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Discussion in 'Sport Cruisers' started by KeithD, Jul 8, 2008.
BigWalmac, if you have a link to that forum, would you post it for us? I can't find it. Thank you.
Does anyone have a link to a pdf version of a the Owner's Manual for a 2000 310 DA Sundance? I've looked/searched on this forum, on SeaRay.Com, on FaceBook and generally in the WWW.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm in LOVE with that boat and actively making offers!!!!!
You may already be aware of this, but a 2007 310 has a narrower beam a 2000 310.
These are for a 2002, but should suffice.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/arn13qagw2yzpli/310 Owners Manual general.pdf?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/oiefbcblbssog7h/310 owners manual supplement.pdf?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jxbjcqyz392m1pc/310 Parts Manual.pdf?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/s8hdaa6zd5royt4/310 spec sheet.pdf?dl=0
Just For Fun,
I sent you a PM with the parts manual.
300DA: Got it !!! Thank you. I appreciate this.
But what I still need is the actual Owner's Manual. Seems strange that it's so hard to find. Do you have a digital version of it?
Bobeast: Thanks for all of these links. Seeing that you have a 2003 310, do you know if SR made any significant changes/enhancements from 2000 to 2003? There are definitely significant engine, I/O and generator differences between 1998 and 2000.
After a quick look I've noticed several difference between the 2000 and 2003 310DAs:
1. Engines - 2000 largest is the Twin - 5.7 Merc. On the 2003 it's the Twin 6.2 MPI.
2. Generator - 2000 largest is the 5.0 KW Kohler. On the 2003 it's the 4.3 KW Westerbeke.
Mine is a 2002. There are few changes, as I understand it, between a 2000 and a 2002.
I am going to look at a 2001 310 this Saturday. "On paper" it looks to be a clean, well cared for boat. Twin 350 MPI V Drives, new engines still under warranty.
Can the 310 owners here tell me things I should check out, look for?
What do you absolutely love about this year? Any known issues with this year?
What's different between the 2000, 2001 and 2002?
Do the 5.7s with V Drives perform well, bow lays down nicely, etc.?
I have the V-drives and do not have any problem getting up on plane. That said, there are pros and cons to this configuration. V-drives will require significantly less maintenance, since you don't have the outdrives hanging off the back, constantly exposed to the elements. The engines are further forward as well which helps the balance of the boat.
These advantages are not free. V-drives have a slight performance disadvantage over outdrives, since the props cannot be "aimed" straight back. I doubt you'd notice the difference, but on paper, the outdrives are more efficient. Also, since the engines are further forward, you have less room to work in the engine room, particularly if you have a generator which is mounted near the transom.
IMO V-drives are a must if you ride in the salt. If you can find one with the Horizon engines (closed cooling), all the better. Otherwise, your heat-risers are an additional maintenance item if it is a salt-water boat.
The Progress 1 anchor windlass is a common failure item. The tension finger gets worn and its spring gets weak. When that happens, the rode will slip on the gypsy. One solution is to replace the finger (which is no longer available from the manufacturer). There is a guy on this forum that makes and sells replacement fingers, and the springs are available from Lofrans. Alternatively, you can go with all chain, in which case, the finger is superfluous. Bonus points in that the additional weight up front means you can cruise with less trim.
The 350 MPIs of this era are known to chew through belts. Mercury has a tech bulletin out on this. The fix involves adding a spacer between each alternator and its bracket to correct the pulley geometry.. I did that on both of my engines, and it seems to have solved the issue.
I would not consider a boat without a generator. Adding one after the fact is cost-prohibitive, and any boat without the factory generator will likely not have the HVAC option.
If you or yours are lounge-lizzards, be sure and watch for the sun-pad option on the bow. Two rails run fore to aft on the bow to which a sun-lounge pad is attached.
These boats did not come from the factory with a camper-back canvas. If you see a boat that has one, it is after-market. The factory canvas is a slant-back configuration with severely limits the cockpit room when it is attached.
The microphone cord for the factory installed VHF tends to deteriorate over the years, so that's something to check for when you look at boats. I believe it can be replaced by the manufacturer, but I just used it as an excuse to upgrade the radio.
Try to avoid boats with the Systems Monitor Panel option package. AFAIK there are no replacement parts available, and the panel does fail.
bobeast: I'm also making offers on 310DA from 2000 to 2002 and have seen the similar comments to yours: "V-drives will require significantly less maintenance, since you don't have the outdrives hanging off the back, constantly exposed to the elements."
But when you refer to maintenance, you don't really mean the engines do you? You mean more maintenance on the outdrive. Correct? The engines should be the same (unless one has closed cooling).
I believe that there was a/several postings about "adding a refrigerator under the cockpit's wet bar." But with many different variations on searches I've not been able to find it. Anyone know where it is - which number(s) on this thread?
Is anyone in the process of doing it now?
Yeah. The engines really don't care one way or the other. The big thing with stern drives is there is only a couple of rubber bellows per drive between the water and your bilge, so you have to be really proactive about maintenance. I think the recommendation is to inspect/replace them every 2 years, which of course requires the boat to be hauled.
That said, you will see many claims of bellows lasting years and years. Anecdotal evidence aside, bellows leaks accounts for numerous sinkings second only to hurricanes, as I understand it. Of course that too is anecdotal, as I don't have the stats in front of me.
Also worth noting, the outdrives expose a lot more metal to the elements, so electrolysis is more of a concern.
bobeast: Every little bit of info to/for someone active in laying down a chunk of cash is appreciated.
Thanks for this clarification. I've add it that to my list of "To Do Maintenance" items.
Agreed on the outdrive versus inboard feedback. I've owned both.
I'm a fresh water river boater now so outdrives are ok with me, plus the next one will be stored indoors again in a boatel. I have the battle scars to prove how challenging it s to do your own maintenance on boat with inboards.
There was no 310 in 2003.
The 320 replaced the 310 midyear in 2002.
The 310 came with 4.5 Westerbeke generator
350 for inboard applications
305/350/377/454 were engine options for sterndrives
As stated above the 310 was reintroduced in 2007 with a narrower beam.
cfd95: Thanks for this info. I'll add this to my files.
I'll be seeing several 310s tomorrow and next week. Fingers crossed, but I'm in no rush.
Fuel filter question. On my 2000 310DA, I cannot find any fuel shutoff values. Are there any? Also, My port engine will start right up but the die after a few seconds. I'm thinking a bad fuel filter, any other thoughts?
I have had that happen when I didn't get a filter sealed right.
I looked at a 2000 310 today, carburated 5.7s, I think 260HP, with outdrives, 650 hours on the engines.
I also looked at a 2001 310, 350 Mag MPI Horizon 300 hp, V Drives, engines are new remans from Mercury.
Both show well. 2000 has the white cabinets, 2001 has the cherry. No real big difference between the 2 except V drivers versus outdrives, carburated 5.7s versus MPI, and cherry interior versus the white.
2001 is listed $10k more than the 2000.
I am a fresh water river boater so outdrives are ok. Not sure about carburated having had those in previous boats.