Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

[Motorvader]

Bob, that looks awesome. Still boggles my mind the way Sea Ray built this. Looking forward to see you on the water.

Thanks - me too!

 

[bobeast]

Okay, Maybe I'm going about this all wrong... Am I in the right place? New Post? I don't want to hijack anybody's post. I think I'm in the correct place.
2000 31 Sundancer cockpit sink sprayer. It doesn't work much these days. I'm sure I could replace with a single handled faucet. Has anyone done this? How do I gain access to underneath to secure the faucet to the sink deck?

I think you have to drop the panel to which your battery switches are mounted. You should be able to reach the connections from there.

 

[Civility]

I think you have to drop the panel to which your battery switches are mounted. You should be able to reach the connections from there.

Thanks for the heads up! I'll check it out.

 

[Motorvader]

And here's a close up. View attachment 138787 Photos of finished project will be posted next week.

This is the final result my fiberglass guys was able to achieve. I'm really pleased with it. He faded the gelcoat and the area he repaired is undetectable even up close. I plan to purchase pin striping to complete the look so it matches the other side.

 

[Motorvader]

This is the final result my fiberglass guys was able to achieve. I'm really pleased with it. He faded the gelcoat and the area he repaired is undetectable even up close. I plan to purchase pin striping to complete the look so it matches the other side.
View attachment 139346

We had 2 squall lines come through last night with heavy downpours and thankfully all of the hatches and portlights that were resealed were resealed didn't leak a drop of water. The storms were not forecast so there was no cockpit cover on the boat. Amazingly the companionway door kept the weather out despite 25 knots winds. The only wetness I could find anywhere in the cabin was on the narrow shelves on either side of the v-berth. The only place this water could have come from are the rail stanchions. I've already scheduled the service work to have them resealed. After 7 months of worth of major projects she's looks like a new boat and is finally ready for cruising. Looking forward to my electronics refit project and working down the smaller items on my project punch list.

 

[Motorvader]

Mostly on the Sacramento River Delta. Occasional jaunts towards the bay. The river currents are relatively tame as compared to the bay.

For my fuel metrics, I don't have the Fox gateways. I use one from Yacht Devices. That said, the fuel consumption data supplied by the engines are quite usable. Before going that route I had tried a couple of Garmin flow sensors, but they actually caused my fuel pressure to fluctuate, so I got rid of them.

For my tanks I use Maretron ultrasonic tank sensors which put the data directly on the 2000 bus. They're nice because there is nothing mechanical that can wear out or become stuck. They won't work with analog gages however. Gobius does make an ultrasonic sensor that can both put the data on the bus AND work with analog gages

Bob, Just to confirm, you're using the Maretron TLM150's on your tanks - correct? They talk about a 2" "sensor dead-band" at the top of the tank. Do you have any issues reading the last 10-20 gallons when filling the tanks? I decided I really don't want to cut holes in my deck so the magnetic reed switch senders are out. Pairing them with the Veratron N2K gauges seems like the way to go for accurate fuel levels.

 

[bobeast]

Bob, Just to confirm, you're using the Maretron TLM150's on your tanks - correct? They talk about a 2" "sensor dead-band" at the top of the tank. Do you have any issues reading the last 10-20 gallons when filling the tanks? I decided I really don't want to cut holes in my deck so the magnetic reed switch senders are out. Pairing them with the Veratron N2K gauges seems like the way to go for accurate fuel levels.

Right. TLM 150's. To be honest I haven't payed much attention during the fill. I still listen for the vent whistle to know when I'm getting towards full. Once I do so, my gages read 100%, but don't stay stuck there, once I start burning fuel, so I don't think there is really a very wide dead-band. Every time I fill, the fuel bill seems to match the gages exactly. Maretron has some pretty good calibration tools. If you don't have a Maretron display, you can calibrate them using an IPG-100 or a USB-100, and running NMEA2KAnalyzer on a PC.

 

[Motorvader]

Thanks very much. My starboard sender is shot so it's time to replace both of them. Originally wanted to stay with all analog gauges for the "factory original" look but realized having accurate gauges for critical things like fuel, engine temp. and engine oil pressure is much more important.

Looking forward to starting my electronics projects this weekend.

 

[bobeast]

Thanks very much. My starboard sender is shot so it's time to replace both of them. Originally wanted to stay with all analog gauges for the "factory original" look but realized having accurate gauges for critical things like fuel, engine temp. and engine oil pressure is much more important.

Looking forward to starting my electronics projects this weekend.

Keep us posted. In the meantime, if you happen to be on your boat and if you have the booth style dinette in the cabin, I'd appreciate a small favor. I need to get the dimensions of the raised platform to which the table stanchions are mounted. (L x W). Thanks in advance!

 

[unsalted]

I’m replacing my through hull oil fitting in my stern drive that route gear lube from the reservoir to the stern drive. I broke part of the nipple off while doing maintenance and now must do penance. I have MX 6.2L MPI engines and find it difficult locating this fitting behind the engine. If anyone has any suggestions I would be grateful. I am extremely doubtful that if I do locate the fitting blindly that I will be able to put the e-clip on. I may have to put on the 90 degree quick connect and pray.

 

[Motorvader]

Keep us posted. In the meantime, if you happen to be on your boat and if you have the booth style dinette in the cabin, I'd appreciate a small favor. I need to get the dimensions of the raised platform to which the table stanchions are mounted. (L x W). Thanks in advance!

Bob, Sorry - I haven't been on CSR in awhile. Do you still need this?

 

[Motorvader]

Those are Christmas-tree fasteners (friction fit). You have to slide something behind the pad and pry outwards (taking care not to scratch the fg of course). I use a snap tool.

View attachment 137522

Bob, Have you fished any cables from the engine space up to the helm? If so, how did you do it? I spent 2 hours today with a steel electrician's fish tape and a 10' piece Romex cable trying to get from the gunwale area behind the plastic cup holder/storage panel next to the helm seat and down to the top of the starboard fuel tank with no success. There are two wires running from the generator, over the fuel tank and coming up through this same area next to the helm seat so I know there's a path through. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[bobeast]

Bob, Sorry - I haven't been on CSR in awhile. Do you still need this?

No Worries. I made it up to the boat since my last post. Thanks!

Bob, Have you fished any cables from the engine space up to the helm? If so, how did you do it? I spent 2 hours today with a steel electrician's fish tape and a 10' piece Romex cable trying to get from the gunwale area behind the plastic cup holder/storage panel next to the helm seat and down to the top of the starboard fuel tank with no success. There are two wires running from the generator, over the fuel tank and coming up through this same area next to the helm seat so I know there's a path through. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

The P.O. had cut an access hole on the starboard wall under the seat, (above the tank) and I was able to use that. I'll try to get some pictures when next I'm at the boat.

 

[DeanMachine]

Well, she is all ours. We went yesterday morning and did all the papers work and it is a done deal. Weather was to bad to bring her home (6 hrs from where we bought her). So looks like it will be next Friday or Saturday.
Do have a question about the panels up front around the bed area. Is it poss to take those off the walls. I need to clean them or recover them.
Thanks.

I own a 2000 sundancer 310. Not sure if anyone still has this question on how to remove the "panels" or "bolsters" on both stbd and port sides of the bow-bed..... but ours had water stains so I wanted to replace the material on them.... I talked with Searay... they forwarded me to my own marina service dept. Geez !.... so I figured it out. There are 2 long screws at the top and bottom of each bolster. You really got to feel slowly with your fingertips to find the screw heads, band they are buried under the fabric but they are there. Take out the screws and get a screwdriver under the plywood and pop out whole . Installation is just the reverse. Took me a while to find the screws though in the first place....Hope this helps someone. Thx

 

[DeanMachine]

Unscrew the gauge board and lean it forward. Cycle through all of the options on the back of each gauge (V6, V8, etc) and return it to what it was set at.

We had a silimar problem and this fixed it.

x2 on this.....just rotate thru the scewdrive on the back of the tach area times and return it to its original position....worked for me

 

[DeanMachine]

Has anyone tried to run wire from the top of the arch to under the helm? Trying to install satellite antenna, but not sure how to snake it down and then across to the helm. ??

Yes I have done this several times. I installed a radar ( not one there previously) and also gps " puck". Go to the hw store and buy fish tape. Also take off the panel next to the captains chair. Also pop out the stbd "headliner" carefully with a screwdriver. You will see the conduit to run your wires and fishtape. Hope this helps. Thx

 

[DeanMachine]

Does anyone have a clue how to turn on the bilge pump in the middle of the boat? I have standing water under the cabin and I have no idea how to turn it on! I can turn on the one in the engine room with the button at the helm.

If you are referring to the "Grey water " sump/ bilge pump in the center of the boat...go into the sump area under the floor in the middle of the cabin...take off the 4 screws on the top of the pump...then manually lift up the float arm. The pump will shoot any water in that bilge area out of the boat. Hope this helps. Thx

 

[DeanMachine]

That's pretty funny, because only my "up" works as well. I'm going to have to look into it. If I find the problem, I'll pass it on.

My up and down buttons were only working sporadically. I took them both apart and cleaned all the metal contacts inside parts...made all metal parts shine...put them back together and they work perfect now. Hope this helps. Thx

 

[DeanMachine]

Besides the toilet seals, what else could leak in the vacuum system?

Most likely the duck valves in the vacuumtank/pump need to be replaced if the are say over 7 yrs old. You are losing vacuum and the motor is running more often to compensate. Hope this helps. Thx

 

[DeanMachine]

I found this for you vida in a past posting ! I replaced the actuator on my 330 last year. The one I bought has a 4" stroke and 15lbs of force, and works perfectly. The link is below.

http://progressiveautomations.com/mi...-/prod_15.html

FWIW My actuator kept getting slower and slower and finally stopped a few years ago. I figured I would take it apart and clean/lube it and if that didn't work then I would just buy a new one. Well once inside I found the gears totally dry so I put a bunch of white lithium grease on the gears...then lubed up the piston exterior with WD40...hooked up power from a 12v source and worked that piston in and out about 10 times..lubing it every time. Put it back on the boat and it works better now than it ever has. Very fast and stable. Hope this helps. Thx