Marc Rainaldo
Active Member
Sorry for late reply. Went to bed early and forgot.
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Sorry for late reply. Went to bed early and forgot.
Yes, but try the above first. Or post a pic of the back of your tach and a link or the manual of your tach in pdf.
I hooked up with 12v on ignition with a 24-12V victron reducer.That is only a PDF of the pic you took. Don't you have the actual manual of the exact tach you have?
But if this your tach? https://veethree.co.nz/product/tachometer-marine-lido/ just hook up like the original one was. Also use the extra resistor etc. looks like if you put the pulse setting to 4P you should be good to go.
back new tachometer
View attachment 102522
That is only a PDF of the pic you took. Don't you have the actual manual of the exact tach you have?
But if this your tach? https://veethree.co.nz/product/tachometer-marine-lido/ just hook up like the original one was. Also use the extra resistor etc. looks like if you put the pulse setting to 4P you should be good to go.
I hooked up with 12v on ignition with a 24-12V victron reducer.
In coming weekend I will hook up original with resistor.
I will order the zener diode and other resistors so that I can try everything.
I think pulse settings will be from 8P what i can read in the manual. Manual attached in post 21
View attachment 102523
Yes gonna do that. Hope they will take them back. I let you know the results. Thanks for your effortYour senders operate at 4 pulses per revolution, IF your sender is taken off of the blower shaft (top back of engine), if it is on the crankshaft pulley it is 8 pulses.
If the manual you posted is correct, your tach's are not set by pulses, they are set by pulley ratio, page 4 table.
If you want the tach's to be accurate, and they need to be highly accurate on 92's, I would return your tach's and get the right ones.
Your senders operate at 4 pulses per revolution, IF your sender is taken off of the blower shaft (top back of engine), if it is on the crankshaft pulley it is 8 pulses.
If the manual you posted is correct, your tach's are not set by pulses, they are set by pulley ratio, page 4 table.
If you want the tach's to be accurate, and they need to be highly accurate on 92's, I would return your tach's and get the right ones.
Your senders operate at 4 pulses per revolution, IF your sender is taken off of the blower shaft (top back of engine), if it is on the crankshaft pulley it is 8 pulses.
If the manual you posted is correct, your tach's are not set by pulses, they are set by pulley ratio, page 4 table.
If you want the tach's to be accurate, and they need to be highly accurate on 92's, I would return your tach's and get the right ones.
Lol, I know but I think tomorrow the shop ain’t happy so when they order the new ones I have to be sure...
Lol, I know but I think tomorrow the shop ain’t happy so when they order the new ones I have to be sure...
I don't know what to tell you, except if you want the right tach, you need to order the right tach. I know for a fact that the Aetna Engineering works great and was the defacto standard for many years, still is for the older boats like ours.
Received answer from Veethree:I don't know what to tell you, except if you want the right tach, you need to order the right tach. I know for a fact that the Aetna Engineering works great and was the defacto standard for many years, still is for the older boats like ours.
Looking for another solution.
In my previous post you can see the tachometer that would work. Unfortunately it don’t matches the rest of the gauges.
On my port engine there is a second alternator for 12V service battery. That alternator has a W connector.. is that possible for the tachometer I have ? If so I can build an extra alternator on starboard engine and problem fixed with the tachometer I have
Since you have the tach's already and an alternator with the w output on it, it can't hurt to try it out. I think you are going to have a hard time getting that type of tach reading correctly though. That type of pickup isn't really used on Detroit's, their pulley system isn't typical as it is only there for the alternator. Hopefully that ratio is supported by the tach, but I think you will find one end of the range isn't going to match very well.
While these only partially match you gauges, they are the correct tach to have with Detroit's. Good Luck!
hello Orlando,
First of all I want to thank you for all your effort. Couple days ago my knowledge with tachometers was simple and I thought it was an easy thing to change. I couldn’t sleep last night and start reading and thinking.
You referred me to your thread about the emu-1 and when i first read it, it was a bit acabadabra. I didn’t knew what a emu-1 was. I found out that the Emu-1 is a converter from signals to NMEA2000. Then it all make sense. Definitely will the emu-1 be on my list.
For now I have to deal with my tachometer I just bought.
The design is very important for me because I spent two weeks making a carbon dashboard. It was the first time ever I worked with carbon. I did a lot of testing and finally I have a own made carbon dash.
The gauges you recommend me I don’t like the design. If no other option are available I would place the old gauges back. These are a bit bigger and to place that I have to saw bigger holes in my carbon. Or buy 2 i70s and 2 emu-1 would be very nice. Unfortunately with that last option it would cost me around €2500. Pffff very nice but a lot of money.
I am waiting for the Veethree guy if the 4Pulse from the 2:1 gearing off of the blower cam will work on the gauge that has the same design with a 4P adjustment option. If he says that I would might work then I buy 1 to test, if I go to the tachoshop and change my 2 alternator meters and the 4P gauge won’t work I can’t go and change them back again for the alternator version. And ofcourse I have to check my engines is the sensor is placed at the blower.
Thanks again, learned a lot.