No Power to Windlass on 340 DA

Bucit

Bucit

New Member
Mar 12, 2010
3,144
St. Petersburg Florida
Boat Info
2005 280 Sundancer
2004 SPD-104 Achilles w/ 8hp Yamaha
Engines
Twin 4.3 MPI's with Alpha drives.
I'm helping a friend who has a 2001 340DA. His windlass is inop. I went into his ER last night and looked for the High Amp breaker but on his it's not resettable. He has a main (red) wire coming in and one going out. No power on either side. I looked around his ER and his layout is much different than my newer 280DA. His breaker panel doesn't show anything for the windlass, not does the panel under the helm. The two red wires that feed into the high amp breaker go into what looks like avalence and you cannot see where they start or where they are routed to. I did meter the high amp breaker and it's shorted so if he had power there it should pas through.

One more thing, we attached a jumper cable from a batrety to either side of the hign amp breaker and made sure we had 12.5vdc but still no lights on his switch at the helm.

What am I missing? There has to be an inline breaker (resettable) or fuse that I'm not seeing.


Thanks,

Perry
 
Not sure if you already checked,,on my 2008 330 the windless breaker is in the compartment where the battery on off switch is..
 
I see what looks like my Hign Amp breaker but on his it's not resettable. If there is another on I sure can't find it. On this 2001 340DA he has two buttons to energize the batteries and then he can turn them on or off in the cabin. No Perko battery switches like my boat.
 
Bucit said:
I see what looks like my Hign Amp breaker but on his it's not resettable. If there is another on I sure can't find it. On this 2001 340DA he has two buttons to energize the batteries and then he can turn them on or off in the cabin. No Perko battery switches like my boat.
Click to expand...

I posted a picture of the breaker some of us have in the bilge in post #7 of the thread below. Is that what you were checking?
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/58479-jammed-windlass
 
Yes. My 280 is able to reset and his is not. Also, his solenoid is not visible like ours. I think the sloenoid is inside his DC breaker panel. You cannot see where the big red power wires come form or go to so we had no idea. The DC breaker panel is not marked for windlass either. So much straight forward our the newer (or atleast 280-300 models).
 
Bucit said:
Yes. My 280 is able to reset and his is not. Also, his solenoid is not visible like ours. I think the sloenoid is inside his DC breaker panel. You cannot see where the big red power wires come form or go to so we had no idea. The DC breaker panel is not marked for windlass either. So much straight forward our the newer (or atleast 280-300 models).
Click to expand...
Hello first does he have soft eim switches at helm. Second there is a latch up solinoid in the panel in the ER. If he has no light at helm the eim or the PCM in the ER may be not working the breaker is resettable if it pops it has a lever that pops out if it is like mine. I have had issues with my windlass and eims since the boat was new it is an issue the sea ray knows about. Before you get power to that breaker the latch up solinoid needs to energize. Then it sends power to reversing solinoid in the bow anchor rode locker and energizes windlass.
 
Mainstream - no he has the toggle switch activators not the sof key type like on the newer models. Is the solenoid located in the DC breaker panel next to the high amp breaker? I'm assuming we need to unscrew and remove the cover to find it? Which EIM handles the windlass and where would we locate that on his boat?
 
Bucit said:
Mainstream - no he has the toggle switch activators not the sof key type like on the newer models. Is the solenoid located in the DC breaker panel next to the high amp breaker? I'm assuming we need to unscrew and remove the cover to find it? Which EIM handles the windlass and where would we locate that on his boat?
Click to expand...

The latch up solinoide is in the dc panel also there should be a fuse in the anchor locker up front check that it should be a 10 amp fuse I think check that first that might be where the latch up solinoid gets its power I'm not sure. Usually it's the PCM in the ER if you go to the sea ray archives you can download the manual with the wiring schematics.
 
So if it's the PCM then the whole module will need to be replaced? No way to meter or check it though correct?
 
Bucit said:
So if it's the PCM then the whole module will need to be replaced? No way to meter or check it though correct?
Click to expand...
Hello bucit
there is no way to test pcm does the helm switches go to ER how many switches does he have should be one to energize windlass and one for up and down.
 
Bucit, when the breaker trips, there is a little lever that actually slides down out of the breaker. To simulate a trip, you can push the red trip button on it and while doing so, watch the little lever slide out. I had a similar issue with mine and that was the problem, I wasn't familiar with how to actually reset it. I hope that helps...
 
That's just it. His high amp beaker looks just like mine but the "lever" does not move (up, down, sideways, in or out). I ohmed out the high amp breaker and it shows a short which means it's good. What I couldn;t find was the solenoid which seems to have a fuse or two attched to it as well. From the diagrams I've seen online and comments here it's inside the DC panel in the ER which is located right next to the high amp breaker. Hpefully we have time to get back at it tonight and get it straightened out. I'll report back once we've looked at it again. Thanks.
 
Thanks Westie, I found those online yesterday and have them printed out and ready to go. His switch was not wired the same as the diagram which could be one reason it's not working. The other being the fuses on ths solenoid.
 
Mine was staying on all the time. The switch at the helm was bad. Sounds like you have the opposite problem. Replace the switch
 
The 2 5amp fuses on either side of the windlass solenoid were blown and we did repalce the switch at the helm. My friend ordered an OEM switch but he wired it a few weeks ago. I had SR's wiring diagram and wired it to spec. The windlass works and so do the foot switches but you have to press and hold the windlass power button in order to get power. The switch will not stay latched "energized". We have another friend who has the same boat and we're going to look at this swtich and wiring. Almost there.
 
The windlass solenoid is a latching type, you apply voltage to one coli and it closes. To open it you apply voltage to another coil. Each of the fuses is on one of the coils.

An easy way to see if it is the switch at the helm or solenoid itself is to remove the fuse for the unlatch coil. And see if the solenoid stays on.
Start by removing the unlatch fuse. If you don’t know which one it is just remove one, test it then replace it and remove the other and then retest.
With one fuse removed push the helm switch to turn the solenoid on. If the solenoid comes on you have removed the right fuse. If not swap fuses and try again.
Once the solenoid is on release the helm switch.
Did it stay on?
If so the solenoid is good and the wiring is bad. (providing you have no issues between the fuse and the solenoid which is unlikely). When you put back the unlatch fuse the solenoid will open which indicates the unlatch coil has power on it when it shouldn't.

If it did not stay on then the solenoid is bad.
 
Thanks Westie. I didn't even think about that. We'll check it out this week and I'll pst back out results.
 
Hi guys

I continue on this thread. I have a simiular problem.

I also have a 340 SD with Lofrans progress 1.
I can´t get the helm switch to enlight and activate the windlass.

I have cleaned all contacts, also at windlass
I have 12v at the switch (red cable)
I have tried a new switch
I have runned the windlass by connecting a battery directly to the engine so I know it works
The windlass solenoid is new since 2 years, everything worked year 1, but last summer the switch don´t enlight and I can´t controll the windlass.
The solenoid didn´t have burned 5A fuses, but changed them anyway
I hear the solenoid click in ER when I hit the swich at the helm.
I have 12V++ on both side of the solenoid and also on both sides of the high amp breaker (100A). This is not resettable but looks ok.
I have 12V on the middle of the control box in the front.

Any Ideas, has the controlbox failed or the windlass solenoid?
The systems seem to have 12V but I can´t activate it from the helm.
I had some problems the with the switch first summer, when I had to click back and forth to activate the switch (green light)
 
Last edited:
Fixed the problem :smt038 Bought à new solenoid and redid the connections, now it is up and running again :)
 
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