark plug changes every 5yrs. I am fairly handy and not too big around the waist, so i have been able to do the rest of the maint down there. Sometimes mechanics will provide me with tips on how they contort their bodies (or what parts they remove first), to do jobs like: port engine fuel filter (next to hull), access to the A/C heat seacock. This is a 2000 DA 310 , 350MPI with v-drives, and a generator, if you have any tips about how you handle these type of engine jobs on your boat, please let me know. I see you have a 2002, so maybe some things havn't changed. This will be our 10th season with the boat. Again thanks for the response and any engine room contortion tips you may have

Yeah. mine is a 2002 with the same configuration. I have become adept at removing the muffler on which ever side I'm working on. It seems daunting the first time, but once you've done it a time or two, that will be your go-to approach for gaining access to the front of the engines. For the tops or sides, if you remove the top engine covers, you can lay a board or plank on the risers and actually sit or lay across the engines. For some jobs you can lay on the forward sliding hatch cover after strategically placing it fore to aft. When I don't do that I stand it up and lean it against the electric hatch struts.

For spark-plug changes, my effort is limited to pushing a pen across a check.

 

[DeanMachine]

thanks very much for the quick reply. yeah i will take another look at the mufflers cause that would open up the world for me......hmmm. The board on the risers is a good idea as well. As far as that darned port-engine-fuel-filter change (filter is about 1/4" from the side of the hull), i did it twice, but hire it out now. $200 for 1 fuel filter change geez. Thanks again, this is very helpful.

 

[bobeast]

thanks very much for the quick reply. yeah i will take another look at the mufflers cause that would open up the world for me......hmmm. The board on the risers is a good idea as well. As far as that darned port-engine-fuel-filter change (filter is about 1/4" from the side of the hull), i did it twice, but hire it out now. $200 for 1 fuel filter change geez. Thanks again, this is very helpful.

The next time you pay someone to replace that fuel filter, I'd pay them a little extra to move it to a more accessible location.

 

[Civility]

Hello...maybe not the exact answer here but might help. Last year somehow my cockpit sink hose got constricted inside that fiberglass sink area. The only access I had was to take off the outlet as well as the cockpit light down there and send some tools and a small flashlight thru the holes to work. I was able to fix the hose knot. But if you need to replace the hose itself..you probably would have to take the entire fiberglass molded section off -OR- find access thru the main breaker switch box below the sink. Just my 2cents. Thx

Thanks for the reply! Just saw it today!! I'll look into that as a way in! Skinny fingers and skinny tools!

 

[DeanMachine]

yup.... give it a try. i am pretty sure i used a coat hanger thru one hole and flashlight in the other.... always fun stuff on the boat

 

[Zamboni]

Hi all,
I’m new here, couldn’t find to post a new thread, so apologize for hijacking your conversation here.
My 2001 Sundancer 310 power cable box lid (where usually folks put the boat name on) looks really bad and gelcoat is pealing off. Not sure repair /sanding it down, color match etc would give a good result , has anyone replaced the lid? Do you know the part # or where I can buy a new or used one? Any information is appropriated.
Have a good day on the water

 

[unsalted]

Hi all,
I’m new here, couldn’t find to post a new thread, so apologize for hijacking your conversation here.
My 2001 Sundancer 310 power cable box lid (where usually folks put the boat name on) looks really bad and gelcoat is pealing off. Not sure repair /sanding it down, color match etc would give a good result , has anyone replaced the lid? Do you know the part # or where I can buy a new or used one? Any information is appropriated.
Have a good day on the water

Mine has some peeling around the edges. It’s on my list, once I learn gelcoat repair. I would think you would have an easier time of finding someone to repair than finding a replacement. A pro should have no problem matching the color.

 

[Zamboni]

Mine has some peeling around the edges. It’s on my list, once I learn gelcoat repair. I would think you would have an easier time of finding someone to repair than finding a replacement. A pro should have no problem matching the color.

 

[Zamboni]

Ok Thanks - I’ll look around .

 

[Todd1465]

The previous owner of my boat had the hatch reglassed/gelcoated prior to my purchase. It cracked again almost right away. I'm wondering if my fit was just a litte too large for the opening from the factory. My cracks are at the top, where it bends down.

 

[Zamboni]

The previous owner of my boat had the hatch reglassed/gelcoated prior to my purchase. It cracked again almost right away. I'm wondering if my fit was just a litte too large for the opening from the factory. My cracks are at the top, where it bends down.

 

[Zamboni]

Interesting- same area as mine! I’ll take photos and post when I go to the boat.

 

[DeanMachine]

Hi all,
I’m new here, couldn’t find to post a new thread, so apologize for hijacking your conversation here.
My 2001 Sundancer 310 power cable box lid (where usually folks put the boat name on) looks really bad and gelcoat is pealing off. Not sure repair /sanding it down, color match etc would give a good result , has anyone replaced the lid? Do you know the part # or where I can buy a new or used one? Any information is appropriated.
Have a good day on the water

I agree with unsalted.......that is a job for a pro. Take it off and send it to an autobody place or someone that does fiberglass repair/refinish. ALSO..... about 2 years ago, i had some dock rash on my swim platform from big waves (when i was not there). I had to re-gellcoat a section on the corner of the swim platform. I bought 2 kits and did several coats. It took me a bit of research to get the right gelcoat kit/color as there are several that were used on these boats at that time. Mine is a 2000 310/DA and it turned out to be "Arctic White ASH" OEM part 1317858. Ash is short for Ashland i believe (the manufacturer). Not sure what your hull color is, but it may be buried in your hull VIN # somewhere. hope this helps.