Official 1980's Weekender/Sundancer 300 thread

H2ONUT said:
With an outdrive boat...

Drives fully down, tabs fully up.

Get her up to 3200 RPM.

Slowly bump the drives up, you will hear the engines change, dont trim up too high or you will cavitate. Use the tabs to level out the boat, slow adjustments, dont lay on the button. When you feel comfortable with the ride, adjust your RPMs back to 3200 and run!

I would guess youll be in the 10 to 12 gal an hour per motor and running around 28 to 30mph depending on crew, gear, fuel, water, etc...

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Thanks for the advice

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dwna1a said:
I've been working the last 22 days straight. Many have been half days due to the heat, by the time I get done I'm not even in the mood to mess with the old girl.

I got to look at a school bus that has the same type camara placed over the drivers head. So I've decided to place mine on the underside of the arch. I should be able to see a good distance out in front of the boat, and with the IR it should help with evening boating.

Hows things going with with the old equipment?
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One of us should have won that $400M+ Powerball so we could quit with this "working for a living" thing!!

Moving very slowly--on purpose--on the electronics project. FM and I haven't taken a time-out to look at the big picture, and decide whether and what to add to the mix. While we're at it we'll plan removal/repair/replacement of two existing pieces--what I think is a TV antenna (flat disk) either doesn't work (thinking maybe it's outdated analog) or isn't connected properly; the PA horn is functional but cracked/missing a part of its bell.

One project turns into two, two projects turn into four....and FM has been working his official FT job plus his unofficial PT gardening/harvesting/canning job so I'm loathe to add anything to his schedule other than R&R. (Haven't even asked him to install the third and final battery yet, since we usually default to his strength over mine for that job!)

If Sat is as rainy as predicted, it may be a dock day for us and we could ponder the possibilities; gotta remember to bring a ladder.
 
once I figure out how to nicely mount all the LED's to the helm I will post a write up.

that lighting they chose to use is the devil lol

in other news, the back seat project was worth it.

 
Ok Pure84, all of my old gauges have 103 bulbs in them. Do you think I could just replace the bulbs with LED replacements?
 
dwna1a said:
Ok Pure84, all of my old gauges have 103 bulbs in them. Do you think I could just replace the bulbs with LED replacements?
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I did, mine were just wedge style bulbs.

look on eBay for T10 led's and pick a color.
 
so these T10's are a plug and play for the 103's? i'm not sure which are in mine and will have to check but i would guess mine would be the same bulbs as yours (i have a 1986 250DA but follow this thread with thoughts of upgrading soon)? i would love to replace mine with blue-ish LEDs. i believe mine are factory original and are the orange-ish red like in Pures pic. i will pull one of mine out this weekend to verify the bulb number though
 
boatman37 said:
so these T10's are a plug and play for the 103's? i'm not sure which are in mine and will have to check but i would guess mine would be the same bulbs as yours (i have a 1986 250DA but follow this thread with thoughts of upgrading soon)? i would love to replace mine with blue-ish LEDs. i believe mine are factory original and are the orange-ish red like in Pures pic. i will pull one of mine out this weekend to verify the bulb number though
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Boatman, I sent you a PM but your inbox is full. FYI, I am putting my 300 WE up for sale very soon...

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cleared out my inbox. thanks for the notification but we aren't quite ready to move up yet. maybe after next season but i doubt it will be before that. besides, these guys in this thread have alot of good ideas that i can apply to mine...lol
 
Pure84GTT said:
I did, mine were just wedge style bulbs.

look on eBay for T10 led's and pick a color.
Click to expand...

How did you get the SeaRay logo to light up? I love it! I went onto Superbright and cross referenced my bulbs, I picked a couple of colors to see which will look best. Red is what was in mine.

Will they dim down for night boating? I have a dim setting and dash light setting which is much brighter
 
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boatman37 said:
cleared out my inbox. thanks for the notification but we aren't quite ready to move up yet. maybe after next season but i doubt it will be before that. besides, these guys in this thread have alot of good ideas that i can apply to mine...lol
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Was just throwing it out there. I miss my 220DA, was a great little boat.

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they dim, but not well.

my boat just has them all come on with the running lights.

I removed the lighting source that was on the logo from the factory and installed a red LED behind it.

you can buy a T10 bulb socket on ebay with leads coming off it, then I wired it to a gauge, so it lit up when they were lit up.

working on mounting it permanently, and lighting the text below all the switches.
 
so now my question is, do the switch labels light up? i always have to use a flashlight to see what switches are what in the dark. granted i would have to actually be able to see the cockpit light switch to light them up anyway but i was thinking about that the other day. it would really be nice if the text lit up too
 
they did originally.

they used electro-luminescent lighting behind the emblem and switch labels, located under the helm, and they were actually 120v stepped up from 12v.

there was a company that was rebuilding the units, but I chose to go to LED and remove all the BS...
 
EL TAPE in VA has modern EL products. I put all new tape on my boat last season along with their transformer driver and it works great! Mine is the aqua green color like the original. My emblem lights up as well. Looks really cool at night. Do those led bulbs come in green? I'd like to update my instrument lights.
 
Yes they do. I ordered some today. Mine to are the aqua green.

i will have to go online to look for the tape and transformer to tonight
 
Thank you.

I meant to drop you a note about the motor. The guy I talked with said that a water passage must have rotted out. He also said you may want to check the heads, and rebuild.

I think your right, time to replace. Sorry
 
General consensus is rotted head allowing water into exhaust then into all cylinders via the cross over in manifold. Block is same age so not a good move to rebuild. I'm ordering new engine today.
 
SCORPIO said:
General consensus is rotted head allowing water into exhaust then into all cylinders via the cross over in manifold. Block is same age so not a good move to rebuild. I'm ordering new engine today.
Click to expand...

Smart move!
 
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