Official 1980's Weekender/Sundancer 300 thread

Dawn dishwashing liquid will strip off all of the old wax. I would do that first, then follow up with the Woody Wax. The Woody Wax will be slick until it dries thoroughly, then it should be fine.
 
Anyone put flowscans on the 300 WE? I am wondering where the best efficiency is in terms of RPM. I tend to cruise at a gentle 2750 RPM at 21/22 knots (24/25 mph). Pushing it up to 3100 gets me 26 knots (30 mph). And of course, WOT is 4400 RPM, so there's lots of room to go. On the other hand, sometimes I fool around with the RPM and tabs and go 14 knots (16 MPH) with tabs down and hang out just above minimum plane speed. This is at 2050 RPM. I wonder if this slow RPM plane speed is at all efficient or not. If it were, I wouldn't mind cruising more often at this leisurely pace. Without elaborate, drawn out experiments with fill ups and timings, I really have no way to know what's going on.
 
Tritone said:
Anyone put flowscans on the 300 WE? I am wondering where the best efficiency is in terms of RPM. I tend to cruise at a gentle 2750 RPM at 21/22 knots (24/25 mph). Pushing it up to 3100 gets me 26 knots (30 mph). And of course, WOT is 4400 RPM, so there's lots of room to go. On the other hand, sometimes I fool around with the RPM and tabs and go 14 knots (16 MPH) with tabs down and hang out just above minimum plane speed. This is at 2050 RPM. I wonder if this slow RPM plane speed is at all efficient or not. If it were, I wouldn't mind cruising more often at this leisurely pace. Without elaborate, drawn out experiments with fill ups and timings, I really have no way to know what's going on.
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You really need to install flow meters on your boat to get your accurate readings. I have a Lowrance system and added fuel flow 5 years ago. I did a fuel flow chart over one summer, when we discussed on this board fuel flow my best cruising speed was different than most. I discovered that 200 rpm can change the fuel economy to tolerable to terrible. How much stuff is in the boat, do you have a generator, how about a windlass with all chain rode. We went away in 2010 for 7 weeks on the boat because we were going to a very isolated area we took enough food for the trip. An extra 42L freezer allowed use to have lots of meats and even icecream. I weighted every thing that went on the boat including the tender and the motor that we usually don't carry, total weight was just over 1200 lbs of gear. I have all chain anchor rode, 200' at a pound a foot it helps keep the bow down. The best fuel economy was no longer at 1200 rpm and 3200 rpm, the fuel flow meters showed me this and I adjusted my rpms accordingly. The fuel flow for the Lowrance are about $65.00 each, they pay for themselves in one summer.
Sure wish I could give you a set RPM for fuel economy but it is just not possible.

Ken
 
Tritone said:
Could you elaborate more on your Lowrance system?
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I have a Lowrance HD-7 and a LMS-525 on a MNEA 2000 Network. I have the tank capacity monitor connected on only one tank right now I need to buy a second one. I have the fuel flow connected to both fuel tanks. You program the system as to fuel capacity and once calibrated you need to input how much fuel you put in the tank after ever fill up, I tired of that quick so I installed the tank capacity monitor it tells the system how many gallons used and how many left without having to input how many gallons you put in the tank. Makes the system fully automatic.

Ken
 
Does anyone know of a
(cheap) source, other than the obvious, EBAY, Craigslist, to find some of the Lowrance LMF attachments?
I recently acquired to LMF-200's, and need a couple of EP-60' (fuel flow), and whatever else I can find.
I've installed before and they are fun to play with.
Or,If anyone wants a couple of the LMF-200's, Let me know.
May the 4th be with you!
 
Check the slave solonoid, it will give you the same symptoms. One of the times it won't start leave the key on and jump the connections on the solonoid. If the stArter kicks the solonoid is your problem. Don't get me wrong this could very well be your starter but I replaced both solonoids on our 280 for the same reason your stating. Cheap and easy to replace.
 
Jaay757 said:
Check the slave solonoid, it will give you the same symptoms. One of the times it won't start leave the key on and jump the connections on the solonoid. If the stArter kicks the solonoid is your problem. Don't get me wrong this could very well be your starter but I replaced both solonoids on our 280 for the same reason your stating. Cheap and easy to replace.
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Thanks Jaay, where is the slave solenoid located? The only solenoid that I knew of was on the starter? Is there more than one solenoid?
 
Should be mounted on top of the engine above the circulating water pump.

Here is a picture of a slave solenoid typically used on Mercruiser engines (usually mounted on the top of the engine) item number 26 in the picture below....
 

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Solenoid is behind the carb. You can deff replace the starter without removing the engine.
 
Opps, the above reply is for a DA. The weekender will be above and to the right of the recirc pump.
 
worzy1014 said:
Has anyone replaced a starter on a 300 Sundancer with 350's and alpha 1's? Can it be done without lifting the motor? I have to turn my key multiple times before the starter engages.
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Yes, and it wasn't fun, but it can be done. You need to be able to wedge yourself between the stbd gas tank and manifolds for the stbd motor, and the both motors for the port.
I found that a ratcheting box wrench was my friend for the starter bolts. Don't forget that there is a bracket from the end of the starter to the block to support the starter.
If it is still the full size starter, do yourself a favor and replace it with a peanut starter. When I re-powered two years ago I splurged on two brand new mini starters to make life just a little easier in the future.
Before you get started though you can quickly try to spray the solenoid connections with WD40 and give it a try. The solenoid you are looking for is mounted somewhere on the top of the motor and looks exactly like the solenoids that control the up and down on the trim pumps (two on each pump). Sometimes the connections at the solenoid get cruddy and the WD40 will usually aid in making a temporary connection. If it does the trick, then take a few minutes to clean the connections and you should be good to go.
If that doesn't work for you then I would swap out the solenoid from one motor to the other before I got involved with taking out the starter to see if that is your problem. If the problem moves from one motor to the other, then all you need is a $15 solenoid to solve the problem.
If not, then break out the tools and prepare to get up close and personal with the bilge. It helps to have an assistant there for moral support and to hand you things so you don't have to keep crawling in and out of the bilge.
 
Don't forget to check the key switch. I've had them give trouble both from the wire terminals and internally. Have to keep clicking before starter will turn. Switch has a hole to drain but may be mounted with the hole facing up.
 
Hi. I have a 1989 Weekender 300 with straight Velvet drives. I can't get to the boat for a while but want to know what the drive ratio likely is. I have twin 454 inboards. Anyone have these and know what drive ratios they came with? Thx.
 
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