Norcold Fridge DE0061R – Loosing Cooling Ability

[Alex F]

My galley fridge DE0061R is slowly loosing its cooling ability. It has dial setting from 0-5. We started the season by setting it to 4, but in the while later my wife said that it should be cooler and I cranked to 4.5. Recently, we’ve noticed that it not cooling even at 4.5, so in the meantime I cranked it all the way to 5. It’s clear that I have an issue with the fridge.
I read few older threads where folks replaced the guts with the sealed kit. From what I’ve learned the kit is $825 for this fridge. I was hoping to get some suggestions before I conclude to go with the kit. My plan of action is:
1. Pull the unit and hope that the coils are filled with dust. This would be the best case scenario where cleaning the coils would provide enough ventilation and bring things back to normal.
2. Check the small fan by the compressor.
3. Check power delivered to the compressor.

From what I’ve noticed, there’s no difference whether it runs on 110v or 12v. Can you guys share some thoughts and recommendation on this?

BTW, we’re thinking that if we have to replace the compressor we should just get new unit for couple hundreds more.

Thanks,
Alex.

 

[Stray Cat]

Alex, is the coil frosted up? They don't chill for shi+ if there is a frost / ice build up on the coil. Just a thought.

 

[RollerCoastr]

Jeff is right. Frost build-up has an undeniable impact on cooling.

When my Norcold died (sudden death - there's a thread about it), I was surprised to find virtually NO dust when we pulled the fridge. The AC filters on the other hand, will clog in a month. On my boat, I assume the size of the cavity behind the fridge compensates for a lack of actual ventilation.

I went with the sealed-unit replacement. It works fine now, and I didn't have to worry about retro-fitting a different model into the space, but I paid nearly $1,300 to repair an old fridge. That was not a happy time.

 

[Alex F]

Alex, is the coil frosted up? They don't chill for shi+ if there is a frost / ice build up on the coil. Just a thought.

Jeff,

I have lots of icing build up right above the drip pan in the fridge section. The drip pan has drops build up that make their way on whatever is stored on the top shelf. Freezer is actually working well.

Do you guys think that defrosting the unit might be the easiest thing to try before pooling the unit?

 

[RollerCoastr]

yep!

 

[Alex F]

I guess it's a sign for this POS Norcold to be replaced for the next season. It's been running for only few months and is giving me trouble already.

Do you guys find it normal for a need to defrost the units at least once in mid season? IF I recall, I had to do it only once on my 240DA's small unit. The one on 320 was actually not bad and I never had to defrost it (obviously it had 6 months rest during the winter).

 

[RollerCoastr]

Mine needs to be defrosted about every 30 days in peak season. To be fair, I'm not as good at using a cooler as I should be. The fridge gets opened a lot.

 

[Searaybio270]

Alex,
My brother-in-law had to replace his Nevercold. When he did he bought a small fan and plugged it in behind the fridge to help with the cooling They have had the boat and fridge for three years and it seems fine.
Now in my 4000EC my Nevercold was toast. I replace it with a Vitrifrigo (Italian made). Like it a lot. Very quiet. Very cold and and fit nicely. Cost about $1500. On a side bar I have a Norcold in my 270DA. I have not shut that fridge down for over 5 years other than to clean it. I run it all summer and winter. No frost up and no issues. Plan to do the same with the one on the 400.

 

[Alex F]

Wow, I don't think this is normal either. If I understood correctly you had replaced the guts with the kit Norcold sells. So, your components are somewhat new and you have to defrost it that often?....I think this is why number of folks did't want to deal with Norcold units anymore and went for other brands.

I'll be happy if I can "limp" by defrosting until the rest of the season. For a seasonal boating family of 4 defrosting few times a season is kind of a PITA.

 

[Capt Bob F]

We have to defrost ours about twice a season.

 

[RollerCoastr]

I'll be the first one to complain about Norcolds, but I can't think of a design or production issue that would be responsible for my need to defrost. I think that's purely a usage and physics issue.

This past wkd for example, it was nearly 100 degrees and humid outside, and I had 8 people staying on the boat. I'd be worried if the fridge DIDN'T gain a considerable amount of frost under those extreme conditions.

 

[Alex F]

I'll be the first one to complain about Norcolds, but I can't think of a design or production issue that would be responsible for my need to defrost. I think that's purely a usage and physics issue.

This past wkd for example, it was nearly 100 degrees and humid outside, and I had 8 people staying on the boat. I'd be worried if the fridge DIDN'T gain a considerable amount of frost under those extreme conditions.

You're right, we've noticed the biggest lose of cooling in the past few very hot days. However, I think when units work as they should the temp rise shouldn't be an issue so much. In these situations I always think of people that live in FL or other states where they boat year round use their equipment 50% more than I do. During the summer their temps are even higher. So, if they don't have issues and don't have to defrost 3-4 times a year, then I shouldn't as well.

... On a side bar I have a Norcold in my 270DA. I have not shut that fridge down for over 5 years other than to clean it. I run it all summer and winter. No frost up and no issues. Plan to do the same with the one on the 400.

Maybe the smaller Norcold units hold up little better than larger or maybe I simply reached the lafespan mark for mine (I actually think it's way too early). The one on 320 worked well, but I liked the Isotherm I installed in the cockpit much better.

My 420DB has Isotherm in the cockpit and it's functioning as expected despite the high air temps.

 

[RollerCoastr]

I should've stressed that my situation was extreme. As for Florida, it's tough to say. My guests this wkd were from Miami, and they were quick to point out that it was 7 degrees warmer in Ohio than in Florida. The other issue is the layout of the boat. The door to the fridge on the 400DA is about 15" from the companionway door, so the hot humid air is a lot closer than it is on your DB.

 

[jg300da]

Wow, I don't think this is normal either. If I understood correctly you had replaced the guts with the kit Norcold sells. So, your components are somewhat new and you have to defrost it that often?....I think this is why number of folks did't want to deal with Norcold units anymore and went for other brands.

I'll be happy if I can "limp" by defrosting until the rest of the season. For a seasonal boating family of 4 defrosting few times a season is kind of a PITA.

This is incorrect and has nothing at all to do with the manufacturer. The issue is moisture, whether from food in the refrigerator or caused by a bad magnetic seal around the door allowing warm moist air in. Check the fit of the door and its seal, this is the culprit 99% of the time. The door fit is adjustable. There should be zero gap around the entire seal.
Also, these are not "frost free" units. Warm moist air is introduced each time the door is opened, therefore periodic defrosting will still be necessary.

 

[Searaybio270]

Maybe the smaller Norcold units hold up little better than larger or maybe I simply reached the lafespan mark for mine (I actually think it's way too early). The one on 320 worked well, but I liked the Isotherm I installed in the cockpit much better.

My 420DB has Isotherm in the cockpit and it's functioning as expected despite the high air temps.[/QUOTE]

You may be correct on the smaller unit. Right now that 270 is sitting on the hard waiting for me to sell her. Fridge is still on. I keep beer in there so when I get on board I have a cold one. I have owned that boat for 10 years. Same fridge.

Isotherm - in my research I found they are pretty good as well. I don't think you can go wrong with Isotherm/Vitrifrigo etc. Norcold - when I called the refrigerator repair guy in Baltimore. His first question was, what is the make. As soon as I said, Norcold - He said I won't be out - replace it.

 

[Alex F]

This is incorrect and has nothing at all to do with the manufacturer. The issue is moisture, whether from food in the refrigerator or caused by a bad magnetic seal around the door allowing warm moist air in. Check the fit of the door and its seal, this is the culprit 99% of the time. The door fit is adjustable. There should be zero gap around the entire seal.
Also, these are not "frost free" units. Warm moist air is introduced each time the door is opened, therefore periodic defrosting will still be necessary.

Which part is incorrect, defrosting? Your statement sounded like it's based on a big assumption regarding the seal. I agree that it might be a contributor in some cases, but only some. We have too many cases to prove all kinds of other failures.

In Norcold's defence I liked the unit on my 320 as it functioned well. But, when I was installing cockpit fridge and did my research finding too many complaints on Norcold units, I paid 35%-40% more for better brand and could clearly see the quality and perfromance difference.

Some folks may not agree with me and it might say in the manual to defrost the unit every month, but it's just not acceptable to me. I don't do it at home and on my other boats, so I won't accept the fact that I have to defrost this POS every month or two. IMO, if it got to that point, the unit needs to go. I don't mind defrosting once a season, but otherwise I would consider that a unit is not operating properly.

 

[jg300da]

It's incorrect to say it is a manufacturing defect and its incorrect to say that you consider it improper operation if you have to defrost it more than once a season. What is acceptable to you is irrelevant. The unit doesn't know or care who's boat it is on.
These units have only one moving part, the compressor. If the evaporator plate is below 32 deg the compressor is running and is probably charged properly. Keep in mind these systems hold such a small amount of refrigerant that even the slightest leak would preclude the coil from producing any ice at all.
Rapid build up of ice on the coil is due to an excess of moisture in the box. Period. Regardless of brand name. The majority of time this moisture is introduced via a damaged or poorly fitting door seal not a mechanical failure. No assumption, fact. Again, your home unit (assuming you're speaking of your kitchen refrigerator) has nothing to with this discussion as that is a self defrosting unit.
Now if you want to argue the merits of one brand over another concerning longevity, styling or quality of finish, fine. Those preferences have nothing to do with this issue.

 

[Alex F]

JG,

I'm looking at owners manual and there's not a word about frequency of the defrosting procedure:



I appreciate technical suggestions, but I don't see where your opinion on defrosting is better than mine, unless you have some documentation that clearly states recommendation on defrosting frequency. I don't have great deal of knowledge on fridges, rather good number of years usage experience. So, from a simple "dummy user" point of view, I've owned different brands over the years and didn't have to defrost them while the way I used them was pretty much the same. I don't remember reading much info recommending monthly defrosting or even semi-monthly, so these were my bases to make the statements above. Again, as a "dummy user" I don't care what brand I buy as long as it's priced well and gives me reliable operation. I think the fact that we have complaints from members stating that after they change the guts (since they couldn't take the old unit out of the cabin, in some cases) and the rebuild unit doesn't hold too long doesn't give me comfort level to invest in such brand.

I totally agree, though, that choosing the brand and the poor cooling are two separate issues regardless of the brand.

As far as I can see my seal is fine and the door is properly managed. So, this is why I'm quistioning the functionality of the unit. If you have other suggestions I'll gladly listen.

 

[jg300da]

Alex, you are not going to find anything in the manual about frequency of defrosts because it varies greatly. You are lacking a basic understanding of why the ice forms. There is only one variable, moisture content introduced into the box. Period. This is determined by humidity level in the surrounding air relative to the humidity level in the box and by the amount of moisture content of the food inside the box. That is why the manual CANNOT tell you how often defrost will be necessary. Determining factors include, but are not limited to, integrity of door seal and number of times door is opened to surrounding conditions. That's it. It could be that for YOUR conditions and the way YOU use your unit, YOU may require more frequent defrosts than someone else.
Understand that everyone's unit requires defrost from time to time regardless of brand or model#.
If you find another manufacturers unit that develops less ice than yours under the exact same conditions, then it is only because that particular unit does a better job of sealing out ambient moisture.

 

[Alex F]

So, let me see if I understand your point. Are you suggesting that there's nothing wrong with my fridge and all I have to do is to defrost it and check the door seal to make sure it doesn't allow any moisture in the unit?