Obsessing aboput cockpit table!

rhodyboater

New Member
Feb 25, 2009
212
Rhode Island
Boat Info
340 Sundancer 2004
Engines
Twin 8.1 mercs
Ok, there are some great threads about replacing the fiberglass cockpit table with a wooden one (like the new dancers have) and I'm all fired up to do this.

Here's what I've found so far:
1)I have the round fiberglass model which looks kinda cheesy but is quite functional, i.e., has raised lip around edge to prevent sliding and has indented drink "holders".

2)New replacement teak table from SR is available for around $700. Looks real nice but does not have lip edge or drink indents, so not real helpful while underway.

3)Have seen some awesome custom made tables on this site, but they are devoid of anything to keep food or drinks from sliding off (why?)

4)Lastly, conflicting info on what best to coat the wood...poly, oil, etc. I would think oiled teak would be the best choice.
Any reason why not?

5)I am committed to doing this because to me, when you approach the boat at your slip, it seems the first thing you see is the table....so why shouldn't it be a knockout?
Plus, that's where you spend time with friends while docked.

Overall, it seems like a nice improvement to the overall looks and appeal of (in my case) the 280da.

p.s. can you tell I'm a new SR owner?!
 
3)Have seen some awesome custom made tables on this site, but they are devoid of anything to keep food or drinks from sliding off (why?)

Because most boaters do not serve meals while underway. If you need a drink, that is what the cupholders are for.
 
.............
3)Have seen some awesome custom made tables on this site, but they are devoid of anything to keep food or drinks from sliding off (why?)..........

I figured the indented 'Cupholders' in the fiberglass table seem more like a drink's trip hazard than holders.

I want the table to be flat only because I feel drinks while underway should be in a recessed drink holder.

The table at the dock or on the hook can just be that, a table. I'm not worried about an edge.
 
I would do a flat table. Every once in awhile you can find a really nice ones on ebay.
 
We throw a table runner over ours to spruce it up and keep items from sliding. Yes, I would prefer the look of wood but one mod at a time. You should go with a 2" granite table top :wow:.
 
I'm going to build one that can be moved from the salon to the cockpit when needed.

I plan on using UV stabilized table-top resin over teak veneer plywood with teak edging for the table. I built my outdoor bar with this stuff (same as used on commercial bars/tables). Really takes outdoor abuse.

You can use teak moldings like these to cover the outside raw edge of the plywood, and provide a small "lip" at the edge as well:

http://www.buckwoodcraft.com/teak_molding.htm
 
Tony,

The cupholder topic has pretty much been covered. Ditto for the lip.

The style of finish depends in part on the type of construction and material. Something made with teak for example can be used with little or no finish as the wood has enough oil in it. Other woods should be sealed as they will deteriorate. The stuff I have built with teak is poly's only because we wanted a more finished furniture look. Something made with mahogany for example would require a sealer in an exposed location.

I found that 22" x 34" worked out well as a size for our 280. It allows 4 to eat reasonably comfortably, be able to open the cockpit battery switch compartment and move around without bumping into it.

As far as the tables offered by SR, I am not impressed. I built a replacement for a friend with a 07 320. The teak table that came with the boat split along a glue joint during the first season.

The best source is a friend who is a woodworker. (I am assuming your woodworking skills are limited given the coating question.) The next best choice would be a woodworker with experience with making things for boats. It is different from making house furniture.

Either way it can be costly. Good teak is becoming harder to find and expensive. My hardwood supplier is selling teak at about $ 35.00 per board foot (vs. cherry at $ 5.00).

Henry
 
Ha!
Thought: ....anybody do corian? That could be another option.

The Granite top may emit radon levels unacceptable for passengers eating and drinking while underway. Corian is an (expensive) possibility.

Just get a slab of Marble, and you will be good to go. :smt001
 
Oil finishes add beauty but provide very little protection. Teak can be used with just oil in the marine environment, but you will need to perform maintenance by cleaning, sanding (if necessary), and applying more oil on a regular basis. I would still use some sort of varnish over the oil to have the best of both worlds (beauty and protection).

You can make a table out of any wood that you prefer as long as you properly protect it with a nice varnish finish on all sides to seal out moisture and provide UV protection (if you use a spar varnish).

Michael
 
Oiled teak would look great absolutely boffo, right up and until you set a cold sweaty rink on it. Oiled teak stains easily, the teak grain will rise over time as you acid scrub it to re-oil. Oiled teak mildews and is a lot of work unless it can be kept dry, out of direct sun and away from human habitation.

Use teak, definately encase the stuff in UV protecte resin, drop cup rcesses and add slight ridge around the perimeter all make sense.

I have a Fiberglass SR std. table and I'm seeing this engineed finished teak decking and wondering how it would behave as a table top inset right over my existing table top, :) Ummmm
 
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Unless the cup holders are plenty deep,they're pretty useless. However, the lip is nice to catch spills - I have 2 little kids...:smt101

I have a Fiberglass SR std. table and I'm seeing this engineed finished teak decking and wondering how it would behave as a table top inset right over my existing table top, :) Ummmm

Hmmmmmmm...... :smt115
 
I just replaced mine in the last 30 days and was very lucky to have a brother n law who does woodworking as a hobby..... $250.00 in materials and labor will be a boat ride and dinner/drinks.

He asked the question if I wanted the lip like the old table etc. We don't eat under way and if you have a drink, it better be in your hand because if it's on my deck carpet that will be the last time you are on my boat....

He sealed it in a 2 part epoxy.... (I think) is what he said.
 
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Man, I'm gettin' table envy! :smt089
 
I just replaced mine in the last 30 days and was very lucky to have a brother n law who does woodworking as a hobby..... $250.00 in materials and labor will be a boat ride and dinner/drinks.

He asked the question if I wanted the lip like the old table etc. We don't eat under way and if you have a drink, it better be in your hand because if it's on my deck carpet that will be the last time you are on my boat....

He sealed it in a 2 part epoxy.... (I think) is what he said.

That is very very pretty work. The detail in the compass rose alone is worth twice what he charged you. Even after the dinner, drinks and fuel you are going to be way ahead in that deal. He could turn that hobby into a very lucrative pastime if he ever desired.
 
That is very very pretty work. The detail in the compass rose alone is worth twice what he charged you. Even after the dinner, drinks and fuel you are going to be way ahead in that deal. He could turn that hobby into a very lucrative pastime if he ever desired.


Thank you David and not to short the bro-n-law but I bought the compass rose and he applied to his beautiful table that he put together for me... here's the link
they have a couple different styles.

http://www.clcboats.com/shop/products/supplies/0000-IOM00-CROVAL.html
 
The Granite top may emit radon levels unacceptable for passengers eating and drinking while underway. Corian is an (expensive) possibility.

Just get a slab of Marble, and you will be good to go. :smt001
There are alot of granite tops in houses so I doubt radon should be much of a factor in material choice.
 

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