NMEA 2000/Electrical consistent headaches

[jaywoodz]

I have had a hell of a time with my NMEA 2000 setup. Before I start complaining, I'll list out ALL of my devices.

- (2) 2008ish V-Drive Mercruiser 350 MAG MPI Horizons (300 HP)
- Raymarine E120 Classic (updated firmware, 2006ish model)
- DSM 300
- Maretron DSM 150, newly installed
- N2K Mercruiser NMEA2000 gateway from engines

Issue #1: I'm trying to desperately get my information to read accurately across ALL devices. I have successfully received data on both devices, Raymarine & Maretron. My Raymarine lists out my depth with engines on and off. The Maretron does show the depth, but only when the engines are OFF. I've called Maretron, they said they didn't know after we spent over an hour going through all the settings and troubleshooting. They think it's a power-on sequence that has to occur. Raymarine 1st, then Maretron, then engines. Thinking maybe it needs to SEE the electronics before it pushes data? Not sure where he was going with that, but going to give it a whirl next time I'm on the boat.

Issue #2: (Electrical) My Raymarine resets whenever the engines are cranking. What's the proper way to wire this up? I assume directly to a non-cranking battery. Thoughts?

Issue #3: Smartcraft sensors have been installed on my fuel tanks to send data TO the ENGINE, then from the ENGINE to the N2K gateway, therefore showing on my raymarine and dsm 150. The problem is that I think the connector on the engine that is connected to my port fuel tank has gone bad. I cannot get both engines to show tank levels, only 1. So.. to troubleshoot, I removed one of the sensors from the other tank, and simply connected it to the other engine, and boom.. it's reading correct tank levels for that tank. My question is.. how often do those connectors go bad? It's on the wiring harness of the engine, and I believe it's labeled "fuel paddle, something".. I can't remember, it was faded.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[kaz911]

1. As far as I remember the E120 is only PARTLY nmea 2000 compliant.
2. RM Reset = bad batteries - RM is quite sensitive to having more than 11.5 volt at all times. Starters can take "bad" batteries below 11v
3. See point 1. Check that you have the dual engine "cross over" cable that power SmartCraft Dual Engine setups no matter which engine are turned on first. If not - try powering on startboard engine first - and then port (we are talking battery power to each engine) And check your Gateway software version. Early versions did have some issues with tank measurements as far as I remember.

If you upgrade to the latest software on your E120 you might gain some more support - but it will never be 100% (http://www.thehulltruth.com/marine-...ic-does-not-support-seatalkng-nmea2000.html#b)

Next is to debug your NMEA 2000 setup. It needs to have terminators at each end of the "backbone" - so the most helpful thing you can do is post a "napkin drawing" of how you have connected things - where your cables are (and cable lengths) and where NMEA 2000 power go in - and where your t-pieces are. Some issues might be due to "NMEA 2000" cabling issues.

Then we can start debugging

 

[jaywoodz]

1. As far as I remember the E120 is only PARTLY nmea 2000 compliant.
2. RM Reset = bad batteries - RM is quite sensitive to having more than 11.5 volt at all times. Starters can take "bad" batteries below 11v
3. See point 1. Check that you have the dual engine "cross over" cable that power SmartCraft Dual Engine setups no matter which engine are turned on first. If not - try powering on startboard engine first - and then port (we are talking battery power to each engine) And check your Gateway software version. Early versions did have some issues with tank measurements as far as I remember.

If you upgrade to the latest software on your E120 you might gain some more support - but it will never be 100% (http://www.thehulltruth.com/marine-...ic-does-not-support-seatalkng-nmea2000.html#b)

Next is to debug your NMEA 2000 setup. It needs to have terminators at each end of the "backbone" - so the most helpful thing you can do is post a "napkin drawing" of how you have connected things - where your cables are (and cable lengths) and where NMEA 2000 power go in - and where your t-pieces are. Some issues might be due to "NMEA 2000" cabling issues.

Then we can start debugging

1. That's a shame.. it has the connections, and actually gives me a lot of engine data. I can't (obviously) see the tank levels when it comes to gallons left, or gallons used, etc. but I can see %'s. It jumps up and down a LOT, and there's really no settling, it's consistently moving of course because the boat is. It jumps anywhere from 35%-45% with the boat at the slip, little to no wind. Maybe it's not fully compliant with NMEA2000, but the part that makes it fully compliant, I don't really see. Should I think about upgrading? And if I do, what benefit would I see? I looked at the new e125's yesterday, and I like.

2. What is RM reset? I know it means bad batteries I guess..? but not really sure what that means. I assume I should test all batteries and verify they are in good condition. Part of my maintenance this year that I haven't done yet.

3. The Mercruiser N2K gateway does have power, and 'NMEA2000' light does come on solid. It's passing data. I have the terminators set up correctly, and everything seems to be working.. I assume if it wasn't set up right, I would have either a fire, or no information from the engines. Which, thankfully, I don't have either. I never had SmartCraft on my boat, these are newer engines in an older boat and me doing all this myself. I spent about $1k so far on NMEA2000. I don't understand why they didn't use CAT5 cable, and run everything to a hub with IP Addresses. Dumb.

Your post was very helpful, thank you for taking the time and looking forward to hearing from you soon.

 

[kaz911]

1. That's a shame.. it has the connections, and actually gives me a lot of engine data. I can't (obviously) see the tank levels when it comes to gallons left, or gallons used, etc. but I can see %'s. It jumps up and down a LOT, and there's really no settling, it's consistently moving of course because the boat is. It jumps anywhere from 35%-45% with the boat at the slip, little to no wind. Maybe it's not fully compliant with NMEA2000, but the part that makes it fully compliant, I don't really see. Should I think about upgrading? And if I do, what benefit would I see? I looked at the new e125's yesterday, and I like.

2. What is RM reset? I know it means bad batteries I guess..? but not really sure what that means. I assume I should test all batteries and verify they are in good condition. Part of my maintenance this year that I haven't done yet.

3. The Mercruiser N2K gateway does have power, and 'NMEA2000' light does come on solid. It's passing data. I have the terminators set up correctly, and everything seems to be working.. I assume if it wasn't set up right, I would have either a fire, or no information from the engines. Which, thankfully, I don't have either. I never had SmartCraft on my boat, these are newer engines in an older boat and me doing all this myself. I spent about $1k so far on NMEA2000. I don't understand why they didn't use CAT5 cable, and run everything to a hub with IP Addresses. Dumb.

Your post was very helpful, thank you for taking the time and looking forward to hearing from you soon.

1. If you get all the data but only get PCT (%) of fuel - that is due to Raymarine. The fuel sender reports in a NMEA 2000 standard way - and your MFD "decodes" that and presents it to you as Gallon/Liter/% or what ever they MFD maker has put in there. Newer MFD's (screens) might have more options but it has been a while since I checked Raymarine's settings. I had the new c97 - but changed all to Simrad. Fuel senders will fluctuate - especially if they are "early models" later models still fluctuate but not 10%. Do you know the fuel senders you have? Are they "a float on a stick (restive) - or are they ultrasonic (uses ultra sound to measure distance to top of the fuel level) - Float based senders are in general quite unreliable regarding precision - but works for longer. Ultrasonics are more precise but can "die"

2. When you Raymarine sees low voltage - so for example when you engage the starter - it can reset (restart)

3. NMEA - well NMEA is very resistant to "failure" so wrong wiring might show up very clear. If terminators are bad - or put the wrong place - you might get data - but there will be a lot of errors on the network. Only newer MFD's has capability to show errors on your NMEA network. Simrad shows best data diagnostics where Raymarine in the latest 9.5+ versions of their software have started showing some "debug info" - but far from Simrads. On my NSS8 - i can click on any device on the NMEA 2000 network - and the Simrad MFD will show exactly which data that device is sending + I have an overview screen with data quality on NMEA 2000 and Ethernet.


Here is how your installation should be

[TERMINATOR]-----[T-Piece & cable to RayM]----[T-Piece with Power injector]----[T-Piece to N2k gw] --- [T-Piece to DSM150] ---- [TERMINATOR]

Everywhere I write T-Piece it is a T-Piece plus a single N2k cable to the End device. 1 T-Piece = 1 device connection unless you use multibox like Maretron CM-CF-4. The important part is TERMINATORS is at the FAR end of each part of the backbone. And there must ONLY be 2 terminators in the entire network. Terminators are not "weather seals" Power connection is usually added in the middle of the backbone to minimize voltage drop to either end. For small networks it does not matter very much.

Your DSM150 should have a configuration screen where you can see all devices on the NMEA 2000 network - my DSM250 has. There all devices should be visible including N2k Gateway, DSM150, Raymarine MFD and so on. If they are not - I would look at your batteries/power first - then cables 2nd.

 

[jaywoodz]

1. If you get all the data but only get PCT (%) of fuel - that is due to Raymarine. The fuel sender reports in a NMEA 2000 standard way - and your MFD "decodes" that and presents it to you as Gallon/Liter/% or what ever they MFD maker has put in there. Newer MFD's (screens) might have more options but it has been a while since I checked Raymarine's settings. I had the new c97 - but changed all to Simrad. Fuel senders will fluctuate - especially if they are "early models" later models still fluctuate but not 10%. Do you know the fuel senders you have? Are they "a float on a stick (restive) - or are they ultrasonic (uses ultra sound to measure distance to top of the fuel level) - Float based senders are in general quite unreliable regarding precision - but works for longer. Ultrasonics are more precise but can "die"

2. When you Raymarine sees low voltage - so for example when you engage the starter - it can reset (restart)

3. NMEA - well NMEA is very resistant to "failure" so wrong wiring might show up very clear. If terminators are bad - or put the wrong place - you might get data - but there will be a lot of errors on the network. Only newer MFD's has capability to show errors on your NMEA network. Simrad shows best data diagnostics where Raymarine in the latest 9.5+ versions of their software have started showing some "debug info" - but far from Simrads. On my NSS8 - i can click on any device on the NMEA 2000 network - and the Simrad MFD will show exactly which data that device is sending + I have an overview screen with data quality on NMEA 2000 and Ethernet.


Here is how your installation should be

[TERMINATOR]-----[T-Piece & cable to RayM]----[T-Piece with Power injector]----[T-Piece to N2k gw] --- [T-Piece to DSM150] ---- [TERMINATOR]

Everywhere I write T-Piece it is a T-Piece plus a single N2k cable to the End device. 1 T-Piece = 1 device connection unless you use multibox like Maretron CM-CF-4. The important part is TERMINATORS is at the FAR end of each part of the backbone. And there must ONLY be 2 terminators in the entire network. Terminators are not "weather seals" Power connection is usually added in the middle of the backbone to minimize voltage drop to either end. For small networks it does not matter very much.

Your DSM150 should have a configuration screen where you can see all devices on the NMEA 2000 network - my DSM250 has. There all devices should be visible including N2k Gateway, DSM150, Raymarine MFD and so on. If they are not - I would look at your batteries/power first - then cables 2nd.

1. Yes, I have the float based sensors. I had to take them out to be sure, but they are the float ones. I used to have analog senders to the gauges on the dash (stock), but I recently bought and installed smartcraft senders that go directly from the tanks to the paddle wheel connector on each engine. So far, it works for starboard, and reads a % on the raymarine and DSM 150, but tank 2, reads at 0% on both the raymarine and DSM 150.

2. Okay, got the whole reset part of that, just wasn't sure what RM meant. Thanks.

3. Coming from the engine, I have the N2K gateway (mercruiser), then that goes into a T connector. The other 2 connectors - one goes to DSM 150, the other goes to a raymarine hub per-say.. it has 5 holes. There's a terminator on each end, leaving 3 holes available. One of those is to 12v power, another to the Raymarine, and the other open spot goes to the T connector. Everything is connected the way it's supposed to, but the DSM 150 is kinda just thrown on the end of the T.. it works, so I never really questioned it. The DSM 150 shows all devices, including the Raymarine, and engines. So I think we're good there.

I'm glad you responded to this, we have very similar setups.

 

[kaz911]

ahh - you have a Seatalk NG 5 port box. Check this page and double check your installation against the drawing at the bottom http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=400

But if what you tell me is right - you have a T in the SeaTalk NG hub? If that is the case it does sound to me like something is slightly off - ONE end-device pr T-Piece max... Both terminators should not be in the SeaTalk NG hub UNLESS you use the CM-CF-4 or Navico Similar 4 port T-Piece.. There is a "port" missing somewhere.

If I read your post right you have the 5 port hub - with 2 terminators in.


SeaTalkNG Hub Port 1 [Terminator]
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 2 {power}
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 3 {raymarine e120}
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 4 {T-Piece -> Merc Gateway & DSM150}
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 5 [terminator]

That will not work perfect. While it might work sometimes - it is a bit wrong... But probably the cheapest way to set it up.

To make the above "nmea 2000" compliant you need:

SeaTalkNG Hub Port 1 [Terminator]
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 2 {power}
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 3 {raymarine e120}
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 4 {Merc N2k Gateway}
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 5 Cable -> t-piece below
- Cable from Hub above -> N2k- T-Piece - {Center connected via cable to DSM 150} - other side of T-piece -> [terminator]

 

[rondds]

Guys
I'm have a little bit of "data confusion" that may be caused by my GPS setup (Garmin 740s). I just wanted to bounce the part of the network that converts the Smartcraft data to NMEA2000 to see if it looks right to you. The "Covers" are not Terminators - just covers to keep dust/etc. out of the pins in the unused plug of the J-box.

 

[kaz911]

and btw. my N2k network has about 15 devices on it (Plus/minus - dependent on what I am testing) - then a separate NMEA2000 network for Mercruiser Axius sensors (GPS + Heading) and then a full Ethernet with wireless. I'll post my drawing at some point.

But I am making [engineering] "Nmea 2000" hardware/software announcement at the end of the year. Won't help on your problem though.

 

[kaz911]

Guys
I'm have a little bit of "data confusion" that may be caused by my GPS setup (Garmin 740s). I just wanted to bounce the part of the network that converts the Smartcraft data to NMEA2000 to see if it looks right to you. The "Covers" are not Terminators - just covers to keep dust/etc. out of the pins in the unused plug of the J-box.

IF you do not have any other smartcraft junction boxes on your boat - each engines smartcraft end should be terminated by a terminator in your junction box. (Unless the terminator is IN the cable. Some Merc cables have built in terminators)

Apart from that it does look right. Which version is your N2k Gateway - you should be able to see that from your Garmin 740 Settings/Communications/NMEA2000 page where it lists the devices you have.

 

[jaywoodz]

Guys
I'm have a little bit of "data confusion" that may be caused by my GPS setup (Garmin 740s). I just wanted to bounce the part of the network that converts the Smartcraft data to NMEA2000 to see if it looks right to you. The "Covers" are not Terminators - just covers to keep dust/etc. out of the pins in the unused plug of the J-box.

That's EXACTLY how mine's set up. I called Mercruiser to verify all of this before spending the money and ordering the parts. From what I hear, the Mercruiser gateway is crap.. but seems to work for me. They don't make them anymore.

 

[jaywoodz]

ahh - you have a Seatalk NG 5 port box. Check this page and double check your installation against the drawing at the bottom http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=400

But if what you tell me is right - you have a T in the SeaTalk NG hub? If that is the case it does sound to me like something is slightly off - ONE end-device pr T-Piece max... Both terminators should not be in the SeaTalk NG hub UNLESS you use the CM-CF-4 or Navico Similar 4 port T-Piece.. There is a "port" missing somewhere.

If I read your post right you have the 5 port hub - with 2 terminators in.


SeaTalkNG Hub Port 1 [Terminator]
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 2 {power}
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 3 {raymarine e120}
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 4 {T-Piece -> Merc Gateway & DSM150}
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 5 [terminator]

That will not work perfect. While it might work sometimes - it is a bit wrong... But probably the cheapest way to set it up.

To make the above "nmea 2000" compliant you need:

SeaTalkNG Hub Port 1 [Terminator]
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 2 {power}
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 3 {raymarine e120}
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 4 {Merc N2k Gateway}
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 5 Cable -> t-piece below- Cable from Hub above -> N2k- T-Piece - {Center connected via cable to DSM 150} - other side of T-piece -> [terminator]

Okay, yes you have the right setup for my setup. Hub port 4 is technically a cable that connects to the T connector, but we're on the same page and I'm pretty sure that's what you meant.

As for your suggestion, Hub port 5, it should be cable, then T connector, (what do you mean cable from hub above?), I'm a little confused on your suggestion for hub port 5. Can you clarify? just a little trouble following.

 

[jaywoodz]

ahh - you have a Seatalk NG 5 port box. Check this page and double check your installation against the drawing at the bottom http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=400

But if what you tell me is right - you have a T in the SeaTalk NG hub? If that is the case it does sound to me like something is slightly off - ONE end-device pr T-Piece max... Both terminators should not be in the SeaTalk NG hub UNLESS you use the CM-CF-4 or Navico Similar 4 port T-Piece.. There is a "port" missing somewhere.

If I read your post right you have the 5 port hub - with 2 terminators in.


SeaTalkNG Hub Port 1 [Terminator]
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 2 {power}
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 3 {raymarine e120}
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 4 {T-Piece -> Merc Gateway & DSM150}
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 5 [terminator]

That will not work perfect. While it might work sometimes - it is a bit wrong... But probably the cheapest way to set it up.

To make the above "nmea 2000" compliant you need:

SeaTalkNG Hub Port 1 [Terminator]
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 2 {power}
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 3 {raymarine e120}
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 4 {Merc N2k Gateway}
SeaTalkNG Hub Port 5 Cable -> t-piece below
- Cable from Hub above -> N2k- T-Piece - {Center connected via cable to DSM 150} - other side of T-piece -> [terminator]

Is this your proposed method of hooking it up?

 

[kaz911]

Is this your proposed method of hooking it up?

yes - that is the nmea compliant way - the other way will work - but not "up to standard" N2k is a "balanced" network - so slight in-balance gives a lot of packet errors. If you was here I could plug my N2k diagnostic device in and check it - and as I said - it will work - but the "standard" way is safer.

 

[jaywoodz]

yes - that is the nmea compliant way - the other way will work - but not "up to standard" N2k is a "balanced" network - so slight in-balance gives a lot of packet errors. If you was here I could plug my N2k diagnostic device in and check it - and as I said - it will work - but the "standard" way is safer.

Interestingly enough, I have a crazy power on sequence just for my DSM 150 to show depth. It's coming in from the DSM 300 (Raymarine), into the Raymarine 120, and back out onto the network. That's the whole reasoning in me asking why my raymarine resets each time I start my port engine. Once the engines are on, then the DSM 150 depth goes away. That's the only issue I've seen so far. So maybe I have a battery problem AND a NMEA 2000 problem. What cables do I need to connect with the diagram i sent? I only need cables from the DSM 150 I believe. I have no idea which connections are what or what they are called. I'm a network engineer but Seatalk or NMEA2000 is just so proprietary.

 

[kaz911]

Interestingly enough, I have a crazy power on sequence just for my DSM 150 to show depth. It's coming in from the DSM 300 (Raymarine), into the Raymarine 120, and back out onto the network. That's the whole reasoning in me asking why my raymarine resets each time I start my port engine. Once the engines are on, then the DSM 150 depth goes away. That's the only issue I've seen so far. So maybe I have a battery problem AND a NMEA 2000 problem. What cables do I need to connect with the diagram i sent? I only need cables from the DSM 150 I believe. I have no idea which connections are what or what they are called. I'm a network engineer but Seatalk or NMEA2000 is just so proprietary.

NMEA 2000 - is not really proprietary - but a version of CAN networks called DeviceNet. NMEA just "adopted it" and added a few features so they can "protect" the standard and ask you for a lot of money to get access. But there are CAN networks everywhere. Your car have a few... and it is superb for communications in noisy environments where Ethernet is not really suitable.

In the really really old days I helped design network cards (ISA/EISA & MCA bus) and DOS drivers for them but that was in 80'ies. But in wiring sense - NMEA 2000 is most like ARC net.

But these days factories, cars, airplanes etc all uses some versions of CAN bus networks. It has in many cases replaced the old MODBUS. But each "derivative" version has it own kinks. But if your car has an OBD-II interface - that is actually just a CAN bus interface OBD-II interfaces have "PID's" - NMEA 2000 have PGN's - and lets just say they are very closely related - probably only a lawyer apart

But get started checking your batteries - then do the small N2k rewire and pick it up again once that is done. One issue at the time.

But as most of your cables now are "SeaTalkNG -> NMEA 2000" - I would consider buying another 5 way SeaTalkNG socket and use that as your "t-piece" then you have future expansion ability. Another option if you want to run your network towards "non-seatalkNG" - then get the Navico multi T-Piece (http://www.amazon.com/Navico-4-Way-Block-NMEA-Networks/dp/B00C1L0SC6)

You might also need a NMEA 2000 terminator as your current terminators are SeaTalkNG - plus a SeaTalkNG -> NMEA 2000 cable. Then dependent on what you have leftover from your current installation your should be set.

But the future IS Micro-C based NMEA 2000 and not Raymarine SeaTalkNG. Raymarine is now the ONLY supplier that have not changed to Micro-C based connectors even on their new devices like e125/e127. Garmin/Simrad/Lowrance etc. have all changed.

And when you get bored - go and read about NMEA OneNet - which will be the Ethernet for Marine use sometime in 2015.

 

[kaz911]

Interestingly enough, I have a crazy power on sequence just for my DSM 150 to show depth. It's coming in from the DSM 300 (Raymarine), into the Raymarine 120, and back out onto the network. That's the whole reasoning in me asking why my raymarine resets each time I start my port engine. Once the engines are on, then the DSM 150 depth goes away. That's the only issue I've seen so far. So maybe I have a battery problem AND a NMEA 2000 problem. What cables do I need to connect with the diagram i sent? I only need cables from the DSM 150 I believe. I have no idea which connections are what or what they are called. I'm a network engineer but Seatalk or NMEA2000 is just so proprietary.

Question: Your DSM300 is connected to a "fishfinder" transducer and your e120? Did you get your DSM300 updated/exchanged? Check it out - IF it is made in the 51st state (Mexico) - then try and get in on the free update. I don't know if it has expired. But call RM and say you have issues with your DSM300 - and all I have heard from has gotten theirs exchanged with Made In Hungary versions that cures the DSM300 issues.

 

[jaywoodz]

Question: Your DSM300 is connected to a "fishfinder" transducer and your e120? Did you get your DSM300 updated/exchanged? Check it out - IF it is made in the 51st state (Mexico) - then try and get in on the free update. I don't know if it has expired. But call RM and say you have issues with your DSM300 - and all I have heard from has gotten theirs exchanged with Made In Hungary versions that cures the DSM300 issues.

Gosh, you really seem to know every issues I'm having. Yes, the DSM 300 cuts out every now and then. I've gone 10-15 NM's with no depth.. just following charts and crossing my fingers. I was driving blind. As soon as I got back into port, it started working again.. I'm thinking it needs a good rinse underneath and the transducer cleaned off.. but now I'm thinking its the DSM 300. This is the 3rd time I've heard there was a recall for this. I'm actually on hold with Raymarine right now. What was the reasoning in the recall of the DSM 300?

sorry.. and by 'cut out', I mean.. it will be reading the depth, then just have the --- as if it's not reading.. or it may be -:-. Either way, I can't see how deep it is.

 

[jaywoodz]

NMEA 2000 - is not really proprietary - but a version of CAN networks called DeviceNet. NMEA just "adopted it" and added a few features so they can "protect" the standard and ask you for a lot of money to get access. But there are CAN networks everywhere. Your car have a few... and it is superb for communications in noisy environments where Ethernet is not really suitable.

In the really really old days I helped design network cards (ISA/EISA & MCA bus) and DOS drivers for them but that was in 80'ies. But in wiring sense - NMEA 2000 is most like ARC net.

But these days factories, cars, airplanes etc all uses some versions of CAN bus networks. It has in many cases replaced the old MODBUS. But each "derivative" version has it own kinks. But if your car has an OBD-II interface - that is actually just a CAN bus interface OBD-II interfaces have "PID's" - NMEA 2000 have PGN's - and lets just say they are very closely related - probably only a lawyer apart

But get started checking your batteries - then do the small N2k rewire and pick it up again once that is done. One issue at the time.

But as most of your cables now are "SeaTalkNG -> NMEA 2000" - I would consider buying another 5 way SeaTalkNG socket and use that as your "t-piece" then you have future expansion ability. Another option if you want to run your network towards "non-seatalkNG" - then get the Navico multi T-Piece (http://www.amazon.com/Navico-4-Way-Block-NMEA-Networks/dp/B00C1L0SC6)

You might also need a NMEA 2000 terminator as your current terminators are SeaTalkNG - plus a SeaTalkNG -> NMEA 2000 cable. Then dependent on what you have leftover from your current installation your should be set.

But the future IS Micro-C based NMEA 2000 and not Raymarine SeaTalkNG. Raymarine is now the ONLY supplier that have not changed to Micro-C based connectors even on their new devices like e125/e127. Garmin/Simrad/Lowrance etc. have all changed.

And when you get bored - go and read about NMEA OneNet - which will be the Ethernet for Marine use sometime in 2015.

That's a lot of information, I appreciate you spelling it all out for me.

Would it be possible to expand with the old network to get it going, then pick up the new multi t piece (amazon listing)? I really don't know whether I need male to female, or what. Most of this is greek to me. What I sent you in the diagram is what I want. I really just need the Maretron and Raymarine both displaying information. Or even, just the maretron for now. I really don't need the raymarine reading engine information. So essentially, I can do this, without buying more cables, and JUST hook up the DSM 150. Would I be able to do that with my existing cables?

Let's pretend that I decide to switch back to my raymarine for engine info, is there any possible way as a favor to list out exactly what I need with part numbers, brands, etc? links would do just fine.

I noticed that Raymarine is holding on to the old stuff.. I'm unsure why but I would assume because boaters are behind in spending thousands on upgrading. Plus, most people I know with boats have much older MFD's and don't even have seatalk setup. I'm looking very forward to anything other than this, so NMEA OneNet has my vote! Especially if it has ethernet.

 

[jaywoodz]

Just talked to Raymarine, the recall has expired, and I would have to pay to get my DSM 300 replaced. He said it was only for a select few that were made in Mexico. He said it's most likely the transducer

 

[kaz911]

You can always just unplug the Raymarine e120 from your multi plug - and leave the DSM150 and MercGateway in there.

But as I said before as with any debugging - eliminate the easy stuff first. Clean your transducer face, check your batteries and maybe remove the e120 from your SeaTalkNG plug. That would be a start. - when you debug many issues - first issue is to bring the list of potential issues down. The "faulty" DSM300 is ALSO very sensitive to voltage issues - so as I said. start with my little list first.

But sorry to hear Raymarine now wants money for the "update" I thought I read it would deadline at the end of march. But check it out anyway. But IF you consider upgrading to the new e series - get the e127 where the DSM300 is built in. That works very well. But then you also need a new radar

And my brain kind of just absorbs useless information which is why I know a lot of the Raymarine issues....

And if you want to buy some cables etc. - try and find a NMEA 2000 starter kit on eBay. Then you at least have a complete "independent" NMEA 2000 net - and then buy one of the Navico blocks. Then you are future proof - and have a few items in your "dock box" for future use. You can pick up starter kits for < $50 on eBay if you wait a bit.

And about NMEA OneNet - it is not meant as a replacement for NMEA 2000. It is an addition for items that need high speed data - like Sounders, Radar, cameras and Internet access. I think most of the current generation MFD's can be upgraded to OneNet as they all have Ethernet. Raymarine and Garmin has been a bit "hesitant" to follow Ethernet (IP) standards despite having RJ45's equivalents on their machines - but Navico (Simrad/Lowrance/B&G) are VERY open in the network part and can already now be setup as you want - and follows RFC's for IP traffic.

And I can for the life of me not understand why so many boat owners insists on Raymarine - when Simrad makes the VesselView 7 for Mercruiser (and the N2k gateway) - and the VesselView 7 + Simrad chartplotter are such a great match. IMHO Simrad beats Raymarine current generation by MILES in usability if you have Mercruiser engines. :grin: