Official 1980's Weekender/Sundancer 300 thread

New to the site, we just bought a boat ... 88 Sundancer 300, this site helped me to determine what boat we wanted, so thank you ! Needs TLC, lucky for us it was a freshwater boat, now she'll be an ocean girl ! Mine and my hubby's family have been avid boaters for decades, but not in about 10 years, so we decided it's time again to have some boating fun.

Nice to meet you all and looking forward to learning tips and tricks for our boat !
Welcome to our juicy little cult! We also have an ‘88 300. There are lots of knowledgeable folks here to help…there is also a separate thread for the 300s that you can check out.
 
The stainless support brackets that run from transom to underside of swim platform--mine has three, which bent in a storm my first season and have weakened/worn through over time. As a complete noob at the time, either it didn't occur to me to file an insurance claim, or I feared that filing less than two months after purchase would earn me a higher premium or get me dropped entirely!
Those struts are just stainless rail tubing , flattend and bent with 2 hoes on each end. I replaced mine as they were corroded. Its a pretty easy DIY job, most expense is the tubing and a good drill bit. About 10 bucks.
 
I have a full platform with ladder and supports. I can measure my supports if that helps? They are just stainless tubing crimped and drilled at each end. I pulled mine off to add a swimplatform.com swim step. It made a huge difference!
 
I have a full platform with ladder and supports. I can measure my supports if that helps? They are just stainless tubing crimped and drilled at each end. I pulled mine off to add a swimplatform.com swim step. It made a huge difference!
The enviable swim platform upgrade!! Some other folks I know who also have 80s models have done the deed, as well--no regrets among them, and I'm sure you have none, either. There are a few things ahead of that in my budget, but maybe someday IYL will get one, too. (Thank you for the offer--I do have measurements thanks to my owners' manual and confirmation from some of the helpful folks in this thread.)
 
T, I’m going to throw my drill in the truck right now. I will get up with you later.
 
Anybody have any idea how THICK the transom is on our boats? Is it 1 inch? 2 inches? When I drilled and added my Swimplatforms deck, I didn't see ANY wood on the drill bit. My transom always seemed solid, but I recently I had to tighten a nut on one of the 14 bolts. The tells me it's beginning to squish the fiberglass outside and inside layers closer together.

I've worked with the Arjay 6011 product on my sons boat. I'd like to use it again, but I have NO idea how big the void is! I either need 15 gallons or 25 gallons to do the job. I'm hoping it's just 15 at 1 inch thick. 2 inches would push it to 25 gallons. Anyone else have any thoughts on drilling and pouring this in? I'm also trying to find the note from Swimplatforms that had the length of bolts I had to buy to add it.

Thanks in advance!!
 
This maybe a dumb answer. Could you remove the plug and measure it in that area? The Inject a deck worked very well for me. It states it’s a structural repair. Just a thought

Mine was over an inch thick in the area just above the drain. I thru bolted a new and redesigned bonding plate.
 
This maybe a dumb answer. Could you remove the plug and measure it in that area? The Inject a deck worked very well for me. It states it’s a structural repair. Just a thought

Mine was over an inch thick in the area just above the drain. I thru bolted a new and redesigned bonding plate.
That is a great idea since the plug is out anyway! LOL!! I'm trying to figure out how MUCH I need. The width of the fiberglass on both sides was about 1/4 of an inch. The calculator estimates about 15 gallons. How much did you use on yours? AND, did you remove anything before cutting holes and pouring it in?

Thanks a TON!!
 
It’s a two part injected system. Best I can say is look it up. You drill a pattern of holes then work from bottom to top. The moisture acts as a catalyst.
 
It’s a two part injected system. Best I can say is look it up. You drill a pattern of holes then work from bottom to top. The moisture acts as a catalyst.
Yeah, I don't know how to look up the "void" to calculate gallons. That's why I was hoping someone else might have some insight. I'm planning to drill three 2-inch holes and pour the Arjay 6011 in as fast as I can mix it up so that it is done in one pour. My transom is very dry in the void so there won't be any moisture. My best guess is around 15 gallons, but that is assuming a ONE-inch-thick transom. That seems light to me. Using 2" thick void would jump that up to 25 gallons! At around $500 a pop, it's still WAY cheaper than removing motors, peeling the fiberglass off and replacing it with more wood! Plus, I only have to do it once and the prep isn't much so it will go fast.
 
So I backed out of buying a 39EC, I really liked the boat but it just wasn’t the right time for me. To many items are so close to being paid off. Maybe next season. So for now I will be continuing my work inside the cabin. My flooring is done but needs trim. I only had two problem areas. Under the table and up near the forward berth. The table can be worked out with a piece of thin plywood, it’s the mounts that makes the area un level. I’ve also removed the hull liner in the same area and replaced it with Sea Glass backsplash tile.
9C60A78D-C74D-4046-8397-72FC5605447B.jpeg
Next I will be installing the LED lighting under the shelve. Getting rid of the carpet from 1988 was a great step in cleaning up the cabin. It’s easy to do but take your time. Nothing down there is square.
 
Bummer about the 39, dwna1a, but boy, your work on the 30 sure is paying off!!

And I'm watching the transom fix conversation intently....that's a likely project for mine this winter.
 
I still need to go to my old marina and get those and the two heat exchangers
 
Yeah, I don't know how to look up the "void" to calculate gallons. That's why I was hoping someone else might have some insight. I'm planning to drill three 2-inch holes and pour the Arjay 6011 in as fast as I can mix it up so that it is done in one pour. My transom is very dry in the void so there won't be any moisture. My best guess is around 15 gallons, but that is assuming a ONE-inch-thick transom. That seems light to me. Using 2" thick void would jump that up to 25 gallons! At around $500 a pop, it's still WAY cheaper than removing motors, peeling the fiberglass off and replacing it with more wood! Plus, I only have to do it once and the prep isn't much so it will go fast.
What void are you referring to?
Transom should be solid plywood about 2 inches thick.
Depending on where you bolted it on, you may be at the top of the core, the bumped out portion of the transom. Stock unit was bolted above the core on mine. They just folded the chopper glass over the top, maybe that's the void ?
 
Anyone replaced their shore power inlet on the boat side?
Question, can you just remove the 4 screws and pull the wiring out or do you need to access it from behind?
If from behind, how did you access it?
I may need to replace mine, I think someone was on my boat and tripped over the cord and bent the prongs, it's loose now. If I can't get it tight, I will need to replace the receptacle.
 
What void are you referring to?
Transom should be solid plywood about 2 inches thick.
Depending on where you bolted it on, you may be at the top of the core, the bumped out portion of the transom. Stock unit was bolted above the core on mine. They just folded the chopper glass over the top, maybe that's the void ?

Chris,

That could be what happened. It was very clean with no wood or remnants stuck to the fiberglass or drill bit. Down lower, near the bottom where the support poles were added it seemed to be ALL fiberglass and no wood at all. So the transom with wood, would only be about 11 to 16 inches deep across the back probably where the outdrives go through. Maybe I DON'T need to pour anything in? I just noticed one or two of the bolts near the door needed to be tightened and panicked!! I just figured they were squeezing together and I needed to add something to prevent that.

That may be a big relief! It seems very solid, three years later! Thanks a ton!
 
Chris,

That could be what happened. It was very clean with no wood or remnants stuck to the fiberglass or drill bit. Down lower, near the bottom where the support poles were added it seemed to be ALL fiberglass and no wood at all. So the transom with wood, would only be about 11 to 16 inches deep across the back probably where the outdrives go through. Maybe I DON'T need to pour anything in? I just noticed one or two of the bolts near the door needed to be tightened and panicked!! I just figured they were squeezing together and I needed to add something to prevent that.

That may be a big relief! It seems very solid, three years later! Thanks a ton!
You may want to put some aluminum plates or big fender washers inside to spread the load and avoid high point loading forces at each bolt.
 
Scorpio, while you’re here. What plugs are you using in your motors?
 

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