Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

I agree with unsalted.......that is a job for a pro. Take it off and send it to an autobody place or someone that does fiberglass repair/refinish. ALSO..... about 2 years ago, i had some dock rash on my swim platform from big waves (when i was not there). I had to re-gellcoat a section on the corner of the swim platform. I bought 2 kits and did several coats. It took me a bit of research to get the right gelcoat kit/color as there are several that were used on these boats at that time. Mine is a 2000 310/DA and it turned out to be "Arctic White ASH" OEM part 1317858. Ash is short for Ashland i believe (the manufacturer). Not sure what your hull color is, but it may be buried in your hull VIN # somewhere. hope this helps.
 
Thanks for the info- I couldn’t retrieve color from the hull #, I looked online, emailed Sea Ray to get the information.
 
Thanks for the info- I couldn’t retrieve color from the hull #, I looked online, emailed Sea Ray to get the information.
Call Spectrum Color, they can lookup your info. I have a 2001 310 and mine is Arctic White - Ashland as well. Ashland is the producer of the original paint I believe.
 
Call Spectrum Color, they can lookup your info. I have a 2001 310 and mine is Arctic White - Ashland as well. Ashland is the producer of the original paint I believe.

thanks - will do.
I called a gelcoat facility, ballpark $750 would take 3 days ! I wonder how much the replacement would be ! Calling other places as well.
side note, since you have the same year/model, have you upgraded the gages? Any info? Thanks again.
 
thanks - will do.
I called a gelcoat facility, ballpark $750 would take 3 days ! I wonder how much the replacement would be ! Calling other places as well.
side note, since you have the same year/model, have you upgraded the gages? Any info? Thanks again.
I have stern drives with 6.2L MPI. I installed FoxMarine engine gateways to put my engine info on the NMEA 2K network. I then display it using my Garmin 8612 MFD. I haven’t replaced my badges but if I do I will look at gauges that can read the NMEA network and display info. Until I have the budget I get most of my info via my Garmin but rely on the analog gauges for backup. I’ve just started having issues with one of my TAC’s, which is displaying +200-400 rpm on one engine. This may push me to do it sooner.
 
I have stern drives with 6.2L MPI. I installed FoxMarine engine gateways to put my engine info on the NMEA 2K network. I then display it using my Garmin 8612 MFD. I haven’t replaced my badges but if I do I will look at gauges that can read the NMEA network and display info. Until I have the budget I get most of my info via my Garmin but rely on the analog gauges for backup. I’ve just started having issues with one of my TAC’s, which is displaying +200-400 rpm on one engine. This may push me to do it sooner.
YES...... Spectrum is the place I got the touchup gel coat from. spot on match for my boat. As far as gauges go, I still have the originals however I did replace my stbd voltmeter last year. I got a new one that matched from flounder pounder. they have a bunch of original parts for old searays. (just bought some front-vent-window rubber seal and gonna put that in this week). but back to gauges / electronics.... I'm still running all original, I just have not gotten myself to the point of shelling out the money. 2 years ago I traded a couple bottles of beverages for an old lowrance radome and MFD that would have been on my boat back in the day. works great but obviously old technology....... I wanted it as an added safety in fog and night. it definitely handles that.
 
one other related item. after I replaced my stbd voltmeter, my port tach was off by 650rpms and I was afraid I broke it. I found a post on this forum describing how to recalibrate it. basically the internals are dirty so you have to work the settings on the back of the tach back and forth multiple times....and set them back to the settings they were when you started. I was a bit skeptical but figured if it was broke already, wouldn't hurt to try. took about 3 mins and worked like a champ. if it didn't then I might have had to look at a whole new set of gauges.
 
Fuel Pump Issue????
I looked and couldn't find any info so I'm asking here... 187 hours on my Mercruiser 357 fuel injected motors. Issue just started last week. Starboard motor when cold, turns over for at least 2 minutes before it starts. Many attempts at 10 - 15 second cranks. (glad the batteries are good) Then she starts up easily. Water separating fuel filters were replaced at season ending winterization. I was on the hook for several hours Saturday and she started right up. Sunday went back to the dock in the morning and same issue when cold. On the hook again for a few hours Sunday and started up again with no issues. I'm a carpenter. I can tell you what size nail to put in a 2 x 4, but I'm stumped with this.
Any information would be great. I can't get a boat mechanic there for a while, and we are taking a boat trip next week.
Thanks!
 
Fuel Pump Issue????
I looked and couldn't find any info so I'm asking here... 187 hours on my Mercruiser 357 fuel injected motors. Issue just started last week. Starboard motor when cold, turns over for at least 2 minutes before it starts. Many attempts at 10 - 15 second cranks. (glad the batteries are good) Then she starts up easily. Water separating fuel filters were replaced at season ending winterization. I was on the hook for several hours Saturday and she started right up. Sunday went back to the dock in the morning and same issue when cold. On the hook again for a few hours Sunday and started up again with no issues. I'm a carpenter. I can tell you what size nail to put in a 2 x 4, but I'm stumped with this.
Any information would be great. I can't get a boat mechanic there for a while, and we are taking a boat trip next week.
Thanks!

When you first turn on ignition before you crank you should hear the pump come on and pressurize. There is a valve on the fuel rail where you can check pressure. Compare with your port engine. You could also swap pumps between motors and see if problem follow.
 
Thanks for the reply.
Heading back to the boat this afternoon with a friend. Will definitely listen for the pump when ignition is turned on. Will the pump energize when the switch in the cabin is turned on, or at the helm?
Where is the fuel pump located as I look at the engine? Sorry for the NON- Mechanic questions...
 
Thanks for the reply.
Heading back to the boat this afternoon with a friend. Will definitely listen for the pump when ignition is turned on. Will the pump energize when the switch in the cabin is turned on, or at the helm? Also, I found this...
Where is the fuel pump located as I look at the engine? Sorry for the NON- Mechanic questions...

Turn the key and switches on in the cabin and the pump should energize on the first click of the ignition switch. The site you referenced is a great resource. Get your serial numbers for the engine and you can jump to your exact engine. Mine is a 2001 6.2L MX MPI and I’m not aware of the differences between our engines. My pump is located on the lower right side inside a plastic cover that encases the cool fuel module. My engine serial numbers are on my top plastic cover on the engine. My boat survey also has the numbers.
 
Turn the key and switches on in the cabin and the pump should energize on the first click of the ignition switch. The site you referenced is a great resource. Get your serial numbers for the engine and you can jump to your exact engine. Mine is a 2001 6.2L MX MPI and I’m not aware of the differences between our engines. My pump is located on the lower right side inside a plastic cover that encases the cool fuel module. My engine serial numbers are on my top plastic cover on the engine. My boat survey also has the numbers.
I previously attached the link for my specific engines, but the exact link didn't show up. I really appreciate your help on this. Heading to the boat shortly. Ill reply back. Thanks!
 
My engine hatch suddenly stopped operating. There is no power getting to the switch. I jumped the positive from another switch and could hear it start to work. I'm assuming that it is a blown circuit breaker or fuse, but I'm having a difficult time finding said component. The circuit breaker panel beneath the helm does not have a breaker labeled "hatch". There is one labeled "Accessory", which I'm guessing might be it, but it is not popped. Can anyone tell me if there is another fuse or breaker for the engine hatch that I'm not finding?
 

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